Saturday, 5 April 2014
Thorned Varieties Cheyenne
Thorned Varieties
Cheyenne - Large, attractive fruit that ripens
mid-June through early July. Canes are erect,
vigorous and productive, but susceptible to the
disease “rosette” (double blossom).
Shawnee - Fruits are large, attractive and
have good flavor. Fruit ripens later and over a
longer time than Cheyenne. Plants are productive,
erect and vigorous, but also are susceptible to
rosette.
Choctaw - Fruit size and flavor similar to
Cheyenne and Shawnee but ripens one week earlier
(early June). Plant vigor and growth are similar to
Shawnee, as is its susceptibility to rosette.
Thornless Varieties
Chester - Fruit quality is good with large
size, and the plants are vigorous and productive.
Fruit is less sensitive to sunburn and bleeding.
Plants have good winter hardiness and are resistant
to cane blight.
Hull - Medium- to large-fruited variety with
good flavor. Fair winter hardiness.
Navaho - Only thornless variety with erect
enough canes not to need trellising. Fruit quality
reported to be better than other thornless varieties,
but plants may not be as productive. Navaho has
shown resistance to “double blossom,” a fungus
disease common in Tennessee.
Raspberries:
Summer Red
Latham - Plants yield well, but have fair
winter hardiness and are susceptible to mosaic
virus. Fruit is medium-sized, round, firm and light
red.
Titan - An early maturing, large-fruited
variety with a high level of aphid resistance. May
require trellising. Plants are susceptible to crown
gall and root rot.
Black
Cumberland - Also known as “Blackcap.”
Canes are vigorous and productive. Fruit ripens in
mid-summer.
Bristol - Heavier producer than
Cumberland, with larger, high-quality fruit.
Jewel - Canes are vigorous and productive.
More resistant to disease and larger fruit than
Bristol.
Purple
Brandywine - Vigorous plants with some
disease resistance. Berries are large, tart and of good
quality.
Royalty - Vigorous plants with multiple
resistance to insects and the raspberry aphid which
carries the mosaic virus. Larger, sweeter fruit than
Brandywine.
Fall-bearing red
Heritage - Fruit is medium-sized, firm and
high-quality. Produces fruit late summer to first fall
frost.
Ruby - Larger fruit than Heritage and
matures two weeks earlier. May be susceptible to
root rot.
Autumn Bliss - Fruit matures earlier than
Heritage and is of higher quality. Plants are less
vigorous than Heritage with fewer root suckers
produced.
that area. This should be done in advance of
planting so any weed regrowth can be killed.
Planting Correctly
Brambles can be planted any time they are
dormant, usually from Nov. 1 to March 15. If a fall
planting is made, a mulch at the base of the plant
may reduce winter injury.
Either root cuttings or root suckers can be
planted. If root cuttings are used, plant them about
3 to 4 inches deep. If root suckers are used, make
holes large enough and deep enough to completely
spread the roots. Once planting is done, firm the soil
around the plant and water well.
Spacings used for blackberries and raspberries
are listed below:
top tips for keeping your lawn in the best condition
Mowing Tips
In their natural habitat wild grasses are grazed by animals such as sheep and cattle. In order to survive the grass plants have evolved to grow from the base. By regularly mowing the grass we mimic the effect of grazing, which stimulates the grass to grow more strongly from the base.
Here are our top tips for keeping your lawn in the best condition:
Keep the blades on your lawn mower properly adjusted and sharpened.
If the conditions are ideal for growth (warm, moist and sunny) then you may need to mow twice a week to keep it looking good.
Don’t mow the lawn too short when it is very hot.
If you are on holiday, cut the lawn before you go. Don’t be tempted to cut it very short, as this will cause it stress. Weak grass cannot compete well with invading weeds and moss and will suffer. Cut it as normal as near to your leaving date as possible.
Don’t cut the grass when it is wet, or when the soil is waterlogged.
It is safe to cut the lawn during winter months if it is still growing, but keep the blades high and avoid wet conditions.
Never cut the grass in frosty conditions.
When mowing a newly seeded lawn allow it to reach about 5cm (2inches) in height and then cut to 2.5cm (1inch).
Very short grass clippings produced from regular mowing can be left on the lawn as a mulch during summer when the weather is hot. This helps to reduce water loss. Don’t allow this to build up though, or it will create thatch.
In their natural habitat wild grasses are grazed by animals such as sheep and cattle. In order to survive the grass plants have evolved to grow from the base. By regularly mowing the grass we mimic the effect of grazing, which stimulates the grass to grow more strongly from the base.
Here are our top tips for keeping your lawn in the best condition:
Keep the blades on your lawn mower properly adjusted and sharpened.
If the conditions are ideal for growth (warm, moist and sunny) then you may need to mow twice a week to keep it looking good.
Don’t mow the lawn too short when it is very hot.
If you are on holiday, cut the lawn before you go. Don’t be tempted to cut it very short, as this will cause it stress. Weak grass cannot compete well with invading weeds and moss and will suffer. Cut it as normal as near to your leaving date as possible.
Don’t cut the grass when it is wet, or when the soil is waterlogged.
It is safe to cut the lawn during winter months if it is still growing, but keep the blades high and avoid wet conditions.
Never cut the grass in frosty conditions.
When mowing a newly seeded lawn allow it to reach about 5cm (2inches) in height and then cut to 2.5cm (1inch).
Very short grass clippings produced from regular mowing can be left on the lawn as a mulch during summer when the weather is hot. This helps to reduce water loss. Don’t allow this to build up though, or it will create thatch.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)



