Factors in Growing Plants for Shade

Organic Gardening - Tree Care

Tree Care - The Unseen Dangers That Threaten The Life Of Your Garden Trees

A List of a Few Fine Trees to Be Planted in Gardens

What Does a Tree Care Service Look Like In Action?

Tree Care Experts in Action

Backyard composting a guide to recycling

Many people practice the three
Rs of conservation. They recycle aluminum cans,
paper, and glass. They reuse paper as scratch pads and
line garbage pails with plastic grocery bags. Some re-
duce their use of energy and materials through energy
conservation and careful maintenance to make things
last.
Apply the three Rs to yard trimmings and leftover
food, and you have composting—an economical way to
reduce solid waste, reuse organic materials, and recycle
nutrients as a soil conditioner. Composting is about be-
ing good caretakers of our environment.
It’s in the bag
In order to estimate how much you threw out last week,
gather one day’s garbage from your household. Weigh
on a bathroom scale or estimate by comparing to a known
weight, like a 20-pound sack of rice. Multiply by seven,
and you have the amount of garbage produced by your
household each week.
Look at what’s in your garbage.
Any recyclable plastic or aluminum
containers or old newspapers? Take
these to be recycled. See any food
stuff – banana peels, fuzzy leftovers,
coffee grounds – or yard trimmings?
These materials are easy to compost.
When you remove the recyclables, 20
pounds of garbage is often reduced
to as little as 5 pounds.
Imitating nature
Composting is a process by which
organic materials (such as branches,
leaves, and fruits) biologically decom-
pose under controlled conditions.
More simply, compost is the result of humans imi-
tating nature’s disposal system.
When vegetation dies or falls off trees in forests and
fields, insects, worms, and bacteria eat it. They leave
behind small loose particles called humus. Humus binds
soil particles together into larger aggregates, or grains,
that allow water and air to enter the soil more easily.
Humus also contains important nutrients in forms plants
can easily use for healthy growth and reproduction.
Mixed with soil, compost improves the soil’s tilth.
That is, it makes the soil looser, or lighter, which makes
water, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and minerals more avail-
able to plants. Compost improves root penetration and
makes the soil easier to work. Compost conserves water
by helping the soil retain it better.
Because it is made from decomposed organic mate-
rial from many sources, compost contains many of the
nutrients plants require (although not always enough to
sustain intense commercial production). Compost has
even been known to reduce the inci-
dence of certain soil-borne diseases
that have devastating effects on plant
health and productivity, perhaps be-
cause the beneficial soil microbes
added in compost outcompete the
pathogenic organisms.
How it works
A balance of five essential ingredi-
ents is the key to rapid, trouble-free
composting. If you maintain a pile
with the correct balances of moisture,
air, and carbon and nitrogen contents
of the raw materials, then decompos-
ing organisms—insects, worms, bac-
teria, and fungi—will do the rest.
HG-41, continuing the CTAHR General Home Garden Series, was first published as Instant Information Series 21, October, 1996.
Backyard Composting
Recycling a Natural Product
Often, over half of home
wastes are compostable.
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
2
Water is required by all living things, including
decomposers. The compost pile should be moist, but not
too wet. A bad odor may indicate that excess moisture is
inhibiting decomposition.
Oxygen is essential to most decomposers. Oxygen
cannot circulate well if the pile is too tight, too big, or too
wet. If the pile is soaked with water, most decomposers
die and composting is taken over by a few “specialists”
that can live without air. Anaerobic decomposition—de-
tected by its swampy odor—is slow and inefficient.
Carbon is abundant in most organic materials and
is broken down by decomposers to create food-energy.
However, other nutrients are needed for carbon to be
readily eaten. Wood and paper are examples of materi-
als that are high in carbon but may be deficient in other
nutrients and thus slow to decompose.
Nitrogen is required by decomposers in relatively
large quantities. It is a major ingredient in protein, a basic
building block of life. Without sufficient nitrogen in your
compost pile to assist digestion of carbon-rich materi-
als, decomposition goes very slowly. Green leaves and
grass clippings are examples of nitrogen-rich materials.
Decomposing organisms produce heat by their ac-
tivity. This heat in turn energizes them, and the whole
process goes faster. Heat also helps kill disease organ-
isms and weed seeds. The speed of composting varies,
but at some point the center of the pile should feel hot or
very warm to the touch. More mass (a bigger heap), more
water, more air, or more nitrogen may be needed to get
the process going.
A well managed pile can produce compost in about
two or three months.
Getting started
A proper surface is important. Compost is easier to turn
when piled on concrete or another hard surface, but
worms and other beneficial organisms from the soil will
have a harder time reaching the pile. Level ground is
also a good surface.
The dimensions of the pile, as a rule of thumb, should
be at least 3 feet high by 3 ft wide by 3 ft long to maintain
sufficient heat in its interior. If the pile is too large, air
has trouble getting to the center. Maximum recommended
size is 5 ft high by 5 ft wide, with no limit to the length.
The appropriate location for a compost pile is a shady
area protected from wind (to prevent it from drying out).
Protect the pile from heavy rain by covering it with a
plastic sheet, or make it under a roof. Build it where it
can’t be flooded.
Have a protected area to store finished compost if it
isn’t going to be used immediately. Avoid mixing
undecomposed materials with finished compost.
Choose a composting method
Set-ups for a compost pile range from simple to elaborate.
Basic compost heap—Simply pile and mix the com-
post materials on the ground. Cover the pile when it rains
to prevent it from getting too wet or losing nutrients to
leaching. Turn the heap regularly (every week or two).
Building the pile over a layer of scrap plastic pipes drilled
with holes allows for air penetration from below and
reduces the need for turning.
Compost pit—Pits are ideal for composting mate-
rials consisting mostly of food scraps. Dig a hole in the
ground, add the materials, mix with soil in the hole, and
refill the hole with at least 8 inches of soil. Fallow areas
of your garden are good places for compost pits.
Holding units—Bins help to contain the compost
heap, keep it out of sight, and can make it easier to turn.
They can be made of concrete blocks, wire mesh, or
wood (although wood may lead to termite problems). If
the bin is a movable type, it can be lifted from the pile
and placed next to it when it is time for turning; just
shovel the heap back into the empty bin. Old garbage
cans can be used as holding units if they have enough
large holes to allow air to circulate and holes in the bot-
tom to allow water to drain.
Turning units—Some commercial composting
units feature rotating barrels that make mixing the pile
easier and reduce the use of shovels or forks for turning.
Another way to make turning easier is to build two or
three adjacent holding units. The first is filled with the
new pile. When the pile is turned, it is shifted into the
next bin. By the third turning, the pile is usually on its
last month of decomposition.
What to compost
Organisms that decompose organic materials to form
compost depend on a “diet” of carbon and nitrogen.
Fresh, green materials are rich in nitrogen, and so are
animal manures. Just as plants need nitrogen to grow,
decomposers need nitrogen to fuel the decomposition
process. Grass clippings are rich in nitrogen, and wood
chips are a carbon source. The key to making a compost
3
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
pile is to combine nitrogen-rich materials with carbon
sources in the right proportions, with the right amount
of moisture, and adequate aeration.
Building a compost pile
This simple recipe for making a compost pile should
produce ready-to-use compost in a few months.
1. Accumulate enough materials for a pile at least 2 x
2 x 2 ft; or even better, to make a 3-ft cube.
2. Shred or chop the materials to 1–2 inches in size to
expose more surface area for faster decomposition.
3. Start the pile with a 4–6 inch thick base of carbon-
source materials (dead leaves, wood chips, shredded
paper, etc.). Moisten. Add a 2–3 inch layer of nitrogen-
rich materials. Food scraps may make up part of this
layer. Continue to alternate and mix layers of nitrogen-
rich materials with carbon sources, adding water as
needed. The pile should be about 3–4 ft high or, if in a
bin, not more than 4–5 ft high. Close the bin or cover
the pile with a plastic sheet.
4. Inoculate a new pile, if desired, by sprinkling a small
amount of topsoil or compost between layers. Some
composters believe this speeds the process by “seed-
ing” the new pile with decomposing organisms.
5. Monitor moisture content; test by feeling a handful
of compost and squeezing it as you would a sponge. It
should feel moist without yielding more than a few drops
of liquid. If the pile is too wet, turn it to allow air in and
improve drainage. If the pile is too dry, water it and turn it.
6. Periodically check the temperature in the pile’s in-
terior. A compost thermometer is helpful, but you can
estimate the temperature by touch. It should peak be-
tween 120° and 160°F (hot to the touch). When the tem-
perature begins to drop, turn the pile and rotate materi-
als from the outer and top parts of the pile toward the
base and middle; move the more composted middle part
to the outer part of the pile. For easy turning, use a gar-
den fork to shift the compost to a second bin; the mate-
Materials OK to use
Nitrogen-rich materials
Grass clippings
Seaweed and aquatic plants (washed to remove salt)
Fruit and vegetable trimmings
Kitchen scraps like coffee grounds, egg shells, leftover
bread, rice, etc.
Fresh, leafy garden trimmings
Carbon sources
Chipped trees
Twigs, small branches from trees and shrubs (chopped)
Sawdust (from untreated wood)
Stems of fibrous grasses
Palm fronds (chopped or shredded)
Newspaper or white paper (shredded)
Undesireable materials
May contribute pests (weeds, plant diseases)
when inadequately composted
Weedy, persistent plants
Diseased plants
Human health hazard
Dog or cat feces, used kitty litter
May attract flies, rats, animals
Oils
Dairy products
Meat or bones of animals, poultry, fish
Are not biodegradable
Metals, glass
Rubber, plastics
Some examples of compost enclosures
HG-41 Backyard Composting CTAHR — Apr. 2002
4
rial at the top will now be at the bottom. In the process,
you are aerating the pile, and you can add water if the
pile seems to be dry.
7. Continue to monitor the temperature in the pile. It
should heat up again. After the temperature peaks, turn
the pile once more. You may note that white molds de-
crease over time, insect populations will change, and ben-
eficial worms become abundant as the compost matures.
8. The process is completed when the pile does not
generate any more heat. When the pile is cool and the
compost has aged for another four weeks, it should be
finished. The pile should be much smaller than its origi-
nal size, and the original materials should no longer be
recognizable. The compost should be dark, loose (crum-
bly), and without any strong or unpleasant odor.
9. Use the compost to mix into the soil or to make com-
post tea to use for watering crops, seedlings, and starts.
Spread compost on your lawn and under shrubs, flow-
ering plants, vegetables, and trees.
Helpful hints
•
Chop or shred leaves, twigs, and other materials to
speed composting. Smaller pieces of organic mate-
rial “cook” faster than larger pieces because more of
the material surface is exposed.
•
A compost pile needs the right mix of materials to
decompose quickly. When building the pile, try to
have at least one part nitrogen-rich materials for ev-
ery two to three parts carbon sources. You may need
to experiment with different materials and proportions
to develop enough heat for rapid decomposition.
•
If there is not enough nitrogen-rich material, sprinkle
small amounts of commercial nitrogen fertilizer be-
tween layers. (Note: these fertilizers are concentrated;
use sparingly.)
•
Balance moisture and aeration to develop heat; too
much of either results in a “cold,” inactive pile. The
hotter the pile, the faster the composting process. Tem-
perature of an actively composting pile normally range
from 120 to 150°F. Higher temperatures (140–160°F)
kill harmful pathogens, insects, and weed seeds. Avoid
turning the pile too often, because the heat is lost
whenever the pile is turned. Turn it immediately, how-
ever, if an odor develops; the smell should fade away.
Alternatives to composting
You can reuse organic materials in your yard in other ways.
People practice “passive” composting when they pile up
organic materials but don’t turn the pile. Without turn-
ing, the pile will be “cooler” and much slower to decom-
pose. The materials break down eventually, and com-
post can be removed from the bottom of the pile. This
method may not kill weed seeds and plant pathogens,
and the pile may attract insect and animal pests.
To fertilize your lawn, leave nitrogen-rich grass clip-
pings in place after mowing. Mow “high”—clippings
should be less than one-third of the grass blade—and
mow so as to spread the clippings evenly across the lawn.
Mulching is similar to composting but requires less
effort. Chipped or shredded organic materials such as
lawn clippings, leaves, pine needles, shrubs, and trees
can be spread on the soil surface around your plants.
Mulch controls weeds, keeps moisture in the soil, and
reduces soil erosion.
Compost Pile Troubleshooting
Symptoms Likely problems Solutions
Offensive odor Insufficient aeration Turn and “loosen” pile
Ammonia odor Too much nitrogen Add carbon-source materials
Pile doesn’t heat up Insufficient nitrogen Add nitrogen-rich materials
Pile too wet Turn, add dry carbon sources, protect from rain
Pile too dry Turn, sprinkle with water
Pile too small Add more materials
Pile attracts flies, animals Inappropriate materials Don’t use meats, oils; remove attracting materials
or rotate them to center of pile and cover pile with
carbon-source materials.

Bamboo Fact Sheet and Growing Guide

Growth rate and ultimate size
Like any other grass, the growth rate of bamboo is determined by the degree of moisture and feeding. The ultimate
height and spread can therefore be difficult to predict. If plants are planted in humus rich soil that is well drained but yet
moisture retentive, your bamboo should thrive for you. The plants listed below are available from Coblands Nurseries
and the Cash & Carry’s. Some varities such as Phyllostachys aurea, Phyllostachys nigra, Pseudosasa japonica (Bambusa
Metake) are available up to 3 metres in a 45 litre pot. Larger plants are available on request.
Bambusa glaucescens ‘Alphonse Karr’
(Bambusa multiplex ‘Alphonse Karr’)
A handsome clump forming bamboo from China.
Young stem sheaths striped pink and green, and mature
stems about 2cm in diameter, are pink at first then turn
bright yellow to orange with green stripes of varying
widths. Extremely attractive and very popular.
Can grow up to 8 metres. Hardy to -13°C.
Fargesia nitida (Sinarundinaria nitida)
Originating from the Himalayas, thus being one of
the hardiest of all bamboos. It prefers semi-shade,
especially in hot, dry summers. The stem colour is
dark green sometimes red-brown. It is clump forming
and can grow up to 4 metres. Hardy to-30°C.
(A good substitute for Fargesia murialae, which
flowered two years ago)
Indocalamus tesselatus (Sasa tesselata)
Originating from China this plant can grow in semi-shade
to full sun. An excellent ground cover plant, growing to
1 metre in height. Its noticeable feature is its large leaves,
possibly the largest leaves of all hardy cultivated bamboo.
Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys aurea
Originating from China, this plant is regularly planted in
the United Kingdom. The stems are green turning to a
dull yellow in sun, basal internodes thickening with
maturity. Ideal as a specimen, hedge or container plant.
Grows to 3-4 metres and is hardy to -20°C.
Phyllostachys aurea ‘Koi’
A very good coloured form, which in combination with
the interesting culms and upright growth, makes it a very
useful garden plant. ‘Koi’ has yellow culms and a green
stems. The plant benefits from a little shade to avoid the
green sulcus losing its intensity. Hardy to -20°C.
Phyllostachys babusoides ‘Castillonis’
‘Castillonis’ is the most popular form with its outstanding
yellow stems and green sulcus. It is a strong grower and
more successful in slightly colder regions. Hardy to -15°C.
Phyllostachys flexuosa
Originating from China, this green stem plant later turning
yellow with black speckles getting larger with age. The
upright stem has a zig-zag growth pattern, with a moderate
spreading habit. Height 2- 2.5 metres. Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys nigra Boryana
Originating from China this bamboo has speckled brown
stems that are erect in habit. Can grow up to 3 metres
with moderate spread. Hardy to -23°C.
Phyllostachys nigra
Originating from China it requires a warm and sunny site.
The green stem gradually turns black with maturity. The
stems are naturally arched, with small leaves. It tends to
be slow spreading, growing to 2-3 metres. Hardy to -18°C.
Phyllostachys pubescens
(Phyllostachys hetrocycla f. pubescens)
Originating from China, it likes a warm site. The stem is
green-grey, with soft white hair when young. It will only
spread when planted in a warm position. Only grows to
3metres in the UK. Hardy to -23°C.
Pleioblastus chino ‘Kimmei’
(Hibanobambusa tranquillans ‘Kimmei’)
All Pleioblastus species produce long, powerful rhizomes
in good sites and a single plant therefore can spread
quickly. This plant has long, broad green leaves.
Grows to 1.5 metres. Regarded to be hardy.
Pleioblastus variegatus
This dwarf species has green and white striped leaves.
It benefits from pruning to keep the height in proportion
to its spread. A good ground cover plant for semi to full
shade, ideal for lightening dark areas. Evergreen, but best
to prune out old wood after the winter.
Pseudosasa japonica (Bambusa Metake)
Originating from South Japan and Korea this bamboo can
be planted in sun or shade. The stem is green in colour,
with moderate spread. Ideal as a specimen, hedge or in a
container. Height is 3.5 metres. A mature stand is very
impressive. Hardy -23°C.
COBLANDS
COBLANDS
Pseudosas japonica ‘Akebonosuji’
This is a fine variegated plant with bright yellow
variegation. This form should be divided frequently to
maintain the variegation as older plants have more
green leaves. Grows to about 1.5 - 2 metres and is
hardy to -23°C.
Sasa palmata f. nebulosa
In Japan, Sasa is planted to stabilize embankments
because the rhizomes penetrate the soil well and bind
it together. The plant needs much water and
nourishment to sustain such strong growth. If the 30cm
leaves become tatty, the grove can be occasionally cut
back to ground level. Can grow up to 1.5 - 2 metres.
Can be invasive if planted in ideal conditions.
Hardy to -30°C.
Sasaella ramosa (Arundinaria vagans)
Originating from Japan this excellent ground cover has
15cm long leaves that are green in colour. It is a quick
spreading plant that requires room to spread. Grows to
60cm tall and very hardy -30°C.
Semiarundinaria fastuosa
This plant comes from East Asia. It has a clump forming
habit and has relatively large leaves. This species is the
most wide spread and is known as the ‘Stately Bamboo’
because of its straight and strong stems. It is particularly
suitable for hedges. Can grow up to 7 metres.
Hardy to -23°C.
Shibataea kumasasa
Originating from Japan, this low growing bamboo is
80cm in height. It requires a damp position with some
shade in the garden. It is slow to spread, with rather
unusual short, broad leaves. The leaves are attached at
the node on very short stems, giving a rosette effect.
Hardy to -23°C.

Aquatic Gardening Construction and Maintenance

Aquatic plants have been an important part of gardens since early
history when they were first used in ancient gardens of the Far East,
Egypt and India. Early herbalists extracted tannin from the roots of
water lilies to calm a variety of nervous and digestive disorders.
Many water lilies also provided some of the earliest fabric dyes
which were extracted from their roots.
Contemporary aquatic gardening has received a lot of attention by
homeowners and commercial landscapers. The development and
increased availability of various types of preformed pools, flexible
liners and other containers has helped to foster the current increased
enthusiasm in aquatic gardening. These new materials are a great
improvement over the old tedious process of building pools out of
concrete.
The style and size of a water garden can range from a simple above
ground tub garden, a small preformed pond, or to a large pond
constructed with a flexible liner.
Pond location
The first step in designing a water garden is to consider where it
will be enjoyed the most. Some good locations for a pond are near
a patio, deck or within view from a window. A pond can be either
formal or informal in shape. Informally shaped ponds are the most
popular. Some common shapes are the classic kidney bean and the
figure eight.
In addition to locating the pond for best viewing a pond should be
located where it will receive at least five or six hours of direct sun
if flowering plants are desired. As the hours of direct sunlight
decreases, so do the blooms. The hardy and tropical bog plants
will perform best in semi-shaded sites. It is generally recommended
to avoid locating the pond directly under trees because of the leaves
and other debris that will fall into the pond. Also, avoid locating
the pond in a low spot because surface runoff may wash mud, lawn
fertilizers and pesticides into the pond.
Pond Construction
A pond can be made almost any size or shape desired if a flexible
liner is used. If a rigid preformed pond is chosen the size and
shape will be limited by what is available on the market. The
depth of a pond should be at least 18 inches in the center for the
successful over-wintering of hardy aquatic plants. A shallow ledge
should be provided along the outside edge of the pond for placement
of potted marginal plants. These plants cannot tolerate growing in
deep water. Make the ledge about 10 inches below the surface and
wide enough to submerge potted plants in a stable manner.
Installing a Flexible Liner
The development of flexible pond liners has done much to make
pond design and installation easier. It has played a major role in
the growing popularity of aquatic gardens. A flexible liner is a
thin rubber-like material cut from a large roll of material. Its
flexibility allows it to conform to the contour of any size and shape
desired. When properly installed, these liners will last for many
years.
There are three types of flexible liners on the market: polyvinyl
chloride (PVC), butyl rubber and ethylene propylene diene
monomer (EPDM). PVC liners were one of the first liners to be
developed. It ranges in thickness from 20-32 mils. PVC liners are
the least expensive and will last 7 to 10 years. The most limiting
factor of its durability is exposure to the sun. PVC is only moderately
resistant to the effects of ultraviolet radiation and will eventually
crack when exposed to prolonged sunlight. Always keep the pond
filled to the top to prevent the liner from being exposed to direct
sunlight.
Butyl rubber has also been used for a long time. It is a highly
recommended synthetic rubber liner because of its resistance to
ultraviolet radiation. It has a useful life of 20 years or more. It is
30 mils thick. It is easier to work with than the stiffer PVC liners
because it is more flexible.
Educating People To Help Themselves
Local Governments - U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating
The University of Maryland is equal opportunity. The University’s policies, programs, and activities are in conformance with pertinent Federal and State laws and regulations on nondiscrimination regarding race,
color, religion, age, national origin, sex, and disability. Inquiries regarding compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, as amended: Title IX of the Educational Amendments; Section 504 of the
Rehabilitation Act of 1973; and the Americans With Disabilities Act of 1990; or related legal requirements should be directed to the Director of Personnel/Human Relations, Office of the Dean, College of
Agriculture and Natural Resources, Symons Hall, College Park, MD 20742.
2
A more recent entry into the pond market, which is very similar
to butyl rubber, is EPDM. This is also a type of synthetic rubber
that is less expensive than butyl and has the same appearance and
durability. It is the thickest liner available (45 mil). It is a dark
charcoal gray or black and quite flexible and easy to install. EPDM
was originally used in the roofing industry and was manufactured
with an antifungal mineral talc coating. Some problems of fish
toxicity have been reported with earlier EPDM. The products
marketed as fish safe EPDM do not have these mineral talcs and
are very safe to use for ponds.
Determining Liner Size
Flexible liners are cut from rolls that may be 10, to 25 feet or
more in width. To determine the size of the liner required, determine
the length and width of the proposed pond. Next determine the
maximum depth in feet and multiply this by 2. Add this amount to
both the length and width. Finally add at least one additional foot
to both the length and width for the top edge overlap.
Formula:
For additional protection use a spun underlayment material made
for this purpose. Rug padding or several layers of wet newspapers
can also serve as a cushion under the liner.
Carefully spread the liner to fit the contours the best you can to
make the liner conform to the excavation. Don’t worry too much
about the unsightliness of the folds. They will lay flat with the
weight of the water. When the pool is filled with plants, these
folds will be difficult to see. Gradually fill the pond with water as
the liner is folded into place.
Installing a Rigid Liner
Actually almost any water tight container if large enough can be a
potential water garden. Many things, such as large ceramic pots,
plastic horse trough, child’s swimming pools, half whiskey barrels,
etc., are suitable for above or below ground. New whiskey barrels
should be aged by filling with water, emptying and refilling until
the odor of alcohol is gone. There are plastic inserts that may be
used in them to avoid the toxic effect of the alcohol. To assure the
successful overwintering of hardy plants in above ground containers,
install a stock tank or pond heater.
Using a rigid liner has merit because it is tough, durable, quick
and easy to install, has a life expectancy of over fifty years (for
fiberglass) and comes already molded into various shapes. Other
types of preformed liners are made of molded semi-rigid plastic
which are less expensive but also less durable than fiberglass. As
with the flexible liners all sharp objects should be removed and
the excavation be lined with an inch of sand. After the site
preparation, place the pool so that the rim is slightly above the soil
line. Level the pool from side to side using a carpenter level.
Place soil around the pool exterior while filling the pool with
water. This will help reduce stress on the pool as it is being filled
with water. Edge the top with flat stones.
Constructing a water garden is really not a very difficult task.
When the proper site has been selected and the pond properly
installed, it will provide you with years of beauty and enjoyment.
Liner width = pond width + 2x depth + 1 ft.
Liner length = pond lenght +2x depth + 1 ft.
The extra 1 ft is to allow sufficient quantity of the liner to go
under the edging stones and behind them. Do not trim the liner
until the pond is finished and the water level is adequate. Allowing
the water level to submerge part of the rock edging helps to make
a very natural-looking edge.
Remove all sharp objects like stones and tree roots to protect the
pond liner from puncture. These lines are very tough but if a
puncture or tear should develop, it is easily repaired with a pond
liner repair kit.
INSTALLATION OF A FLEXIBLE LINER
3
Pond Maintenance Tips
Like any garden worth keeping, there is some basic maintenance
techniques to practice. In the spring remove any debris that may
have fallen into the pond during the winter. If there is an excessive
accumulation over many years, the pond will have to be drained
completely to remove this material.
Water lilies and other aquatic plants grow very rapidly and, in
time, become crowded, reducing their vigor and bloom. Every
two to three years they should be lifted from their containers and
divided in the spring as new growth begins to appear. Give them
their first fertilization at this time.
In the summer, remove dead plant debris. Water lilies, in particular,
continually have older leaves dying as new leaves emerge. Excessive
plant growth may need to be removed to make viewing the fish
possible. Continue to fertilize lilies during the summer.
Occasionally, insects specific to aquatic plants, such as the water
lily aphid and the water lily beetle, will invade the pond. Fortunately
their destruction is usually not very severe. Their are no registered
pesticides for home aquatic ponds. Simply dunk the leaves in the
water or hose off the aphids. The fish will enjoy eating them.
The water lily beetle is easily controlled by removing infested
leaves. This will break the life cycle.
In the fall cut back the frost-killed tops of the hardy plants. The
tropical plants can be discarded. Stop feeding the fish when the
water temperature drops below 55 degrees F, this usually occurs
in mid to late November. Move all plants into the deeper area of
the pond (18 inches) for freeze protection. If the pond is in a
location where tree leaves might fall into it, cover the pond with
chicken wire.
And lastly, if there are fish in the pond, install a floating stock
tank heater to keep a small portion of the pond free of ice in the
winter. This is an automatic deicer than comes on when the
temperature is a few degrees above freezing. A heater of 1500
watts is recommended for Maryland winters. One word of caution,
the fish will group around the heater and those that get pushed
against the heater element get burned. A good heater will have a
small guard panel to keep the fish from touching the heating
element. The fish will benefit from this ventilation hole which
allows oxygen to enter. However in larger ponds the heater will
freeze in place during very cold winters. If the pond should freeze
over do not try to crack or break the ice. The shock may injure the
fish.

A Fungal Disease of Shade Trees

Anthracnose is a name for a group of diseases caused
by several closely related fungi that attack many of our
finest shade trees. It occurs most commonly and severely
on sycamore, white oak, elm, dogwood, and maple.
Other host plants that are usually only slightly affected
include linden (basswood), tulip tree, hickory, birch, and
walnut. Each species of anthracnose fungus attacks only
a limited number of tree species. The fungus that causes
sycamore anthracnose, for example, infects only
sycamore and not other tree species. Other
anthracnose-causing fungi have similar life cycles, but
require slightly different moisture and temperature
conditions for infection.
Symptoms
Anthracnose fungi may cause defoliation of most maple,
oak, elm, walnut, birch, sycamore, and hickory species
and, occasionally, of ash and linden trees. Damage of this
type usually occurs after unusually cool, wet weather
during bud break. Single attacks are seldom harmful to
the tree, but yearly infections will cause reduced growth
and may predispose the tree to other stresses. Damage
may be in the form of:
• killing of buds, which stimulates the development of
many short twigs or “witches’ brooms;” these may spoil
the shape of the tree
• girdling and killing of small twigs, leaves, and branches
up to an inch in diameter
• repeated early loss of leaves, which over several
successive years weakens the tree and predisposes it
to borer attack and winter injury
• premature leaf drop, which lessens the shade and
ornamental value of the tree
Specific symptoms of anthracnose vary somewhat
depending on the tree species infected:
• On sycamore, leaves and growing tips of the twigs may
die as they emerge from the bud. This damage is often
confused with late frost injury. Sudden browning and
killing of single leaves or leaf clusters may occur as the
leaves expand. The disease continues to develop later
in the season, resulting in irregular brown to nearly
black, dead areas between or along the main leaf veins
and extending to the margin (Fig. 1). Infected leaves
fall when the
petiole is girdled
or when several
lesions enlarge
and coalesce to
form large, dead
blotches. After
defoliation from
spring infections,
the tree may
appear bare
except for tufts
of leaves at
branch tips.
Regrowth
appears by
midsummer.
Sunken cankers
form on larger
twigs during
cooler weather
in fall, winter,
and spring (Fig.
2). Twigs may die
as a result of
canker
formation.
When terminal twigs are killed, lateral twigs take over
as leaders. Thus, repeated twig dieback results in the
formation of crooked branches.
• On oak, small scattered brown spots or large light
brown blotches form along veins. The leaves look
scorched.
• On maple, purplish brown areas form along the veins
or larger, irregular, light to dark brown spots form
along or between veins (Fig.3), extending to the leaf
Fig. 2. Twig canker caused by the sycamore
anthracnose fungus.
(Photo by E. Dutky-U. Md.).
Fig. 1. Blighting of leaf tissue caused by the
sycamore anthracnose fungus.
(Photo by E. Dutky-U. Md.).
Disclaimer
Commercial products are named in this publication for informational purposes only. Virginia Cooperative Extension does
not endorse these products and does not intend discrimination against other products which also may be suitable.
margin.
• On ash, large,
irregular, light
brown spots
appear, most
often along leaf
margins (Fig. 4).
• On linden, large
brown areas with
black margins
appear, especially
along main leaf
veins. The areas
are small to
large and
circular to
elongate.
• On birch, small,
irregular,
circular, brown
spots with dark
brown margins
are apparent.
• On hickory, large, irregular, reddish brown spots
appear on the upper leaf surface and a dull brown
area is apparent on the lower leaf surface.
• On walnut, irregular, circular, dark brown to black
spots are visible on leaves.
• On dogwood, two different anthracnose diseases may
occur. Symptoms of spot anthracnose include tiny
leaf and bract spots, about the size of a pinhead, with
whitish centers and purplish borders. Symptoms of
Discula anthracnose (dogwood anthracnose)
include irregular, small to large brown blotches with
purplish borders on leaves and bracts, lower branch
dieback, and trunk cankers that culminate in death of
the tree.
Disease Cycle
Anthracnose fungi overwinter in infected leaves on the
ground. Some canker-causing anthracnose fungi, such as
the sycamore anthracnose fungus, also overwinter in
twigs on the ground or in cankered twigs that remain on
the tree. Microscopic spores of most anthracnose fungi
are produced in infected tissues during April and May.
The spores are blown and splashed to the buds and young
leaves and, with favorable moisture conditions, penetrate
and infect the swelling buds and unfolding leaves. Long
rainy periods help the fungus to spread rapidly.
Control
Disease control measures for different trees vary slightly
because the period of infection is different depending on
the fungal species involved. If fungicides are used, sprays
must be applied on a preventative basis, beginning before
infection takes place. Spraying large trees for many
anthracnose diseases may be impractical and
unnecessary, especially in dry springs. Sanitation is
important in reducing the amount of fungal inoculum
available for new infections. For large, high-value
sycamore
trees,
injection
with the
fungicide,
thiabendazole
hypophosphite
(e.g.
Arbotect
20-S), on a
3-year basis
is also an
option
(Fig 5).
For effective anthracnose control of most anthracnose
diseases:
• Rake up and remove infected leaves in the fall. Leaves
may be shredded and composted or burned.
• Prune out and burn or bury dead twigs and small
branches. Prune to thin the crown. Thinning will
improve air movement and promote faster drying of
the leaves.
• If fertilizer is needed, fertilize in the fall about a month
after the average date of the first frost or in early spring
about a month before the date of the last frost to
increase tree vigor.
• If chemical control is desired, spray with a fungicide
containing mancozeb (e.g. Manzate 200, Dithane M-45)
at budswell and twice again during leaf expansion (in
most years, this would be at 10-14 day intervals).

Entomology and Plant Pathology Adult azalea lace bug

Since its introduction from Japan in the early 1900’s,
the azalea lace bug has become a destructive pest of azaleas.
Although this bug prefers evergreen azalea varieties, it will
infest deciduous varieties. Mountain laurel can also become
infested.
The smooth, white egg of the lace bug, which measures
approximately 0.4 mm by 0.8 mm, is flask shaped with the
neck to one side. It is usually deposited in the underside
tissue of a young leaf along the mid-rib or large vein. Each
egg is inserted in the tissue with its neck slightly about the
leaf surface.
Female lace bugs lay groups of eggs on the underside of
the leaves in September and October. These eggs overwinter
and hatch during March and April. The populations build
from spring through autumn with about four generations
possible. A large population of lace bugs can be established
during July, August and September. It is quite possible to
find all stages of the lace bug together under a leaf during
this time.
The adult lace bug is 1/8 inch long and 1/16 inch wide.
It has lacy wings with brown and black markings and light
brown legs and antennae. The young nymph lace bug is
nearly colorless at hatching but soon turns black and spiny.
It sheds its outer skin six times and ranges in size from 0.4
mm to 1.8 mm before becoming an adult.
Injury to the plants is caused by nymphs and adults as
they extract sap from the under surfaces of the leaves. The
damage appears as spotted discoloration or bleaching of the
upper surfaces of the leaves. In severe infestations, the
leaves become almost white, many of them drying com-
pletely and dropping off. The undersides of the leaves are
also disfigured by the black, dry, shiny excrement and cast
skins of the insects.
SP290-E 1M 6/03(Rev) E12-4615-00-033-03
The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, age,
national origin, sex, veteran status, religion or disability and is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
The University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture,
and county governments cooperating in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Agricultural Extension Service
Charles L. Norman, Dean
In order to protect people and the environment, pesticides should be used safely. This is everyone’s responsibility, especially the user. Read and follow
label directions carefully before you buy, mix, apply, store or dispose of a pesticide. According to laws regulating pesticides, they must be used only as
directed by the label. Persons who do not obey the law will be subject to penalties.
Disclaimer Statement
Pesticides recommended in this publication were registered for the prescribed uses when printed. Pesticides registrations are continuously reviewed.
Should registration of a recommended pesticide be canceled, it would no longer be recommended by The University of Tennessee.
Use of trade or brand names in this publication is for clarity and information; it does not imply approval of the product to the exclusion of others which
may be of similar, suitable composition, nor does it guarantee or warrant the standard of the product.
Control Measures
Repeated applications of an insecticide are usually
needed to effectively control lace bugs. The first application
should be made as soon as nymphs appear in the spring,
followed by a second application seven to 10 days later.
Applications should be repeated at monthly intervals as
needed.
Thorough coverage of the undersides of the leaves
where the insects are found is essential if good control is to
be expected. Select one of the insecticides listed below and
follow the label directions. Chlorpyrifos is for use in
commercial nurseries, not for residential use.
• acephate (Orthane Turf, Tree & Ornamental Spray [75% SP], Address T/O [75% SP] );
•chlorpyrifos (Dursban 50 W [50% WSP]);
•beta-cyfluthrin (Tempo SC Ultra [1 lb/gal SC]);
•cyfluthrin (Advanced Garden Lawn & Garden Multi-Insect Killer [0.75% EC], Decathlon 20 WP [20% WP],
Tempo 20 WP [20% WP]);
•imidacloprid (Merit 75 WP [75% WP], Merit 2 [2 lb./gal.F], Merit 2.5 G [2.5%G], Marathon 60 WP [60% WP],
Marathon II [2 lb./gal.F], Advanced Garden Tree and Shrub Insect Control[1.47% concentrate]);
•cyfluthrin plus imidacloprid (Advanced Garden Rose & Flower Insect Killer [0.72% cyfluthrin, 0.72% imidacloprid]);
•disulfoton plus 16-8-8 fertilizer (Advanced Garden 2-in-1 Systemic Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron Care [1% G]);
•dimethoate (Dygon 400 [4 lb/gal EC], Dimethoate 2.67 EC [2.67 lb/gal EC]); OR
• horticultural oil (SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil [98% EC], Ultra-Fine Oil [98% EC]).
Marathon 60WP is for use only on greenhouse and
nursery ornamental plants, using soil drenches or through an
irrigation system. On stock plants and woody crops with a
production cycle of greater than one year, application may
not exceed once a year.
Merit 75 WP and Merit 2 can be used on turfgrass,
landscape ornamentals and interior plantscapes. It can be
applied to the foliage or even more effectively as a soil
injection or soil drench. When using a soil injection or soil
drench, make application 30 days prior to anticipated pest
infestation. The addition of a nitrogen containing fertilizer,
where applicable, into the solution will enhance the uptake
of the active ingredient

Bacterial Spot of Peach

Bacterial spot, known also as bacteriosis, bacte-rial shothole, or shothole, is caused by the bacterium
Xanthomonas campestris pv. pruni. Although primarily
a peach and nectarine problem, this disease also occurs
on apricots, plums and, to a lesser degree, cherries.
Losses due to bacterial spot occur from affected
fruit and from the devitalization of trees caused by
frequent defoliation. Such weakened trees are more
subject to winter injury. Losses are greatest in light,
low-fertility soils. Trees low in vigor are more suscep-
tible to bacterial spot than vigorous trees.
Symptoms
Numerous small spots form on the leaves. The
spots are angular, purple to purplish-brown or black.
Spots may merge and the centers may fall out, giving
the characteristic “shothole” appearance. Heavily
infected leaves turn yellow and drop. Severe leaf loss
early in the summer reduces fruit size and weakens the
tree. A few lesions can result in severe defoliation on
sensitive varieties; tolerant varieties may require many
more lesions for defoliation.
On fruits, tiny water-soaked, sunken spots form.
The spots enlarge and merge to cover large, irregular
areas. As the fruit grows, cracking or pitting occurs in
the lesions. The brown rot fungus can easily enter these
cracks and become established. Every effort to control
brown rot should be made when deep bacterial spots
form on fruits.
The bacterial spot organism infects only cur-
rent-season growth. On twigs, two types of cankers
form. “Summer cankers” develop on green twigs,
usually after leaf spots are evident. The lesions begin
as water-soaked, purplish spots between the nodes.
The cankers enlarge, become slightly sunken and are
circular to elliptical in shape. Cankers caused by the
peach scab fungus are similar, but scab cankers are
slightly raised.
Steve Bost, Professor
Entomology and Plant Pathology
Infections that occur late in the year on young,
succulent twigs show up as “spring cankers” the fol-
lowing spring. These cankers, which tend to appear at
buds or nodes about the time the fi rst leaves appear,
are water-soaked and slightly darkened. As the season
progresses, the epidermis over the lesion ruptures,
releasing the bacteria.
Disease Cycle
The bacterial spot organism over-winters in peach
twigs infected late in the summer. These infections are
not visible until spring, when they are referred to as
“spring cankers.”
Bacteria are released from cankers in an ooze, and
the bacteria are spread to other tissues by rain and in-
sects. The bacteria infect expanding leaves, green fruit
and current-year twigs. Penetration occurs through
stomata or lenticels when surface moisture is present.
Repeated infections will occur throughout the
growing season if environmental conditions are favor-
able. Severe disease is more apt to occur during warm
weather with frequent rains. The disease makes little
progress during summer weather that is hot and dry.
In late summer and fall, bacteria are carried to
young succulent stems. Cankers resulting from these late
infections do not appear until spring, when they produce
inoculum for early spring disease development.
Control
Bacterial spot is very diffi cult to control during
rainy seasons. No entirely satisfactory control method
is known. Homeowners are particularly limited as to
chemicals available to them for bacterial spot control.
Proper cultural practices are important in minimizing
this disease.
1. Resistance to bacterial spot should be a primary
consideration in peach varietal selection. Some
of the more resistant varieties include Bell of
Georgia, Biscoe, Harken, Loring, Madison, Ranger,
Redhaven, Redskin and Sunhaven. Very susceptible
varieties include Elberta, July Elberta, Halehaven,
Rio-Oso-Gem and Sunhigh.
2. Vigorous trees are less susceptible to the disease
than weak, neglected trees. Fertilize according to
a soil test, to maintain vigorous, but not excessive,
shoot growth.
3. Allow for good air circulation by avoiding low-lying
orchard sites and by adhering to correct pruning
practices. Prune during dry weather in the latter
part of the dormant season.
4. Chemical spray applications may provide some sup-
pression of bacterial spot. Use dodine 65 WP plus
Captan 50 WP (1/2 lb. plus 1 lb. per 100 gal. water).
Observe label precautions, as this mixture can
cause injury under certain conditions. Mycoshield
at 12 oz. per 100 gal. is probably a more effective
treatment. Mycoshield should be tank mixed with
sulphur (6 lbs. per 100 gal.) or Captan (2 lb. per 100
gal.) for broad spectrum disease control. Bacterial
spot sprays should be initiated at shuck-split and re-
peated at seven-day intervals through cover sprays.
Observe harvest restrictions.

Precautionary Statement
To protect people and the environment, pesticides should be used safely. This is everyone's responsibility, especially the user. Read and
follow label directions carefully before you buy, mix, apply, store or dispose of a pesticide. According to laws regulating pesticides, they must
be used only as directed by the label. Persons who do not obey the law will be subject to penalties.
Disclaimer Statement
Pesticides recommended in this publication were registered for the prescribed uses when printed. Pesticides registrations are continuously
reviewed. Should registration of a recommended pesticide be canceled, it would no longer be recommended by the University of Tennessee.
Use of trade or brand names in this publication is for clarity and information; it does not imply approval of the product to the exclusion
of others that may be of similar, suitable composition, nor does it guarantee or warrant the standard of the product.

Bacterial Leaf Scorch in Landscape Trees

Bacterial leaf scorch is a chronic disease caused by
a bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa, that grows in the xylem of
the tree and physically clogs these water-conducting ves-
sels. As the bacterium multiplies, water transport becomes
more limited. The tree suffers water stress, especially in
mid to late summer, resulting in leaf scorch; a browning
or discoloration of the margins of the leaves with interior
portions of the leaves near the veins remaining green. The
bacterium is spread by leafhoppers, spittlebugs and other
xylem-feeding insects.
Hosts and Symptoms
Bacterial leaf scorch has a wide host range including
many herbaceous and woody species (goldenrod, alfalfa,
clover, blackberries). Tree species most affected are elm,
sweetgum, sycamore, dogwood, mulberry, red maple, sugar
maple and particularly, many species in the red oak fam-
ily – pin, northern red and scarlet oaks. Symptoms usually
appear on one branch and progressively spread throughout
the crown in subsequent years. On large trees, it may take
five to 10 years for the disease to progress through the entire
crown. Infested branches generally releaf for several years
following the onset of scorch disease symptoms. Leaves will
appear normal in the spring, but later show scorch symp-
toms. Growth is reduced and tree crowns become progres-
sively sparse as the tree declines. Eventually, infected trees
will succumb from the disease.
Diagnosis
Symptoms of bacterial leaf scorch are often mis-
taken for those produced by vascular wilt diseases such as
oak wilt and Dutch elm disease. The difference is that the
scorch and decline occurs progressively over several years
rather than occurring over a period of two or three months
with the wilt diseases. Sometimes bacterial leaf scorch is
difficult to diagnose on symptoms alone, since the symp-
toms are similar to other related tree responses to drought,
salt damage or root injury. Early fall coloration of leaves
often coincides with leaf scorch. Therefore, a plant tissue
analysis lab must perform a positive diagnosis to determine
if the bacterium is present.
Integrated Management
Unfortunately, no cure
or treatment for infected trees
or a strategy for preventing
infection is presently avail-
able. Leafhoppers and other
insects that spread the dis-
ease are active for most of
the growing season. This
makes disease prevention by
controlling the insect vector
with insecticide treatments
impractical.
The life of infected
trees can be prolonged with
judicious management. Trunk
injections with antibiotics
Bacterial leaf scorch on northern red oak. leaf scorch on a sycamore leaf. Note the live tissue near the veins of the leaf
and the dead tissue at the leaf margins.
have been shown to suppress the symptoms. Treatments must
be made annually in late May or early June. Antibiotics only
cause a remission of the symptoms, not a cure. Injections
must be applied each year. The continual wounding made by
these injections raises concerns whether the wounds provide
an entrance to secondary disease organisms.
Pruning is another possible treatment if the disease
is detected early. Pruning of infected branches can delay
the spread of the disease within the crown. Mulching and
watering during drought periods may reduce moisture stress
and possibly delay scorch development. The effects of fer-
tilization are unclear with this disease. Fertilization treat-
ments are recommended when a soil or leaf analysis shows
a nutrient deficiency.
Summary
Since there is no effective treatment or cure for bac-
terial leaf scorch, one should expect diseased trees to be
gradually lost over the years. The eventual best remedy for
bacterial leaf scorch is tree replacement once the tree no lon-
ger adds to the landscape. However, the life of the tree can
be prolonged somewhat with judicious management since
tree death is not immediate. Thus, tree replacement can be
done before the infected tree dies, allowing tree establish-
ment before infected trees are removed.

Bacterial Wetwood Disease of Trees

Wetwood is a water-soaked condition of wood in the
trunk and branches of trees. This condition has been attrib-
uted to bacterial infection in the inner sapwood and outer
heartwood area of the tree. Infection is normally associated
with wounding or environmental stress on the tree. The
bacteria, Enterobactor cloacae, has been implicated as the
cause of wetwood in elm, but numerous other bacteria have
been associated with this condition in other trees such as
cottonwood, willow, ash, maple, birch, hickory, beech, oak,
sycamore, cherry and yellow-poplar. Bacteria alter wood
cell walls, causing moisture content of the wood to increase.
Infected wood may also have a high (basic) pH and a high
concentration of microelements.
The most common evidence of wetwood is bleeding
or “fluxing” of sap from the trunk or larger limbs of a tree.
Often this fluxing is associated with a wound, but has also
been observed where no obvious wound existed. Bacteria
associated with wetwood are common in soil and water
Stain associated with bacterial wetwood disease on the trunk
of pin oak.
Closeup of damage to bole (pruning scar) where fl ux of sap
is exuding. Notice the bird peck hole where birds are either
hunting for insects attracted by the fl ow of sap or actually
feeding on the sap. The flux of sap may be the result of insects boring, animal rubbing
or mechanical injuries to the tree, such as frost cracks or
pruning. During extended drought periods, the condition
has been noticed at the base of larger, older trees, espe-
cially oaks.
Bacterial fermentation of the sap during warm
weather produces gases (often methane), causing pressure
in the affected wood. The pressure forces the sap out of the
tree by the path of least resistance. This is why the fluxing
is usually found near wounds and openings in the bark.
The exuding sap will run down the side of the tree, soak-
ing a large area of bark. Once exposed to the air, the sap
will become contaminated with other bacteria, yeasts and
fungi, resulting in a foul-smelling, slimy, foamy substance.
Fluxing of the sap is sometimes referred to as slime flux.
The flux associated with wetwood should not be confused
with the normal bleeding that may occur after pruning.
If slime flux runs down the tree for extended periods,
it may cause the bark to decay and eventually may damage
the cambium. The cambium is the regenerative layer of tis-
sue between the bark and the wood that is responsible for the
tree’s diameter growth. The cambium produces new wood
and bark each year and is directly related to tree vigor.
Fluxing of sap may also cause toxicity in the sap that
is carried to the branches, thus resulting in wilting and
defoliation of the leaves. Plants adjacent to the tree trunk
may also be killed or damaged by toxic sap exuded from
wetwood wounds. Wetwood alone rarely causes tree death,
but may lead to secondary pathogens that combine for con-
tinued tree decline and eventual death.
Wood-infesting and other insects are attracted to the
flux exudates. These insects may lay eggs and reproduce in
the fluxing material. Wood-infesting insects are likely to
invade the tree after being attracted to the slimy exudate.
There is no control for wetwood disease. Preventing
damage and stress to tree roots and stem is probably the best
way to avoid a wetwood problem. Drought conditions tend
to increase wetwood problems, so it is important that the
tree receives adequate water during the growing season.
Treatments for trees already infected with wetwood
are generally only cosmetic and of no remedial value. Trees
affected with wetwood will compartmentalize around the
wetwood-affected area, and limit its spread to other parts
of the tree. This is nature’s way of protecting trees from
infections.
A previously recommended practice of installing
drain tubes in the wetwood-affected area to relieve sap
pressure and remove lateral liquids has been challenged by
researchers in recent years. Research has found that the ben-
efits of tube installation are offset by the injury the instal-
lation causes. In fact, the spread of the infection to other
tree parts may be increased by using drain tubes. Also, the
removal of the internal liquids can create conditions favor-
able for invasion by wood-decay fungi.
For these same reasons, research has shown it is better
not to scrape the wound and clean out the infected wetwood
areas. Wetwood will cause only a small amount of injury
for most healthy trees if they are allowed to compartmen-
talize the diseased area. It is far better for the tree to have
a small section infected by wetwood than to be invaded by
wood-decay fungi that could cause far more damage and
structurally weaken the tree.
Use preventative measures to avoid wetwood disease.
Follow good pruning techniques that result in minimum
injury to the tree. Prune only as required for shaping the
tree and removing the dead wood. Never cut behind the
bark ridge when pruning a branch; i.e., do not make flush
cuts. Protect trees, especially the roots, during construction
projects. Fertilize and water as needed to avoid nutritional or
moisture stress. Trees usually do not require watering unless
prolonged drought occurs. Trees growing in lawns do not
need additional fertilizer if the lawn grass is fertilized.
For trees with wetwood disease, wash the slime flux
from the surface and apply insecticidal spray to protect the
tree from insect infestations. Loose, dead bark or limbs
should be removed. Cutting or scraping the fluxing area is
not recommended. Increased applications of nitrogen fertil-
izer have increased the growth rate and recovery of some
wetwood-affected trees.

Steps to Planning a Theme Garden

Determine what type of theme garden you
would like. In this case, we want an Asian-
American Garden.
2. Determine the location and size of your
garden. Select an area that receives at least
six hours of full sunlight every day and is
close to a water source.
3. Take a soil sample and send it to be ana-
lyzed with the help of your county Extension
agent.
4. The shape of your garden may be a 4’x4’
square area or whatever fits into your land-
scape scheme!
5. Amend the soil according to soil test
results. Using a tiller, work in a 3-inch layer
of organic matter (peat moss, manure, rotted
compost, etc.) to improve the soil structure.
6. Select plants from list of recommended
varieties.
7. Plant warm-season vegetables, such
as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and most
herbs, after April 25
th
to avoid frost or freeze
damage.
8. Water, weed, fertilize and
harvest on a weekly basis
throughout the growing sea-
son.
9. Enjoy your abundance of
fresh vegetables and herbs.
Asian-American Theme Gardens will con-
tain stir-fry type plants introduced to the
United States by Asian immigrants.
Asian cultures relate to nature by capturing
its heart and spirit and incorporating that es-
sence into daily life. Asian peoples have long
been masters in the art of gardening in small
courtyards.
When using fresh greens to make salad mixes,
use leaves with mild flavors such as lettuce or
endive to make up the bulk of the salad. Sharp
or pungent leaves such as basil, coriander,
parsley, mizspoona and mustards should be
used in smaller amounts as an accent.
Recommended Plants
Red Mustard: Mix young leaves in with other
salad greens or sprinkle flowers on sand-
wiches.
Mizspoona: Adds a spicy bite to salads or
stir-fry dishes.
W037
The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, age, sex,
disability, religion or veteran status and is an Equal Opportunity Employer.
COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS.
The University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, U.S. Department of Agriculture,
and county governments cooperating in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914.
Agricultural Extension Service, Charles L. Norman, Dean
Pac Choi: A traditional stir-fry. Separate leaf
from stem and chop both into 2-inch wide
diagonal chunks. Also good raw in salads.
Snap Peas: Plant early in spring when tem-
peratures are cool. Harvest daily.
‘Thai’ Basil: This herb with its warm spicy
flavor is a native of Africa and Asia held in
divine essence. Pick leaves when young for
best flavor.
Others: Asian red kale, eggplant, coriander,
radish, mizuna, early endive and many lettuce
varieties.

Trees, Shrubs, and Vines That Attract Wildlife

When designing landscapes for urban environ-
ments keep in mind the following principles:
• Use native plants whenever possible.
• Consider the ecological growing requirements of
the plant so it can be placed in a similar habitat.
• Reduce the amount of lawn area and replace with
woody plants and a variety of wildflowers.
• Use a variety of different plant groups and types
(Figure 1).
• Use a variety of plant species within each group.
• Use a variety of plants that will flower and pro-
duce fruit at various times of the year.
• Plant in clusters (Figure 2).
• Plant conifers or dense tall shrubs on the north and
northwest locations if at all possible (Figure 3).
• Follow proper planting techniques (Figure 4).
• Maintain your plants after planting.
T
Figure 1.
Plant varieties provide for diversity of feeding niches for
different bird species.
4
In addition to the species listed in this report, there
are other native trees that help protect genetic diversity
or have showy blooms or interesting foliage. Many of
these species may not be particularly attractive to wild-
life, but they definitely add interest to the urban land-
scape. These species include our state tree, the Ken-
tucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioica), as well as leath-
erwood (Dirca palustris), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea
arborescens), redbud (Cercis canadensis), bladdernut
(Staphylea trifolia), sourwood (Oxydendrum
arboreum), fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus), Ameri-
can snowbell (Styrax americana), Carolina silverbell
(Halesia carolina), witch hazel
The good arrangement on the right is preferred for backyard planting.
Figure 2.
Clustering of viburnums.
virginiana), New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus), wisteria
(Wisteria macrostachya), and yellowwood (Cladrastis lutea).
5
The most ideal situation involves planting a recently dug balled-and-burlapped
tree with a sufficiently sized root ball into noncompacted, well-drained soil with 50
percent solid material and 50 percent pore space. Before trees are purchased and
planted, it is important to assess the planting site, make design and site modifica-
tions, choose plants that match the specific site, and
use good transplanting techniques.
Note the following ideal planting techniques:
• The surface soils are better aerated when the
surface diameter is increased and the sides of
planting holes are tapered.
• The tree is placed at the depth grown in the
nursery, and no deeper! Look for the root collar,
and remove soil if necessary.
• A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch replaces
turf around the tree base, ideally to the drip line
of the tree. Grass roots compete significantly
with tree roots and impair tree growth. An 8-foot
circle of mulch quadruples root development of
newly planted trees.
• There is no “pimple” of excess mulch; 4 to 6
inches of mulch is never good; it rots the bark of
the tree trunk.
• There is no excessive saucering.
• If mulch is not used and turf is grown up to the base of the tree, the trunk should
be protected from a lawn mower, string trimmer, or tractor with perforated pipe
at the tree’s base. Check annually, and remove when the tree outgrows it.
• No stakes are used. Stakes are unnecessary in 99.9 percent of plantings.
• There is no tree wrap because tree wrap encourages fungi/bacteria to grow in the
dark, humid environment under it.
• A 4-inch perforated pipe can be installed and connected to a drainage area only
if the clay is extremely heavy or the soil waterlogged.
Once the trees are established they will need to be pruned. For information on
pruning, ask your Cooperative Extension Agent for publication HO-45, Pruning
Landscape Trees. For more information on growing nut trees, ask for publication
ID-77, Nut Tree Growing in Kentucky.
Ideal Planting Techniques
In the following pages, the trees, vines, and shrubs are listed by group. Within each group, the listings are alphabetical by
scientific name. The scientific name is first, followed by the common name in parentheses.
#02#02#02#02#03#03#03#03#7B#7B#7B#7B||||
,,,,
,,,,
yyyy
yyyy
Figure 4.
6
Maple
Acer spp.
A. nigrum (black)
A. negundo (box elder)
A. pensylvanicum (striped)
A. rubrum (red)
A. saccharinum (silver, water)
A. saccharum (sugar)
Notes
Opposite leaf arrangement; dis-
tinctive winged seeds called sa-
maras; brilliant orange to red fall
foliage in sugar, black, and red
maples; grows best in full sun to
partial shade. Cultivars of red
maple suitable for Kentucky in-
clude Armstrong, Autumn Flame,
Bowhall, Columnare, Edna Davis,
Gerling, Karpick, Northwood,
October Glory, Red Skin, and Red Sunset. Cultivars of sugar maple suitable for Kentucky
include Bonfire, Caddo, Commemoration, Columnare, Green Mountain, Legacy, Steeple,
and Sweet Shadow. Silver or water maple is not recommended because it has been
overplanted in the landscape, reseeds, is weak-wooded, trashy, and self-destructs in ice and
wind storms.
Buckeyes
Aesculus spp.
A. discolor (red and yellow)
A. glabra (Ohio)
A. octandra (yellow, sweet)
A. pavia (red)
Notes
Flowers are used as a nectar source by humming-
birds. One of the first species to produce leaves
in spring. No exceptional fall color.
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
More than 30 feet tall when mature
7
Hackberry
Celtis spp.
C. laevigata (sugarberry, smooth hackberry)
C. occidentalis (common)
C. tennuifolia (dwarf)
Notes
Gray to brown warty bark; small red fruits when ripe; unattractive light
yellow fall foliage; common along fencerows, roadsides, and old fields.
Larval food for snout, question mark, mourning cloak, tawny emperor,
and hackberry butterflies. Extension horticulturalists do not recommend
planting common hackberry because it reseeds and has a witch’s broom
type of growth.
Hickories
Carya spp.
C. aquatica (water)
C. glabra (pignut)
C. illinoensis (pecan)
C. laciniosa (big shagbark, big shellbark, kingnut)
C. ovalis (sweet pignut, small-fruited)
C. ovata (shagbark, shellbark)
C. tomentosa (mockernut, white)
Notes
Shagbark, pecan, big shagbark, pale, and sweet pignut have
edible nuts; subject to disease; slow growing; nuts can be self-
fruitful in some cases, but allowing for cross pollination is
better. Varieties of shagbark hickory recommended for Ken-
tucky include Yoder #1, Bridewater, Silvas, Wurth, Grainger, Wilcox, Porter, and Wilmoth. Variet-
ies of shellbark recommended for Kentucky include Fayette, Bradley, Chetopa, Keystone, Lindauer,
Neilson, Stauffer, Stephens, and Totten. Varieties of pecans recommended for Kentucky include
Chickasaw, Fisher, Greenriver, Hodge, Kentucky, Major, Mohawk, Posey, and Shoshone. Larval
food for hickory hairstreak and banded hairstreak butterflies. Squirrels love these nuts!
Catalpa
Catalpa speciosa (northern catalpa, cigar tree)
Notes
Larval food for tiger swallowtail butterfly; flowers are
used as a nectar source by hummingbirds.
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
8
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Persimmon
Diospyros virginiana (common)
Notes
Orange fruits ripening in fall can be eaten by humans; red to
yellow fall foliage; common along the edges of woodlands,
old fields, and fencerows. The sexes are separate, and both
male and female trees must be present to obtain fruit. Deer,
turkeys, raccoons, and squirrels love these large fruits.
Ash
Fraxinus spp.
F. americana (white)
F. pennsylvanica (green)
F. quadrangulata (blue)
F. profunda (pumpkin)
Notes
Medium-sized tree; opposite leaf arrangement; winged
seeds; brilliant yellow fall foliage for green ash and red to
maroon color for white ash; grows best in full sunlight.
Cultivars of green ash suitable for Kentucky include
Bergeson, Emerald, Newport, Patmor, Summit, and Ur-
banite. Cultivars of white ash suitable for Kentucky in-
clude Autumn Purple, Autumn Applause, Champaign
County, Rosehill, and Skyline. Extension horticulturalists
do not recommend green ash because of storm damage
problems. Larval food for tiger swallowtail, hickory hair-
streak, and mourning cloak butterflies.
Beech
Fagus grandifolia (American)
Notes
Retains brown fall foliage through the winter; three-
angled nuts; shade tolerant. Squirrels love this nut. Lar-
val food for early hairstreak butterfly.
9
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Walnuts
Juglans spp.
J. cinerea (butternut, white walnut)
J. nigra (black walnut)
Notes
Butternuts are not recommended except in the moun-
tains at high elevations because they are susceptible to
bacterial canker that results in a short-lived tree, usually
fewer than 20 years; self-fruitful, although they perform
better when cross pollinated. Cultivars recommended for
Kentucky include Clermont, Emma K, Farrington,
Myers, Sparrow, and Stabler. Extension horticulturalists
do not recommend planting black walnut because it is
the last to produce leaves in the spring, first to drop leaves
in the fall, the nuts are messy, and there is juglone toxic-
ity to other plants. Larval food for banded hairstreak
butterfly. Squirrels love these nuts!
Sweet Gum
Liquidambar styraciflua
Notes
Star-shaped leaves turning red to purple in autumn; female flower forms the hard,
spiny gum balls that encase the seeds. Cultivars suitable for Kentucky include Fes-
tival and Rotundiloba.
10
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Magnolia
Magnolia spp.
M. acuminata (cucumber tree)
M. fraseri (Fraser s)
M. macrophylla (big leaf)
M. tripetala (umbrella)
Notes
Large white flowers in late spring to early summer;
cones open in late summer to release bright red seeds;
mostly understory trees. Exceptionally large showy
blooms in May.
Yellow Poplar
Liriodendron tulipifera
(tulip poplar, tulip tree)
Notes
Our state heritage tree; lyre-shaped
leaves; undistinctive yellow fall foliage;
distinctive greenish white flower
marked with orange in spring. Larval
food for tiger swallowtail and spicebush
swallowtail butterflies.
Gum
Nyssa spp.
N. aquatica (tupelo gum, water tupelo)
N. sylvatica (sour gum, black gum, black tupelo)
Notes
Deeply furrowed blocky bark; dark blue fruits usually
in clusters from midsummer persisting to early winter;
deep red and purple fall foliage is one of first to turn
color. A long taproot makes it difficult to transplant.
11
Cottonwood
Populus spp.
P. deltoides (eastern cottonwood)
P. grandidentata (big-toothed aspen)
P. heterophylla (swamp cottonwood)
Notes
Fast-growing; toothed leaves; seed capsule matures
in late spring; each seed attached to a tuft of white
hair; brilliant yellow fall foliage. Extension
horticulturalists do not recommend eastern cotton-
wood because of surface roots and cottony seeds. Lar-
val food for mourning cloak, red-spotted purple, vice-
roy, and tiger swallowtail butterflies.
Sycamore
Platanus occidentalis
Notes
Bark in pattern of browns and whites; shallow-lobed leaves; hang-
ing fruits; brown fall foliage. Large trees often become hollow
and are used as nesting sites for wildlife. Extension
horticulturalists do not recommend this species because it is a
trashy tree.
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Cherry
Prunus spp.
P. serotina (black cherry)
P. virginiana (choke cherry)
Notes
White blossoms in spring; small red fruits in late summer; yellow-orange
fall foliage; found frequently in open areas, old fields, fencerows, and pas-
tures. Among our most important wildlife food plants; fruit can be used for
wine or jelly. Extension horticulturalists do not recommend black cherry
because it reseeds, stains walks, and is considered a nuisance in landscape
beds and fencerows. Larval food for tiger swallowtail, coral hairstreak,
striped hairstreak, red-spotted purple, and spring azure butterflies. Birds
love the seeds from these plants!
12
Oak
Quercus spp.
Q. alba (white)
Q. bicolor (swamp white)
Q. falcata (southern red)
Q. imbricaria (shingle)
Q. lyrata (overcup)
Q. macrocarpa (bur)
Q. marilandica (blackjack)
Q. michauxii (swamp chestnut, basket, cow)
Q. prinus (chestnut, mountain chestnut, rock chestnut)
Q. muehlenbergii (chinquapin, yellow)
Q. nigra (water)
Q. pagoda
Q. palustris (pin)
Q. phellos (willow)
Q. rubra (northern red)
Q. shumardii (Shumard)
Q. stellata (post)
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Notes
Lobed leaves; fruit as acorns; found in wide range of habitats; wide variety of fall
foliage from red to yellow to purple; the white, willow, and pin oaks are relatively
fast-growing oaks; white oak is difficult to transplant because of a long taproot. Pin
oak is not recommended because it is over-planted, has scale problems, and has
drooping branches that must be removed every year. Larval food for Juvenal’s
duskywing, Horace’s duskywing, Edward’s hairstreak, white M hairstreak, banded
hairstreak, sleepy duskywing, and north-
ern hairstreak butterflies. The red oak
group usually is a consistent producer of
acorns. White oaks do not produce acorns
as consistently; however, wildlife prefer
white oak acorns. Excellent source of en-
ergy for squirrels, deer, turkeys, raccoons,
and numerous other wildlife species.
13
Large Hardwood (Deciduous) Trees
Locust
Robinia spp.
R. hispida var. rosea (rose-acacia, bristly)
R. pseudoacacia (black)
Notes
Bristly locust is a thorny, medium-sized shrub with purple
flowers. Larval food for the Zarucco duskywing, com-
mon sulphur, silver-spotted skipper, and dreamy
duskywing butterflies. Extension horticulturalists do not
recommend planting black locust because it produces a
great number of suckers from its roots.
Sassafras
Sassafras albidum
Notes
Leaves can be without lobes or have two or three
lobes; early summer blue-black fruits; fall foli-
age brilliant red, yellow, and orange; common in
open fields, fencerows, and wood edges; tree parts
used in tea and candy; difficult to transplant be-
cause of a long taproot; female tree bears fruit.
Larval food for the spicebush and palamedes
swallowtail butterflies.
14
Holly
Ilex opaca (American)
Notes
Not a coniferous tree; glossy green leaves with spiny
margins; white flowers followed by bright red fruits
persisting until late winter. Cultivars suitable for Ken-
tucky include Cecile, Chief Paduke, Indian Maiden, Julie
Koehler, Judy Evans, Klein #1, Lady Alice, Maryland
Dwarf, Richards, and Virginia Giant. Sexes are sepa-
rate, and both male and female trees must be planted to
obtain fruit. Larval food for Henry’s elfin butterfly. The
berries provide a late winter food source for birds when
other berries may not be available.
Evergreen Trees
Spruce
Picea spp.
P. abies (Norway)
P. glauca (Black Hills; cultivar Densata)
P. pungens (Colorado; cultivars Glauca, Hoopsii,
Thompsonii, Moerheimii, Kosteri, and Fat Albert)
Notes
Not native to Kentucky. Spruce trees can be used in the
landscape, but they do not reproduce; primarily used for
wildlife cover.
Juniper, Red Cedar
Juniperus virginiana (eastern)
Notes
Blue fleshy cones form the berries in autumn; shade tolerant;
pioneer plant found commonly in poor soil sites; cultivars suit-
able for Kentucky include Burkii, Canaerti, and Hillspire. Larval
food for the olive hairstreak butterfly. Birds relish the blue ber-
ries.
15
Pine
Pinus spp.
P. echinata (yellow, shortleaf)
P. rigida (pitch)
P. strobus (White)
P. virginiana (Virginia, scrub)
Notes
Larval food for the eastern pine
elfin butterfly.
Eastern Hemlock
Tsuga canadensis
Notes
Medium to large evergreen trees; small cones
hang from end of branchlets; mature cones re-
lease winged seeds; common in cool, moist slopes
in Eastern Kentucky; very shade tolerant; variet-
ies recommended for Kentucky include Pendula
or Weeping Hemlock and Sargentii.
Evergreen Trees
16
Alder
Alnus serrulata (common)
Notes
Large shrub; flowers are hard, brown catkins;
common along streams and damp areas; grows
best in partial shade.
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
Pawpaw
Asimina triloba
Notes
Fruits are edible by humans. Larval
food for zebra swallowtail butterfly.
Serviceberry, Juneberry, Sarvis,
Shadbush, Shadblow
Amelanchier spp.
A. aborea (downy)
A. laevis (smooth)
Notes
Small tree or large shrub; among the first woody plants
to produce dainty white flowers in the spring; purple
applelike fruits in June; gold to red-orange fall foliage;
adapted to planting along ponds, rivers, and streams; will
grow in full sun, partial shade, or full shade. The culti-
var, Autumn Sunset, of downy serviceberry is recom-
mended for Kentucky. Cultivars of smooth serviceberry
suitable for Kentucky include Prince Charles and Cumu-
lus. Probably the best summer fruit for birds; they abso-
lutely love these berries!
10 to 30 feet tall
17
Birch
Betula spp.
B. lenta (sweet)
B. lutea (yellow)
B. nigra (river)
Notes
Small- to medium-sized tree; relatively short-lived; at-
tractive, flaky bark; hard, brown catkin flowers; clear yel-
low fall foliage. Larval food for mourning cloak and gray
comma butterflies.
Hawthorn
Crataegus spp.
C. crus-galli (cockspur)
C. mollis (red haw)
C. phaenopyrum (Washington)
Notes
Species of hawthorns are numerous, complex, and dif-
ficult to separate; there are more than two dozen spe-
cies in the state; small trees or shrubs; spines along
branches; red fruit remain on tree until late winter; com-
mon on roadsides and old farmland. Larval food for
the gray hairstreak butterfly. Birds love these berries!
Dogwood
Cornus spp.
C. alternifolia (alternate leaf)
C. amomum ssp. amomum (silky)
ssp. obliqua (pale)
C. drummondii (rough leaf)
C. florida (flowering)
C. foemina (stiff)
C. racemosa (gray)
Notes
Small herbaceous plants and shrubs, as well as small
trees; large, showy white flowers in midspring; bright
red berries in fall; crimson autumn foliage; common
understory tree; slow growing; varieties of flowering
dogwood recommended for Kentucky include Chero-
kee Chief, Cherokee Princess, Cloud Nine, First Lady,
Pendula, Purple Glory, Rainbow, Rubra, Summertime,
Sweetwater, and Welchii. Larval food for the spring
azure butterfly. Birds love the berries!
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
18
Burning Bush
Euonymus spp.
E. americana (strawberry bush, hearts-a-bursting-
with-love)
E. atropurpurea (Wahoo, burning bush)
E. obovata (running strawberry bush, running
euonymus)
Notes
Tall treelike shrub; branches have two to four corky wings
making them appear square; small yellow flowers in
spring; purple-capped pods open in fall displaying three
orange-red seeds; brilliant red fall foliage; grows best in
full sunlight. Birds love the berries.
Holly
Ilex spp.
I. decidua (swamp holly, possum haw)
I. montana (mountain winterberry)
I. verticillata (winterberry)
Notes
Glossy green leaves with spiny margins; white
flowers followed by bright red fruits persisting
until late winter. Cultivars of possum haw suit-
able for Kentucky include Council Fire,
Pocahonta, and Warren’s Red; cultivars of win-
terberry suitable for Kentucky include After-
glow, Sunset, and Winterred. Larval food for
Henry’s elfin butterfly.
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
Spicebush
Lindera benzoin
Notes
Deciduous shrub; spicy aroma from crushed leaves; red berries in
late summer; clear yellow fall foliage; grows best in rich moist
soil. Larval food for spicebush and tiger swallowtail butterflies.
Birds will eat the red berries.
19
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
Crab Apple, Apple
Malus spp.
M. angustifolia
M. coronaria (wild)
M. ioensis
Notes
Large shrub or small tree; often branches bear small
spines; early spring pinkish-white flowers; yellow fall
foliage; cedar waxwings are known to prefer Red Jade
cultivar. Cultivars suitable for Kentucky that resist dis-
eases and insects include David, Harvest Gold,
Jewelberry, Red Jade, Red Jewel, and Prairiefire. In
general, crab apples are not good bird food but do pro-
vide excellent food for raccoons, opossums, squirrels,
and deer. Larval food for the gray hairstreak, spring
azure, red-spotted purple, viceroy, tiger swallowtail,
and striped hairstreak butterflies.
Mulberry
Morus rubra (red)
Notes
Heart-shaped or variably lobed leaves; red to dark purple fruits in late
spring; clear yellow fall foliage; grows best in full sun; the fruits are edible
by humans and wildlife love them; they can become invasive in some cases.
Sexes are separate, and male and female trees must be planted to obtain
fruit. This species has been known to attract the most spectacular flocking
of birds of any fruiting tree. Larval food for the mourning cloak butterfly.
American Hophornbeam
Ostrya virginiana
Notes
Small- to medium-sized tree; catkin flowers producing
small nutlet fruits in late summer. Larval food for the
mourning cloak and red-spotted purple butterflies.
20
Plums
Prunus spp.
P. americana (wild plum)
P. angustifolia (chickasaw plum)
P. munsoniana (wild goose plum)
Notes
White blossoms in spring; small red fruits in late summer; yellow-orange
fall foliage; found frequently in open areas, old fields, fencerows, and pas-
tures. Among our most important wildlife food plants; fruit can be used
for wine or jelly. Birds go wild over these berries!
Sumac
Rhus spp.
R. aromatica (fragrant)
R. copallinum (winged, shining)
R. glabra (smooth)
R. hirta (staghorn)
Notes
Large shrub or small tree; wine-red panicles of
fruit in late summer to fall; scarlet fall foliage.
Can be an invasive or aggressive plant in land-
scapes. Larval food for the red-banded hairstreak
butterfly. The berries of sumac are poisonous to
humans at any stage and are generally not eaten
by birds until late in the winter when other food
sources have perished.
Buckthorn
Rhamnus spp.
R. caroliniana (Carolina)
R. lanceolata (lance leaf)
Notes
Large shrub or small tree; lustrous, dark green foliage; clusters of
red berries in fall eventually turn black; yellow fall foliage; grows
best in full sun to part shade. Can become invasive.
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
21
Elderberry
Sambucus spp.
S. canadensis (common)
S. pubens (red-berried elder)
Notes
Large shrub or small tree; white flowers in early spring
to frost; purple-black berries on red stems; grows best
in moist soil; berries can be used in making jellies and
wine. Birds love these early fall berries.
Small Trees or Large Shrubs
Black Haw
Viburnum spp.
V. acerifolium (maple leaf)
V. dentatum var. dentatum (arrow wood)
var. lucidum
V. molle (Kentucky viburnum)
V. nudum var. nudum (possum haw)
var. cassinoides (withe rod)
V. prunifolium (black haw)
V. rafineqsquianum (arrow wood)
V. rufidulum (southern black haw)
Notes
Large shrub or small tree; dark green, glossy foliage; creamy white
flowers in late spring; clusters of dark blue fruit with white sheen
in fall; grows in full sunlight to part shade. Larval food for spring
azure butterfly. Birds absolutely relish these berries!
Chokeberry
Aronia spp.
A. arbutifolia (red)
A. melanocarpa (black)
Notes
Deciduous shrub; shiny red berries that last into the winter. Larval food for the
striped hairstreak butterfly. Berries are generally not preferred by birds, but they
will eat them in late winter when other food is not available.
22
Small and Medium Shrubs
Mountain Laurel
Kalmia latifolia
Notes
Requires acid soil and looks best when grown in
combination with Rhododendron species; leaves
are poisonous to livestock and humans. A great
nectar source for butterflies and hummingbirds.
Huckleberry
Gaylussacia spp.
G. baccata
G. brachycera (box)
Notes
Semi-evergreen shrub; flowers in late winter to early spring; small black
fruits ripen unevenly and last for two to three months; fruits are similar to
blueberries and can be eaten by humans, although they contain many seeds.
Larval food for the brown elfin and Henry’s elfin butterflies.
Filbert (American Hazelnut)
Corylus americana
Notes
Easily propagated as seedlings; there are some named varieties, but these
are generally not as hardy, and often their flowers are killed during the
winter. Nuts are relished by humans and wild mammals alike.
Buttonbush
Cephalanthus occidentalis (buttonbush)
Notes
One of top ten butterfly nectar plants.
23
Small and Medium Shrubs
Rose
Rosa spp.
R. carolina (Carolina)
R. palustris (swamp)
R. setigera (climbing)
Notes
Upright, trailing, or climbing shrubs; thorny stems; red berries eaten
by birds.
Rhododendron and Azaleas
Rhododendron spp.
R. arborescens (smooth azalea)
R. calendulaceum (flame azalea)
R. catawbiense (purple rhododendron, mountain rosebay)
R. cumberlandense (red azalea)
R. maximum (great rhododendron)
R. periclymenoides (pinxter flower, pink azalea)
R. prinophyllum (rose azalea)
Notes
Rhododendrons are evergreen; azaleas are deciduous shrubs; brilliantly
colored flowers from late spring to early summer; oblong fruits; fre-
quently understory shrubs; need acidic soil and soil amendments if
grown outside the Cumberland Plateau region. Larval food for the
striped hairstreak and gray comma butterflies. Excellent source of nec-
tar for hummingbirds and butterflies. Honey produced is generally re-
garded as poisonous to humans.
Gooseberries
Ribes spp.
R. cynosbati (prickly)
R. missouriense (Missouri)
Notes
Larval food for the gray comma but-
terfly. Berries are edible by humans.
24
Blueberry
Vaccinium spp.
V. arboreum (farkleberry)
V. pallidum (lowbush)
V. simulatum
V. corymbosum (highbush)
V. stamineum (deerberry, squawbush)
Notes
Bell-shaped, white flowers; blue-purple fruits in sum-
mer; must have an acidic soil; grows best in full sun to
partial shade. Excellent fall color. Larval food for brown
elfin, Henry’s elfin, striped hairstreak, and spring azure
butterflies.
Small and Medium Shrubs
Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries
Rubus spp.
R. allegheniensis (blackberry)
R. flagellaris (dewberry)
R. hispidus (swamp dewberry)
R. occidentalis (black raspberry)
R. odoratus (flowering raspberry)
R. pensilvanicus
Notes
Some references list as many as 90 species of Rubus in Kentucky; the
species are difficult for most people to tell apart. The species listed above
are the most common. Most of the species are thorny shrubs growing from
2 to 9 feet tall. Fruits occur in a cluster of fleshy drupelets; roots are peren-
nial; orange-red fall foliage; fruits are edible by humans except for flower-
ing raspberry. If you want some to eat, keep the birds away from this plant!
25
Vines
Trumpet Vine
Campsis radicans (trumpet creeper)
Notes
Vigorous, woody, deciduous climbing vine; orange and scarlet flow-
ers; good ornamental; can escape and become invasive. Excellent
source of nectar for hummingbirds.
Cross Vine
Bignonia capreolata
Notes
Excellent source of nectar for hummingbirds.
Bittersweet
Celastrus scandens
Notes
Commonly used for fall deco-
rations. Berries hang on into late
winter when birds will eat them.
26
Trumpet Honeysuckle
Lonicera sempervirens
Notes
Excellent nectar source for hummingbirds.
Old Man s Beard, Virgin s Bower
Clematis virginica
Notes
Butterflies and hummingbirds will use as a nec-
tar source.
Vines
Passionflower
Passiflora spp.
P. incarnata
P. lutea
Notes
Larval food for Gulf fritillary butterfly.
27
Virginia Creeper
Parthenocissus quinquefolia
Notes
Small white flowers in early summer; small grapelike ber-
ries in fall; crimson fall foliage; be careful where planted
because it can escape and become invasive. Birds love
the berries.
Vines
Greenbrier
Smilax spp.
S. bona-nox (bristly)
S. glauca (sawbrier, catbrier)
S. rotifolia (greenbrier)
S. tamnoides (hispid)
Notes
Thorny stems can be hazardous; difficult to find
at nurseries; difficult to transplant because of a
long taproot.
Grape
Vitis spp.
V. aestivalis (summer)
V. cinerea var. cinerea (graybark, sweet
winter) var. baileyana (Bailey s)
V. labrusca (fox)
V. palmata (catbird)
V. riparia (riverbank)
V. rotifolia (muscadine)
V. vulpina (frost)
Notes
Heart-shaped leaves; small flowers in long clus-
ters; purple berries; common in many habitats;
can be harmful to trees because the vine can grow
up a tree and shade the tree with its broad leaves.
Many cultivated species and varieties are avail-
able at nurseries.

GARDENWORKS Everything to Make your Garden Work!

Fall is a wonderful time to enjoy the dramatic, lush colours of nature. Our GARDENWORKS experts have
selected a few of their favourite annuals and perennials with outstanding autumn colour.
Annuals & Perennials for Fall & Winter
Anemone x hybrida Japanese Anemone
!2-5ft pink, red, white, burgundy
An outstanding, low maintenance plant for the fall
garden, it spreads to form a solid patch of delicate
poppy-like flowers held high above the branching
stems. Mulch extra well the first winter.
Fall Aster Michaelmas Daisy
!18?-5ft pink, white, mauve, blue, purple,
red
Reliable, showy plants with a wide range of flower
colours and plant heights from which to choose,
asters prefer a rich moist soil. Pinching or pruning
will encourage a more dense compact growth of
these daisy-like flowers.
Brassica oleracea Ornamental Kale & Cabbage
!18-24? purple to blue-green
This popular annual adds a gorgeous cool tone to
your fall and winter garden. Plant with winter pan-
sies for an outstanding effect. Great in the garden or
in your favourite container, they may droop on very
cold days but revitalize and look great all the way to
March.
SYMBOL KEY
Botanical name,
Common name
full sun
full sun to part shade
full shade
fall foliage colour
bloom colour
height
great cut flower
Calluna vulgaris Scotch Heather
!2?-3ft white, purple, violet, crimson, bronze,
pink green, chartreuse, russet, light-grey,
lime, apricot
The crowded, tiny dark green leaves often change to
stunning colours in the winter. They offer one-sided
spikes of bell-shaped flowers in a stimulating range
of colours with plenty of varieties from which to
choose, we have listed just a few of the later-bloom-
ing varieties and their bloom colour. ?Goldsworth
Crimson? crimson, ?Blazeaway? apricot-bronze,
?Corbett Red? violet-red, ?David Eason? red-purple,
?Darkness? dark purple,?Alba Jae? white.
Chrysanthemum Mums
!9-48? almost any colour imaginable
No other plant comes close to the variety of colour
and shapes that mums offer in the fall. Planting
them in masses or in containers, they will surely
cheer up your fall days, blooming until hard frost.
They prefer a sunny location and an average to rich,
well-drained soil.
Cortadera selloana Pampas Grass
! 8-11ft white, silver, creamy-pink
Very easy to grow on a well-drained site and prob-
ably the most popular ornamental grass, this grass
forms a dense clump of sharp-edged, grey-green
foliage and large fluffy flower heads--excellent for
arranging. Dwarf varieties are also available.
Cyclamen hederifolium Hardy Cyclamen
! 4-6? pink, white
Great for that dry shady area, the hardy cyclamen
sports large marbled leaves all winter. Following a
spring and summer dormancy, rocket-shaped flowers
precede the late fall appearance of foliage.
!
Gentiana sino-ornata Chinese Gentian
! 6-8? blue
Beginning in late summer and continuing until the
first severe frost, this noteworthy plant bears 2 inch-
long (5cm) flowers. One of the richest blues in the
garden, they are occasionally striped with white.
Helenium autumnale Sneezewort
!4-5ft. yellow, orange
Popular for its showy display of bright daisy-type
flowers, sneezewort adds brilliant fall colour to the
garden and makes a great back border plant. Pinch
plants back in June to encourage bushiness.
Miscanthus Miscanthus
! 3-8ft (plumes) reddish-pink, silver,
cream, purple, bronze, white
Large, bold grasses suited to massed plantings in a
low-maintenance garden, miscanthus may be
integrated into a perennial border. Flowering in
fan-shaped panicles, it provides a showy border in
the fall.
Phlox paniculata Garden Phlox
! 2-4ft blue, pink, purple, red, white,
orange
A rainbow of colours can be selected from this group
of plants. The luxurious panicles of bright colours are
spectacular in a perennial border. Plant in a well-
ventilated area and watch for powdery mildew.
Polygonum amplexicaule Mountain Fleece
!2-5ft. pink-red red
This fleece flower has showy poker flowers and its
leaves change to a wonderful red in the fall. A bushy,
upright plant, it is ideal for massed landscape plant-
ing, and a good choice for difficult wet sites.
Rudbeckia fulgida Brown-eyed Susan
!3-5ft rich yellow with brown centres
With a semingly endless bloom, it ranks among the
top ten perennials of all time (in our books anyway).
Easily grown in a sunny site, it looks astonishingly
well with other large perennials.
Schysostylus coccinea Schysostylus Lily
!1-3ft pink, salmon, white
Vigorous, grassy clumps of sword-shaped leaves
grow all summer, and then in the fall, a display of
large, starry flowers appear well above the foliage.
Some describe this flower as the dainty version of
the gladiola. Plant in a well-drained spot and mulch
in the winter.
Sedum spectabile Stonecrop
!18-24? pink, red
An easy plant to grow when planted in full sun, it
will even thrive in a container. This fleshy, succulent
plant produces clusters of starry flowers during
September and October, and
looks fabulous with blue fescue
and other heat loving plants.
Viola witttrockiana
Winter Pansy
!18-24? all colours
The most identifiable winter
flowering plant, pansies provide
months and months of interest
and many colours from which to
choose. These reliable annual
plants provide a lot of cheer to
the fall and winter garden.
Plants will slow down during
cold days.
Annuals & Perennials for Fall & Winter