Tuesday, 21 October 2014
Planting design Landscape architecture
Planting design Landscape architecture
PART 1: PRINCIPLES
1
Why Design?
Planting Design — an Expression of Function
Planting Design as Management of Natural Vegetation Processes
Planting Design for Aesthetic Pleasure
What is Successful Planting Design?
Plants as a Medium for Design
Plants as Living Materials
Environmental Factors
Cycles of Plant Growth and Development
Aftercare
The Landscape Designer’s View of Plants
Plants as Spatial Elements
Plants as Ornament
Plant Selection
Functional and Aesthetic Considerations in Design
Spatial Characteristics of Plants
Spatial Functions of Plants in the Human Landscape
Ground—level Planting (Carpeting Plants)
Shrubs and Herbaceous Plants Below Knee Height (Low Planting)
Knee to Eye Level Planting (Medium Height Planting)
Planting Above Eye Level (Tall Shrub/Small Tree Planting)
Tree Planting
Creating Spaces with Plants
The Experience of Space
The Use of Spaces
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Con ten ts
The Elements of Spatial Composition
Enclosure
Degree of Enclosure
Permeability of Enclosure
Dynamics
Shape
Vertical Proportion
Slope
Focus
Symmetric Focus
Asymmetric Focus
Focus on the Boundary
External Focus
Composite Landscape
Spatial Organizations
Linear Organizations
Clustered Organizations
Contained Organizations
Hierarchy of Spaces
Hierarchy According to Function
Transitions
Transitions between Abutting Spaces
Transitions between Interlocking Spaces
Transitional Spaces
Entrance Zones
Visual Properties of Plants
Subjective and Objective Responses to Plants
The Analysis of Visual Characteristics
Form
Prostrate and Carpeting Forms
Hummock, Dome and Tussock Forms
Erect or Ascending Form
Arching Form
Palm Form
Succulents and Sculptural Form
Oval Upright Form
Conical Form
Fastigiate and Columnar Forms
Tabulate and Level Spreading Form
Open Irregular Form
Trained Form
Line and Pattern
Ascending Line
Pendulous Line
Horizontal Line
Diagonal Line
The Quality of Line
Texture
Fine Texture
Coarse Texture
Medium Texture
Con ten ts vii
Colour 1 05
Hue 1 05
Value 1 06
Saturation 107
Colour Perception 107
Colour Eflects 108
Visual Energy 109
Combining Plants 109
Principles of Visual Composition 110
Five Principles of Visual Composition 1 10
Harmony and Contrast 1 10
Balance 1 13
Emphasis and Accent 1 13
Sequence 1 17
Scale 1 18
Movement and Viewing Angles 1 19
Unity and Diversity in Planting Design 121
Planting Ideas 121
Inspiration 129
Plant Assemblages 13 1
Plant Communities 131
Forest Structures 131
Two Principles 133
Designing with Canopy Layers 134
Some Typical Canopy Structures 135
Deciduous CoolTemperate Communities (Europe and North
America) 1 36
Three—layer Canopy Structures 136
Two—layer Canopy Structures 140
Single—layer Canopy Structures 142
Evergreen Temperate Communities (New Zealand) 145
Emergent Trees/ Tree Canopy/Sub—canopy/Shrub Layer/Herb Layer 145
Tree Canopy/Shrub and Sapling Layer/Herb Layer 145
Bush Canopy/ (Shrub and Sapling Layer) / (Field Layer) 145
Low Tree Canopy/Shrub and Sapling Layer/Field Layer 147
Shrubland Communities 147
Herb—dominated Communities 147
Design Interpretation 148
Horticultural Factors in Plant Associations 149
Growth Requirements 150
Relative Competitiveness 150
Mode of Spread 151
Increase by Seed 151
Vegetative Increase 15 1
Habit 1 5 3
Longevity and Life Cycles 153
Plant Knowledge 154
viii Contents
PART 2: PROCESS
9 A Method for Planting Design 1 59
Inception 1 6 0
Initial Contact l/Wth the Client 160
Brief 1 6 1
Understanding: Gathering and Organizing Information 1 62
Survey 1 6 2
The Landscape Assessment 165
Synthesis — Generating and Organizing Ideas 168
Plan ting Policies 1 6 8
Design Concept 168
Schematic Plan ting Design 1 7 0
M asterplan 17 0
Sketch Plan ting Proposals 1 7 0
Detailed Plan ting Design 1 8 0
Working Drawings 186
Specifications 19 3
Realization 19 3
Plan ting 1 9 3
Establishment 196
Management 19 7
Learning Through the Design Process 198
PART 3: PRACTICE
10 Structure Planting 201
Introduction 201
Forest and Woodland 201
Designing Forest and Woodland 203
W'hat Functions will the Forest or Woodland Perform? 203
W'hat Canopy Structure is Ultimately Required? 203
W'hat are the Soil and Climatic Conditions? 203
W'hat Forest Species Already Grow Successfully Nearby? 204
How Will the Forest or Woodland be Perpetuated? 204
Planting Mixes 205
High Forest/High Canopy Woodland 206
Approaches 206
Layer Components 208
Nurse Crops 209
Developing a Planting Mix 21 0
Constituents of the Mix 21 1
Mix Proportions 214
Spacing and Setting Out 215
Subsidiary Mixes 222
Low Forest/Low Woodland 222
Shrub Thicket 226
Woodland Scrub 229
High Scrub 229
Edges 229
Tall Edge 233
Low Edge 234
Outlying Groups 234
Contents ix
Clumps and Copses 235
Woodland and Forest Belts 236
Hedges and Hedgerows 237
Hedges 238
H edgerows 24 1
Urban and Garden Hedges 242
Perimeter Hedging 246
Avenues 247
Avenue Species 248
Setting Out and Spacing 250
Trained Trees and Vines 252
11 Ornamental Planting 254
General Planting Areas 254
Layout of PlantingAreas 255
Planting Arrangement 25 7
Canopy Layers 257
Successional Growth 260
Composition and Scale 260
Accents 26 1
Accent Groups 263
Planting Patterns 264
Ecological Ornamental Planting 266
Plant Spacing 267
Setting Out 271
Raised Planting and Container Planting 272
Walls, Pergolas, Trellis and other Vine Supports 274
Ornamental Planting in Specialized Habitats 277
12 Conclusion 279
References and Further Reading 280
Index 284
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Figures
All drawings are by ]ia—Hua Wu, Head of the Environmental Art Department,
Zhejiang Academy of Fine Arts, Hangzhou, China, except where otherwise
indicated.
2.1 Mature tree form. 13
2.2 Tree form development. 13
2 3 Stages of development of tree, shrub and groundcover
planting. 14
2.4 Stages of development of woodland planting. 15
2.5 Trees: form and space. 17
2.6a Large—scale structure planting of woodland belts creates a
framework for various land uses. 19
2.6b Small—scale structure planting of trees, shrubs and hedges
creates spaces for various people and uses. 19
2.7 This axonometric vividly illustrates how tree planting will
form the green spatial structure to a new community.
(Design and drawing, Landscape Design Associates) 22
2.8 Planting can create the floor, walls and ceiling of intimate
outdoor rooms. 23
2.9 The function complex (after Papanek, 1985). 26
3.1 Ground—level planting (carpeting plants). 29
3.2a Planting below knee height (low planting). 31
3.2b Knee to eye level planting. 32
3.3a, b Medium shrub planting. 34-5
3.4a, b Tall shrub planting. 37-8
3.5a, b, c Trees. 39-41
4.1 Degrees of enclosure. 49
4.2 Permeability of enclosure. 50
4.3 Static spaces and motive spaces. 53
4.4 Static and motive spaces may be combined. 54
4.5 Linear motive spaces. 55
4.6 Height to width ratio of static and linear spaces. 57
4.7 Slope can create an inward or an outward orientation. 59
4.8 A focus or landmark. 59
4.9 A symmetric focus. 60
4.10 An asymmetric focus. 61
4.11a The focus may be located on the boundary. 62
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Figures
4.11b
U101
[\)>—t
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
9.2
9.3
The focus may be beyond the space.
The character of any space is a product of its enclosure,
dynamics and focus.
Linear progression of spaces. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
Studley Royal, NorthYorkshire. A linear progression of
spaces formed by tree avenues and woodland clearings
along the valley of the River Skell, culminating in the ruins
of Fountains Abbey. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
Clustered spaces related by proximity.
Circulation in clustered spaces.
Neath Hill, Milton Keynes. Residential, park and garden
spaces cluster around a central open space. (Design and
drawing: Nick Robinson)
Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire. A complex of spaces
clustered around the Theatre Lawn and organized about
two major axes at right angles. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
Types of contained spatial organization.
Dartington Hall, Devon. The Tilt Yard is the focal space
contained within enveloping woodland. (Drawing:
Nick Robinson)
Contained spaces.
Garden at Newport Rhode Island by Christopher Tunnard,
1949. The lawn, enclosed by clipped hedges, is contained
within the boundary wall and tree planting. (Drawing:
Nick Robinson)
Spatial hierarchy.
Hierarchy of clustered spaces.
Hierarchy in contained organizations.
Transitions and entries.
Entrances.
Contrast and harmony.
Balances.
Emphasis can be given by prominent form, coarse texture
or careful grouping. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
Sequence.
Perception of plant groupings depends on viewing distance.
The scale of plant groupings should reflect the speed of
movement of the observer.
Three—layer canopy structures.
Edge structures.
Two—layer canopy structures.
Single—layer canopy structures.
Evergreen temperate communities. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
Shrub thicket and herbfield. (Drawing: Nick Robinson)
A survey plan showing broad categories of existing
vegetation and habitats on a site for development as a
public park. (Environmental Consultancy, University of
Sheffield)
A landform—vegetation survey showing landscape character
types. (Drawing: Priest Mansergh Graham Landscape
Architects)
Part of a tree survey drawing showing bole position, canopy
spread and other information on every individual tree
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9.4
9.5
9.6
9.7
9.8
9.9
Figures xiii
except saplings. Each tree is graded A, B, or C according
to its landscape value. (Design and drawing: Weddle Landscape
Architects) 166
Part of visual survey drawing showing major views and
describing visual character. (Design and drawing: Weddle
Landscape Architects) 167
Key elements of the landscape design concept for a new
settlement, drawn up for presentation. The drawing shows
woodland structure, fenland country park and nature
reserve, main open space structure, fields managed in
accordance with English Heritage requirements, golf course
and key views. (Design and drawing: Landscape Design
Associates) 169
Schematic planting structure for a new woodland park on
a landfill site. Likely phasing of planting areas is shown.
(Environmental Consultancy, University of Sheffield) 171
Masterplan for a new woodland park on the landfill site.
(Environmental Consultancy, University of Sheffield) 172
Masterplan for a country park showing existing woodland
and proposed structure planting which will form a strong
nature—like structure for recreation and conservation.
(Design and drawing: Landscape Design Associates) 173
Masterplan for a regional park. This shows how different
planting functions and types are fundamental to the
landscape structure of the site. (Design and drawing: Priest
Mansergh Graham Landscape Architects) 174
Sketch views of the structure planting in part of the
regional park shown in the previous figure. (Design and
drawing: Priest Mansergh Graham Landscape Architects) 175
Sketch design for a residential courtyard. Note the use of
colour to indicate arrangement of groundcover species.
(Design and drawing: Dietmar Bostfleisch, studio of
Landscape Architecture) 176
Sketch illustrations of planting proposals for an hotel
development showing the structural role of planting.
(Design and drawing: Landcare) 177
Sketch illustrations for a private garden on a steep slope.
These views given an effective impression of the character
and scale of the planting. (Design and drawing: Julia
Williams, Landscape Architect) 178
Sketch proposals for a private garden. Shadows are used
to help explain the heights of planting and spatial form.
The canopy of the large tree is drawn transparent to show
the courtyard below. (Design and drawing: Nick Robinson) 179
An example of planting composition studies. (Drawing:
Nick Robinson) 182-3
Part of a plan showing detailed planting proposals for a
business park. Species, stock sizes and planting densities
are given but not numbers and locations. (Design and
drawing: Nick Robinson) 187
Part of detailed planting proposals for an industrial site
illustrated in cross section. (Design and drawing:Weddle
Landscape Architects) 188
xiv Figures
9.20
9.21
9.22
9.23
9.24
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
Detailed planting proposals plan for a private garden
showing all species, areas to be occupied by low ground-
cover and approximate spread of medium and tall shrubs.
(Design and drawing: Kris Burrows, Landscape Designer)
Construction drawing for ornamental planting in an office
courtyard. Species are identified by key letters which would
be explained in a schedule on the drawing. Note that the
first letters of genus and species are used to aid quick
identification. (Design and drawing: Appleton Deeley
Partnership)
Part of construction drawing for ornamental planting in a
garden festival site, including marginal aquatics. The beds
shown are keyed into a location plan. Note the rectilinear
shape of drifts which assists the calculation of plant
numbers and setting out. The angular shapes will be less
noticeable on the ground and will soon disappear as plants
establish. (Design and drawing: Ian White Associates,
Landscape Architects)
Construction drawing for outfield planting using species
mixes.The schedules indicate numbers, age and stock
sizes of each species in each mix. (Design and drawing:
Richard Sneesby, Landscape Architect)
An example of a repeating unit for woodland planting. The
setting out of units would be shown on a separate plan.
(Design and drawing: Ian White Associates, Landscape
Architects)
A construction/working drawing for urban amenity planting
to a commercial development. Note the full plant names
and quantities annotated on the plan. (Design and drawing:
Ian White Associates)
Part of drawing showing ornamental planting and woodland
edge planting linked by a ‘semi—ornamental’ shrub structure
planting mix. The proposals are for a private garden. (Design
and drawing: Richard Sneesby, Landscape Architect)
Part of a drawing showing woodland planting on a power
station pulverised fuel ash reclamation site. Note the use of
tables to show plant numbers in each plantation area in an
economical way. Species are to be randomly mixed within
each mix area. (Design and drawing:Weddle Landscape
Architects)
Part of a construction drawing for plantations of transplants
and standard tree planting. These will form a strong tree
planting structure to a new technology park. Notes on the
drawing specified that transplants should be planted in
single species blocks of 9 in number (3 X 3 metres) and
blocks proportionately mixed.
Part of a construction drawing showing nature—like
woodland and scrub planting. Note the complex edge to
planting areas and the concentration of certain species in
selected areas. (Design and drawing: Robert Tregay,
Landscape Architect,Warrington and Runcorn
Development Corporation)
Part of a construction drawing for woodland belt structure
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Figures xv
planting to a business park. The table shows number of each
species in each mix area, size of groups of each species and
nursery stock size. Woodland core, woodland edge and
perimeter hedge mixes are all represented.The setting out
of mixes areas and plant spacing is shown in the cross-
sections in Figure 10.5. (Design and drawing: Nick
Robinson) 223
10.5 The use of cross—sections to show the relationship of
different mixes and plant spacings in woodland belts
around a business park. (Design and drawing: Nick
Robinson) 224
10.6 Part of a detailed planting proposal for a country park.
Various woodland, edge and scrub mixes are proposed to
suit environmental conditions and achieve structural and
habitat diversity. (Design and drawing: Martin Popplewell,
Landscape Architect) 232
10.7 Part of a drawing showing a repeating unit for hedgerow
planting on a reclamation site. Note close spacing for quick
establishment of a stock—proof barrier and standard trees
confined to one row for ease of hedge maintenance.
(Redrawn from Prof. A. E. Weddle, Landscape Architect) 242
1 1.1 Planting for a public garden showing tall shrub mix
enclosing the site on two sides, ornamental planting and
climbers on pergola. Note the concentration of planting
detail near seats and entrances. (Design and drawing: Nick
Robinson) 262
1 1.2 Part of a drawing showing ornamental shrub and tree
planting around a unit in a technology park. (Design and
drawing: Ian White Associates, Landscape Architects) 271
1 1.3 Part of a drawing showing planting for a residential
development. Note the domestic character of the planting
which includes familiar garden species such as lavender,
rose, tree mallow and hosta. (Design and drawing: Richard
Sneesby, Landscape Architect) 272
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Plates
All photos are by the author unless otherwise credited.
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Planting design makes an essential contribution to an environment
fit for living (housing court, Sheffield, UK; Birchwood Boulevard
Technology Park,Warrington, UK, and city street, Singapore).
Without planting, retaining structures of this scale would be
dominating and intrusive. The planting makes them an asset to the
local environment while emphasizing their sculptural form
(Munchen Gladbach, Germany). (Photo: Owen Manning)
Tree planting integrates and complements structures at the Paul
Piggot Memorial Corridor, Seattle, USA.
Planting helps to create an environment suitable for children’s play
by providing a comfortable microclimate, the sense of special place,
and plenty of robust trees and shrubs for climbing, swinging and
imaginative play (Warrington, UK).
No planting or seeding is needed on this sandstone cliff face in
Yorkshire, UK. Natural colonization is appropriate.
This verge beside a busy trunk road has developed into an
attractive species—rich native meadow (UK).
A roadside verge in rural Canterbury, New Zealand, hosts an
attractive range of naturalized flora, including Echium and Achillea
species.
The indigenous European dune species, marram grass (Ammophila
arenaria), is well adapted to this coastal fill site, but planting to
assist establishment is necessary (Cumbria, UK). (Photo: Weddle
Landscape Architects)
After 18 months only a few traces of intervention remain visible.
The geotextile netting is employed to reduce surface erosion
(Cumbria, UK). (Photo: Weddle Landscape Architects)
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A high degree of control over natural vegetation processes is
demonstrated in this highly manicured display of hybridized and
selected flowers at Gruga Park, Essen (Photo: Owen Manning).
This shelterbelt in north—west Scotland combines effective wind
speed reduction, habitat diversification and visual harmony with
the local landscape. It provides the microclimate needed for the
cultivation of a wide range of plants in Inverewe Gardens, Scotland.
The development of a simple tree and shrub planting association
over its first ten years: A view one season after planting shows
scattered tree and shrub stock of a similar size to when they left the
nursery (car park building, Sheffield, UK).
The same area (but viewed from another angle) three years after
planting shows a well—established thicket of shrubs and establishing
trees.
After ten years the trees and larger shrubs have attained a woodland
structure at heights of up to 10 metres and have begun to have the
impact for which they were planted - the car park building is partly
screened and enjoys a woodland setting.
The favourable microclimate provided by a south—facing wall allows
the growing of plants which would not survive in the open. Abutilon
and Ceanothus species (shown in this photograph), Fremontodendron
californica and Magnolia campbellii are among the shrubs grown
successfully in the walled gardens at Newby Hall in NorthYorkshire,
UK.
The dramatic effects of light can give unpredictable yet memorable
qualities to planting (Bodnant Garden, Wales).
The interlocking relationship of form and space within the canopy
of this pohutukawa tree in Albert Park, Auckland, New Zealand is
emphasized by the presence of the sculpture.
The space beneath the canopy of this single beech (Fagus sylvatica)
is further delineated by a circular hedge and a change of ground
level (Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire, UK).
Shrubs and occasional trees define and partly shade the deck space
in this garden in Auckland, New Zealand.
The natural growth of belts of trees and shrubs create informal
walls of vegetation enclosing the Moon Pond at Studley Royal,
Yorkshire, UK.
Trained and clipped cypress (Cupressus sp.) form a wall with windows
giving views in and out of a small urban park in Malaga, Spain.
Strips of low groundcover plants form a patterned carpet to the
space in front of this recreation centre in Sheffield, UK.
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A colourful carpet of floral bedding is kept in precise geometric
patterns by the use of dwarf hedging (Rotorua, New Zealand).
I/Wsteria is trained over supports to form a delightful ceiling of
foliage and flower above a patio in Majorca.
The naturally spreading canopies of silver maples (Acer saccharinum)
form a sheltering and screening ceiling above the car park at Leeds
University, UK.
Grass is used with care to provide an accessible ground surface in
this public space in Birmingham, UK. The orientation of the slope
helps to focus attention towards the centre of the square.
Plants such as cypress (Cupressus sp.) can be trained to form green
gateways of inviting proportions (Generalife, Granada, Spain).
Natural gateways and windows are formed by gaps in otherwise
impenetrable vegetation (Buckinghamshire, UK).
A single row of small trees forms a green Colonnade in this residential
courtyard in Cologne, Germany. (Photo: Owen Manning)
A carefully spaced and regularly pruned double row of limes (Tilia
sp.) gives overhead enclosure to form this arcade of trees in France.
(Photo: Owen Manning)
Regular street tree planting echoes the rhythms of adjacent
architecture (Milton Keynes, UK).
Analogies in both the structural and decorative aspects of trees and
built form are employed in the work of Antoni Gaudi in Parc Guel,
Barcelona.
An overgrown beech hedge (Fagus sylvatica) creates a curtain of
stems at Formakin, Scotland.
Sculptural organic form and fluid space are created by the nature-
like planting of clumps of willows (Salix) near the water’s edge in a
Dutch park. (Photo: Owen Manning)
The rich planting in this courtyard plays a mainly ornamental role,
furnishing a space that has been defined by the structures of
building and hard landscape.The tree ferns (Dicksonia squarrosa),
ti kouka (Cordyline australis) and palms modulate the space and
provide foci (Auckland, New Zealand). (Design and photo: Isthmus
Group)
Enclosing boundary tree planting creates a protected, warm,
sheltered and attractive space for informal games, walking,
sunbathing and other recreation in Golden Gate Park, San
Francisco, USA. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Clipped beech hedging gives medium height enclosure for this
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circular lawn. Trees and buildings provide taller enclosure beyond
(University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand).
Shrub and tree planting provides enclosure behind and over the
seat giving shelter and shade, creating a delightful space while
emphasizing the outlook (Singapore Botanical Gardens).
Planting forms seating enclaves along the edge of a route in
Robson Square, Vancouver.
Full visual and physical enclosure may be desirable around visually
intrusive land uses such as this car park at Broadwater Business
Park, Denham and will also provide shelter and a pleasant
environment for the people using it. The trees are London planes
(Platanus X hispanica), the tall shrubs bamboo (Arundinaria sp.)
and the low shrub edge is composed of Rubus tricolor.
Full visual and physical enclosure gives shelter and seclusion to a
public garden at Birchwood,Warrington, UK.
Partial visual and physical enclosure results when windows and
doorways remain in a wall of planting. Here they frame views
across Willen Lake, Milton Keynes, UK.
This line of trees in paving makes all the difference to the
restaurant’s environment in this new public space in Bristol, UK.
They provide spatial definition, separating the dining area from
the larger expanse of the public thoroughfare. They also give
partial physical enclosure, while retaining easy physical access.
A stopping and gathering place is most successful if its shape is of
largely similar horizontal proportions, such as found in a square or
a circle. This example is in museum precincts, Brussels, Belgium.
(Photo: Owen Manning)
A pond and clearing provides a natural stopping and gathering
place in the woodland at Risley Moss,Warrington, UK.
The shape of linear spaces express the functions of communication
and movement. This photograph shows footpaths and carriageway
firmly defined and separated by trees and shrubs (Singapore).
The course of this canal creates a linear space within dense
woodland at Green Park, Aston Clinton, Buckinghamshire, UK.
This mature avenue of plane trees (Platanus) leading to Castle
Arenberg, Belgium is a grand and dynamic element of landscape
structure.
If an avenue is long with no focus it can be daunting for the traveller,
especially if they are on foot. This avenue however, does make the
ramp down to the underpass a more attractive and less claustrophobic
space than it would be without trees (Milton Keynes, UK).
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The gate at the end of this alley at Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire,
UK, provides a focus and also anticipates what lies beyond it.
Hidcote Manor is a masterpiece of formal spatial composition and
provides endless examples of spatial form.
Curving linear spaces create curiosity and anticipation by
concealment.The gentle curve and flow of the landform are further
enticements (Ashridge, Hertfordshire, UK).
This hillside promenade is fully closed along one side but open to
views over the distant landscape along the other side. The waist-
high hedge screens foreground detail and the curving alignment
draws us on (Muncaster Castle, Cumbria).
The ratio of height to width of a linear space influences its dynamic
qualities. A ratio of 1:1 gives a strong, purposeful character
(Generalife, Granada, Spain).
A linear space with a height to width ratio greater than 1:1 can
create a sense of urgency and expectation (Generalife, Granada,
Spain).
The focus of a space can be provided by a single specimen tree of
sufficient stature. These urban spaces are in Brugge, Belgium; and
Northcote, Auckland, New Zealand, and in both cases the trees
also make an informal gathering place.
Focus beyond the boundaries of the space may be effective in both
characterizing the space itself and creating momentum (Hidcote
Manor, Gloucestershire, UK).
Woodland glades separated by groves of birch (Betula pendula) in a
Bristol, UK, park form a linear progression of spaces linked by an
internal sinuous path. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Again a sinuous path leads through a gently modulated linear
sequence of spaces. This time it is formed by landform and
vegetation. The sensitive arrangement of the path, the small scale
for ground topography and the planting allow the large scale
surrounding landscape to be included in the composition or (to
use the classic term) to be ‘borrowed’ (Santa Barbara Botanical
Gardens, California, USA).
A strongly articulated linear sequence forms a main axis at Hidcote
Manor Gardens, Gloucestershire, UK.The transitions are defined
by clipped hedges and level changes.
The impressive view from the lawn in front of the house at Stowe,
Buckinghamshire, UK, penetrates a series of three parkland spaces
enclosed by belts and clumps of trees and focuses on the Corinthian
arch on the horizon. The approach drive runs through the plantations
to the side of the main spaces and so gives parallel circulation.
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The Tiltyard at Dartington, Devon, UK, is defined by ancient
terraces reinforced by tree and hedge planting. It forms the major
gathering space around which a number of smaller garden spaces
cluster. All are set within surrounding woodland.
This park, constructed over a car park, was part of the London
CanaryWharf development in the 1980s. It forms a protected green
space within the larger spaces formed by the massive buildings and
surrounding roads.The whole composition takes the form of a two-
tiered contained organization.
Midland Park, Wellington, New Zealand is a busy greenspace in
the heart of the CBD. The simple line of small trees that surrounds
it on three sides is vital to the spatial composition.They prove
sufficient separation and definition to create a space contained
within a larger space, enclosed by the continuous wall of high rise
offices. This change in scale is vital to the relaxation and
recreational function of the park.
Blocks of trees and groundcover, although rather regimented in
arrangement, provide a sequence of smaller sitting spaces contained
within the much larger architectural expanse of Millennium Square,
Bristol, UK.
A gap in tall and medium shrub planting creates an informal but
concise transition between intensively detailed building curtilage
and the more extensive parkland beyond (Hounslow Civic Centre
and park, London).
The planting comes so close in this example of a concise transition
from Huntington Botanical Gardens, Los Angeles, that there is real
tension created between the two spaces.
A simple narrow gap in an enclosing hedge overhung with the
branch of a nearby tree provides a concise transition. The point of
entry is precisely defined and a glimpse of what is within is revealed.
This public park was once the Bundesgartenschau at Mannheim,
Germany. (Photo: Owen Manning)
An overlapping entrance ensures complete surprise on entering the
space (Bodnant, North Wales).
A gradual transition is made between two distinct spaces but
dynamic tension is created by the sinuous curve of the grass path,
by the gap which first narrows and then widens and by the
locations of the clumps of trees being offset either side of the
opening (Askham Bryan College,York, UK).
This transition is made in stages. As the observer skirts the lake at
Stowe, Buckinghamshire, UK, new views are opened and the far
paddock is revealed in carefully controlled sequence. Finally the
focus of the space, the Palladian Bridge, will come into view.
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Trees and shrubs create a small but well—defined transitional space
between the precinct in the foreground and the courtyard beyond
the arch at Leuven, Belgium. (Photo: Owen Manning)
A larger transitional space, enclosed by beech (Fagus sylvatica)
hedges and pleached lime trees (Tilia), forms the entrance zone to
a public park in Oakwood,Warrington, UK.
The spreading form of this Juniper (7uniperus sp.) provides a base
to the white trunk of these birches (Betula sp.) at the University of
Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand.
Prostrate dwarf shrubs such as this Cotoneaster adpressus hug the
ground and follow the shape of whatever they cover (Askham
Bryan College,York, UK).
The hummock and dome forms of herbaceous plants such as
Liriope muscari and shrubs such as Hebe rakaiensis and Viburnum
davidii anchor this gateway, reflect the curve of its arch and
contrast with its rectilinear outline (Bodnant, North Wales).
Many trees ultimately develop a spreading dome—like form if
allowed to grow unhindered in an open location and free from
environmental stress. This photograph shows a specimen of
Moreton Bay fig (Ficus macrophylla) with a canopy spread of
more than 40 metres. For scale, note the Norfolk Island pines
(Araucaria heterophylla) to the side of the photo (Northland,
New Zealand).
The unusually erect form of horoeka or lancewood (Pseudopanax
crassifolius) allows it to be planted so close to this hotel unit that it
grows through the balcony rail (Christchurch, New Zealand).
The Australian perennial giant Doryanthes palmeri has such large
linear, striking leaves that it can dominate any plant grouping.
Palm form is seen not only in members of the Palmae, but also in
plants such as this toi or mountain cabbage tree (Cordyline indivisa),
seen here in its natural habitat of mountain forests at Te Urewera,
New Zealand.
Some succulents display strongly sculptural form, such as these at
San Miguel Mission, California.
Lophostemon confertus, the Brisbane box, is an example of a tree
with an oval upright form. Its restricted spread makes it convenient
for planting next to roads, especially those that carry high vehicles
(Mayoral Drive, Auckland, New Zealand).
The distinctive conic form of Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria
heterophylla) provides a strong contrast to the horizontal masses of
the building and the gentle sweep of the ground at Auckland airport,
New Zealand.
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Trees like Lombardy poplar have a narrowly fastigiate or columnar
form. They were used in the Pacific Gateway Project in San
Francisco because this form can be accommodated in the narrow
spaces between freeway ramps. 95
The ascending flower raceme of mullein (Verbascum) has, on a
smaller scale, a similar effect to a fastigiate or columnar tree
canopy (Hagen, Germany). (Photo: Owen Manning) 95
Tabulate form is seen in the spreading branches of trees such as
this young deodar (Cedrus deodara) and Japanese maple (Acer
palmatum) which give a serene quality to this composition in
Sheffield Botanical Gardens, UK. 96
Trained and clipped form can be treated as sculpture in the
landscape.Yew are being clipped to form green waves in this
sunken ‘dry dock’ garden at Thames Barrier Park in London. 97
The topiary at Levens Hall, Cumbria, UK, creates an intriguing
interplay of form and space. 97
This planting composition depends for much of its impact on the
form of the trees and shrubs.The tabulate branches of Viburnum
plicatum ‘Lanarth’ are emphasized by brilliant white flower heads
and give a striking contrast to the dark fastigiate yew (Taxus baccata
‘Fastigiata’) and the ascending branches of Nothofagus dombeyi in the
background.These strongly expressed forms are set within a softly
flowing mass of informal foliage that saves the composition from
stiffness (Bodnant, Wales). 98
Line can be a dominant element in planting composition especially
when we can see the branch and stem outlines or the silhouettes of
plants. This avenue of plane trees near Napier, New Zealand,
demonstrates the impact of line and outline in composition. Note
that it is through line that we recognize perspective, and that this
perspective gives avenues their dramatic quality. 98
The ascending outlines of these fastigiate junipers (7uniperus ‘Sky
Rocket’) punctuate and regulate the soft billowing masses of roses
and herbs below (The garden of old roses, Castle Howard,
Yorkshire, UK). 99
Vertical line is also common in the ascending linear leaves of
monocotyledons such as Iris and rushes (7uncus), here contrasting
with the horizontal slab of the stone bridge at Wisley, Surrey, UK. 99
Pendulous line is found in the hanging branches of weeping willow
(Salix ‘Chrysocoma’) over the River Avon, Christchurch, New
Zealand. 99
The tabulate branching cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani) produces
a strong horizontal component and reflects the lines of the
brickwork pattern and building eaves (Reigate, Surrey, UK). 100
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Dynamic diagonals are strongly expressed in the linear leaves of
New Zealand flax (Phormium tenax), seen here in its natural
wetland habitat on a South Island lake margin. It contrasts
dramatically with the pendulous line of the rimu foliage behind.
Much of the line found in nature is lively and more or less irregular
in character. The stems and branches in this picture express both
inherent patterns of growth and the influence of an exposed
environment (coastal forest at Kohi Point, New Zealand).The simple
vertical line of the mamaku tree fern provides a contrast.
Line can be crucial to composition: the crossing of horizontal and
vertical lines is one of the most dominant aspects of this view
(Bodnant, Wales).
The fine, even texture of the Libertia peregrinans (miikoikoi) is
notable in this simple planting, and reflects the fine textured
surface finish of the concrete wall (University of Canterbury, New
Zealand).
Grasses and ti kouka (cabbage tree) both have a fine visual texture
that add to the feeling of spaciousness in this New Zealand
courtyard. (Design and photo by Isthmus Group)
The bold foliage of Acanthus draws attention to the steps and
balustrade and harmonizes with the similar, coarse texture of the
stone work.
This plant grouping at Newby Hall, North Yorkshire, UK,
combines a wide range of textures and forms. Strong leaf form,
dynamic line and textural contrasts create an eye—catching effect.
The elegant sculptural form and bold texture of Agave attenuata
stand out in this planting of succulents. Also important are the
consistency of line and the accenting of the vertical flower spikes
of aloe in the foreground (The Sunken Garden, Napier, New
Zealand).
The red borders at Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire, UK, show the
powerful qualities of the colours red and orange.These colours are
unusual in cool temperate climates. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Compare the effect of the cool blues and greens in this planting,
also at Hidcote Manor, with the hot colours of the red borders.
Pink at a business and industry park, San Luis Obispo, California.
Visual harmony can be found among natural forms as diverse as
trees and clouds (Avon, UK).
Harmony of leaf form and colour supports the strong contrast in
texture between Bergenia and Saxifraga (Hidcote Manor,
Gloucestershire, UK).
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The close relationship of colours and textures shown by the ferns
in this forest at Te Urewera, New Zealand, emphasize the
contrasting form of the large—leaved tree ferns.
The visual qualities of plants can be delightful when related by
harmony and contrast to hard landscape materials. In this example
the rectilinear geometry of the hedge and brick edgings contrast
with organic forms of the plants while the texture and visual
‘softness’ of the pebble groundcover provides a link between ‘hard’
and ‘soft’ materials (Hounslow Civic Centre, London).
On the Victorian Italianate terrace at Tatton Park, Cheshire, UK,
the strictly symmetrical layout of grass and floral bedding denotes
absolute control of form and articulates the central axis of
symmetry. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Symmetry is observed in the ground modelling and the repetition
of trees and shrubs either side of the path. By emphasizing the axis
of symmetry generated by the building the planting helps focus on
the entrance to these apartments at Kingston Dock, Glasgow.
The drama of a single Agave brings a point of emphasis to the
remarkable stonework of viaduct and steps at Parc Guel,
Barcelona, Spain.
The steady rhythm of the yew bastions reflects the buttressing of
the church at Ashridge, Hertfordshire, UK.
The forestry planting on the distant hillside includes drifts of
different species that are in scale with the patterns of the
vegetation and landform in the surrounding landscape
(Snowdonia, Wales).
The largest structures in the landscape, such as the Humber
Bridge, near Hull, UK, require plantations and tree clumps of
generous size to maintain good generic scale relationships.
Planting in a garden, whether public or private, should be of
sufficiently small scale to invite prolonged observation and
enjoyment (Stoke, UK). (Photo: Owen Manning).
When vehicles are passing at moderate speeds more variation in
shape and smaller groups of species can be appreciated (Swindon,
UK).
Only tree and shrub groups of sufficient scale will be perceived
from fast moving vehicles on a fast road. Note the contrasts
between the forestry plantation in the background, the edge of
regenerating native bush, and the varied herbaceous flora at the
road side (Bay of Plenty, New Zealand).
This planting of sedges, Astelia chathamica and Libertia, together
with paving and pebbles, is of a scale that invites movement and
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reinforces the drama of the distant landscape. An intricate
foreground would have been out of place here (Hamilton, New
Zealand). (Design and photo by Dietmar Bostfleisch, Studio of
Landscape Architecture)
This restrained planting at Dartington Hall, Devon, UK, shows
mutual enhancement of complementary hues, combined with
harmony of texture and form. Note the colour harmony of the
purple flowers, grey foliage and the stone in wall and path.
This sunken garden at Thames Barrier Park in London, UK, is a
good example of planting that reflects a central design concept.
The dockland history of the area is expressed in the form of the
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garden and in the wave—like shapes of the yew hedges. The planting
is contained in long strips between the hedges and narrow paths.
This is an innovative development of the traditional mixed border
with hedge backing.
The icon of the New World city grid has been applied, with a
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sense of humour, to the planting in this San Francisco, USA, plaza
to represent the pervasive idea of the city as geometry.
The inspiration for this planting is made explicit. A stream of blue,
white and purple pansies (Viola hybrids) tumbles down an artificial
hillside at the Stoke National Garden Festival, UK.The moorland
grasses and rushes not only reinforce the suggestion of an upland
stream but their subdued browns and greens provide a complement
to the brighter colours of the pansies.
Use of bold foliaged species can create a jungle—like character in
temperate regions by echoing the large—leafed characteristic of
tropical rain forest (Newby Hall,Yorkshire, UK).
The spring garden is a common seasonal theme.This woodland
walk at Dartington Hall, in Devon, UK, designed to be at its peak
in spring with carpets of naturalized woodland flowers and shrubs
such as Camellia and Magnolia.
Rose gardens are traditional examples of planting on a taxonomic
theme. This one at Newby Hall, Yorkshire, UK, features shrub and
species roses.
An artificial boulder scree with acid soil provides a habitat for
planting design at the Glasgow Garden Festival, Scotland. Heathers
(Calluna vulgaris), heaths (Erica sp.) and birch (Betula sp.) not only
grow well but also look at home in this kind of terrain.
This classic example of a planted drystone retaining wall is at the
restored Jekyll and Lutyens garden at Hestercombe in Somerset,
UK.
The wildflower meadow is a common habitat theme. This example
is nearWhakatane, New Zealand and most of the flowers as well as
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grasses are introduced species, but are none the less attractive in
this rural setting. 127
The development of a hotel and conference centre in an old
quarry at Hagen, Germany, provides the opportunity for
naturalistic planting which reinforces the sense of place. (Photo:
Owen Manning) 127
A waterside theme may be adopted even when the soil is not in
contact with a water body by planting species such as Alchemilla
mollis and Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’ that we associate with water
but which do not require permanently moist soil (Lincoln County
Hospital, Lincoln, UK). 127
The woodland habitat is well suited to ornamental planting and,
in many large gardens and parks, provides a theme for collections
of shade and shelter loving plants such as smooth Japanese maple
(Acer palmatum) (Bodnant, Wales). 127
This grouping at the University of Canterbury, New Zealand,
consisting of gossamer grass (Anemanthele lessoniana) and tawhai
or beech (Nothofagus sp.) forms a plant signature referring to the
typical forest edge/glade communities of the dryer Canterbury
mountain forests. 128
New Zealand podocarp—broadleaved forest at Kaitoke near
Wellington showing massive emergent northern rata above a
dense evergreen broadleaved canopy and some shrubs and tree
ferns below. 134
Typical British oak woodland in spring, showing understorey of
regenerating tree species as well as small trees and shrubs.The
herb layer is partly dormant but grass is vigorous in lighter areas
(Sheffield, UK). 134
Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) and sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus)
woodland has colonized and established itself in an abandoned
chalk quarry near the river Humber, UK. Note the rich shrub and
herb growth beneath the trees. 203
In this high canopy oak woodland (Quercus robur) a cross—section
of three—layered woodland structure has been revealed by felling in
preparation for road construction. An understorey of shrubs
including elder (Sambucus nigra) and hazel (Corylus avellana) is
well developed and clearly distinguishable below the oak canopy.
Beneath the shrubs a field layer of bramble (Rubus fruticosus),
honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) and shade—tolerant herb species
can be found although its density is limited by the shade cast by the
two strata above it (Nottinghamshire, UK). 206
This high canopy oak (Quercus robur) wood, which is located in a
country park, demonstrates a two—layer structure. The understorey
is largely absent but a field layer of grasses and other herbs is well
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developed.The spatial qualities are quite different to those in a
three—layer wood and the openness beneath the tree canopy is well
suited to informal recreation use by comparatively large numbers
of people (Nottinghamshire, UK). 206
New Zealand forest establishing vigorously from planted stock
including the more light—tolerant podocarps such as rimu
(Dacrydium cupressinum - seen here with the pendulous foliage)
and totara (Podocarpus totara). Pioneer tree and shrub species tree
ferns and ground ferns were also included in the original planting
(University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand). 207
Natural colonization of forest tree and shrub species in sheltered
semi—shade under an old manuka stand.The manuka is even aged
and colonized following the destruction of the original forest by
fire (Orongorongo range, near Wellington, New Zealand). 207
This Surrey (UK) woodland is being managed as coppice and
standard. It can be seen from the age of the standard oak that it is
still in its early years.The coppice layer consists mainly of Spanish
chestnut (Castanea sativa) and rowan (Sorbus aucuparia). The birch
(Betula pendula) in the foreground has also been cut back and is
regrowing strongly. 21 1
Self—sown birch (Betula pendula) and goat willow (Salix caprea)
have colonized open land to form this pioneer low woodland at
Stocksbridge, Yorkshire, UK. Note the high canopy woodland
developing in the background. 225
A mosaic of open space and young woodland of birch (Betula
pendula) and oak (Quercus petraea) in a Sheffield park, UK. (Photo:
Owen Manning) 225
This fenced framework plantation for a science park in Warrington,
UK, contains a woodland scrub mix of transplants and groups of
staked ash ‘whips’ (Fraxinus excelsior). Note that the plantation
incorporates and protects a remnant of an old hedgerow. 225
Scattered planting of low thicket scrub transplants protected by
tree shelters in an exposed coastal location in Cumbria, UK.
Species include burnet rose (Rosa pimpinellifolia), gorse (Ulex
europaeus), goat willow (Salix caprea) and sea buckthorn
(Hippophae rhamnoides) (Photo: Weddle Landscape Architects) 226
Low scrub, including gorse (Ulex sp.) and dwarf willow (Salix sp.),
is now well established on a south—facing slope at the wildlife
garden site, planted for the 1984 Liverpool International Garden
Festival. 226
High canopy woodland in an urban park in Sheffield, UK, with an
open edge that allows free access between the open space, the path
which follows the edge and the interior of the wood. 227
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Gorse (Ulex europaeus) and wild roses (Rosa arvensis and Rosa
canina) form a low edge to roadside woodland planting in Milton
Keynes, UK.
A clipped Cotoneaster lacteus hedge forms a neat dense edge to
mixed woodland structure planting at the entrance to a business
park near Leicester, UK.
Outlying groups of self—sown birch (Betula pendula) add to the
spatial intricacy and microclimatic diversity on the edge of this
wood, Stocksbridge, UK.
This belt of woodland is no more than four metres wide but, ten
years after planting, provides an excellent screen to extensive car
parks. In the future selected coppicing of shrubs and thinning of
trees will be necessary in order to maintain the visual density of
the belt throughout its height (Warrington, UK).
Traditional laying of a recently established rural hedge in Cheshire,
UK. Note the fence put up to contain stock while the hedge is
developing into a stock—proof barrier.
Tall willow hedges shelter kiwi fruit orchard in Bay of Plenty, New
Zealand. Salix matsudana is commonly used for this purpose.
This broad, medium—height hedge of box (Buxus sempervirens)
provides low—level enclosure for bays of colourful bedding. A
weaving hedge such as this is an excellent means of structuring a
linear planting area and creating well—proportioned compartments
for planting display. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Boundary definition and containment are important functions of
hedges. New Zealand totara (Podocarpus totara) is a good formal
hedging plant for urban locations (Hamilton, New Zealand).
An urban hedgerow of Norway maple (Acer platanoides) planted in
a hedge of Cotoneaster lacteus. The restricted width available for
planting made this a suitable means of integrating the decked car
park within the planting structure of the office development site
(Warrington, UK). (Photo:Weddle Landscape Architects)
Hedge clipping is easier if trees are planted next to rather than
within a hedge (Warrington, UK).
An magnificent single line avenue of the tropical rain tree (Albizia
saman) line the approach to Toloa College, Tonga.
Plane trees planted at 6—metre spacing in rows and 7 metres
between rows form a strongly defined avenue at University of
California, Berkeley, USA.
An unusual avenue tree is ti kouka or New Zealand cabbage tree
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(Cordyline australis) seen here in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. It
lacks the regularity of traditional avenue species but more than
compensates with character.
These closely planted double avenues of Fagus sylvatica are part of
the great Renaissance park at Het Loo in the Netherlands. The
impression is of great green arcades lifted high on sturdy pillars of
the beech trunks. (Photo: Owen Manning)
Small trees such as Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Bessoniana’ form intimate,
human scale avenues and are particularly successful when set within
larger enclosures such as urban squares or streets (Vision Park,
Cambridge, UK).
The trunks of this small palm avenue are delightfully clothed with
climbers to give low level detail to the curving space (Singapore
Botanical Gardens).
Pleached limes (Tilia sp.) separate the building from the bicycle
park (Leuven, Belgium).
A laburnum tunnel, such as this famous one at Bodnant in North
Wales, can impress not only with its spectacular flower display in
May but also with its dynamic spatial qualities.
A large—scale climber tunnel creates a dramatic vehicle entrance to
Auckland Regional Botanical Gardens, New Zealand.
Pleached lime (Tilia) create a geometric setting for sculpture in a
Bristol park, UK.
Clipped trees planted in a strict grid in London’s docklands
redevelopment area.This approach is traditional in France and
represents the ultimate in the reduction, abstraction and
formalization of the spatial idiom of the forest.
A number of fruit crops, including apple and kiwi fruit are grown
on this kind of post and wire structure. There is an opportunity to
reinterpret contemporary growing techniques such as this, as well
as traditional espalier and fan methods, in amenity landscape and
horticulture (Canterbury Plains, New Zealand).
Ornamental shrubs may have a structural role within small spaces.
This tree mallow (Lavatera thuringiaca ‘Kew Rose’) separates two
seats in the precinct of Leicester Cathedral, UK.
Woodland or scrub structure planting consisting mostly of native
species may offer detailed decorative interest of flower, fruit and
foliage as well as spatial definition and shelter.
Established shrubs and herbaceous plants spill over the path edge
at Knightshayes Court, Devon, UK, to give a delightfully irregular
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natural outline. Note how the scale of the curves in the outline
reflects the size of the plant groupings. 255
The edges of planting beds need protection in busy areas. These
sloping walls of stone sets are both a logical extension of the
paving and an attractive complement to the decorative qualities of
the plant material (Glasgow, Scotland). 255
Narrow planting beds do not provide adequate soil conditions and
are vulnerable to trampling. 256
An edging of stone to a herbaceous border has many advantages.
Grass cutting is easier, plants can be allowed to spread over the
edge, access and work to the border in wet weather will cause less
damage to the edge of the lawn, and crispness of line is visually
satisfying (Sheffield, UK). 256
A mixed planting of shrubs and herbaceous plants creates a fresh
and colourful ornamental landscape for this office development in
Warrington, UK. Herbaceous plants in this scheme include
Bergenia, Iris,Astrantia major and Geranium species. 258
It is partly the close proximity between the small light—foliaged tree
and the building that makes this planting successful. Harmony of
colour and complementary form and pattern make it a pleasing
association of trees and architecture in Germany. (Photo: Owen
Manning) 258
This multiple—layered ornamental planting at Newby Hall,
Yorkshire, UK, includes a light tree canopy of Betula jaquemontii,
a scattered shrub layer of azaleas (Rhododendron sp.) and a diverse
low groundcover including Tiarella cordifolia, Bergenia, Polygonum
afline and Alchemilla mollis. 258
The revival of interest in planting with perennials including grasses
and their use in public spaces is well represented here at Thames
Barrier Park in London. 258
The assertive form of Astelia chathamica in the foreground makes
it an effective accent plant in this public square in Whakatane,
New Zealand. Here it is contrasted with the fine textures of the
korokio (Corokia X virgata), pohuehue (Muehlenbeckia axillaris)
and sand coprosma Coprosma acerosa. 263
The inspiration for a specimen group might come from a natural
plant assemblage such as this rainforest group of nikau
(Rhopalostylis sapida) kawakawa (Macropiper excelsa) and pate
(Schefllera digitata) in Paparoa National Park, New Zealand. In
suitably shady and moist conditions the three species could be
planted to form the ornamental ‘plant signature’ of the forest from
which they originated. 263
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Astelia,Anigozanthos and Pachystegia, against a background of
Corokia hedge, make a simple and striking specimen group near
the entrance to the observatory in Wellington Botanic Garden. 264
This woodland wild garden at Wisley in Surrey, UK, consists of a
mix of naturalized exotic herbaceous species including Alstroemeria,
Campanula, Geranium, Astrantia major,Aconitum and Astilbe mixed
with natives such as Digitalis purpurea and Hieracium. The utmost
sensitivity in management is required to establish and maintain
this kind of planting. 266
A meadow and scrub wild garden at Santa Barbara Botanic
Gardens features Californian native herbs and shrubs in a setting
of mountains clothed in Chaparral scrub. 266
To allow luxuriant growth, planters that are separate from natural
ground (such as these on a roof garden in San Francisco), must
be of sufficient width and depth to provide adequate soil volume
and avoid rapid drying out. 273
If raised planters are to include standard trees, a generous width is
desirable because this allows good capture of natural precipitation
(Union Square, Seattle, USA). 273
A south—west facing wall is an ideal location for growing tender
climbers and shrubs such as Camellia saluenensis, Cytisus
battandieri, Acacia dealbata,Abutilon species and Magnolia
grandiflora (Bodnant, Wales). 275
A well—proportioned pergola furnished with Vitis, I/Wsteria and
Clematis at Barrington Court, UK. 275
These steel and wire structures are specially designed to introduce
vegetation into a busy confined space in Germany. The climber is
I/Wsteria. (Photo: Owen Manning) 275
This pergola displays a relatively high proportion of structure to
foliage but the balance is successful because of the quality of the
timber—work at Het Loo, The Netherlands. (Photo: Owen Manning) 275
This decorative fence is designed with climbers in mind. Hydrangea
petiolaris is able to scramble up the open timber—work with the aid of
occasional tying in to the laths (German garden festival site). (Photo:
Owen Manning) 276
Vitis coignetiae rambles through this double row of steel posts with
the aid of wires strung between the posts and forms a sculptural
combination of hard and soft elements at Broadwater Park,
Denham, UK. 276
Alyssum and aubrietia have colonized and are being maintained
over large areas of this stone retaining wall at Haddon Hall,
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Derbyshire, UK. They combine well with climbers and other
planted species. 277
Tables
9.1
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
10.5
10.6
10.7
10.8
10.9
10.10
10.11
10.12
10.13
10.14
11.1
11.2
Period of interest (northern hemisphere)
Period of flower (northern hemisphere)
High canopy woodland mix
Planting mix showing proportions
Planting mix showing group sizes
Spacing for each species
Woodland core mix
An example of a wet woodland mix
An example of a New Zealand low forest mix
Birchwood mix
An example of a shrub thicket mix (calcareous soil, UK)
Shrub thicket mix (lowland, NZ)
Shrub thicket mix (poor soil, NZ)
Woodland scrub mix
An example of a tall edge mix
A New Zealand equivalent for an edge with a shaded aspect
Typical plant spacings
Converting spacing to density
185
186
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218
221
221
222
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226
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228
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Acknowledgements
I am indebted to many people who have influenced and inspired me in my study,
practice and teaching of landscape design.Their enthusiasm and ideas have led,
ultimately, to the writing of this book.
I would like to acknowledge my particular gratitude to those people who have
had a direct influence on its production. Wu Jia—Hua of the Zhejiang Academy of
Fine Arts in Hangzhou, China, has made a major contribution with his engaging
and informative sketches and also through our many inspiring conversations
about design. Many of the plans were drawn by Stella Lewis in her lively,
informal but highly effective style. Oliver Gilbert and Owen Manning of the
University of Sheffield and Dan Lewis of Sheffield City Council have offered
valuable comment on particular chapters of the book and have helped me to
refine and develop these. For the second edition, Landscape Architect Julia
Williams provided valuable feedback from a New Zealand perspective. Kenneth
Warr and the late Jean Warr’s editorial advice, word—processing skills and
enthusiasm for the project were invaluable, particularly during the more difficult
early stages. Many students at the Universities of Sheffield and Gloucestershire
in the UK, Cal Poly at San Luis Obispo, California, and Lincoln in New Zealand
have been encouraging and supportive, and have always offered valuable advice
when asked what they would hope to find in a book on planting design. Most of
all, I hope this book provides a valuable resource and an inspiration for them and
other students of design in the landscape.
Iwould also like to thank all the practices that generously offered and provided
examples of professional drawings. These have been invaluable as a means of
illustrating the processes and procedures discussed in the book.
Finally, I thank my partner Kris Burrows for her constant interest and advice
despite the long hours I spent on the mostly private pursuit of writing.
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Preface to the
Second Edition
This second edition of The Planting Design Handbook has been comprehensively
revised to account for developments in planting design practice and theory in the
ten years since the book was first published.The design of the book itself has also
been improved, to give greater emphasis to the visual nature of the subject.
A particular feature of this edition is the inclusion of many examples from
parts of the world in addition to north—west Europe. New Zealand features
strongly in both text and illustrations because of the author’s practice in that
country, and because of the need for a book on planting design that addresses
the distinctive character of the vegetation and of planting design there. Although
the flora of New Zealand is quite unique, its ecology has links with that of other
warm temperate and humid subtropical regions, so the new material will be
instructive for designers working in those climates in other regions. Further
examples have been added from other countries, ranging from the United States
to Singapore, in order to illustrate the application of design principles in a wide
range of climates and within different cultural settings. It is hoped that the
inclusion of these international examples will make the handbook widely relevant
as well as inspiring designers by illustrating contrasting approaches and different
plant palettes.
An international focus brings not only interest and variety, but also raises
important issues of plant selection. First, plants must be well suited to the
climate of the site. The plants illustrated in the plates and given as examples in
the text, are from a range of climates and the designer should check on suitability
and availability in his or her own region of work.To help the designer and student
the location of photos has been given whenever possible. Second, an
understanding of both cultural and ecological context is important when
designing with plants within an existing ecosystem. A plant that is a choice
ornamental in one place (requiring expert care to keep it alive and in good
health) may be a serious pest in another (requiring costly management to keep
it from degrading local biodiversity) - one man’s treasure is another man’s
rubbish. The reverse also applies - plants that are regarded as worthless in one
culture may be of great botanical or technological interest in another. The
designer should always check that the species proposed would not become pests,
and that those to be removed may not have a special value to another culture or
in another context. The examples given in this book are intended only to
illustrate design principles and are not recipes for planting. As a general rule, no
plant should be used in design without a thorough knowledge of its suitability for
the local environment, ecology and culture.
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Introduction
Planted vegetation is an essential part of our environment. The human landscape
we inhabit results from our manipulation of the inorganic substances and the
organic life forms of Earth. As soon as we consciously modify the vegetation in
our human home, whether to farm, to build or to make a garden, then we create
possibilities for design with plants. This book is about how to use plants in the
planned, designed and managed landscapes of the twenty—first century.
When we design with plants, we design with nature. This is true whether we
are re—building eroded slopes, re—vegetating cleared forest, or measuring out an
urban garden, because all plants are living, growing, changing things that form
part of the dynamic pattern of the natural world. This makes plants quite
different to any other medium of design. That their medium is alive is the
planting designer’s greatest asset; it is also their biggest challenge. They must
understand natural forms, processes and interactions as well as visual and spatial
phenomena. To design with nature does not equate with attempting to imitate
natural forms, rather, it means understanding and working with living processes.
In my work as an educator in landscape architecture and horticulture, and in
my professional experience as a landscape architect, I am aware of the need for
a comprehensive and focused treatment of planting design. It is my belief -
indeed it is the premise of this book - that planting design is fundamental to
landscape design and to landscape architecture. Planting design can, and should,
determine space and form in the landscape, in both rural and urban places, and
at scales great and small. To relegate planting to the mere filling of shapes
determined by a greater design concept, is to regard it as if it were a paving
material or a walling unit. Planting is the one medium that makes landscape
design unique among design disciplines and by using its full potential with
confidence and innovation designers in the landscape can develop a distinctive
professional profile.
The visual and spatial qualities of planting are fundamental to its aesthetic
impact and this book is an attempt to provide a systematic examination of these
effects. In particular, I would like to help convey the exciting potential of plants
as a three—dimensional design medium. At the same time, I hope to show how
lasting success with plants is deeply dependent upon an appreciation of plant
form and natural processes.
In the text, I commonly refer to the ‘planting designer’. This is not a
professional title; rather it is a reference to the professional doing the planting
design. The ‘planting designer’ will often be a landscape architect. Because
planting design is an integral part of landscape design, much of the advice
xlii
The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
contained here will be relevant to the process of landscape design in general, so
I hope the book will be particularly helpful to that profession. The book is also
aimed directly at professionals working in amenity horticulture, whether they are
responsible for private gardens, public plantings or corporate landscapes. In
addition, it will be relevant to urban designers, architects and civil engineers,
because it can help them solve aesthetic and technical problems that they
encounter, and because buildings, roads, bridges and other structures often need
planting to help them achieve good site planning.
Some of the principles of spatial and visual design discussed here are shared
by architecture and other three—dimensional design disciplines. All are concerned
with the qualities and experience of form/space and pattern. This book aims to
show both what planting designers have in common with other designers, as well
as to explore what makes living plants a unique medium for design. I hope that
the common ground revealed by this approach will help to promote shared
inspiration among everybody who is working for a better environment.
The first part of this book will examine the principles of design with plants. It
will explore in depth the formal qualities of planting and consider the underlying
relationship between these and the ecological and horticultural characteristics of
vegetation. Planting design is a visual subject, so I will rely heavily on drawings
and diagrams to support and complement the text. Ihope that these pictures will
provide a parallel story to the text.
The second part will explore the diversity of processes by which designers
develop an idea or solve a design problem. It will trace the design from project
inception to its realization on the ground and will show how design principles
can be applied through design procedures. In this way, it will demonstrate how
well—devised procedures can help the creative process. Each stage is illustrated
with examples of professional drawings produced by landscape architects in
practice and students in training. Note, however, that I shall not attempt to give
comprehensive advice on the management of landscape commissions or planting
contracts. This is the subject of a number of publications on professional
practice, for example, Hugh Clamp’s Landscape Professional Practice (1989).
The final part of the book is entitled Practice. This will attempt to identify
good design technique and illustrate good practice in the choice and
arrangement of species for various kinds of planting. Examples of drawings of
actual projects prepared by landscape designers are used throughout to
demonstrate the recommendations of the text.
The text contains numerous plant names. Both scientific names (in italics) and
local/common/vernacular names have been given whenever possible. The
scientific name helps us to understand the position of a plant in the scientifically
ordered plant kingdom while local names help to give some picture of the plant’s
cultural importance. Where no common name is given this is normally because
no such name is in widespread use or because the common name is the same as
or unmistakeably similar to the scientific name (for example Rosa = rose). If the
reader has any doubt about the identity or common name of a tree or shrub they
can use reference works such as Mark Griffiths (1994), Index of Garden Plants,
Macmillan; Geoff Bryant (1997) Botanica, Bateman; and Hillier Nurseries
(1991) The Hillier Manual of Trees and Shrubs, 5th edn, David and Charles.
Readers interested in the Maori names of New Zealand plants are referred to
James Beever’s A Dictionary ofMaori Plant Names (1991), Auckland Botanical
Society. Botanical, ecological and horticultural terms are explained as they are
introduced into the text. If further information on such necessary jargon is
needed, The Penguin Dictionary of Botany (1984), published by Allen Lane, is a
comprehensive reference tool.
PART 1
Principles
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CHAPTER 1
Why Design?
What is the purpose of planting design? Plants grow in great quantity and
diversity in all sorts of places without, often in spite of, our attentions, so it is
quite reasonable to question the role of planting in environmental planning and
landscape architecture.
The answer is, I believe, threefold. First, landscape design helps us to make the
best use of our environment. A landscape that is truly functional is one that
provides for breadth of use and human involvement, rather than narrow
exploitation or segregation by a single interest. Planting design is an essential
element in making and managing this kind of people—place. Words such as
liveliness, complexity, subtlety, resilience, flexibility and sustainability all help to
describe the design potential we can unlock with intelligent planting.
Second, planting design helps us to restore and maintain a sustainable
relationship between people and their environment in a context of change. It
does this by helping to conserve valuable ecological systems and in creating or
reconstructing habitats. It also helps simply by introducing green space where
before there was only grey space.
Last, but not least, planting design offers aesthetic delights as complex and
intense as those found in galleries or exhibitions. Its aesthetic impact can be
thought—provoking, soothing, exciting and so on - according to the intentions of
the designer and the state of his or her soul. In the realm of the senses, the sights,
scents and sensations of plants, even the sound made by wind and rain in leaves
and branches - all these add to the quality of daily life. Such aesthetic quality is
often hard to quantify, but its effect on well—being can be profound.
These three reasons for planting design - use, ecology, and aesthetics - are not
independent. Consider a landscape that gets its basic spatial order from the
demands of cultivation and husbandry. A classic example of this was the English
countryside of hedged fields, which arose largely from the enclosure of open
fields in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. This ordered framework
provided not only containment and shelter for stock but, as it matured, became
an extensive and diverse wildlife habitat. As well as its role in farming and wildlife
the English countryside became one of the nation’s great assets, attracting
tourists from around the world and representing a key part of the national
identity. It signified a benign balance between production, nature and beauty.
However, its integrated character is now fading fast under extreme pressure from
modern farming techniques and urban development.
Without forgetting the interrelationships, let us look a little more closely at
each aspect in turn.
4 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Planting Design — an Expression of Function
Throughout history the arrangement and cultivation of plantings has expressed
human use of the land. This has been the case not only with the cultivation of
food, timber and other crops but also in planting which was intended not for
economic production, but for recreational use.The forms of the earliest pleasure
gardens in Persia were adapted from the agricultural landscape of the fertile river
plain with its irrigation canals and regularly spaced fruit trees. In eighteenth— and
nineteenth—century England, hedges planted to enclose fields were planned to
improve farming efficiency and increase profits. The shelter, containment and
image of productive order that these hedges provided also helped to give the
English pastoral landscape a distinctive scenic character. The relationship
between usefulness and aesthetic reference is demonstrated by the common
structural role of the hedge in English gardens and parks from the nineteenth
century onwards. The garden hedge is an echo of the hedged enclosures of the
English lowland countryside - it performs a related role, but on a smaller scale.
The character and purpose of planting design is as varied as human use of the
land. The landscape designer allows for all kinds and levels of activity ranging
from rare visits to private or near inaccessible landscapes to intensive multiple
use of the public realm in urban centres. Planting design has a role in the
landscapes where we live, play, work, study, gather for community functions, and
where we enjoy our leisure. All these places need an environment that fits and
facilitates our needs. It must provide the right amount of space, the right
microclimate and the right scale and character, as well as specific facilities like a
path, a seat, lighting and so on. To make a comparison, the furniture designer
creates a seat to sit on; the planting designer creates a place to sit in.The planting
is part of an environment that fits the function.
Many activities require buildings, roads, car parks, waterways and other built
structures. Planting design is much more than a cosmetic treatment to be applied
to indifferent or insensitive architecture and engineering in order to ‘soften’ the
harsh edges or disguise an awkward layout. It plays a major role in integrating
structures in the environment by reducing their visual intrusiveness, by repairing
damage to existing ecosystems and, more positively, by creating a setting which
is comfortable, attractive and welcoming. New planting, as well as conservation
of existing, is an essential element in good site planning for many types of land
use.
If well designed, planting is an apt expression of function and of the needs of
the users. A children’s play area makes a good example. The basic provision of
equipment like swings and climbing structures allows children to engage in
activities, but it does not create the best environment for play. This needs more.
It needs a defined and welcoming place, separation from traffic for safety,
segregation of boisterous from quiet play, enclosure for shelter and - to give older
children a sense of independence - opportunities for discovery and adventure,
and the raw materials for creative and fantasy play. All of these can be provided
by planting. Shrub planting can enclose, shelter and separate, but trees and
shrubs also create a whole environment which can be explored, where dens
and tree houses can be built, where there are trees to climb and swing from, and
where plants and animals can be discovered. Play planting would need to be
robust, varied and vigorous and quite different from the kind of planting that
would be right in a communal garden for the elderly or in a busy urban centre
precinct.
One of the major challenges of environmental design is the accommodation of
several different functions within any single area. Environmentally sensitive
l/Why Design? 5
Plates 1, 2 and 3 Planting design makes an
essential contribution to an environment fit for living
(housing court, Sheffield, UK; Birchwood Boulevard
Technology Park,Warrington, UK, and city street,
Singapore).
Plate 4 Without planting, retaining
structures of this scale would be
dominating and intrusive. The planting
makes them an asset to the local
environment while emphasizing their
sculptural form (Munchen Gladbach,
Germany).
Plate 5 Tree planting integrates and complements
structures at the Paul Piggot Memorial Corridor,
Seattle, USA.
6 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 6 Planting helps to
3 create an environment suitable
for children’s play by providing
a comfortable microclimate,
the sense of special place, and
plenty of robust trees and
shrubs for climbing, swinging
and imaginative play
(Warrington, UK).
forestry practice provides a good example of how recognizing multiple—use
requirements has led to more sophisticated design. Early plantations had narrow
objectives. They were laid out and managed purely for commercial efficiency,
exploiting the maximum available land for timber production. Little or no
attention was paid to visual amenity or to habitat conservation. However,
increasing recognition of recreational uses, visual amenity and the need for
wildlife conservation has led to forestry being more sensitively sited, the inclusion
of indigenous species along the visible and accessible edges, and the retention of
valuable existing habitats within the forest area. Production forestry development
now often includes attractive picnic, walking and wildlife study areas.
So good planting design endeavours to provide for all the uses of a place and
to respect the needs of all the users.
Planting Design as Management of Natural Vegetation Processes
There are circumstances in which the natural processes of colonization and
succession of vegetation will be enough to repair the loss of the ecosystem, or to
make an environment suitable for human need and activities. Spontaneous
colonization of vacant urban sites, for example, can result in attractive urban
commons that are enjoyed by children, dog walkers, blackberry pickers and
naturalists; a road cutting in a rural area can be a home for colourful wildflowers
and become a diverse meadow or scrub community.
Landscape designers mostly become involved when natural processes need
some assistance or management, for example, to speed up the colonization
process, such as on a denuded steep slope which would otherwise erode; or to
direct the succession by planting particular species to increase diversity in a
young woodland community. These are both examples of managing natural
vegetation processes and the intervention is restricted to what is necessary for the
site to function. In these cases there is no need to supplant the spontaneous
‘natural’ plant community with an imposed, planted one. Indeed, there might be
good aesthetic reasons for using the spontaneous, indigenous colonizers that
reflect the local character or make a better habitat for wildlife.
Most planting design, however, involves a much greater degree of control over
natural processes. The extreme case is a highly manicured garden of exotic and
tender species that could not exist without constant horticultural intervention.
This kind of completely artificial planting is appropriate in the right setting; it is
not intrinsically better or worse than the minimum intervention, ecological
approach.
Plate 7 No planting or seeding is needed on this
sandstone cliff face inYorkshire, UK. Natural
colonization is appropriate.
Plate 8 This verge beside a busy trunk road has
developed into an attractive species—rich native
meadow (UK).
Plate 9 A roadside verge in rural Canterbury, New
Zealand, hosts an attractive range of naturalized
flora, including Echium and Achillea species.
l/Why Design? 7
Plate 10 The indigenous European
dune species, marram grass (Ammophila
arenaria), is well adapted to this coastal
fill site, but planting to assist
establishment is necessary (Cumbria,
UK).
Plate 11 After 18 months only a few
traces of intervention remain visible. The
geotextile netting is employed to reduce
surface erosion (Cumbria, UK).
8 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 12 A high degree of
control over natural vegetation
processes is demonstrated in
this highly manicured display
of hybridized and selected
flowers at Gruga Park, Essen.
Good design means choosing the kind of planting and management that is
appropriate to the site and its uses.This will often mean the one that requires the
lowest level of intervention in natural processes necessary for the planting to
meet the design objectives.There are two reasons for this. Firstly, it will cost less,
because less labour and material resources are used. The second is more
debatable. It depends on our perception of the environment, and what about it
we value most highly. If we accept the environmental ethic that nature is
intrinsically valuable then we will take the opportunity to allow spontaneous
vegetation to develop with minimum intervention. This is not to say that we
should take the ecological approach everywhere, only that we should not replace
it with a horticultural landscape without reason.
Both planting design and its subsequent care can be understood in the
broadest sense as management of natural vegetation processes. Different types of
planting merely need a greater or lesser degree of intervention to establish and
maintain the ‘target’ plant community. Our purpose should be to understand and
work with natural processes so as to fulfil the functions of the planting.
Planting Design for Aesthetic Pleasure
Aesthetic pleasure is an important objective of planting design. Planting offers
enjoyable sensory experiences and creative opportunities for art and design. The
idea of pleasure is deliberately and often falsely associated with consumer
products and lifestyles - this is a successful technique for stimulating demand,
but the products and experiences rarely live up to their billing. In reality, the
consumer culture is one which often frustrates genuine delight. With landscape
and planting design we aim to create an environment which can help people to
live fulfilling and enjoyable lives. The pleasure of a lovingly tended garden or of
contact with wild plants can contribute a lot to our daily well—being and foster a
genuine recreation of the spirit.
What is Successful Planting Design?
We have identified three main purposes of planting design: functional, ecological
and aesthetic.The extent to which a design serves these purposes can be used to
judge its success.
Of course, different planting projects will have different priorities and these
should be reflected in the attention given to meeting the functional, ecological
and aesthetic requirements. Take shelter planting for an exposed site as an
l/Why Design? 9
Plate 13 This shelterbelt in
north—west Scotland combines
effective wind speed reduction,
habitat diversification and
visual harmony with the local
landscape. It provides the
microclimate needed for the
cultivation of a wide range of
plants in Inverewe Gardens,
Scotland.
example. Its primary objective will be effective shelter and improvement of the
microclimate of the site. The character and aesthetic qualities of the vegetation
can best be considered once we are confident that we can provide the technical
necessities of optimum wind permeability and aerodynamic profile, conserve
valuable habitats and take any opportunities to create new ones. A successful
shelter planting will thus
1. reduce wind speed and turbulence over the required distance,
2. improve, or at least not damage, the ecology of the locality and
3. make an aesthetic contribution to the place and the project.
The criteria of functional performance and ecological fitness can be assessed
more objectively than aesthetic value. In other words, there is more likely to be
disagreement on aesthetic criteria because views about what is visually successful
or desirable vary enormously. This is the case not only with different people’s
opinions, but with one person’s taste and views, which can change significantly
during their lifetime (many critics and designers are good examples of this).The
kind of environment we like or need can also vary from day to day according to
mood. It is this variability and the personal element of judgement that leads to
the popular notion that design is subjective.
When assessing the success of planting schemes, designers certainly should ask
themselves if they like it, and should evaluate and reflect on their work.To review
the aesthetic impact of a planting design, we need an understanding of the
aesthetic characteristics of plants and the affects of these in planting
composition.This is the subject of Chapters 3 to 7.
In addition to our own analysis, we should ask if the client and the users like
it: does it satisfy their needs and aspirations? The likes and dislikes of the client
and the users of landscape can be different from that of a trained designer and
part of our professional role is to understand and provide for their preferences
and needs. As designers we might have distinctive styles and firm opinions, but
when we are engaged as professional consultants, our first duty to the client is to
achieve a landscape which is successful in their terms.
CHAPTER 2
Plants as a Medium
for Design
Designers of all kinds share at least some common principles, and those working
in three—dimensional media such as landscape, sculpture and architecture share
an interest in form and space. However, the qualities and potential of the
materials they work with vary, so before considering visual and spatial design
principles, we should get to know the characteristics of plants as a design
medium.
Plants as Living Materials
Plants are growing, changing, interacting organisms and plant communities,
whether spontaneous (those we commonly call natural) or designed, exist in a
state of flux. Even a long—established community, such as a mature forest, is
unlikely to be unchanging in its composition. Old trees die back or blow over,
allowing fresh bursts of growth in the lower layers of vegetation and seedlings to
grow into saplings to begin the next generation.
On a larger scale, environmental events such as landslides, floods, volcanoes,
freak weather and climatic change all lead to alterations in plant communities.
Plate 14 The development of a simple tree and Plate 15 The same area (but viewed from another
shrub planting association over its first ten years: A angle) three years after planting shows a well-
view one season after planting shows scattered tree established thicket of shrubs and establishing trees.
and shrub stock of a similar size to when they left
the nursery (car park building, Sheffield, UK).
Plants as a Medium for Design 11
Plate 16 After ten years the trees and larger shrubs
have attained a woodland structure at heights of up
to 10 metres and have begun to have the impact for
which they were planted - the car park building is
partly screened and enjoys a woodland setting.
Two examples are the severe storms that, in recent decades, devastated trees and
woodlands in south—east England and later in northern France (including the
gardens at Versailles); and, in New Zealand, the 1886 Tarawera eruption that
destroyed forests, scrub and cultivated land over a large area near Rotorua. In
both cases, we can now go and see the natural process of forest creation in full
flow. Whether we follow a single plant through its life cycle from seed to
senescence, or watch a whole forest develop on cleared land we are experiencing
the dynamic, developmental order of the plant world.
Environmental Factors
In addition to the genetically programmed aspects of growth and development,
plants are continually interacting with their environment. Environmental factors
cause big variations in the growth of plants and some of these can be controlled
by design or management, while others cannot. What follows is a brief summary
of the environmental factors that are most important in design.
The weather, as it changes from day to day and from year to year, influences
growth rate, form, foliage density, flower and fruit production. The elevation,
Plate 17 The favourable microclimate provided by a Plate 18 The dramatic effeCtS Of light Can giVe
south—facing wall allows the growing of plants which unpredictable yet memorable qualities to planting
would not survive in the open. Abutilon and Ceanothus (B0d1'131'1t Garden; Wales)-
spp. (shown in this photograph), Fremontodendron
californica and Magnolia campbellii are among the
shrubs grown successfully in the walled gardens at
Newby Hall in NorthYorkshire, UK.
12 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
aspect and topography of a site and its surroundings can modify the local climate
and cause variations in the microclimate of the site. A favourable microclimate
would produce taller, extended and more luxuriant growth whereas an exposed
or impoverished location would lead to a compact or stunted habit and smaller
leaves. On an ephemeral level, the changing qualities of light at different times of
day and season, and the humidity and other atmospheric effects can cause subtle
or striking visual effects. Regional and local variations in soil also affect growth
characteristics such as extension rate, bio—mass production, leaf and flower
colour, ultimate height and vulnerability to pests, disorders and weather damage.
The growth of a plant is also influenced by its neighbours. They modify
microclimate, tending to increase shade, shelter and humidity, but to reduce
precipitation at ground level. Vegetation also affects soil conditions, tending to
reduce available moisture and nutrients in the short term but, over a longer
period, to increase the humus and nutrient content of the soil.
Certain types of vegetation, for example many conifers and moorland grasses,
can acidify the soil reaction by the chemical composition of their leaf litter. This
can lead to a build—up of only partly decomposed organic matter and a reduction
in available nutrients. Birch, on the other hand, improves moorland soils by
returning leached nutrients to the surface in its leaf litter.
Diseases and pests affect the growth and development of planting. In rural
locations, animals such as cattle, sheep, deer, rabbits and opossums are selective
grazers that restrict the growth of edible species while allowing the spread of
others that they find unpalatable. This kind of influence helps determine both
individual plant form and the composition of plant communities.
Finally, human pressures are a crucial and often unpredictable biotic factor
affecting plant growth and development. In densely populated areas, pollution,
vandalism and rubbish dumping can seriously interfere with the performance of
plants. For example, erosion by excessive foot trafic, pedal or motorcycle riding can
destroy or prevent the development of the lower layers of vegetation and the
regeneration of shrubs and trees. In addition to these incidental human influences
we can also regard fashion and taste as habitat factors (Gilbert, 1989). They
influence the management and make—up of plantings, favouring those that are in
fashion and reducing the survival chances of those regarded as ‘untidy’, ‘boring’ or
‘past their sell—by—date’. Examples include the spread of dwarf conifers through
British suburban gardens in the 1960s and 1970s and the ‘niche’ for mixed native
shrub planting that appeared in New Zealand gardens and landscapes in the 1980s.
Cycles of Plant Growth and Development
Another aspect of plant growth and development that we cannot control or
predict with certainty is the time dimension.
The period (length) of different growth rhythms varies greatly, from diurnal
rhythms such as the opening and closing of flowers to the annual rhythm of the
seasons.The entire life cycle of a plant can, in the case of ephemerals like groundsel
or shepherd’s purse, occupy a period as short as six weeks. For long lived trees like
kauri (Agathis australis) in New Zealand, yews (Taxus baccata) in Europe and the
bristle cone pine (Pinus aristata) in North America, it can be in the order of millennia.
As designers, we need to know the distinctive character of the different stages
of the plant’s life cycle.Young growth, reproductive maturity and senescence are
usually distinguished by very different habit and form so, at each stage, the
design role the plant can play will be quite different. The New Zealand horoeka
or lancewood (Pseudopanax crassifolium) provides a classic example of different
life stages. The juvenile and adult stages of horoeka are so wildly divergent in
Plants as a Medium for Design 13
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their appearance that the first botanists to classify them (Dr Daniel Solander
and, later, Sir Joseph Hooker) actually placed them in different genera! (Kirk,
1889). Growth stage can affect not only a plant’s appearance and design role, but
also its environmental requirements. For example, some forest dominant trees
such as many of the New Zealand podocarps need shelter, humidity and shade
to establish, but will tolerate quite harsh exposed conditions when mature.
Aftercare
Another distinctive aspect of planting design is the vital role of landscape
management. After installation, the young planting needs careful and creative
tending for a number of years if the design intentions are to be fully realized.This
14 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 3.1 Ground—level planting (carpeting plants).
30 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
turf species when mown or grazed, absolutely prostrate shrubs (e.g. funiperus
‘Bar Harbour’, Thymus serlyllum lanuginosus, Rubus X barkeri) and creeping
herbaceous plants (e.g. Lysimachia nummularia, Scleranthus biflorus, Pratia
angulata). Its primary spatial role is as a ‘floor’ that allows both free vision and
movement. This enables it to perform a number of roles:
0 On even, firm ground carpeting plants can provide a pedestrian circulation
surface, although less hard—wearing than a pavement. The most wear
tolerant species include many of the turf grasses that, when grazed or mown
regularly, form surfaces suitable for relaxing, walking, play, sport, cycling
and occasional vehicles. This durability accounts for much of the value and
popularity of lawns, meadows and other grasslands in both public and
private landscape.
0 A uniform carpet of mown grass or ground—hugging, smooth—textured
groundcover can be used to enhance the visual effect of ground modelling
by closely following the contours. Species include prostrate chamomile
(Chamaemelum nobile ‘Treneague’) or piripiri (Acaena sp.). Breaks of
slope can be emphasized by a change to a groundcover of contrasting
foliage.
0 Ground level vegetation can be used to make two—dimensional patterns.
Carpets of foliage, used alone or combined with boulders, gravel and paving
materials, form a tapestry of colour, texture and pattern across the ground
surface.
Shrubs and Herbaceous Plants Below Knee Height (Low
Planting)
Shrubs and herbaceous plants that form a higher canopy but still below knee
height have further possibilities in spatial design. Many of them come within the
category of ‘groundcover’, that is, species that are well adapted to the local
conditions and competitive enough to exclude most of the unwanted, self-
colonizing ‘weed’ plants. In addition to this labour—saving benefit, low planting
has the spatial role of allowing freedom of vision while defining an edge and
deterring (though not preventing) movement.
0 Low planting can, when used by itself, form a visual platform or ground
plane like carpeting plants.
0 It can be combined with taller herbaceous species, shrubs or trees growing
up through it. This situation is like a foundation or wash in painting, or a
‘ground’ against which the ‘figure’ is to be seen. In this way, low planting
can give a common ground or platform that unifies other planting and
elements in a composition.
0 Many prostrate species that form low groundcover will trail down walls and
banks and form hanging curtains (prostrate rosemaries - Rosmarinus
oflicinalis - are a classic example). Trailers and climbers can be planted to
form a continuous mantle of foliage over vertical and horizontal surfaces.
Foliage will cascade down banks and walls and flow over flatter ground,
masking the angles between vertical, horizontal and inclined planes. By
clothing new and old alike, climbers can give a sense of belonging and
maturity to new structures or earthworks that have been inserted in an
established landscape.
0 Low planting has an essential role at the edges between hard and soft
landscape and between soft landscape areas of differing uses. Tall shrubs
Spatial Characteristics of Plants 31
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Spatial Characteristics of Plants 33
need room to spread laterally without encroaching on circulation space.
Low planting can provide a groundcover over which the taller species
extend freely without the need for frequent cutting back or shaping. If this
groundcover spreads over pavement or grass some incidental or natural
‘pruning’ will result from trampling. Where traffic is light, occasional
trimming is needed.
Knee to Eye Level Planting (Medium Height Planting)
Planting that grows to between knee height and eye level can have a similar
design role to a low wall, fence or rail. It becomes a barrier to movement and can
be used to limit access but it leaves views open and makes little difference to
sunlight. This opens up a number of spatial uses for medium—height planting.
It can separate areas for safety reasons: for example, keeping people or
vehicles away from steep slopes, water or from each other.
It can be used to acknowledge and emphasize desire lines or pathways
where visual enclosure is not wanted.
It can be used to maintain a distance between people and buildings and
other private areas, in this way giving privacy while not growing above
window sill level and reducing light.
It can define a building curtilage or domain, in a similar way to a low wall,
fence or hedge, but less formally.
A mass of medium foliage fringing a building or other structure can visually
anchor it to the ground and link it to the surrounding landscape. This is
particularly important when a building or other structure is introduced into
a landscape characterized by generous existing vegetation.
Planting Above Eye Level (Tall ShrubISmall Tree Planting)
Shrubs and small trees with a canopy extending above eye level form a visual and
physical barrier. So tall planting with a close knit canopy can, in a similar way to
a wall or fence, separate, enclose, screen and shelter on a smaller scale than is
possible with larger tree planting.
In the human scale landscape of parks, gardens, courtyards, streets and
playgrounds tall planting gives privacy and shelter and screens intrusions
like car parking, service areas and refuse bins.
Like a wall or fence, tall planting can make a backcloth to ornamental
planting such as herbaceous borders and display beds. Clipped ‘formal’
hedges have traditionally played this role in gardens, but looser shrub
planting can also be effective. Classic hedging plants include yew, Taxus
baccata, beech, Fagus sylvatica and hornbeam, Carpinus betulus for tall
hedges in northern Europe. Monterey cypress, Cupressus macrocarpa, and
totara, Podocarpus totara, make fine clipped hedges in warmer climates.
Because of its size, tall planting can play an accompanying role to buildings.
Its visual mass is similar to small buildings so it can be used to balance areas
of their masonry or cladding.
An isolated pair of tall shrubs or a gap in mass planting creates a frame. It
can frame a whole vista or attract attention to a focus or landmark.This kind
of arrangement not only focuses attention, but also invites exploration. Like
an arch or gateway, it suggests a different place to be discovered.
When planted as individuals or small groups, choice tall shrubs have the size
34 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Spatial Characteristics of Plants 35
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36 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
and presence to act as specimens and a feature or visual focus within a
human scale landscape.
Tree Planting
The sizes of trees are of the same order of magnitude as buildings, roads, bridges
and smaller industrial developments. Tree planting can therefore be used for
screening, separating, sheltering, enclosing, accompanying and complementing
these larger structures. When tree species grow freely to produce a clear main
stem or bole with their canopies above head height they leave the space above the
ground open except for the vertical pillars of their boles. This offers a quite
different type of spatial element.
Mature heights of trees range from about 5 metres in species such as weeping
pear (Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’) and akeake (Dodonaea viscosa), to over 40 metres
in European ash (Fraxinus excelsior), New Zealand kahikatea (Dacrycarpus
dacrydioides), some conifers from the west coast of North America and many
Australian eucalypts (Eucalyptus species, especially E. regnans the mountain ash).
For design purposes it is helpful to divide trees into small: mature height 5-10
metres; medium: 10-20 metres; and tall: 20 metres.
0 Small trees are of similar height or lower than the majority of buildings of
two storeys, so their influence in the urban environment is mainly local to
the spaces between buildings.
0 Medium trees can create spaces that contain smaller buildings and therefore
have a greater effect on the spatial structure of urban landscape.
0 Tall trees are less common in urban areas because of the space they
demand, although naturally tall growing species are often planted in streets
and gardens only to be lopped or pruned once they begin to shade or
dominate nearby buildings. The size of trees over about 20 metres enables
them to form the part of the primary spatial structure of streets, squares and
parks. In the rural landscape large trees create a large—scale framework.
0 Medium and tall tree planting can play a crucial role in integrating massive
industrial buildings, like power stations, into the surrounding landscape.
Tree belts and plantations enveloping and extending outwards from such
sites provide screening of near distance views. From greater distances,
although they cannot hide structures on the scale of cooling towers or
turbine houses they can visually anchor them to their supporting landscape
and screen the lower level ancillary development, temporary buildings and
car parks.This is a vital landscape role because the low—level clutter is often
the most disturbing part of large—scale industry.
0 The ability of trees to screen and obscure views from further away than
shrub planting can be made use of to manipulate views as the observer
moves through the landscape. Carefully located gaps in planting open up
vistas or frame a focus at just the right moment. Like a window or an
archway, a frame of branches or foliage directs attention and focuses the
mind on what is beyond it.
0 A single specimen or small group of trees, on the other hand, itself acts as a
focus. Being an isolated object, it occupies a small area in our field of vision
and our eye tends to rest on it. A tree with a distinctive feature such as
autumn colour or picturesque habit will make a particularly notable focus.
Large tree specimens or groups have this effect at some distance and so
provide foci and landmarks in the larger—scale rural landscape.
0 When single specimens or small groups of trees accompany buildings the
Spatial Characteristics of Plants 37
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38 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Spatial Characteristics of Plants 39
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40 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Spatial Characteristics of Plants 41
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42 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
relationship between the form of the tree and of the building can be
interesting. Humphrey Repton formulated a rule, in the picturesque
tradition, prescribing which tree forms best accompanied different
architectural styles. He recommended that buildings in the classical style
with broad, stable proportions and shallow roof angles, be accompanied by
the rising lines and upright forms of fastigiate trees such as spruces or firs.
Conversely, the rising pinnacles and steep pitched roofs of the Victorian
Gothic Revival would be complemented by stable rounded or horizontal
spreading trees such as cedar of Lebanon, English oak or chestnuts.
O A further architectural role of tree planting might be the linking of varied
building styles. A simple, regular line of one species can provide uniform
frontage or a free—standing counterpoint to an architectural facade. Its
continuity can bind together different building styles so that the
architectural variety adds interest within a unifying green framework.
We have seen how the height and habit of plants determine many of their spatial
functions.The control of vision and circulation is fundamental to spatial design.
How we combine plants to create spaces of various characters and for various
purposes provides the subject of the next chapter.
CHAPTER 4
Creating Spaces
with Plants
When we arrive at a site for the first time and start to imagine its potential for
design, one of the most immediate qualities to strike us will be its spatial
character - whether it is expansive and exhilarating, bleak and open, confining
and threatening, intimate and comforting, and so on. Space is a bit like colour in
as much as we sense its basic nature almost instantaneously - we are aware of
space, before we start to notice the details of a place.
Some of our first design ideas will include the scale and character of the place
that we want to create. Imagining different qualities for a site is a good way to
start design and once we have a basic understanding of spatial composition, these
qualities can be interpreted in a framework for the site. (This is one way to
overcome the perplexing problem of what to do on a blank sheet - more about
designer’s block later!) Starting to envisage and sketch out spatial qualities and
relationships is fundamental to landscape design. It is a bit like the sketches a
sculptor might make as he or she works on a concept for a piece.
Before we look at how the medium of planting can create landscape spaces
with the kind of character and qualities that we want, we should first ask why
spaces are so important for our experience of the environment.
The Experience of Space
Our experience of space is the result of the sensory perception of our
surroundings. As Erno Goldfinger described in his early article ‘The Sensation
of Space’ (1941) it is the product of all our senses.The smell and feel of the air;
the quality of the sound of voices or birdsong, footsteps, car engines, the texture
of the ground under our feet are all sensory qualities of space that contribute to
our experience in addition to what we see.
These qualities are the result of physical size and form, surface patterns,
textures and colours. Surface qualities give much information about where we
are: for example whether it is a natural or artificial environment (such as a rock
outcrop or city paving) and whether it is friendly or hostile (such as rolling
pasture or desert sand dunes). Although the size and shape of spaces around us
have a primary role in our experience, they are often overlooked. Perhaps this is
because space is a holistic phenomenon rather than a separate object, and harder
to define and grasp in a practical way. Edmund Bacon’s urban design approach
in Design of Cities (1974) emphasizes this: ‘Awareness of space goes far beyond
cerebral activity. It engages the full range of senses and feelings, requiring
involvement of the whole self to make a full response to it possible.’
44 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
One explanation for our responses to spatial arrangements is offered by the
geographer Jay Appleton’s behavioural theory of prospect and refuge (Appleton
1986). His theory is one of the few in landscape architecture concerned with
why, rather than how. It is based on the continuing influence of humankind’s pre-
agricultural relationship to its habitat. The habitat was a landscape where food
needed to be hunted, gathered, or grown in small gardens but also a landscape
where dangerous predators roamed. In these circumstances, an enclosure such as
a cave offered refuge while a commanding viewpoint (for example, a hilltop)
allowed danger to be anticipated or food to be identified. Because of this, an
enclosed space felt safe and therefore relaxing whereas a prospect was
stimulating and exciting. An exposed location such as the open plain, while
allowing good vision, also meant that you could be seen and so would produce a
mixture of excitement and caution.
Jay Appleton believes that our responses to the hunter—gatherer landscape were
so essential for survival that they remain ingrained in the biological fabric of
experience. Thus, exposure and enclosure and combinations of views and
screening continue to elicit archetypal responses of anticipation and excitement,
caution and anxiety, relaxation and safety, according to their archaic survival
meaning. This unconscious meaning of spatial form helps to explain why some
sizes and shapes of spaces feel ‘right’ and others do not. For example, too
confined an enclosure or an unfamiliar place without a clear exit route is no
longer safe but threatening, whereas a large expansive space is unsatisfactory if it
is cluttered with objects that obstruct views and stop us from getting any clear
prospect.The right combination of enclosure and outlook will give a balance of
welcome refuge and pleasant prospect.
Prospect—refuge theory is useful for designers because it reminds us that when
we design spaces we create experiences. Although it was developed mainly by
reference to rural and natural landscapes, the theory can also be applied to
complex urban spaces created by buildings, topography and vegetation. Its
foundation in theories of hunter—gatherer behaviour is overlain with a diversity of
social demands and opportunities that are the products of the specific cultural
setting of our present day lives.
We can understand, then, our perception of space as an integrated whole, a
gestalt built up from a variety of received sensory information that is interpreted
in the context of our biological and cultural heritage.This helps us to understand
why space is not simply the gap between objects - the absence that allows us to
perceive the presence - but something with an impact and a meaning in its own
right.
The Use of Spaces
Whether spaces are conducive to the activities taking place within them is
determined not only by their functional provision but also by their physical
composition. We must endow the space with aesthetic qualities that fit it for its
purpose.
John Ormsbee Simonds reminds us in his classic textbook Landscape
Architecture (1983) that ‘a space may be so designed to stimulate a prescribed
emotional reaction or to produce a predetermined sequence of such responses’.
For example, it could be restful or dynamic, protecting or exhilarating. The
responses could be more complex, involving emotions like gaiety, reflection, even
awe. It is important that these responses are appropriate for the use of the space.
Contrast, for example, the wonder that we feel at the soaring architecture of a
cathedral with the personal insignificance or anxiety we might experience when
Creating Spaces with Plants 45
hemmed in by poorly designed high—rise. In the first case the scale and
proportions of the space speak to us of inspiration and aspiration that transcend
the personal, in the other we feel merely depersonalized.
In landscape design, including urban design, planting can play a primary role
in creating spaces.These spaces are often described in the language of buildings.
Outdoor ‘rooms’ can be enclosed by ‘walls’ of planting, ‘floors’ surfaced with
grass or ground cover and a ‘ceiling’ can consist of a spreading tree canopy,
climbers on a pergola, or simply the sky. ‘Doorways’ or ‘gateways’ give access to
these spaces and ‘windows’ are formed by gaps in a foliage canopy or merely by
the natural permeability of trees and shrubs with an open branching habit. The
basic spatial form can be ‘decorated’ and ‘furnished’ with ornamental planting.
This building vocabulary can be useful to the planting designer for two reasons.
Firstly, it reminds us that outdoor spaces, just like indoor ones, are designed to
be used as well as to be enjoyable. Secondly, it identifies the structural/spatial
aspects of planting that are important in the making of outdoor spaces.
The Elements of Spatial Composition
In The Visual and Spatial Structure of Landscape (1983), Higuchi analysed
landscape space in terms of four aspects:
Boundaries,
Focus-centre-goal,
Directionality,
Domain.
His study encompassed all the elements of the landscape, including topography,
water and structures as well as vegetation. We will interpret Higuchi’s four
aspects to identify those that are important for planting design.
Higuchi defines ‘domain’ as ‘the total space that is brought together and given
order by the conditions of boundary, focus-centre-goal, and directionality’.
Domain also has a social connotation, it suggests ownership and territory. This
is an important concept for design, but is a property of composite space, not a
primary element of composition, so we will discuss it in the chapter on
composite space.
‘Boundaries’ include both open boundaries enclosing edges. Open boundaries
that allow free access may delineate territory but do not define space. All spatial
boundaries are formed by some degree of separation and enclosure and so our
first element of spatial composition with plants will be enclosure.
The ‘focus-centre-goal’ of a space can be anything important enough to be a
visual focus, for example, a fountain, or a specimen tree, or it can be a natural
centre such as an amphitheatre, or a goal such as a lookout or building.
‘Directionality’ is the sum of all the aspects of space that give orientation or
directional emphasis. These include shape, proportion, focus, slope, even the
direction of the wind and sunlight. Directional elements introduce dynamic
qualities into space because they imply movement. So our third element of
composition will be the dynamics of space.
Enclosure
Higuchi takes a rather limited, architectural view of the spatial envelope. He says
that enclosure requires a barrier and ‘to be effective a barrier must be difficult to
penetrate. It must also shut the outside world off from view while at the same
46 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
time have a high degree of visibility within the domain it protects’. In other words
it must enclose and separate from what is outside.
But enclosure need not be complete. It can be clearly defined without being
impenetrable. Indeed, it is rare that full closure is needed in a landscape
situation. As landscape architect, Barrie Greenbie, points out in his book Spaces
(1981): ‘The openings in the walls enclosing a space make the difference between
an enclosure and a prison’.
The design and location of these openings will articulate vision and physical
movement within and between spaces. This is to do with communication and
relationship within the spatial landscape and is essential to the design potential
of landscape. By varying the placing, proportions and permeability of barriers we
can orchestrate spaces for different uses and effects. In looking at types of
enclosure we will take a systematic approach, but the intention is not to limit
flexibility in application, only to establish basic principles as firmly as possible.
These principles can then be employed with imagination and subtlety.
Degree of Enclosure
The de ree of enclosure is the len th of the erimeter that is enclosed b vertical
5% g P Y
planes. Different degrees of enclosure result in spaces that vary in character from
introverted to extraverted.
ENCLOSURE ON FOUR SIDES/360 DEGREES This creates the most
introverted character of space. It is appropriate if the site is surrounded by
incompatible or hostile environments. For example the earliest gardens in the
Middle East were fully enclosed to protect them from the inhospitable climate
and surrounding landscape. The Old Persian word for garden or park, Pairidaeza
is made up from pairi, meaning around, and diz, meaning mould. To mould
around an area was the essence of garden making. The classical Chinese garden
too, was completely separated from its surroundings - usually urban in this case
- by high walls. This allowed the creation of a contrasting and special world
within. A present—day counterpart would be a private inner city town garden
enclosed by walls or hedges. Other examples could include forest clearings, play
areas, outdoor classrooms, music rooms and theatres. Full enclosure is also
important for land uses that are ugly or otherwise intrusive, in order to minimize
visual, sound and atmospheric intrusion into the surrounding area.
Full perimeter enclosure can be extended to include overhead enclosure. This
is found in places such as dense woodland or a small courtyard shaded by the
spread of a large tree. Being so completely surrounded creates the most private
kind of place. But care is needed because, depending on its proportions and the
materials used, it can be pleasantly intimate or uncomfortably claustrophobic -
a refuge or a prison.
ENCLOSURE ON THREE SIDES/270 DEGREES This gives a high degree of
protection or separation to the space but also offers a directed outlook. It creates
both refuge and prospect. The prospect significantly affects the character of the
space by drawing attention beyond the limits of the space. A distant landmark or
vista may become part of the identity and character of the space even though it
is located beyond it.
Such a ‘space with a view’ would be appropriate for many gardens and play
areas and also for seating in public areas, especially in parks and countryside. But
note that there is a common problem of territory that occurs when small urban
spaces are too enclosed and separated from the busy activity zone. Such spaces
Creating Spaces with Plants 47
Plate 38 Enclosing boundary tree planting creates Plate 39 Clipped beech hedging gives medium
a protected, warm, sheltered and attractive space for height enclosure for this circular lawn.Trees and
informal games, walking, sunbathing and other
recreation in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco,
USA.
buildings provide taller enclosure beyond (University
of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand).
can become taken over by groups who are then experienced by other people as
threatening and the space becomes their territory. This can be commonly seen
where groups of seats are set in enclaves away from thoroughfares in parks and
city streets. This is a cultural issue as well as one of spatial layout. It tends to be
less of a problem where the street and the urban public realm is seen as a social
arena and not merely a route from A to B.
ENCLOSURE ON TWO SIDES/180 DEGREES The enclosing elements may be
L—shaped or C—shaped and may define space half by delineation and half by
implication. The full domain of the space will cover roughly the area of ground
that would be enclosed if the two omitted sides had formed a mirror image of the
actual sides.The space will have an outward looking, extraverted character with
free access across half the boundary and a clear orientation towards a landmark,
attractive outlook or simply towards the sun.Yet, a sense of place, a feeling of
having arrived somewhere, is created by the limiting and sheltering function of
the two sides. Such spaces can be welcoming.
Two—sided enclosure may be ‘free—standing’ rather than a condition of the edge
of a larger mass. If it is free—standing in a flowing, wider space it will create a
subsidiary domain. This combination of protection and orientation is made good
use of by farmers in parts of Japan where L—shaped shelterbelts protect farm
buildings from winter wind and snow.
Semi—enclosed spaces are frequently encountered in the form of niches or
enclaves in the edge between open space and solid mass. They can be quite
informal, occurring along the edges of forest or scrub where natural irregularity
creates a serpentine or fragmented edge. Despite their unplanned nature, such
enclaves are an important part of the spatial structure of informal or nature—like
planting where they add smaller scale spatial variety to large—scale landscapes.
In the more formal setting of many urban landscapes a semi—enclosed enclave
can provide variety and incident along the edge of a route or around the
boundary of a larger, dominant space (the arena at Parc Guell in Barcelona
provides a famous hard landscape example). In addition, seating areas,
ornamental display planting, building entrances and gateways can all benefit
from the protection combined with ease of access offered by this configuration.
48 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
. \
Plate 40 Shrub and tree planting provides Plate 41 Planting forms seating enclaves along the
enclosure behind and over the seat giving shelter and edge of a route in Robson Square, Vancouver
shade, creating a delightful space while emphasizing
the outlook (Singapore Botanical Gardens).
OB}ECT/FOCUS If enclosure is much less than 180 degrees, spatial definition
is weakened and soon becomes ineffective. If the structural element is isolated
rather than forming part of a structural continuum it will be experienced as a
free—standing object rather than a space—forming enclosure.
Although no distinct spatial boundary is defined, such an object can create a
field of influence around itself. There is a tendency to feel fully in its domain,
when we are within a radius equal to the height of the object. This is only an
approximate boundary but it can be useful to be aware of it when locating key
objects.These objects behave as foci and their effectiveness is often greatest if the
boundary of their influence is reinforced on the ground by some kind of physical
definition so that they become a focus within a clearly established space.
To define the space that focuses on an object can help avoid the risks of the
compound influence of separate objects. This can easily create a landscape
which, as a whole, is formless and without boundary. For example, a series of
‘island beds’ or a scattered collection of specimen trees can be unsatisfactory as
a spatial composition; they are objects that need to be located in spaces and play
a role within a firm spatial structure.
Permeability of Enclosure
The framework of green spaces is constructed from plants of the different growth
habits and canopy heights described in Chapter 3. They offer various
combinations of visual and physical enclosure and openness.This is what we will
call the permeability of enclosure and is as important for the composition and
the character of space as is the degree of enclosure.
VISUALLY AND PH YSICALLY ENCLOSED Enclosure is complete. The
boundaries of a space consist of impenetrable foliage to above eye level.This will
consist of shrubs with a naturally close—knit canopy to near ground level, or
clipped hedging.There are no significant gaps in the planting, at least not below
eye level, and so complete separation is achieved.
The resulting space, if enclosed around more than half of its perimeter, will
offer shelter, protection and seclusion. Attention will be focused on what is
03.150"-
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Figure 4. 1
of enclosure.
Degrees
Creating Spaces with Plants 49
within the space rather than what is beyond it unless any openings in its
enclosure and perimeter are directed towards a notable view.
’ PARTLY VISUALLY ENCLOSED, PH YSICALLY ENCLOSED Openings that
extend below eye level in the enclosing planting will form windows that allow
visual penetration of the space. These may be small, allowing only Carefully
Controlled glimpses out and in, or they may be more generous, giving a greater
degree of Connection between inside and outside.
Windows can be Created by omitting tall planting in Chosen positions to leave
Clear gaps, or they may be more loosely formed by trees and shrubs with an open
habit that allow views through the tracery of their branches.
PARTLY VISUALLY ENCLOSED, PH YSICALLY OPEN Shrub planting is
omitted so there is no barrier to movement but a narrow band or single line of
trees Clearly defines the boundary and their boles interrupt and frame views
across the boundary. Trees form a Canopy above head height and the spacing of
the trunks will determine the amount of visibility between them. Comparatively
dense tree planting at 1-2 metres apart eventually forms a frame around
numerous tall and narrow ‘doorways’. A line of trees at wider, regular spacing
would form something more like a Colonnade, the trunks becoming Columns
supporting an arching Canopy of branches and foliage above.
The advantage of this kind of space is easy Communication with surrounding
areas Combined with a strong sense of place, of being within.
VISUALLY OPEN, PH YSICALLY ENCLOSED Full visibility is achieved by
planting that is mostly below eye level.Yet shrubs at knee to waist height form an
effective barrier to movement. A space enclosed in this way by medium—height
shrub planting will be Clearly defined and separated from surrounding ground
and yet allow an open prospect in all directions. It will feel open even if there is
only one entrance. Because of the exposed nature of such a space it is often used
as a subsidiary space within a larger, dominant enclosure that offers more shelter.
Nevertheless, medium shrub planting Creates a Clear boundary and can
effectively define a domain where territory must be identified and easy
surveillance is required.
VISUALLY OPEN, PH YSICALLY OPEN A domain can be defined by low
planting of knee height or below. This allows Complete visibility and, though it
discourages movement because the surface can be difficult to walk on, it does not
altogether prevent it. Indeed, some groundcovers can tolerate a moderate
amount of foot traffic. The role of low planting in this kind of space is not to
separate but to link visually the distinct areas or zones, giving an uninterrupted
flow of space between them.
Enclosure is one key element in the Composition of spaces. Its degree and its
permeability can be manipulated to Control the linkages and inter—relationships
between spaces. These relationships will be examined further in Chapter 5 on
Composite space and transitions. In addition to enclosure, the designer needs to
understand the effect of its shape and relative proportions because these give a
landscape Composition much of its dynamic quality.
Dynamics
The dynamic qualities of space are those that Create a sense of movement or rest
within it.
50 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 4.3 Static spaces and motive spaces.
Motive spaces can gain much of their dynamism from the tension set up by
irregularities of shape. The enclosing sides may approach one another, then
recede; they may be interrupted by sudden Changes in direction or their density
may vary along their length. This variation is like the rhythm of the space. It can
be regular and simple, or more Complex and varied, and it should Carry you
along.
The visual length of the space can be limited by bends, Corners or Changes in
level. The Concealment and anticipation that results Creates a desire to explore
and the shape of space can be designed to incorporate anticipation, incident,
surprise and arrival.
54 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Plate 51 If an avenue is long with no focus it can be
daunting for the traveller, especially if they are on
foot. This avenue however, does make the ramp down
to the underpass a more attractive and less
claustrophobic space than it would be without trees
(Milton Keynes, UK).
Plate 50 This mature avenue of plane trees
(Platanus) leading to Castle Arenberg, Belgium is a
grand and dynamic element of landscape structure.
Creating Spaces with Plants 55
Plate 52 The gate at the end of this alley at Plate 53 Curving linear spaces create curiosity and
Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire, UK, provides a anticipation by concealment. The gentle curve and
focus and also anticipates what lies beyond it. flow of the landform are further enticements
Hidcote Manor is a masterpiece of formal spatial (Ashridge, Hertfordshire, UK).
composition and provides endless examples of spatial
form.
Plate 54 This hillside promenade is fully closed
along one side but open to views over the distant
landscape along the other side. The waist-high hedge
screens foreground detail and the curving alignment
draws us on (Muncaster Castle, Cumbria).
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Figure 4.8 A focus or landmark.
60 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 4.9 A symmetric focus.
designers can easily place foci in the middle of a space with a result that is Clumsy
and prosaic. Good design of a Centric, symmetrical space requires just as much
flair and sensitivity as asymmetric, informal design.
Asymmetric Focus
When any object is located in a defined space, dynamic forces are brought into
action between the object and the boundaries of the spaCe.The strength of those
forces depends on the distance from the boundaries and the overall geometry of
the space.This principle is understood and used in the visual arts (de Sausmarez,
1964) and in architecture (Ching, 1996).
If the focus of a static space is located off—Centre the sum of the forces
introduces a dynamic, directional quality to the spatial Composition. Another way
of understanding this is to imagine the implied division of the space by its focus.
An asymmetric focus implies division into unequal parts and so Creates a
progression through the sub—divisions, usually in order of their magnitude
arriving at the focus itself.
So, an asymmetric focus introduces movement and rest within a space. This
dynamic tension adds to the Character of a space but is independent of the
Character of the focus itself. The dynamics of the space would be the same
whether the focus is an obelisk, a Coffee kiosk or a specimen tree.
Focus on the Boundary
The focus of a space can be located on the boundary or part of the enclosing
edge. Enclosing framework planting that is spectacular in Colour or form can
provide the main eye—Catcher and focus in the space. An entrance, because of its
importance as an access point or because it allows glimpses beyond, Could be the
Centre of attention. Indeed, in the absence of any other focus the main entrance
is likely to be the focus of a space.
A focus that is located within or on the edge belongs to the space because it is
an integral part of its Composition and is chiefly visible from within. Such an
internal focus emphasizes the feeling of arrival, of achieving the goal, of
Completeness.
Creating Spaces with Plants 61
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Plates 57 and 58 The focus of a space can be provided by a single specimen tree of sufficient stature. These
urban spaces are in Brugge, Belgium; and Northcote, Auckland, New Zealand, and in both cases the trees also
make an informal gathering place.
62 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 5.4 Circulation in clustered spaces.
Contained Organizations
One or more spaces can be Contained within a larger, all—embracing enclosure.
Ching’s ‘Centralized organization’ is one kind of Contained organization. The
Contained spaces can themselves be fully enclosed and so separate from the
surrounding space, or they can be only separate while still possessing a domain
that is differentiated from the larger space. The tilt yard in the gardens of
Dartington Hall, Devon, England provide such an example. This beautifully
proportioned space is defined by grass terraces, Clipped yew hedges and shrub
planting, but lies within the enclosure of a belt of forest trees on rising ground
that bounds and encloses the gardens as a whole.
A Contained organization can be two—tiered (a space within a space), three-
tiered, four—tiered and so on, although in practice it is rare to find Contained
organizations with more than three tiers out of doors. Any tier within the
Containing space can Consist of more than one space. The organization can be
Concentric (a Centralized organization), or the Contained spaces can be
distributed asymmetrically according to the requirements of Circulation and
other usage.
Composite Landscape 71
~24‘
Figure 5.5 Neath Hill, Milton Keynes. Residential, park and garden spaces cluster around a central open
space.
Unlike linear series and Clusters of spaces, a Contained organization relies for
its effectiveness on the relative sizes of the Constituent spaces. If a Contained
space is very much smaller than the Containing space, it takes on the Character
and role of a focus of that larger space. It is perceived from the dominant space
like an object rather than a second domain that can be entered and explored. On
the other hand if the smaller space is too large, then the larger, Containing space
will have insufficient domain and will lose its separate and dominant identity. In
this Case, either the two sets of boundaries simply reinforce one another to form
a double boundary, or a space of linear form is Created between the boundaries
that becomes an encircling path.
The experience of Contained spaces is one of deepening involvement, of
progressive penetration of boundaries, of gradual approach towards the Centre or
heart. Any of the spaces making up a Contained organization can be dominant by
virtue of the relative size, the strength of its enclosure, or the influence of the
focus. However, it is often either the largest space or the innermost space that
dominates - the largest space because of the extent and height of its enclosure,
or the innermost space because it is the goal of the Composition.The remaining
spaces play a supporting role, adding diversity and incident, subdividing domains
or offering a prelude to the innermost space.
72 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 5.6 Hidcote Manor, Gloucestershire. A complex of spaces clustered around the Theatre Lawn and
organized about two major axes at right angles.
Composite Landscape 73
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Figure 5.7 Types of contained spatial organization.
Hierarchy of Spaces
Linear, Clustered and Contained organizations will all have some degree of
hierarchy in their Constituent spaces. That is, there will be differentiation in the
status and function of spaces. Like a hierarchy of positions within a Company
organization, a hierarchy of spaces can be ‘vertical’ or ‘horizontal’. The number
of levels in the hierarchy depends on the purpose and nature of the spatial
organization.
Hierarchy According to Function
In his book Exterior Design in Architecture (1970), Ashihara described a
hierarchical order of spaces by uses. He listed the following pairs of opposites:
exterior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . interior
public . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . private
big groups . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . small group
amusement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . quiet, artistic
sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . non—movement, Cultural
74 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 5.8 Dartington Hall, Devon. The TiltYard is the focal space contained within enveloping woodland.
Composite Landscape 75
Plate 64 The Tiltyard at Dartington, Devon, UK, is
defined by ancient terraces reinforced by tree and
hedge planting. It forms the major gathering space
around which a number of smaller garden spaces
cluster. All are set within surounding woodland.
llliliuall.
Plate 66 Midland Park, Wellington, New Zealand is
a busy greenspace in the heart of the CBD. The
simple line of small trees that surrounds it on three
sides is vital to the spatial composition. They prove
sufficient separation and definition to create a space
contained within a larger space, enclosed by the
continuous wall of high rise offices. This change in
scale is vital to the relaxation and recreational
function of the park.
Plate 65 This park, constructed over a car park,
was part of the London Canary Wharf development
in the 1980s. It forms a protected green space within
the larger spaces formed by the massive buildings
and surrounding roads. The whole composition takes
the form of a two—tiered contained organization.
Plate 67 Blocks of trees and groundcover, although
rather regimented in arrangement, provide a
sequence of smaller sitting spaces contained within
the much larger architectural expanse of Millennium
Square, Bristol, UK.
Any single space will occupy a position somewhere between these opposites and
the successful design of Composite space depends on understanding and
articulating the position of Constituent spaces in the hierarchy.
Between exterior and interior, outdoors and indoors, the hierarchy of space
Could be developed so that we pass through a sequence in which each space is
more sheltered and enclosed than its predecessor. This would allow us to adapt
gradually to the Change or to Choose a place that has just the right Combination
of indoor and outdoor qualities for our purpose. Classical Oriental gardens and
buildings provide some delightful example of this kind of spatial hierarchy, with
76 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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lawn, enclosed by clipped hedges, is contained within the boundary wall and tree
planting.
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Figure 5.13 Hierarchy in contained organizations.
Figure 5.12 Hierarchy of clustered spaces.
verandahs, Covered walkways, sheltered terraces, walled enclosures and roofed
pavilions linking the larger outdoor spaces with indoor rooms. The inclusion of
structures such as pavilions and open rooms has long been a feature of tropical
gardens and parks where the shade and shelter from rain that they provide is
essential for the enjoyment of outdoor spaces. Planting, either alone or in
Combination with built elements, fulfils some of these functions.
At the other extreme, the transition from an extensive, exposed, outdoor space
to Complete enclosure within a building might be made, literally, in one step.This
simplest of hierarchies, Containing only the two opposites, is be found, for
example, in rural Cottages and other buildings standing alone in an expansive
78 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
landscape. Although it lacks the variety of a multi—levelled hierarchy, a single
threshold offers impact and drama.
The hierarchy of outdoor-indoor space is articulated primarily by variations in
degree and permeability of enclosure. The extension of structures from a
building to enclose the surrounding space is one effective way of Creating ‘semi-
outdoor’ spaces because the structures are obviously associated with the
building. Plants are more strongly associated in our minds with the outdoors so,
in the Creation of intermediate spaces, plants can bring ‘the outside’ into a
Conservatory or other planted room. They are also very effective at Creating
shaded and wind—sheltered space that can make an effective transition from an
indoor room.
The hierarchy of public-private spaces is a hierarchy of territories that belong
to increasingly small numbers of people. It is expressed in its most elaborate
form in urban areas where it can provide a framework for social interaction, a
way of giving shape to and bringing together what Barrie Greenbie ( 1981) Calls
the ‘Community of strangers’. Entirely public places are found in City squares and
shopping streets. Complete privacy is found in the home and its immediate,
enclosed curtilage. A number of writers (primarily Oscar Newman in Defensible
Space (1972)) have shown that positive social interaction and responsibility is
facilitated by a spatial hierarchy that makes a staged transition between public
and private. People need defensible space between their private domain and the
anonymous crowd.
Although territorial hierarchies have been thoroughly discussed in an urban
Context, this type of spatial structure is also relevant to other situations and can
be formed by planting as well as by built elements. As we have seen, planting can
Create boundaries with different degrees of permeability to suit the need for
separation between spaces. The hedge, for example, is one of the oldest ways of
marking the boundary of a territory.
Outdoor-indoor and public-private hierarchies provide two examples of how
the form and location of spaces can Clarify and facilitate purpose and use. Also
essential to the functioning of such spatial hierarchies are the transitions between
spaces.
Transitions
As we move through our environment we Cross boundaries and entrances of one
kind or another innumerable times. Many of these are so familiar to us that we
take them entirely for granted; for example, in entering our own section or
garden, turning into our own street or Crossing a bridge over a river into our
neighbourhood. Other boundaries assert their presence with more force. We
think twice before Crossing them or the experience of entering can be dramatic,
such as finding ourselves in a quiet enclosed Courtyard after a busy street or an
exposed sunny meadow after the shelter and darkness of a forest.
The transition between one space and the next can take many forms and its
precise nature will do much to influence our experience of the space we are
entering. Our first view of a place, like our first impression of a person, sets the
scene for an acquaintance. The basic form of the transition is Created by the
arrangement of the enclosing planes that separate the spaces. This will determine
how much of the next space is visible before Crossing the boundary and how
quickly its full extent is revealed.
At one extreme, overlapping enclosure forms the most abrupt transition that
Completely hides the space until we have Crossed the boundary and its domain is
suddenly revealed. This Creates suspense and surprise because we do not know
Composite Landscape 79
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Figure 5.14 Transitions and entries.
Plate 68 A gap in tall and medium shrub planting
creates an informal but concise transition between
intensively detailed building curtilage and the more
extensive parkland beyond (Hounslow Civic Centre
and park, London).
Plate 69 The planting comes so close in this
concise transition in Huntington Botanical Gardens,
Los Angeles, that there is real tension created
between the two spaces.
what to expect. It offers unknown territory and requires Curiosity and
Commitment on the part of the visitor. In Contrast, one space might flow gently
and gradually into the next so that most of the domain is visible before it is
entered.The boundary between these spaces would be merely suggested and not
strictly defined, so less intention is needed to enter. Between these two extremes
we find a variety of transitions that are more or less abrupt, but in general, the
more abrupt the transition, the more deliberate the act of entry must be.
The transition between two spaces will also vary according to what Francis
Ching Calls the ‘relationship’ between the two spaces. He identifies four
Conditions:
80 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
a space within a space,
interlocking spaces,
adjacent (abutting) spaces,
spaces linked by a Common space.
The first Condition is an example of a Contained organization and the remaining
three relationships can be understood as a type of transition between spaCes.The
shared domain of interlocking spaces plays the role of a transitional zone, the
threshold between adjacent abutting spaces will be at the ‘neck’ between them,
and a Common space linking two other spaces is specifically transitional and
analogous to the lobby or porch of a building.We shall now examine some of the
possibilities that these spatial relationships offer for imaginative design.
Transitions between Abutting Spaces
This can be a simple gap in a hedge or other separating planting. It can be
emphasized or elaborated by Creating a ‘gate’ or ‘archway’ using planting.
Changes in level on the ground can further articulate the transition, separating
the two spaces by height as well as by enclosure. The width of the gap will
determine how Concise the transition is. A screen can be added that overlaps the
entrance and prevents any view at all into the adjacent space. A very different
approach would be to separate adjacent spaces with a permeable enclosure that
allows visual and physical penetration over a wide area, but that still Clearly
distinguishes one domain from the other.
Transitions between Interlocking Spaces
The shared zone between two interlocking spaces can be defined by low planting
in which Case a gradual transition would be Created allowing a view of both
spaces. Because the two spaces overlap, not one but two boundaries would be
Crossed and we enter the domain of one space before we leave the other’s, so the
transition is staged. If the shared zone is defined by a Continuation of the visual
and physical enclosure that delineates the spaces proper, then an overlapping,
screened entrance is Created. If the size of the overlapping zone is large enough
and it is Clearly distinguished from its parent spaces, it would be a transitional
space in its own right.
Transitional Spaces
An intermediate, transitional space is separated from the domains it links by
some form of enclosure and has it own distinct Character. Yet, because it is
primarily a route and is subsidiary to the spaces it links, its Character is often
subdued and it prepares us for the next space, linking the two in our minds as
well as physically. Together the three spaces form a linear organization, which
include two entrances or subsidiary transitions.
Entrance Zones
Where a Concise transition forms a distinct entrance it is usually a strategic and
important part of a space. It is often a visual focus, and a gathering and meeting
area for people serving a similar function to a main entrance into a building.The
entrance to a larger space gives rise to zones where people Come together Close
to the enclosing elements of the space. Because it Comes under Close scrutiny, the
Composite Landscape 81
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82 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 70 A simple narrow gap in an enclosing Plate 71 An overlapping entrance ensures complete
hedge overhung with the branch of a nearby tree surprise on entering the space (Bodnant, North
provides a concise transition.The point of entry is Wales).
precisely defined and a glimpse of what is within is
revealed. This public park was once the
Bundesgartenschau at Mannheim, Germany.
Plate 72 A gradual transition is made between two Plate 73 This transition is made in stages. As the
distinct spaces but dynamic tension is created by the observer skirts the lake at Stowe, Buckinghamshire,
sinuous curve of the grass path, by the gap which UK, new views are opened and the far paddock is
first narrows and then widens and by the locations of revealed in carefully controlled sequence. Finally the
the clumps of trees being offset either side of the focus of the space, the Palladian Bridge, will come
opening (Askham Bryan College,York, UK). into view.
detail of entrance zones should be given Careful attention and can be designed at
a more intimate scale than general boundary planting. Entrances and transitional
spaces allow us to express the relationship between spaces and the relationship
between the people that use them.
On a particular site we might be blessed with a landscape with a strong existing
spatial structure and organization.This structure might need to be strengthened,
modified or added to, so as to accommodate fully the proposed Changes in land
use. Many sites, such as derelict land and demolition plots, however, have little
or no existing spatial structure. Here, new spaces have to be Created and
organized to help transform the site.
To meet the functional brief is only part of the design objeCtive.The form and
Character of the site itself, the spirit of the place - these can suggest the uses and
Composite Landscape 83
Plate 75 A larger transitional space, enclosed by
— — beech (Fagus sylvatica) hedges and pleached lime
trees (Tilia), forms the entrance zone to a public
park in Oakwood,Warrington, UK.
Plate 74 Trees and shrubs create a small but well-
defined transitional space between the precinct in the
foreground and the courtyard beyond the arch at
Leuven, Belgium.
kind of spaces that will be right for the place. A location with a fine view would
suggest an extraverted space, whereas a setting that was unsympathetic would
need a more introverted, inward looking arrangement. A site with substantial
existing tree and shrub Cover would suggest a smaller scale organization that
made use of the existing vegetation Character and Canopy structure. A steeply
sloping site would suggest spaces of an elongated shape because this would allow
development without the need for massive earthmoving and level Changes.
Now that we have an understanding of spatial Composition, we will return, in
the next Chapter, to the Characteristics of individual plants and Consider how the
visual qualities of form, foliage, flowers and fruit Contribute to the detailed
textures and Colours that Clothe the skeletal framework of outdoor spaces.
CHAPTER 6
Visual Properties
of Plants
Planting that is primarily structural, as well as Creating space, will also endow
that space with its decorative, visual qualities.The details of foliage, bark, flowers
and fruit all Contribute to the quality and Character of the space, even though
they are secondary to the basic structural framework.
There may also be other planting, within the structural framework, that takes
on a specifically ornamental role, providing aesthetic highlights and special
details. A display border within a hedged enclosure and Courtyard planting in
pots and beds are examples, and for this kind of planting it is the decorative,
visual Characteristics that are the key to success.
Before we examine these Characteristics in detail, it should be stressed that
decorative does not necessarily mean elaborate. Just as the decoration of a room
can be plain and simple, even minimal, the decoration of an outdoor space might
rely on the simplest of plantings for its effect. Although it is an exercise of design
inspiration and skill in its own right, it reaches the highest expression only when
the decorative aspects are integrated with the spirit and nature of the spatial
Composition.Then it becomes part of the space rather than a Cosmetic finish.
Subjective and Objective Responses to Plants
We all have personal responses to particular plants and Combinations of plants.
As professional designers, however, we need a model of planting aesthetics that
will help us design for the full range of people, places and functions that we will
meet in the Course of our work.
First, it is useful to distinguish our subjective responses from a plant’s objective
qualities. Tanguy and Tanguy (1985) describe the differences between what they
Call the ‘objective plant’ and the ‘subjective plant’.Their ‘objective plant’ Consists
of all the features or physical attributes that can be described and agreed on by
different people. People might have different interpretations and tastes but they
will more or less agree on features such as habit, leaf shape and even, though
perhaps to a lesser degree, Colour.
The ‘subjective plant’, by Contrast, Consists of the observer’s interpretation of
the objective plant. Many plants have strong associations and symbolic meanings
both for individuals and for groups of people with a Common Culture. For
example, the red rose is given as a symbol of love. It has Contrasting associations
as a tribal or political emblem: the white rose ofYork, the red rose of Lancaster,
the pink rose of the British Labour Party. This flower is one of the oldest of
ornamentals Cultivated in the western and middle—eastern world. Its association
Visual Properties of Plants 85
with the rites and rituals of human societies probably dates back as far as the
Minoan Civilization in Crete around 2000 BC. Evidence of this was found in a
fresco unearthed by the archaeologist Arthur Evans near Knossos. It showed
Ceremonial activity and included a rose resembling the Holy Rose of Abyssinia,
a form of Rosa damascena (Thomas, 1983).
In Classical Chinese gardens one of the most important functions of plants was
their symbolism. The bamboo representing resilience, the pine virtue, and the
apricot that bloomed on its withered old branches - these were the Celebrated
‘three friends of winter’, but perhaps the plant of the Orient most saturated with
symbolism is the lotus. For the Taoist, the lotus stands for friendship, peace and
happy union, and for Buddhists it is ‘the symbol of the soul struggling upwards
from the slime of the material world, through water (emotions), to find final
enlightenment in the air above’ (Keswick, 1986). Even an individual tree can
have a political symbolism. The single Pinus radiata that gave its name to One
Tree Hill in Auckland, New Zealand, was severely damaged as an act of political
expression, because of its Cultural and political symbolism.
When we are dealing with the symbolic or expressive type of aesthetic
experience, it is useful to distinguish between those aspects that are primarily
personal in their meaning and those that have a wider Cultural recognition. We
Could talk about the personal plant, the cultural plant and the biological plant - to
apply the philosopher Dewey’s three levels of aesthetic experience to landscape
design (Dewey, 1934). The biological plant, like the ‘objective’ plant would
embody those aspects of perception that are Common to people of all
backgrounds. The Cultural associations and meanings of plants (the Cultural
plant) have the potential to influence the success of a project, and the designer
needs knowledge and sensitivity in order to respond to and reflect the Cultural
aspects of planting preferences, especially if he or she is not of the same Cultural
group as the users.
An example of the power of association and of Cultural Change to influence
people’s Choice of plants is provided by the Common laurel. Cherry laurel
(Prunus laurocerasus), Portugal laurel (I? lusitanicus) and Japanese laurel (Aucuba
japonica), as well as other Common evergreens like Holly (Ilex aquifolium) and the
hardy hybrid group of rhododendrons, were much favoured by the Victorians for
large private gardens and public parks in England. This was partly for the shade
and seclusion that was fashionable at the time. Because of their resilience and
especially their ability to tolerate the severe atmospheric pollution prevalent in
industrial areas until the 1950s, these species survived in large numbers whereas
the more Choice flowering shrubs that had been planted with them have been
lost. The unrelieved evergreen shrubberies that remain have a dark, gloomy
atmosphere and have Come to be associated with the melancholy aspects of
Victorian Culture. As a result, and because of a desire for more openness and
sunlight, these species are now planted far less often than merited by their
objective Characteristics of growth and appearance.
Leaving aside the peculiarities of associations and trends, let us return to some
of the physical attributes that attract people to plants - the rugged forms of wind
sculpted trees, the wealth of Colour in the greens of summer foliage, and the
brilliant fruit and leaf Colours of a deciduous autumn. The whole landscape is
enlivened through the year by the Changing weather and light and its green
mantle is soothed by breezes and exhilarated by gusts of wind. In gardens and
ornamental planting, we find spectacular species grown for their flower display
and the extravagant Creations of plant breeders. These ornamentals are
Celebrated for the beauty of their flowers, their powerful fragrance or the highly
decorative qualities of their leaves and bark. Such ornamental highlights of flower
86 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
and fruit can be regarded as special effects because they are enjoyed for only a
short period. More subtle, but no less delightful, are the sight and sound of
plants moving in the wind and the Changing patterns of shadows Cast on walls
and ground.These are especially welcome in built environments where they offer
a living Contrast to the unyielding geometry of buildings and engineering.
However delightful these transient effects and the ornamental impact of
individual specimens, planting as a whole should be designed to look good
throughout the year, regardless of the weather. The best way to achieve this is to
Create a permanent visual foundation using the enduring qualities of foliage, bark
and habit. These essentials should form a successful Composition in their own
right as well as support the temporary displays of flowers, fruit and other special
effects.
In planting design, a keen visual sense is needed to produce a Composition that
both brings out the best qualities of the individual plants and is effective as a
whole. This sense can be partly intuitive, particularly with a good plant
knowledge, but design intuition is strengthened and further developed by
systematic study of what to look for in plants and how to make effective use of
these qualities in Composition.
The Analysis of Visual Characteristics
The appearance of an individual plant or a plant group can be analysed in terms
of the visual properties of form, line, texture and Colour. Although they are more
abstract than special effects like flower, fruit and autumn display, these
properties are fundamental to understanding Composition, and essential if we are
to Combine plants to form a visually effective whole. We will examine each
element in turn. Please note that the examples of species given to illustrate
different visual Characteristics are Chosen from a range of horticultural regions
and ecological Contexts, and should not be used without Checking their
suitability for the proposed location.
Form
The form of a plant is its three—dimensional shape. It can be seen from various
directions and distances and these different viewpoints and scales affect our
Comprehension of the form. A plant’s form can be explored at Close quarters, or
rather, the space around the form of the plant can be explored. This space can
become intricate and entangled with the solid form of the plant.
For example, a mature oak in an open area would appear, from a distance of
about five hundred metres, as a spreading dome with some gentle irregularity in
the outline and with part of the bole visible below the Canopy if the lower
branches have been removed. At a medium distance, say one hundred metres, the
sheaves of foliage arising from the main limbs will be visible as more or less
distinct, projecting parts of the Canopy and the main branches within will be
discernible in places. From this distance, the form will appear as a rough dome
with an undulating surface penetrated by gaps. If we approach within a few
metres of the tree or go under the Canopy, the form of the oak will be perceived
to be more Complex than seen from afar and to include quite different shapes
and qualities. The rugged, Cylindrical bole and branches will appear as the
dominant forms and the shape of the spaces inside the Canopy will form an
important part of the Character of the tree. Details such as the shape of a leaf or
the pattern of bark will be more Clearly seen than the overall shape of the tree.
Form is an important aesthetic Criterion for species selection. Florence
Visual Properties of Plants 87
Robinson Considered form, along with the other visual properties, in
Considerable depth, in her book Planting Design (1940). She reminded us that
‘form is built upon line or direction, and both are bounded by line or silhouette.
Thus mass and form, line and silhouette must be Considered together’.The plant
forms that we will Consider link the visual phenomena of mass and line with the
biological properties of growth form and habit.
Although plant form is wonderfully varied, it is possible to describe major
types, and each of these can have a particular role in planting Composition. These
types will be described with a view to their design potential rather than as a
rigorous horticultural Classification of plants. However, while authors in the
landscape architecture field, such as Florence Robinson (1940) and Theodore
Walker (1990), have often treated form as a purely visual property, its
horticultural role is at least as important to the success of plant Combinations.We
will highlight both the aesthetic potential of plant form and how it helps plants
grow together.
Habit and form are very much a part of the ecology of a species, and this can
also inform design.The Compact, dome—shaped medium sized shrub form that is
so useful for low—cost, large scale groundcover in towns is, in fact, an adaptation
to a natural habitat quite different from those urban Conditions. To find this
shape in nature we must go to the windiest places such as Coastal Cliffs or
exposed mountain sides. Here we will find shrubs like Hebe, Cistus, Olearia,
Convolvulus cneorum, Cotoneaster microphyllus and Coprosma repens. But a low
Compact dome shape is not the only way that plants Cope with persistent high
winds. The long, linear and very tough leaves of harakeke (Phormium tenax),
wharariki (Phormium cookianum), ti kouka (Cordyline australis) and nikau
(Rhopalostylis sapida) are all very resilient and remain undamaged in strongest
winds. Their natural strength is reflected in the use of harakeke and ti kouka as
a source of fibre.
Lastly, we should always keep it in mind that a plant’s inherited form can be
dramatically affected by environmental factors, including the presence of other
plants and especially light levels and wind exposure. For our descriptions of
form, we will assume average, favourable growing Conditions and a reasonably
sheltered but not Crowded location.
Prostrate and Carpeting Forms
PROSTRATE PLANTS A number of shrubs and perennial herbaceous plants
have a distinctly prostrate or flat spreading form.These include ground—hugging
Creeping species that spread by the layering, or rooting, of their prostrate stems
at intervals and that rarely produce ascending stems (for example, Fuchsia
procumbens, Grevillea X gaudichaudii, Convolvulus sabatius, Muehlenbeckia axillaris,
Hebe odora prostrate form, Hedera sp.). There are also a number of shrubs that
produce woody stems held above ground level but that constitute low,
horizontally spreading masses of foliage (Coprosma X kirkii, Grevillea lanigera ‘Mt.
Tamboritha’, funiperus horizontalis, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Prunus laurocerasus
‘Zabeliana’). With age, prostrate plants can often develop foliage gaps in the
middle, because their main growing points are distributed around the perimeter
of the Canopy. For this reason, they may need Cutting back or replanting after a
number of years.
CARPETING PLANTS By Carpeting plants we mean those with a neat, dense
Canopy of Constant height, Close to ground level (for example, Gazania sp.,
88 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 76 The spreading form of this Juniper
(juniperus sp.) provides a base to the white trunk of
these birches (Betula sp.) at the University of
Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand.
as
Plate 77 Prostrate dwarf shrubs such as this
Cotoneaster adpressus hug the ground and follow the
shape of whatever they cover (Askham Bryan
College,York, UK).
Plate 78 The hummock and dome forms of
herbaceous plants such as Liriope muscari and shrubs
such as Hebe rakaiensis and Viburnum davidii anchor
this gateway, reflect the curve of its arch and contrast
with its rectilinear outline (Bodnant, North Wales).
Pachysandra terminalis, Lamium maculatum, Scleranthus biflorus, Parahebe
catarractae). Many Carpeting plants are fast spreaders, increasing by means of
vigorous underground stems (see Chapter 8). The shoots of Carpeting plants are
mostly hidden by their leaves and the plant presents a dense plane of foliage that
follows the surface of the ground. As Carpeting plants decline in vigour with age,
many can be rejuvenated by Clipping them over, or ‘mowing’ them to near
ground level with a rotary Cutter or flail. In Europe and North America resilient
groundcovers like Hypericum calycinum are Commonly treated in this way.
Prostrate, and especially Carpeting, forms hug the ground surface and express,
rather than hide its miCro—topography. They can be used to emphasize detailed
ground modelling and their low stature makes them a successful foundation
allowing taller, upright plants to grow through to form striking plant forms and
tall specimens.
Hummock, Dome and Tussock Forms
Many low—growing plants develop by means of a gradually increasing rootstock
(see Chapter 8) rather than by vigorous, searching, propagating stems. They
form enlarging Clumps that, if planted as a monoculture, will eventually unite or
Visual Properties of Plants 89
Plate 79 Many trees ultimately develop a spreading
dome-like form if allowed to grow unhindered in an
open location and free from environmental stress.
This photograph shows a specimen of Moreton Bay
fig (Ficus macrophylla) with a canopy spread of more
than 40 metres. For scale, note the Norfolk Island
pines (Araucaria heterophylla) to the side of the photo
(Northland, New Zealand).
Plate 80 The unusually erect form of horoeka or
lancewood (Pseudopanax crassifolius) allows it to be
planted so close to this hotel unit that it grows
through the balcony rail (Christchurch, New
Zealand).
abut. These Clumps are often rounded in form and Create a tussock hummock or
domed mass Canopy.
H UMMOCK FORM The term hummock is useful to refer to Clump—forming
herbaceous plants and smaller shrubs, and dome to larger shrubs and trees that
have a similar shape of Canopy. Common examples of hummock form include
Geranium species and Nepetafaassenii) . A similar groundcovering hummock form
is typical of many sub—shrubs (plants with a woody stem base below herbaceous
growth that may die back in a Cold winter) and dwarf shrubs. These spread by
lateral growth of branches from the main stems or, in some Cases, propagate new
plants by the layering of these stems (for example Lavandula spica, Erica species
and the lapponicum rhododendrons).
DOME FORM This is a larger version of the shape of the hummock plants.
Perhaps the Classic domed shrub group is the shrubby veronica. In fact, this
shape is very Common among both trees and shrubs of all sizes in the New
Zealand flora because of its ability to withstand the severe winds in exposed
habitats that Characterize the islands’ Climate. Other familiar dome—shaped, low
or medium shrubs include Pachystegia insignis, Viburnum davidii, Cistus species,
Coleonema species, and some Brachyglottis species such as B. monroi, B. Dunedin
hybrids.
A domed, rounded form is perhaps the most frequent among larger, broadleaf
shrubs and trees. In the Case of trees, this dome is normally supported on a single
90 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
massive bole from which lateral branches arise. The Canopy of a shrub normally
develops from a number of main stems arising at, or Close to, ground level. A
dome is often the mature form of species that display an upright habit in juvenile
growth phases. In forest, the Canopy domes of tall trees are held high above the
ground because of suppression of the lower branches. In urban settings, where
the Crown has been raised to allow Circulation below, a similar shape can be seen.
An asymmetrical dome can result from Competition for light or exposure to
wind.
Among the trees with distinctly dome—shaped mature Canopies we find Acer
palmatum, Acer cappadocicum, Sorbus aria, Metrosideros excelsus, Vitex lucens and
pendulous species such as Salix babylonica and Pyrus salicifolia.
TUSSOCK FORM Also known as bunch form, this shape is Common among
monocotyledonous plants, including many grasses and sedges, such as some of
the fescues (for example, Festuca ovina, F glauca, F coxii), purple needlegrass
(Stipa pulchra) toetoe and pampas grass (Cortaderia sp.), snow tussocks
(Chionochloa sp.), rainbow tussock (Anemanthele lessoniana) and many sedges
(Carex spp. such as C. testacea and C. buchananii). The overall outline is similar
to a hummock, being rounded, but the foliage arises in a tight bunch from the
ground and arches outwards. In this respect, it is similar to the erect and arching
forms described later in this Chapter. The smaller cultivars of harakeke and
wharariki (New Zealand flax - Phormium tenax and P cookianum) and Astelia
species (bush lilies) Could be included here, being a bolder version of the grass
and sedge tussocks.
Hummock and dome forms are useful for their visual stability. They can be
used as anchors, balancing and stabilizing more lively and dramatic forms. They
have been traditionally used as ‘full stops’ at the end of a border or planting that
needs Containment or Conclusion. Because of their Compact Canopies, small
dome shrubs like Hidcote lavender and Spanish lavender form a good edging.
Tussocks are more ascending and therefore energetic in their visual Character.
These forms often leave small spaces between the plants in their natural growth
Communities and these niches are usually filled by smaller plants that benefit
from the partial shelter and shade between the larger plants. These forms have,
in many Cases, evolved in exposed environments, such as sub—alpine or Coastal,
and their Compact form is a response to the effects of wind. Some species (such
as many of the tussock habit plants) retain their form well in shaded or Crowded
situations while others (such as lavender) are drawn into a more irregular habit
if mixed Closely with other plants. The latter group should be planted with
sufficient space around them.
Erect or Ascending Form
Whereas domed, rounded trees and shrubs produce a high proportion of
spreading and low angled branches, erect, ascending form is Characterized by a
majority of vertical or sharp—angled main stems and branches. Erect shrubs are
often multi—stemmed with any side branches being Comparatively short and
wide—angled. This habit gives the plant an overall shape that is upright with a
strong Component of ascending line. The appearance can be rather stiff with the
mature Canopy held aloft. Examples of notably erect or ascending form include
Mahonia lomariifolia,Aralia elata, Cordyline terminalis, Plagianthus regius (juvenile
form), Musa acuminata and many bamboos. One of the most unusual ascending
growth forms is the single, slender erect stem of juvenile lancewoods (horoeka -
Pseudopanax crassifolius and P ferox).
Visual Properties of Plants 91
Plate 81 The Australian perennial giant
Doryanthes palmeri has such large linear,
striking leaves that it can dominate any
plant grouping.
As they mature, erect shrubs tend to either remain rather separate in their
appearance or, if they have a suckering habit, form dense thickets over large areas
(for example, banana and the stoloniferous bamboos). In the Case of some tree
species, the adult form is surprisingly different from that of the juvenile. Both
lancewoods and Plagianthus regius (ribbonwood or manatu) illustrate this.
Because of their ascending habit, erect forms can be a forceful, assertive element
in Composition and if Combined with other eye—Catching qualities such as bold
leaves, the plant can provide a focal point in the planting.
When planted en masse shrubs with erect form Create a small dense forest of
stems and these can be quite ‘leggy’ and bare as they are drawn up towards the
light. Under these Conditions, the plants lose many of their specimen qualities
and become mere space fillers at the Canopy level, leaving bare stems and bare
soil below. Even if used singly or in small groups, erect growing plants benefit
from Close planting of lower species to use the space left around the base, if it is
not needed for Circulation or hard landscape.
Erect, ascending form is found at a smaller scale among the foliage of some
herbaceous plants and sub—shrubs and is most effective when the leaves are large
or sword shaped. Examples include species and cultivars of Strelitzia, Doryanthes
Phormium,Agave,Yucca and Iris. Even the smaller yuccas and Phormium cultivars
can have such a striking appearance that they become the focus of a plant group,
despite their small stature.
Trees with narrow, ascending branches will be described later in the oval or
fastigiate form Categories.
Arching Form
Many shrubs make vigorous erect stems that, after their initial burst of growth,
produce lateral branches and arch over under their own weight.The overall shape
is like a sheaf of wheat with the stems gathered in at the base but sprayed out
towards the top. The initial vigour of the stems helps the plant ‘forage’ for light,
92 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
then arching and lateral branching produce a broad, elevated Canopy to exploit
this light. Examples of shrubs include Buddleja species, Cotoneaster salicifolia,
bamboos such as Arundinaria nitida and A. murieliae and shrub roses such as
Rosa ‘Nevada’ and R. ‘Canary Bird’.
The arching form is also Common at a smaller scale among herbaceous plants
where the stems or linear leaves adopt this Configuration. To some extent this
form overlaps with the tussock habit but examples that are more upright and
notably arching include Polygonatum multiflorum. Dierama pulcherrimum
Hemerocallis species, Arthropodium cirratum, and the Classic arching, vase shapes
of ferns such as Blechnum discolor, Polystichum vestitum and bromeliads such as
Aechmea and Billbergia species. Arching form is not Common among trees; they
generally produce sturdy branches that strengthen as they grow, rather than
leaning or drooping under their own increasing weight. Some aspects of the
arching habit are expressed in weeping trees such as Betula pendula ‘Youngii’.
Arching shrubs and herbs can play a similar, accent role to that of erect shrubs,
though often with a little less Contrast because they have a rather looser habit.
They are valuable as single specimens of all sizes or where a Canopy of foliage is
required at an elevated level leaving a space below. As with erect and tussock
forms, this space should not be left to bare earth and weeds but used either for
lower planting or for a different visual element such as pebble, paving, rock and
so on.
Palm Form
This form is, in some ways, similar to the arching habit described above but
distinguished by the Clear stem that can rise up to twenty or more metres. It is
found almost exclusively among the members of the palm family and tree ferns.
It Consists of a tall straight main stem or stems with all leaves arising in a rosette
from the single growing point at the stem tip. This gives various umbrella type
shapes that can be boldly sculptural and are usually striking. Some of the best
known palms for landscape work in warm temperate areas include Phoenix
Canariensis, Syagrus romanzofliana and Rhopalostylis sapida. Tree ferns include
Dicksonia and Cyathea. The Ethiopian banana Ensete ventricosum is a plant of a
different family that has a somewhat similar form. Similar palm—like forms are
also found among some species of Cordyline, the Strelitziaceae and the larger
Yucca.
Species with a palm habit have a big impact in planting because of their
statuesque, evocative form.They also Cast a light shade and many have Compact,
undemanding root systems that make them particularly good neighbours for
other plants. Others, including Dicksonia squarrosa (wheki), naturally spread in
dense Colonies, excluding other plants partly by the quantity, size and toughness
of their leaf or frond debris.
Succulents and Sculptural Form
Rather like palms and tree ferns, many succulents form a group of plants that
have a very distinctive range of form. This Could perhaps be described as
‘sculptural form’ because the plants have a singular strength of three-
dimensional shape that immediately makes them the focus of attention. Some of
the most striking are species like the fan aloe Aloe plicatilis, the spiral aloe A.
polyphylla, the dragon tree Dracaena draco and Agave attenuata.
Used singly and in small groups, they should be handled like sculpture.
Planted in large numbers, they Create a landscape wholly distinct from the
Visual Properties of Plants 93
Plate 83 Some succulents display strongly
sculptural form, such as these at Huntingdon
Botanic Gardens, California.
Plate 82 Palm form is seen not only in members of
the Palmae, but also in plants such as this toi or
mountain cabbage tree (Cordyline indivisa), seen here
in its natural habitat of mountain forests at Te
Urewera, New Zealand.
everyday human surroundings, and that brings an exhilarating atmosphere of the
arid, often hostile, environments from which they originate.
Oval Upright Form
A number of shrubs and trees have a generally erect habit of growth but a Crown
that also spreads laterally and, unlike erect and arching forms, is Consistently
furnished with side branches and foliage to near ground level. The form that
results is oval or egg—shaped. It is seen more often in selected cultivars than in
wild species, largely because an oval upright form is desirable in many urban and
garden locations where lateral space is restricted. Examples include Carpinus
betulus ‘Fastigiata’, Acer platanoides ‘Columnare’, Malus tschonoskii, and young
and early mature plants of Pittosporum tenuifolium and Hoheria sexstylosa. This
shape is less Common among shrubs than trees mainly because shrubs, being
generally multi—stemmed, take on a broader habit.
Oval form brings a rising element to Composition. It has some of the qualities
of erect form but, because of its more rounded outline, it is more Contained, and
less straining and soaring than the spires and Columns of fastigiate forms. Oval
form can punctuate less regular masses and, like the related dome shape, can
make a Clear stop to a run of mixed planting. The Canopy of an oval upright tree
or shrub is less Closely associated with the ground than the hemispherical dome,
so it may need anchoring with a lower dome or other planting with visual weight.
94 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 84 Lophostemon confertus, the Brisbane box, is Plate 85 The distinctive conic form of Norfolk
an example of a tree with an oval upright form. Its Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla) provides a strong
restricted spread makes it convenient for planting contrast to the horizontal masses of the building and
next to roads, especially those that carry high the gentle sweep of the ground at Auckland airport,
vehicles (Mayoral Drive, Auckland, New Zealand). New Zealand.
Conical Form
Conical form is frequent among Conifers but is also found in some ‘broadleaf’
species. A Conical Crown is generally tall and tapers from the base to a sharp apex.
It is the product of a regular branching habit. A single straight bole gives rise to
a Comparatively larger number of first order branches (those arising directly from
the bole) and these are regularly arranged in whorls or in a spiral with regular
vertical intervals between nodes. In many Cases, the branches are nearly
horizontal and thus the Cone is made up of horizontal tiers of diminishing
diameter towards the top of the Crown. Good examples of Conical trees are Picea
omorika, Pseudotsuga menziesii, Sequoiadendron giganteum, young trees of Agathis
australis and Dacrycarpus dacrydioides and Corylus colurna.
The effect of Conical form is similar to that of oval and erect forms. The main
difference lies in the sometimes sharply pointed Crown. This gives it more
dynamic, ascending qualities, although the effect can be austere. A strongly
Conical form can make a striking accent in planting Composition. When whole
forests are Composed of Conical, spire—shaped trees, the effect can be quite
extraordinary. The groves of giant redwood (Sequoiadendron giganteum) in the
American Sierra Nevada and the old growth forests of Californian Coastal
redwood (Sequoia sempervirens) both have serene, Cathedral—like qualities due to
the rising Crowns of the younger trees, the massive tall trunks and the sheer scale
of the spaces Created.
Fastigiate and Columnar Forms
The narrowest of upright Crowns are normally referred to as fastigiate or
Columnar. This form is rare in the wild state and most fastigiate trees and shrubs
are selected Clones. The Crown of fastigiate trees is usually made up of many
short, ascending branches that form a dense, well—defined Crown.When this habit
produces a narrow Cylindrical shape it is often referred to as Columnar. The top
may be more or less pointed (as in funiperus ‘Skyrocket’) or flattened (as in
Libocedrus decurrens and young Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’). Examples of shrubs
with a fastigiate Canopy are less Common than trees, but include funiperus
communis ‘Hibernica’, and }. ‘Skyrocket’. The best known of fastigiate trees
Visual Properties of Plants 95
Plate 86 Trees like Lombardy poplar have a
narrowly fastigiate or columnar form. They were
used in the Pacific Gateway Project in San Francisco
because this form can be accommodated in the
narrow spaces between freeway ramps.
Plate 87 The ascending flower raceme of mullein
(Verbascum) has, on a smaller scale, a similar effect to a
fastigiate or columnar tree canopy (Hagen, Germany).
include Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), incense Cedar (Libocedrus
decurrens) and Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra ‘Italica’).
Fastigiate form has an uncompromising visual Character and can easily be the
dominant element in a plant group. Trees such as rewarewa (Knightia excelsa),
Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra ‘Italica’) and Italian Cypress (Cupressus
sempervirens) appear like exclamation marks among other vegetation. They rise
out of the mass in a dramatic way. The smaller the number of fastigiate trees the
more they draw attention to themselves so, to be highlights or foci of a scene,
their numbers should be restricted. On the other hand, there are landscapes
where large numbers of fastigiate trees are Common and give the regional
landscape much of its distinctive Character. These include some of the
Mediterranean lands, where Italian Cypress is Characteristic, and the dry hill
Country of eastern New Zealand, especially around Hawke’s Bay where
Lombardy, as well as other erect growing poplars, have been extensively planted
for land stability.
Lombardy poplar, because of its rapid growth and narrow Crown, has been
thoroughly exploited as an ‘instant’ screen tree, particularly in urban areas where
space for lateral spread is restricted. Unfortunately, a single row does not provide
a very good screen, especially in winter, as it has a rather thin Crown and foliage.
The visual effect of a ‘screen’ of Lombardy poplars, regardless of spacing, is like
a rank of stiffly upright sentries standing guard over an ugly installation - it draws
attention to what it screens.
In our discussion of fastigiate form, we should include a number of shrubs and
herbaceous plants that have a distinctive vertical flower spike or raceme.
Examples of these include Yucca recurvifolia, Acanthus mollis and Verbascum
nigrum. They make a good temporary accent or emphasis within ornamental
planting.
96 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 88 Tabulate form is seen in the
spreading branches of trees such as this young
deodar (Cedrus deodara) and Japanese maple
(Acer palmatum) which give a serene quality to
this composition in Sheffield Botanical
Gardens, UK.
Tabulate and Level Spreading Form
Many trees and shrubs have habits of branching in which foliage is held in
horizontal layers. In some species and cultivars this is particularly well developed
and Creates distinctive horizontal ‘tables’ of foliage. Such trees include Cedrus
libani and Acerjaponicum ‘Aureum’.The effect may be accentuated by a display
of eye—Catching flowers on the tabulate layers of shrubs such as Cornus kousa and
Viburnum plicatum ‘Mariesii’.
Some trees and shrubs have noticeably spreading branching patterns and a
flattened silhouette without the separate layering of foliage.The silk tree, Albizia
julibrissin, and a number of the tropical leguminous trees are examples of this
spreading, umbelliferous form.
Tabulate and spreading forms give trees and shrubs a stable quality, but with
lightness rather than weight in Character, because the tiers of foliage are held high
and admit light and air between the branChes.The Contrast between tabulate and
fastigiate Crowns can be spectacular. The distinct form can be easily lost if these
plants are associated Closely with others and is most effective if the tabulate trees
or shrubs are allowed sufficient space to extend their Canopies to the full.
Open Irregular Form
In the descriptions above species have been Chosen that show the clearest
expression of a particular type of form. Many plants, especially when growing in
the wild, only approximate to these types due to environmental factors and can
be more or less irregular in form as a result of environmental factors.
There are some species that inherit rather than acquire what we will describe as
open irregular form.Their overall shape is irregular and unpredictable, the Crown
does not produce a well—defined outline nor a dense, leafy surface. The most
distinctive feature of such plants is often their strong growing extension shoots
that thrust out in various directions, Carrying with them smaller side branches and
Clusters of foliage but leaving Considerable space between them.These gaps in the
Canopy are exploited by other plants in their search for light, and so open irregular
plants tend to be gregarious in their Character, growing well among other species
to form a mixed Canopy. Trees include Populus alba, Sorbus ‘Embley’ and Prunus X
Visual Properties of Plants 97
yedoensis. Shrubs with this kind of form include Pyracantha rogersiana, Hippophae
rhamnoides, Coriaria arborea and Clianthus puniceus.
Trained Form
Not only do plants grow spontaneously into a wide range of forms, but many
species lend themselves to the sculpting of quite unnatural shapes by training,
trimming and Clipping.
The most Common green sculpture is the Clipped hedge. In addition to its
functional purpose, a formal hedge brings an element of Control and precision to
visual Composition that Cannot otherwise be achieved with vegetation. The
elementary form of the rectilinear slab can be Clipped from a tree or shrub and can
be elaborated with variations in height and width. The whole slab or Clipped ‘box’
may be raised above the ground as in the traditional pleaching of trees such as lime
(Tilia sp.) and hornbeam (Carpinus betulus). Other angles and shapes can be Created,
such as Castellations or Curves in profile or in plan. A memorable example is the
serpentine beech hedges (Fagus sylvatica) at Chatsworth, Derbyshire, England.
The most Curious shapes are those Created by topiary - a practice that dates
from Roman gardens. This includes the sculpting of birds and other animals as
well as abstract geometric shapes out of bushes of yew (Taxus baccata), box (Buxus
sempervirens), or Cypress (Cupressus sp.). Traditional topiary plays an important
role in historic garden management and sometimes as an occasional feature in
prestige planting schemes for which a generous maintenance budget is available.
Suitable species for Clipping are those that respond to frequent light pruning
by producing dense twiggy growth at an even rate over the whole Canopy. This
allows the Creation of an even surface to the desired shapes. Smaller leaved
species are ideal because the damage Caused to the leaves themselves is less
noticeable and evergreens are preferable because of their ability to retain the
sculpted surface throughout the year. Traditional hedging and topiary species
include Taxus baccata, Buxus sempervirens, Lonicera nitida, Fagus sylvatica, Ilex
aquifolium, Cupressus sempervirens and C. macrocarpa, and Laurus nobilis. Less well
known, but very successful, species for Close Clipping include Podocarpus totara,
Corokia X virgata, Coprosma repens and Coprosma parviflora.
Other traditional practices including pleaching, and the training of fruit trees
as a Cordon, espalier, fan and palmette.Vine Crops such as hops, grape and kiwi
Plate 89 Trained and clipped form can be treated Plate 90 The topiary at Levens Hall, Cumbria,
as sculpture in the landscape.Yew are being clipped UK, creates an intriguing interplay of form and
to form green waves in this sunken ‘dry dock’ garden space.
at Thames Barrier Park in London.
98 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
fruit are grown Commercially by training on wires and pergola type supports.
Many of these offer interesting possibilities for design interpretation using either
the same species, or ornamental cultivars, or adapting the training method to
different species and modified structures.
Because of its precision, trained or Clipped forms introduce a strong sense of
imposed order to composition.They can give Cool regularity to Contrast with the
abundance and unpredictability of free growing vegetation.
Line and Pattern
Line is Closely related to form, being the two—dimensional effect of edges.To this
extent, it is an abstraction from the three—dimensional reality. The edges that
Create line can be the edges of a whole plant mass (its silhouette), or of its
branches, stems, leaves, or petals, or the edges between different materials or
Colours and between light and shadow falling on the surfaces of plants.
Composite patterns of line are formed on the surfaces of things and, although
these surfaces may be Curved or bent, they can be perceived from one viewing
point as if they were on a two—dimensional plane. A pattern of lines Can, by
means of perspective, Convey information about the three—dimensional shape of
objects but this requires interpretation of the two—dimensional pattern based on
experience of moving through space.
The essence of line is direction, being the result of the movement of a point in
space. In visual Composition, the primary effect of line is to lead our eyes and
direct our attention. Although we do not necessarily follow each line faithfully to
its end, our vision will nevertheless tend to move backwards and forwards along
the stronger lines and follow the compounded direction of weaker and shorter
lines. Our attention will tend to rest at the places where lines Converge. So, line
can be used to direct the visual exploration of a scene.
Different directions of line, as found in different patterns and in different
-
Plate 91 This planting composition depends for
much of its impact on the form of the trees and
shrubs. The tabulate branches of Viburnum plicatum
‘Lanarth’ are emphasized by brilliant white flower
heads and give a striking contrast to the dark
fastigiate yew (Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’) and the
ascending branches of Nothofagus dombeyi in the
background. These strongly expressed forms are set
within a softly flowing mass of informal foliage that
saves the composition from stiffiiess (Bodnant,
Wales).
Plate 92 Line can be a dominant element in
planting composition especially when we can see the
branch and stem outlines or the silhouettes of plants.
This avenue of plane trees near Napier, New
Zealand, demonstrates the impact of line and outline
in composition. Note that it is through line that we
recognize perspective, and that this perspective gives
avenues their dramatic quality.
Visual Properties of Plants 99
Plate 93 The ascending outlines of these fastigiate
junipers (juniperus ‘Sky Rocket’) punctuate and
regulate the soft billowing masses of roses and herbs
below (The garden of old roses, Castle Howard,
Yorkshire, UK).
Plate 94 Vertical line is also common in the _ . . _ .
ascending linear leaves of monocotyledons such as
Iris and rushes (juncus), here contrasting with the Plate 95 Pendulous line is found in the hanging
horizontal slab of the stone bridge at Wisley, Surrey, branches of weeping willow (Salix ‘Chrysocoma’) over
UK. the River Avon, Christchurch, New Zealand.
plants, have intrinsic aesthetic qualities that can be deliberately exploited in
planting Composition.
Ascending Line
Ascending or vertical line is expressed in the outlines of plants with Columnar or
fastigiate shapes (e.g. funiperus communis ‘Hibernica’ and Cupressus sempervirens),
in the trunks of strong growing trees (e.g. Poplar and Betula species, Pseudopanax
crassifolius and many palms), in the vigorous stems of shrubs and herbaceous
plants (e.g. Perovskia atriplicifolia and hard—pruned Cornus alba and Rubus
cockburnianus), in the shapes of flower spikes (e.g. Furcraeafoetida, Puya alpestris,
Verbascum nigrum and Stachys lanata) and in the ‘sword’ shaped leaves of some
monocotyledons (e.g. Astelia chathamica, Typha australis and Crocosmia paniculata).
The Character of ascending line is assertive and emphatic and can be stately or
grand if of sufficient scale. Ascending line is prominent because it opposes the
direction of gravity.Yet, a vertical line by itself exists in a state of tenuous balance
and the least movement in any lateral direction will offset its alignment and
release its Considerable potential energy. This sense of delicate balance gives an
air of achievement to strongly expressed vertical line, but if it is used without
discretion and order, it can be restless and overbearing.
100 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Pendulous Line
Pendulous or descending line is found in the branches of weeping trees (such as
Salix babylonica, Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’ and Betula pendula ‘Tristis’), in shrubs
with trailing and hanging stems (such as Rosmarinus oflicinalis ‘Prostratus’, Buddleja
alternifolia, and Myrsine divaricata), and in plants with hanging leaves or flowers
(such as Viburnum rhytidophyllum, l/Wsteria sp., Garrya elliptica and Carex pendula).
Pendulous line is characteristically restful, bringing a peacefulness to the
scene. This is because it suggests some letting go of the struggle with gravity -
weeping branches hang in a position of minimum effort. Perhaps because there
is less resistance, less vitality in their habit, pendulous plants can reflect a
melancholy mood that might be particularly strongly felt if it is Combined with
sombre, dark Colours. The atmosphere Created by the delicate, sparkling foliage
of Betula pendula ‘Tristis’ or the golden yellow twigs and wispy foliage of Salix X
sepulcralis chrysochoma is lively while still gentle. Picea breweriana can suggest very
different moods; in grey mists it may have a mournful aspect, in sunlight it can
glisten like a green Cascade.
Weeping foliage or branches draw our attention down to the ground and this can
give a sense of weight, so the presence of a Contrasting light, lively element, such
as water, below the Canopy is the perfect Complement to a weeping tree or shrub.
There is also an affinity between the Character of water and the flowing, Cascading
forms of weeping trees, hence the traditional association between the two.
Horizontal Line
Horizontal line is seen in spreading branches and foliage (such as in Albizia
julibrissin, Coprosma parviflora Cedrus libani, Cornus kousa and Viburnum plicatum
‘Mariesii’), along the tops of Clipped hedges, in the browsing line that forms the
base of tree Canopies in grazed parkland pasture, and in level ground surfaces
articulated by grass or groundcover.
This direction line represents a state of stability. Its Character is passive, like a
reclining figure, and it Contains little potential energy and so implies little
movement or effort. Because of its visual stability, planting with strong horizontal
line can act as a foundation that will support the more active elements of
I "if I
l S. rx.\..A\:ll
Plate 96 The tabulate branching cedar of Lebanon Plate 97 Dynamic diagonals are strongly expressed
(Cedrus libani) produces a strong horizontal in the linear leaves of New Zealand flax (Phormium
component and reflects the lines of the brickwork tenax), seen here in its natural wetland habitat on a
pattern and building eaves (Reigate, Surrey, UK). South Island lake margin. It contrasts dramatically
with the pendulous line of the rimu foliage behind.
Visual Properties of Plants 101
Plate 98 Much of the line found in nature is lively Plate 99 Line can be crucial to composition: the
and more or less irregular in character. The stems crossing of horizontal and vertical lines is one of the
and branches in this picture express both inherent most dominant aspects of this view (Bodnant,
patterns of growth and the influence of an exposed Wales).
environment (coastal forest at Kohi Point, New
Zealand). The simple vertical line of the mamaku
tree fern provides a contrast.
Composition. Indeed, without these to lift it the planting can appear featureless
and lifeless. This is why the stable simplicity of a Clipped hedge is most effective
when it acts as a foundation or background to exuberant planting or other
features, but rather severe or dismal when only for the sake of its own geometry.
Diagonal Line
Diagonal line is seen in sharply rising branches found occasionally in many trees
and shrubs but more Consistently in a few species and cultivars such as Prunus
‘Kanzan’ and Sorbus sargentiana. The stiff linear leaves of some monocotyledons
are held at a strong diagonal although they are usually spread over a range of
angles (examples include Furcraea selloa, Phormium tenax ‘Goliath’, Yucca gloriosa
and palms such as Rhopalostylis sapida).
Diagonal line is energetic, dynamic and exciting. It expresses tension and high
potential energy. It is thrust out against gravity, moving upwards and forwards
and this forceful quality makes it a powerful element in Composition that is seen
at its most effective when used in Contrast to more stable elements. Too many
strong diagonals would Cause disintegration of the Composition and a solid
foundation is needed to support the dynamic nature and eye—Catching qualities
of diagonal line.
The Quality of Line
Because the medium of design that we work with is living vegetation, it is rare to
find pure line direction except where the maintenance has imposed simple and
geometrical form on planting. Geometric line that is quite straight or evenly
Curved is perceived as ‘formal’ and Controlled. It demonstrates Conscious intent
rather than the forces of nature.The majority of form and line found in nature,
although directional qualities are Clearly discernible, is more varied and irregular
in its Character.
A meandering or irregular line, whatever its overall direction, can have a
spontaneous and playful quality and this is expressed in the darting, weaving
102 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 100 The fine, even texture of the Libertia
peregrinans (miikoikoi) is notable in this simple
planting, and reflects the fine textured surface finish of
the concrete wall (University of Canterbury, New
Zealand).
Plate 102 The bold foliage of Acanthus draws
attention to the steps and balustrade and harmonizes
with the similar, coarse texture of the stone work.
Plate 101 Grasses and ti kouka (cabbage tree) both
have a fine visual texture that add to the feeling of
spaciousness in this New Zealand courtyard.
Plate 104 The elegant sculptural form and bold texture of Agave
attenuata stand out in this planting of succulents. Also important are
the consistency of line and the accenting of the vertical flower spikes
of aloe in the foreground (The Sunken Garden, Napier, New
Zealand).
Plate 103 This plant grouping at Newby Hall, NorthYorkshire,
UK, combines a wide range of textures and forms. Strong leaf form,
dynamic line and textural contrasts create an eye-catching effect.
Visual Properties of Plants 103
growth of branches and twigs as they seek the light. Indeed, some cultivars
have been selected specifically for their unusually twisted and picturesque
branch habit (for example, Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’ and Corylus avellana
‘Contorta’).
Texture
Plant texture can be defined as the visual roughness or smoothness of any part
of the plant. It is akin to the texture of a painting, the grain of a photograph or
the Consistency of materials such as fabric, stone, brick or wood. Texture is a
function of the scale of differentiation and division within a material. It may be
the result of a pattern of lines but, if so, it is determined only by the scale of the
pattern and not by the direction of the lines. A plant is Commonly referred to as
having Coarse, fine or medium texture.
Texture, like form, depends on viewing distance. When seen from a moderate
distance a plant’s visual texture is the result of the size and shape of its leaves and
twigs.The larger the leaves and the more stout the twigs, the coarser the texture.The
petiole also affects texture because a long and flexible petiole allows more movement
of individual leaves in a breeze and this tends to break up the outlines of the leaves
and give the foliage a softer appearance (such as the many species of poplar).
If we move far enough away the visual effect of individual leaves and twigs will
be lost and the Canopy will appear to be made up of Clusters or sprays of foliage.
In this Case it will be the size and arrangement of these Clusters or branches that
determines texture. Plants made up of large, Clearly differentiated branches will
appear more Coarsely textured. If the viewing distance is so great that the only
visible differentiation of vegetation is between whole plants or between Clumps
of trees or shrubs, texture will depend on the spacing of individual shrubs and
trees or Clumps. Widely spaced Clumps and separate Canopies will give the
landscape a coarser grain than even, interlocking Canopies, which will appear
more finely textured.
Under the Closest inspection, it will be not the Combined mass of foliage or
stems that give texture but the surface of the leaves and bark. Some species have
Coarse textured leaf surfaces (e.g. Rosa rugosa, Viburnum rhytidophyllum and
Elatotema rugosum) and some have rough bark (e.g. Quercus suber Podocarpus
totara and Sequoia sempervirens) while others have particularly smooth leaves (e.g.
Hymenosporum flavum, Corynocarpus laevigatus, Fatsia japonica) or smooth bark
(e.g. Fagus sylvatica).
Texture, like form and line, has specific visual effects and plays an important
role in Composition. In the discussion that follows, we will Concentrate on the
textural effects of plants viewed from medium distances (about 2-20 metres)
because it is from these distances that the detailed Composition of most
ornamental planting is fully appreciated.
Fine Texture
The finest textured plants are those with the smallest leaves or leaflets and the
finest, most Closely packed twigs.These include most species of Erica, the small-
leafed Coprosma and Dracophyllum species, many Genista and Cytisus and many
grasses, rushes and sedges. A number of trees also have Comparatively fine
texture, for example Taxus bacatta, Cupressus species and Pinus, especially those
with slender needles such as Pinus patula and I? coulteri. Fine—textured
broadleaved trees include Betula pendula, Pittosporum tenuifolium ‘Silver Sheen’
and Sophora microphylla.
104 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Fine—textured plants tend to be easy to look at, that is, relaxing rather than
stimulating. They can give the impression of being at a greater distance than
Coarse—textured plants and are said to recede in the field of vision. As a result, a
high proportion of fine—textured plants increases the sense of spaciousness within
an enclosure, rather like the effect of fine—textured or small—patterned wallpaper
in a room.Their Character is light and airy, expansive and soft.
A further effect of fine—textured foliage is that the overall outline and form of
the plant is strongly expressed and easily traced. The shape of the whole plant
will usually dominate the shapes of individual leaves and stems. For this reason
fine—textured plants are valuable in formal Composition where strict Control of
pattern is the essence of design. Here, the outlines of planted areas, the planting
of geometric patterns and the shaping of hedges and Clipped specimens are all
expressed with the greatest precision by fine—textured species. In Classical formal
gardens the plants used were yew (Taxus bacatta) and box (Buxus sempervirens)
but there are many more suitable plants and some of these are listed on p. 97.
Another major Component of pattern making in formal landscapes is the lawn.
The fine, even texture of mown grass plays a similar role to yew and box, but on
the ground plane.
Coarse Texture
The largest leaves and the thickest twigs have the coarsest, or boldest, visual
texture. These include the huge rough leaves of Gunnera manicata which can be
up to 2 metres across, the broad, lobed foliage of Rheum alexandre and
Peltiphyllum peltatum. Other species with bold foliage and Coarse texture include
trees such as Catalpa bignonioides,Meryta sinclairii and Acer macrophyllum, shrubs
such as Rhododendron sinogrande and Fatsiajaponica, and herbaceous plants such
as Myosotidium hortensia, Bergenia cordifolia and Cynara cardunculus. In winter, the
sturdy stems of Aralia elata or Coppiced shoots of trees such as Catalpa and
Paulownia tomentosa provide Coarse texture among the deciduous plants.
Plants with bold foliage and stems are, primarily, attention grabbers, perhaps
because the form and detail of their foliage is Clearly visible from a distance,
perhaps simply because of their size. Indeed the shapes of individual leaves tend
to break up the outline of the plant and distract attention from overall form. In
this Case, the plant’s qualities of line arise from the edges of leaves and twigs
rather than from the mass of the Canopy.
The boldness of Coarse—textured plants makes them appear to advance in the
field of vision. This effect can be employed to increase the sense of depth in
planting Composition if Coarse textures are placed in the foreground and finer
textures kept mainly to the background. In a Confined area, however, too much
bold, advancing foliage can Create a claustrophobic atmosphere, so Care is
needed when using Coarse texture in small spaces.
The large leaves of Coarse—textured plants throw big shadows and Create
striking patterns of light and shade. If the plant has glossy leaves - puka (Meryta
sinclairii) for example - areas of deep shade Contrast strongly with the reflected
light and this adds to the visual impact of bold foliage and helps make it a fine
specimen plant. Coarse—textured specimens Create an accent or emphasis within
a Composition, particularly if bold foliage is Combined with ascending line (for
example, Phormium tenax and Agave sp.). With their eye—Catching Character,
accent plants such as these become a visual goal and can provide markers to
identify key locations within a Composition.
In addition to the energetic qualities of Coarse—textured plants, their
substantial foliage and sturdy stems give them visual weight and solidity. This
Visual Properties of Plants 105
allows them to act as ‘anchor’ plants in Composition, the role of which is to
stabilize or ‘ground’ the more insubstantial, fine—textured plants. The most
effective anchors Combine Coarse texture with the stability of domed, hummock
or prostrate habit. Viburnum davidii and Fatsia japonica are good examples,
Bergenia cordifolia with its spreading habit, is often used as a low edging or
sometimes as a solid foundation to taller planting. Hedera canariensis, H. colchica,
Brunnera macrophylla and many hostas can also Create a Coarse textured Carpet.
They do this best when there is a Contrast in texture between the weighty lower
layer and the higher Canopies that it supports. Thus Bergenia is successful as an
edging to mixed foliage and flower borders and the excellent groundcovering
properties of Hedera help it to Create a firm visual foundation that will support
and unite areas of taller more varied planting.
Medium Texture
Between the textural extremes of plants such as Gunnera manicata and Erica
arborea there are many that can be described as of medium texture. Even among
these, noticeable Contrast can be achieved between relatively fine and relatively
Coarse texture. The starkest Contrasts are not always the most effective and some
linkage to bridge the gap between the coarsest and the finest foliage will generally
help a Composition. Such intermediate textures allow our eyes to absorb the
range more easily by making a progression rather than too sudden a variation.
Colour
The development of modern Colour theory began in a systematic way with
Goethe’s Theory of Colours (1840). Certain scientific principles are generally
accepted although some aspects of the perception of Colour remain enigmatic.
We will not attempt a full explanation of Colour theory but confine ourselves to
principles of most practical use to the planting designer.
As Michael Lancaster (1984) reminded us, ‘Colour is light’. Differences in
Colour are differences in the properties of light, mainly wavelength, amplitude
and energy. These differences are Caused both by the nature of the light source
and the reflection, refraction and absorption of the light before it reaches the
observer’s eye. The Colour of light can be described in terms of its three
fundamental qualities: hue, value/tone and saturation.
Hue
Hue is the quality that is popularly referred to as Colour, that is, whether an
object appears red, blue or yellow and so on, and is determined by the
wavelength of the light.The natural spectrum is conventionally perceived to have
seven hues: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet although on Close
inspection each is seen to grade Continuously into its neighbours through
intermediate hues. The hues of the spectrum are as pure as can be observed
within the Earth’s atmosphere because they arise from the refraction of the sun’s
light rather than from absorption by pigments.
The Colours of plants and other natural materials are the result of absorption
by pigments Contained in these materials. The wavelengths of light that are not
absorbed are reflected back from the surface and nearly always Contain a mixture
of hues. Plant Colours are also modified by the other two qualities of value and
saturation.
106 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 105 The red borders at Hidcote Manor,
Gloucestershire, UK, show the powerful qualities of
the colours red and orange. These colours are unusual
in cool temperate climates (see colour section).
Plate 107 Pink at a business and
industry park, San Luis Obispo,
California (see colour section).
Plate 106 Compare the effect of the cool blues and
greens in this planting, also at Hidcote Manor, with
the hot colours of the red borders (see colour section).
Value
Value, often referred to as ‘tone’, is the quantity or ‘luminosity’ of the light
reflected back from a Coloured surface. This is most easily understood as the
lightness or darkness of the Colour. A black and white photograph shows the
differences only of value and not of hue or saturation; it is therefore a study in
‘tone’.The brightest, most reflective surfaces have a high value or light ‘tone’ and
the dimmest, or least reflective have a low value or dark ‘tone’.
If we Consider the possible variation in tone of a single hue - say red - we
notice that if the red pigment is diluted with white (that is, one reflecting all hues
equally) the total quantity of light reflected is greater, the red is a paler tone and
its value is higher. As more white pigment is added, the red pigment becomes less
perceptible and the Colour would eventually become almost pure white.
Conversely, if the red pigment is mixed with black (one absorbing all hues
equally) the total quantity of light reflected is less and the Colour becomes a
darker tone, its value is reduced. As increasing proportions of black pigment are
added, almost all red light would eventually be absorbed and the Colour would
become indistinguishable from black.
It is interesting to note that some hues are intrinsically paler in tone than
others, having a greater luminosity or higher value; the palest is yellow.
Visual Properties of Plants 107
The values or tones of Colour seen in the landscape depend on the
pigmentation of materials but also on the amount of light available. In areas of
shadow or as dusk approaches all tones will be darker and the apparent
difference between tones will be reduced because of the reduction in the
reflected light.
Saturation
Given the same hue and a Constant value, variation in Colour Could still be
perceived. This would be a variation in the ‘saturation’ of the hue, that is, in the
degree of redness or blueness of the Colour. Saturation gives us a measure of
relative Colourfulness. A bright red and a dull red may have the same value but the
bright red will be distinguished by its greater saturation. The spectral hues are
pure, fully saturated Colours, but the majority of Colours we see in nature are more
or less muted, or dull. In these Colours, the pure hue is muted with a proportion
of greyness of the same value as the pure hue. This reduction in saturation Could
be pictured as the red hue in a Colour photograph gradually fading to the grey of
identical value that would represent it in a black and white photograph.
Terminology in Colour theory can at times be ambiguous or Confusing.
Saturation is also known variously as intensity, purity and Chroma. The term
saturation might be preferred because it suggests the origin of this quality of
Colour: saturation is the proportion of reflected light that is made up of the hue
in question. In the Case of a Coloured object this results from the degree of
saturation of the surface of the object by the pigment.
Ambiguity can also arise from the use of the word tone. It has been used to
describe degrees of saturation as in the expression ‘to tone down a Colour’. It is
more Commonly understood, however, to refer to the quality of lightness or
darkness, to distinguish tints and shades: thus, tone is taken as synonymous with
value.
The three qualities or dimensions of Colour: hue, value and saturation, allow
us to fully describe any Colour. For example, a dark, dull, red or a pale, bright,
green.They also help us to understand the visual effects of Colour and to employ
these with awareness in design.
Colour Perception
The actual Colour observed, that is, the Characteristics of the light reflected from
an object, depend on the light source and, if this is the sun, on the weather. For
example, in the soft bluish light of humid, Cool temperate Climates, pale and
muted Colours can be fully appreciated and intense, saturated, vibrant Colour can
appear garish. By Contrast in the stronger sunlight of lower latitudes, especially
where air quality is Clear, subtleties of pastel shades are lost and it is the
saturated, brilliant, Colours that are seen at their best. Furthermore, no Colour
exists in isolation. The perception of Colours is greatly influenced by their
Context. ‘Colour behaviour is relative’ explains garden designer Penelope
Hobhouse (1985) ‘depending on neighbouring Colours and the quality of light’.
She describes the phenomenon of simultaneous Contrast:
Juxtaposing two hues has the optical effect of exaggerating the difference
between them and ‘driving them further apart’. Each Colour appears to be
tinged with the Complementary of its neighbour; paired Complementaries
seem more brilliant. The other two dimensions, value and intensity
[saturation], further affect the apparent Changes in the pairs of pure hues.
108 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
The vast majority of natural objects, including plants, possess a mixture of hues,
a range of value and varying degrees of saturation. Because of the Complexity of
Colour, it is unwise to attempt to draw up rules for its use in design. A number
of aesthetic effects, however, can be identified and these will influence the Choice
and Combination of Colours in planting.
Colour Effects
It is mostly accepted that Colour hues produce reasonably predictable effects on
the observer (Birren 1978). Indeed, the meaning of Colour is reliable enough to
have been used as an effective measure of exploring personality, as in the Liischer
Colour test (Scott, trans. 1970).Thus, Colour hues can be understood as aesthetic
materials, rather like different sculptural media or different paving materials.
What follows is a summary of some of their main Characteristics.
0 Red is the hottest Colour. It is energetic and powerful, often dramatic and
can be exciting or even alarming. Because of its energy it is advancing and
is perceived instantly, even when present in small patches among other hues.
0 Orange is also warm and advancing. It is lively and vital, possessing some of
the energetic quality of red but tempered by the yellow it Contains.
0 Yellow is warm but without the passion of red. It is stimulating but gentle
and tends to advance when Combined with recessive hues. It has a Clear,
fresh and Cheerful Character.
0 Green is a neutral Colour in many ways. It is neither warm nor Cool, neither
receding nor advancing. It is soothing and balancing, but also stimulating.
Green light is the most easily focused by the eye and so to look at green
objects requires the least effort by the ocular muscles. Green allows the
sharpest distinction of Contour and outline.
0 Blue is the Coolest hue and the most recessive in our field of vision. It is
Calming and serene but also expansive and inspiring. It can be airy and even
ethereal.
O Indigo and violet Contain both blue and red. Like blue, they are Cool and
receding but less so than pure blue.The power of red gives them an uplifting
quality and they can be quite mysterious.
0 White is the equal Combination of all the hues of the spectrum. It is neutral,
favouring none of its Composite parts; it is neither advancing nor receding
and neither warm nor Cool but, because a pure white surface would reflect
all the incident light, it takes on the qualities of that light. A white flower
would appear warm and advancing in the golden or red light of sunrise and
sunset, but Cool and receding in blue twilight.
Intermediate and mixed hues have Combined qualities according to their
Composition and hues mixed with white to produce tints show a moderation or
refinement of the qualities of the pure hue.
The effects of Colour depend on value and saturation as well as hue. Saturated
Colours and dark shades tend to advance, like warm hues, whereas dull Colours
and pale tints tend to recede, along with Cool hues. So dull, pale and Cool Colours
provide good backgrounds while saturated, warm and dark Colours make
highlights. Dark shades, rather like Coarse textures, are Comparatively heavy in
their Character and so anchor or stabilize large areas of pale tints and Cool,
recessive Colours that might otherwise appear insubstantial and floating.
Warm, saturated Colours, because of their intensity and energy, tend to distract
attention from form or texture and so dominate Composition. An example of this
Visual Properties of Plants 109
is the intense red of the Common field poppy that, especially when exaggerated
by juxtaposition with Complementary green foliage, can make the flowers appear
disembodied and formless, mere splashes of Colour. The outline and size of the
poppy flowers and their exact location in space are difficult to establish under
these Conditions.
Visual Energy
We have seen that the aesthetic Characteristics of line, form, texture and Colour
are all Capable of producing related effects. Diagonal line, fastigiate form, bold
texture and bright Colours all, to some extent, share properties of dynamism,
drama and stimulation and can produce eye—Catching, striking effects, whereas,
horizontal line, prostrate or dome form, fine texture and dull Colours are all
Characterized by restful, unimposing qualities and so play a more recessive,
quieter role in Composition.
These Connections between these effects can be understood with the help of
Nelson’s Concept of visual energy (Nelson, 1985). Active Characteristics have a
higher visual energy than passive Characteristics. The idea of visual energy also
helps to explain why too many saturated Colours in one place or too much bold
texture and diagonal line Creates a Composition that can be Chaotic and tiring.
These high energy elements will all fight for attention and struggle among
themselves for dominance. To gain the full impact from a specimen plant and to
appreciate its unusual qualities, its visual energy needs to be complemented with
areas of quieter, visually undemanding planting.
Planting can be designed for high or low visual energy overall. The Choice is
influenced by the setting and purpose of the planting. For example, in a quiet
meditative garden, or in borders that Complement fine architectural detail, much
of the planting Could be of low visual energy, whereas a display garden in a park,
or a dreary urban setting, may need high energy to lift it above the ordinary.
Combining Plants
A particular plant may be of attractive appearance and easy Culture. But, when
we Combine it with others, these recommendations will Come to little if it is
placed where its beauty is eclipsed by conflicting demands on our attention, or it
is quickly overgrown by invasive neighbours.The next two Chapters will deal with
different aspects of plant Combinations. Chapter 7, Principles of Visual
Composition, will discuss how we Combine the Characteristics of form, line and
pattern, texture and Colour to achieve successful visual Composition. Chapter 8,
Plant Assemblages, will examine the effects of growth habit and horticultural
needs on plant Combinations. We will see how shoot and root habits, soil and
Climate, mode of spread, speed of growth and longevity all help determine a
plant’s ecological Compatibility with others and, therefore, its ability to form part
of a balanced plant association.
CHAPTER 7
Principles of Visual
Composition
Our analysis of the aesthetic Characteristics of plants has given us a basic visual
vocabulary. When this is put to work in a planting design it will Convey a visual
message of one kind or another. So, Composition Could be regarded as the visual
grammar of planting design.
Five Principles of Visual Composition
Painting, photography, sculpture and other visual art forms can all be analysed
by Composition and some principles are Common to them all. In planting, the
most important are the principles of harmony and Contrast, balance, emphasis,
sequence and scale. An understanding of these will allow us to analyse the visual
grammar of any plant association and help us with both design method and
Creative inspiration.
Harmony and Contrast
Harmony is a quality of relatedness. It is found between similar plant forms,
similar textures, similar Characters of line and Closely related Colours.The Closer
the relationship between the aesthetic qualities of associated plants, the greater
the harmony. As it becomes increasingly Close it approaches identity, but, in
identity, harmony would be lost because it depends for its aesthetic impact on
the simultaneous perception of both similarities and differences.The pleasure of
harmony rests not only in the similarities between things but in the balance
between identification and differentiation. The experience of identity and of
difference is of primal importance in the human psyche. We understand
everything we perceive in terms of similarity or difference to the familiar - to
make sense of the world we pick out a pattern of similarities as different from its
background, or Conversely, a pattern of differences arising from the
undifferentiated. So harmony and Contrast go together, they are not mere
polarities and neither can exist without the other.
Contrast is found between different plant forms, different qualities and
directions of line, texture and Colour. Contrast does not necessarily imply
Conflict - it may be an attractive, happy Contrast Coming from a Complementary,
mutually supportive relationship between widely different Characteristics.
Conflict is only perceived when the Contrast Creates strain, when it is not
Contained within order and aesthetic purpose. Indeed, without a binding,
unifying aesthetic purpose Contrast is likely to Create at least Confusion.
Principles of Visual Composition 1 1 1
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In planting Composition, we aim to achieve the right balance of harmony and
Contrast. Contrast between two species will be more visible and have a greater
effect if there is also a measure of harmony. This arrangement works well when
a Contrast in one Characteristic such as leaf texture is Combined with harmony in
another, such as leaf Colour. Similarly, harmony in flower Colour appears more
satisfying if it is used to link varied and Contrasting form and texture.
Too much Contrast is illegible, because there are too few related elements and
we Cannot perceive a pattern in the whole. A Combination of plants with strong
1 12 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 109 Harmony of leaf form and colour
supports the strong contrast in texture between
Bergenia and Saxifraga (Hidcote Manor,
Gloucestershire, UK).
Plate 108 Visual harmony can be found among
natural forms as diverse as trees and clouds (Avon,
UK).
Plate 111 The visual qualities of plants can be
delightful when related by harmony and contrast to
hard landscape materials (see colour section). In this
example the rectilinear geometry of the hedge and
brick edgings contrast with organic forms of the plants
while the texture and visual ‘softness’ of the pebble
groundcover provides a link between ‘hard’ and ‘soft’
materials (Hounslow Civic Centre, London).
1 . e;‘.1'\' r
Plate 110 The close relationship of colours and
textures shown by the ferns in this forest at Te
Urewera, New Zealand, emphasize the contrasting
form of the large—leaved tree ferns.
Plate 112 On the Victorian Italinate terrace at
Tatton Park, Cheshire, UK, the strictly symmetrical
layout of grass and floral bedding denotes absolute
control of form and articulates the central axis of
symmetry.
Principles of Visual Composition 1 13
Contrast in all its aesthetic Characteristics would appear Chaotic and we would
find it difficult to appreciate the qualities of individual plants and the
Composition as a whole. Indeed, the restlessness of such a Composition would
Cause Constant distraCtion.This is why restraint is one of the qualities in enduring
and refreshing design.
Balance
Balance Comes from the relationship between vegetation masses. It depends on
their magnitude, their position and their visual energy.
The possibility of visual balance implies two things, that the parts of a
Composition have visual force or energy, and that there is a fulcrum or axis about
which that force acts. This fulcrum or axis is brought into being, and given
importance, by the way in which plant masses and other elements are placed
around it. Because of its vital role of attracting and ordering surrounding
elements, the axis may become the focus of the space or Composition.
The simplest expression of balance is bilateral symmetry where the
arrangement of planting on one side of an axis is repeated in its mirror image on
the opposite side. There are often one or two axes of symmetry within a
Composition, but there can be any number (a Circle possesses an infinite number
of axes of symmetry).
Symmetry has long been associated with strict formality in design. Its abstract,
ordered patterns are an expression of rational thought and the Control of form is
a demonstration of the power of human technology to shape the materials of the
landscape. Symmetrical form is remarkable because it Contrasts with the natural,
organic forms that develop when no Conscious plan is imposed. Yet, pure
symmetry can be seen to emerge from natural forms. It is an intellectual
refinement of the underlying patterns of the microscopic world and of the
elements of the more relaxed symmetry found in living things.
Balance can also be achieved without symmetry. In this Case, visual stability
arises not from replication but by the balancing of the energy of different
qualities about the axis or fulcrum. Prominent form may balance Coarse texture
and assertive line may balance intense Colour. In addition, a small quantity of one
prominent Characteristic may balance a greater quantity of the same
Characteristic that is less strongly expressed. For example, a single plant with
striking, sword—like leaves would balance a group of three or five smaller plants
with ascending linear leaves of similar shape but finer texture. The energy of
balanced elements may be the potential energy that results from the positioning
of the plant masses.This potential energy is a product of both the mass itself and
of its relative height or prominence and allows a smaller plant mass in a
dominant location to balance a larger mass in a subordinate position.
When planting is balanced about an axis or Centre, either by symmetry or by
equality of energy, a state of visual stability is achieved. It may include dynamic
elements and exciting Contrasts, but its parts are held together in a unified whole.
These mass or energy equalities and stable, non—symmetrical arrangements are
sometimes said to have occult balance.
Emphasis and Accent
Important things and places can be emphasized by associating them with
planting of high visual energy. This is often Called accent planting and it can be
used to draw attention to elements like entrances, steps, seating or water.
Sometimes the planting itself provides the focus of a space and accent planting
114
The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Principles of Visual Composition 1 15
Plate 113 Symmetry is observed in the ground
modelling and the repetition of trees and shrubs
either side of the path. By emphasizing the axis of
symmetry generated by the building the planting
helps focus on the entrance to these apartments at
Kingston Dock, Glasgow.
Plate 114 The drama of a single Agave brings a
point of emphasis to the remarkable stonework of
viaduct and steps at Parc Guel, Barcelona, Spain.
Plate 116 The forestry planting on the distant
hillside includes drifts of different species that are in
Plate 115 The steady rhythm of the yew bastions scale with the patterns of the vegetation and
reflects the buttressing of the church at Ashridge, landform in the surrounding landscape (Snowdonia,
Hertfordshire, UK. \X/'ales)_
1 16 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Figure 7.3 Emphasis can be given by prominent form, coarse texture or careful
grouping.
Principles of Visual Composition 1 17
Plate 117 The largest
structures in the landscape,
such as the Humber Bridge,
near Hull, UK, require
plantations and tree clumps
of generous size to maintain
good generic scale
relationships.
is essential for the Creation of a visual rhythm and the division of the full extent
into comprehensible sections.
Emphasis and accent planting can be effective by virtue of its intrinsic striking
qualities or by Careful arrangement and grouping which brings the eye to rest at
the Chosen location. It is Closely related to Contrast because any strong Contrast
or sudden Change of appearance will attract attention. So a single plant of form
Contrasting with its setting will Create and accent.
Sequence
Sequence is the way that the appearance of a planting Composition Changes or
unfolds before the observer. Sequence may be visible from one observation
point, as in a build—up of Colours, textures or forms within a single vista, or it may
be experienced as a progression of scenes that unfold as we move through the
landscape.
Sequence is essential to the dynamic qualities of Composition. It is an
expression of Change. It relates the parts to the whole, not only within a static
picture, but also over time. Sequence in visual Composition can be likened to
rhythm in music or meter in verse; it provides a temporal structure to the
Composition. Just as with musical rhythms or poetic meter, planting sequence
may be ordered simply and with regular accent or it may be more Complex,
including overlapping patterns of repetition. It may be deliberately Chaotic or
arbitrary, giving expression to forces of disorder.
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Figure 7 .4 Sequence.
1 18 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Scale
Scale can be understood most simply as relative size. Ching (1996) defines scale
as either ‘generic’, that is, ‘... relative to other forms in its Context’ or ‘human’,
that is, ‘... relative to the dimensions and proportions of the human body’. In
landscape design generic scale refers to the size relationships between the
various parts of a whole space and within a plant association. The relative sizes
of single plants and of plant groupings determine the generic scale of the
Composition.These are the aspects of scale that tend to be seen as separate from
the observer. Human scale, on the other hand, refers to the relationship between
the size of Composition and the observer. Because we are designing for people
we must take account of the human—scale relationships of landscape and allow
for the effects of different patterns of engagement.
The amount of detail that we can perceive depends on the viewing distance.
As distance increases so we see less detail but a greater area and although the
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Principles of Visual Composition 1 19
Content of our view Changes the amount of information that we can assimilate
stays about the same. Close to, the finer Characteristics of foliage and flowers and
the textures and forms of smaller plants hold our attention. At a distance of
about 25 metres these details will be barely visible but the form of larger
individual plants and groupings of Colours and textures will dominate the
Composition. If we move back to 100 metres, only the trees will be appreciated
as individuals, and smaller plants as part of the Combined mass of woodland,
shrubbery or meadow. The different scales inherent in a plant association Cannot
all be perceived at once. Our attention tends to focus on one scale of patterns at
a time and so, in design, we must understand the different scales that
predominate from different viewing positions or regions.
Viewing scale is reliant not only on distance but also on movement. The rate
of travel through a landscape determines how much is visible within a given time
and the amount of information that can be absorbed from an area. Because of
this, the planting scale should reflect the observer’s speed of travel. Planting to
be seen repeatedly from a fixed vantage point and studied at leisure will do
justice to a smaller scale and greater diversity than planting that will receive only
brief glances from passing vehicles.
Unfortunately, it is Common to see planting design that is either too Complex
or too simple for its setting. In the first situation, the designer may be well
motivated but is misguided in trying to provide too much richness and diversity
within a restricted area. He or she might be trying to compensate for poverty of
planting elsewhere, or to relieve the dullness of the surroundings, but diversity is
wasted if it Cannot be appreciated from the normal distance and in the normal
period. Further, the generic scale relationships of planting to space and to
architecture and hard landscape are sometimes ignored in the desire to plant for
planting’s sake. Too much diversity in planting wastes much of the Care and
thought that has been put into other aspects of Composition.
At the other extreme, we find large expanses of shrub monocultures in
pedestrian areas. These can appear monotonous, even depressing, because they
offer too little diversity to satisfy Close inspection or maintain any interest while
we walk alongside.They have only two scales of interest: the minute detail of leaf,
flower or fruit and, at the generic scale, the Contribution that they make to the
site development as a whole.This mistake is Common when the designer is over
Concerned with the greater Concept at the expense of the materials and details of
design.
These are fundamental failures and they can overshadow other attractive
qualities the planting may have. When working on the drawing board, we need
good imagination to anticipate the effects of scale relationships.
Movement and Viewing Angles
The designer must also take into account the angles at which planting will be
seen. These are affected by movement through the landscape and while we
are in motion our range of focused attention is more restricted than when
static. The greater our speed of travel, the narrower this range will be. For
example, the attention of pedestrians walking purposefully will be Confined
within a horizontal spread of about ninety degrees. For a motorist on a fast
road this angle will be further reduced to about 45 degrees because of the
need to keep Close attention on a small, but rapidly Changing, visual area.
These angles refer to the general spread of focused attention allowing for
head as well as eye movements. It is not the same as the Commonly quoted
60 degrees ‘Cone of vision’ (e.g. Dreyfuss, 1967) that is determined by the
120 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Plate 118 Planting in a garden, whether public or AND gmfll, Qkwpg 9; 5;fQ)% 0M, 35 Ap
private, should be of sufficiently small scale to invite
prolonged observation and enjoyment (Stoke, UK).
Plate 119 When vehicles are passing at moderate
speeds more variation in shape and smaller groups of
species can be appreciated (Swindon, UK).
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Plate 120 Only tree and shrub groups of sufficient
scale will be perceived from fast moving vehicles on a
fast road. Note the contrasts between the forestry
plantation in the background, the edge of
regenerating native bush, and the varied herbaceous
flora at the road side (Bay of Plenty, New Zealand).
Figure 7.6 The scale of plant groupings should
reflect the speed of movement of the observer.
Principles of Visual Composition 121
Plate 1 21
This planting of sedges, Astelia
chathamica and Libertia, together with paving and
pebbles, is of a scale that invites movement and
reinforces the drama of the distant landscape. An
intricate foreground would have been out of place
here (Hamilton, New Zealand).
Plate 122 This restrained planting at Dartington
Hall, Devon, UK, shows mutual enhancement of
complementary hues, combined with harmony of
texture and form. Note the colour harmony of the
purple flowers, grey foliage and the stone in wall and
path (see colour section).
optimum angle of eye rotation of 30 degrees either side of the horizontal axis
of the head.
We most often see planting by the side of a path or road from an acute angle,
and so its apparent dimensions will be foreshortened. Just as road markings are
painted on the road surface in an elongated shape to give the appearance of
normal proportions, so plant arrangements should be stretched along the axis of
movement to achieve the scale that is desired.
Unity and Diversity in Planting Design
Unity and diversity are sometimes treated as principles of design. However, they
are better understood as an objective underpinning the principles discussed
above.They are fundamental to all design and all expression.The desire for unity
needs little explanation.Wholeness, Completeness, are an essential motivation for
the human psyche and the perception of unity in the outer world is intrinsically
satisfying. Principles of Composition can be seen as a guide towards unity and
variety in design. Unity can arise from a pervasive harmony of aesthetic
Characteristics; from an overall balance of Composition that binds the various
parts into a whole; from the emphasis of linking elements in the Composition;
from an ordered sequence of spaces and planting; and from a Choice of planting
scale that links the scales of its landscape setting to that of its human
participants.
Diversity is easier to provide than unity. The range of plant species and
cultivars available includes all the variety we are ever likely to need and more.
Even a single plant can show great variation as it develops and Changes through
the seasons. It is achieving unity that is the designer’s greater Challenge.
Planting Ideas
Over and above the binding function of Composition, unity can be achieved by
the presence and Clarity of a planting idea or theme. This can be of great value
122 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
to the designer because once Chosen, it gives both inspiration and a Conceptual
framework for the development of detailed design. Further, it can help reduce
the array of possible plant species to a manageable palette.
A theme may be historic, that is, based on the interpretation of the past
Character and events of a site, or the incorporation of historic references in
Contemporary design; a theme can be inspired by how people use the landscape,
or it may simply reflect a Central design Concept or idea that informs all aspects
of the landscape architecture of the site, including the planting. It is always
important that the planting design Contributes to the overall design Concept and
objectives, and this is achieved by the spatial design and by the themes employed
in detailed planting Composition. Planting themes are many and diverse but can
usefully be divided into those based on the aesthetic Characteristics, on
taxonomic relationships or ecology.
Plate 123 This sunken garden at Thames Barrier Plate l24 The leOn Of the NeWWOfld elty gfld has
Park in London, UK, is a good example of planting been aPPlled: Wlth a sense Of hnlnOnfs tO the Plantlng
that reflects a central design concept. The dockland ln thls San F1"anelseO: USA; Plaza tO fePfesent the
history of the area is expressed in the form of the PefVaslVe ldea Of the elty as geOlnetfY-
garden and in the wave-like shapes of the yew
hedges. The planting is contained in long strips
between the hedges and narrow paths. This is an
innovative development of the traditional mixed
border with hedge backing.
Plate 125 The inspiration for this planting is made
explicit. A stream of blue, white and purple pansies
(Viola hybrids) tumbles down an artificial hillside at
the Stoke National Garden Festival, UK. The
moorland grasses and rushes not only reinforce the
suggestion of an upland stream but their subdued
browns and greens provide a complement to the
brighter colours of the pansies.
Principles of Visual Composition 123
COLOUR Many beautiful garden and landscape plantings have been Created by
restricting Colours of flowers, fruits, stems and foliage to a limited, related range. For
example, Colour theme borders, especially of white flowers and grey and silvery
foliage, were very popular in the Arts and Crafts, ‘English Country garden’ of the
early twentieth Century. These are well preserved or recreated at, among many
others, Newby Hall in NorthYorkshire, Hidcote Bartrim Manor in Gloucestershire,
Sissinghurst Castle in Kent and Hestercombe House in Somerset. The Control of
Colours in these borders Creates a pervasive mood stimulated by the Character of
hues. In addition, many subtleties of tone, tint and intensity can be appreciated that
might be lost in a more diverse Colour scheme. Walking in the white garden at
Hidcote allows us to appreciate the diversity of Colour that exists simply among
whites, Creams, greys and silvers. The Contrast with the red borders of the same
garden is dramatic. Here we find a sultry, sub—tropical extravagance. The intense,
rich reds of hardy and tender flowers melt into the bronzes and purples of foliage
and the whole effect is strangely unfamiliar in the subdued, English light.
Other single Colour themes have been used to great effect, yellows bring vitality
in the shade of buildings and many yellow flower and foliage plants prefer the low
light of such locations. Most blue flowered and silver or grey foliaged plants, on
the other hand, need full sun and warm Conditions to grow well and develop their
most effective foliage Colours. This is because the grey or silver leaf Colour that
arises from a woolly or tomentose leaf surface is usually an adaptation to
moisture stress or intense sunlight in the plant’s natural habitat.
On the subject of single Colour themes, painter and planting designer Gertrude
Jekyll was Cautious:
It is a Curious thing that people will sometimes spoil some garden project for
the sake of a word. For instance, a blue garden, for the beauty’s sake, may be
hungering for a group of white lilies, or for something of palest lemon—yellow,
but it is not allowed to have it because it is Called the blue garden, and there
must be no flowers but blue flowers. I can see no sense in this; it seems to me
like fetters foolishly self—imposed. Surely the business of the blue garden is to
be beautiful as well as blue. My own idea is that it should be beautiful first,
and then just as blue as may be Consistent with its best possible beauty.
Moreover any experienced Colourist knows that the blues will be more telling
- more purely blue - by the juxtaposition of rightly placed Complementary
Colour. (Jekyll, 1908)
Well—balanced, dual Colour themes can also unify a planting scheme. The
Contrast and mutual enhancement of Complementary Colours is displayed most
powerfully when each hue is restricted to a narrow range.Yellows and purples
offer a striking Complement of hue, and also a Contrast of value, because yellows
are lighter and fresher than purples of a similar intensity. Blue and orange is often
less successful, perhaps because the Contrast in value is less, and both Colours can
appear rather heavy in the presence of their Complement. It is hard to say why
this is so. It is a matter of perception and experience. Colour themes can be
based on value and intensity rather than only on hue. For example, a planting of
pastel flower Colours and grey or silver foliage is given a sense of unity by the grey
or white that unites the various hues. Pale pinks and pale purple blues can make
a particularly effective pastel Colour scheme.
Some Colour Combinations have had a bad press. Pink and orange are
traditionally thought to Clash, but this is due to lighting Conditions and Cultural
preferences. In tropical Countries such as India, these two Colours are Commonly
Combined in fabric and other design, so why not in planting?
124 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
An important reason for the success of the more restricted Colour themes is
that a degree of variety and Contrast will inevitably be provided by the Colours of
plant foliage. This Contrast is strongest for a red Colour theme in which the flower
hues will be Complementary to the foliage greens, but in other Colour themes
there will still be enough to enliven the Composition as a whole. It is particularly
helpful to include a proportion of dark green foliage to anchor the pale and pastel
Colours.
TEXTURE, LINE AND FORM Texture may provide the aesthetic theme for
Composition but Care is needed with the balance of harmony and Contrast. An
association Consisting largely of bold textured plants can be overbearing unless
relief is provided by other elements. Bold texture can provide an exciting theme
in a space large enough to avoid feeling claustrophobic, and provided that
Contrast in line, form and Colour is also included. ‘Sub—tropical’ and foliage
gardens have been Created in this way to give an atmosphere of luxuriant
rainforest vegetation but using temperate species.
Use of bold textures is also traditional in association with modern buildings.
This is sometimes Called ‘architectural planting’, perhaps because the species
used have a bold form and Consistent habit that echoes the boldness of form in
modern architecture. A theme of fine plant textures would, on the other hand,
risk appearing weak and empty unless the lack of stimulation provided by the
plant texture was Compensated for by strong form, pattern or Colour.The use of
fine textures is Common in formal historic landscapes, especially in parterres,
hedging, pleaching or topiary.
SEASONAL THEMES When it Comes to seasonal Change, we can identify
Contrasting approaches. The first Could be Called the ‘architectural approach’. In
this, the aesthetic objective is abstract and formal: it aims to maintain Carefully
planned visual qualities in a state of constancy, almost as if the planting were
made of building materials. It usually relies on evergreen foliage species, in order
to keep the same texture and form throughout the year and tends to avoid plants
Plate 127 The spring garden is a common seasonal
Plate 126 Use of bold foliaged species can create a theme-This WOOdland Walk at l3aftlngtOn Halls ln.
jungle-like character in temperate regions by echoing DeVO1'1; UK; deslgned tO be at 1ts Peak 1n sPf1ng Wlth
the large—leafed characteristic of tropical rain forest eafPets Of natnfallzed WOOdland flOWefs and shrubs
(Newby Hall,Yorkshire, UK)_ such as Camellia and Magnolia.
Principles of Visual Composition 125
that look messy or uninteresting at a particular season.The Classic example is the
groundcover and accent planting Common in Corporate landscapes.
Another is the ‘horticultural approach’, which tries to achieve diversity and
highlights through as much of the year as possible. This approach emphasizes
seasonal Change and deals with the ‘down time’ of a particular species by
planting another that will occupy the aesthetic gap. A good example of this
approach is found in the home garden where people plant for year—round Colour.
A horticultural approach is growing in some areas of professional landscape
design, and designers such as Piet Oudolf (1999) and James van Sweden
(Oehme and Van Sweden, 1990) are using herbaceous plants to great effect in
large—scale public and Corporate projects with much attention to their ephemeral
qualities and seasonal Contrasts. Some new urban parks, such as Thames Barrier
Park in East London, are reinterpreting traditional methods of horticultural
display, both to extend the period of horticultural interest and to express the
Contemporary design themes of the whole development.
A third approach is to Concentrate horticultural resources in one season, and
thereby Create an intense, transient, but memorable seasonal ‘event’. In plantings
like this, most of the plants to be used would be selected to be at their peak in
the Chosen months. This seasonal approach was much used in large private
gardens especially those of the Arts and Crafts movement (such as Knightshayes
Court, Dartington Hall, Hidcote Manor), but it can be adapted to public and
Corporate landscapes today, provided that the intensity of use is low enough to
allow some areas to be below their best for part of the year. The periods that are
most successful for seasonal displays are early spring (for bulbs and early
flowering shrubs), late spring/early summer (for tree and shrub flower), high
summer (for herbaceous perennials and tender plants), autumn (for fruits and
foliage and, in some Climates, a second flush of flower) and winter (for Coloured
stems and winter flowering plants). Each has its own distinctive Charm.
SCENT SOUND AND TOUCH Non—visual aesthetic qualities may also provide
a theme for planting. Emphasis on scent, sound and touch is normal in planting
for people with visual disabilities, but any of these Could also provide a unifying
theme in less specialized plantings.
The fragrance of flowers and aromatic foliage is a source of delight and
planting that is Carefully planned to provide an attractive blending and Continuity
of scents throughout the year would have great distinction and Character.
Blending of scent is no easier than Combining Colours, and a garden of scents
would require as much skill and sensitivity as one based on a Colour theme.
Sound and touch are less obvious Characteristics of plants. Sound is dependent
on the wind or rain to sway branches, rustle leaves, or clatter stems.The physical
feel of plants requires our participation and so is less often appreciated. However,
either, if used boldly, Could provide an exciting and unusual theme for planting
that would be appreciated by the more imaginative observer. Plants can heighten
our sense of the weather and broaden our sensory experience with the sound of
rain on foliage. Indeed different plants produce remarkably different sounds in
the rain. The large leaves of species such as Fatsiajaponica and Phlomis russeliana
amplify the impact of raindrops; hard leaved plants like Epimedium perralderanum
and Hedera echo with a Clattering sound and smaller, softer leaved shrubs like
Symphoricarpos ‘Hancock’ and Caryopteris produce a swishing noise. If you want
to experience this, stand with your eyes Closed in heavy rain near to plants with
different leaf sizes and textures and see if you can identify the different sounds
they make. If you prefer not to get wet, try watering your garden with your eyes
Closed.
126 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
TAXONOMIC THEMES In many botanic gardens and horticultural Collections,
plants are arranged by genus, family and order. Taxonomic themes also provide
inspiration for purely ornamental purposes; the prime example is the rose
garden, but other genera and groups of related genera are sometimes displayed
in their own separate garden, beds or spread throughout an area. Woodland
gardens featuring magnolias or rhododendrons/azaleas are Common, as are
Collections of Camellias. Other examples include Iris, Aloe, Protea, Cistus and
Fuchsia. The Close taxonomic relationship between the species gives a unity and
sense of identity to the planting. Collections of plants of a single family are also
brought together, usually by enthusiasts. Examples include orchid Collections,
bromeliads, Asteraceae (daisy family) borders, Proteaceae Collections and heather
gardens. Grass gardens, succulent gardens, Conifer gardens and fern Collections
bring together a wider range of plants, though they are still related, and these can
be very effective in Creating a strong, distinctive planting Character.
Taxonomic relationships can provide a theme to help both inspire and unify a
planting design. They are most appropriate when the environmental Conditions
are particularly well suited to a genus or family that includes a range of species
all adapted to a habit found on the site. A Cistus (rock rose) garden would only
be really successful on a hot, dry, sunny bank, and an iris Collection would be
best if both dry and wet ground were present to allow a full range of dry—land
and aquatic species to be grown.
One significant risk with extensive planting of Closely related species, however,
is that of pests and diseases. Not only is a large proportion of the species likely
to be vulnerable to the same infestations, but its spread will be more rapid than
if the host species were more widely distributed among resistant plants.
Fireblight on Rosaceae and hypericum rust are diseases that demand Caution in
the planting of those plant groups.
HABITATTHEMES Natural habit is a Common organizing principle in planting
design. Rock and scree gardens, alpine gardens, dry river beds, wall plantings,
wildflower meadows, woodland gardens, bush gardens, water and marginal
plantings are all ways of displaying a variety of species that are perceived to
Plate 128 Rose gardens are traditional examples of Plate 129 An artificial boulder scree with acid soil
planting on a taxonomic theme. This one at Newby provides a habitat for planting design at the Glasgow
Hall,Yorkshire, UK, features shrub and species roses. Garden Festival, Scotland. Heathers (Calluna
vulgaris), heaths (Erica sp.) and birch (Betula sp.) not
only grow well but also look at home in this kind of
terrain.
Plate 130 This classic example of a planted
drystone retaining wall is at the restored Jekyll and
Lutyens garden at Hestercombe in Somerset, UK.
Plate 132 The development of a hotel and
conference centre in an old quarry at Hagen,
Germany, provides the opportunity for naturalistic
planting which reinforces the sense of place (see
colour section).
Principles of Visual Composition 127
Plate 131 The wildflower meadow is a common
habitat theme. This example is nearWhakatane, New
Zealand and most of the flowers as well as grasses
are introduced species but are none the less
attractive in this rural setting.
Plate 133 A waterside theme may be adopted even
when the soil is not in Contact with a water body by
planting species such as Alchemilla mollis and Salix
matsudana ‘Tortuosa’ which we associate with water
but which do not require permanently moist soil
(Lincoln County Hospital, Lincoln, UK).
Plate 134 The woodland habitat is well suited to
ornamental planting and, in many large gardens and
parks, provides a theme for collections of shade and
shelter loving plants such as smooth Japanese maple
(Acer palmatum) (Bodnant, Wales).
128 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
belong together. This is because a shared adaptation to similar environmental
Conditions often results in similar morphological Characteristics, or because we
associate these plants together from our knowledge of wild and semi—natural
landscapes.
The limitations on species imposed by a particular habitat, especially if it is a
difficult one for plant growth, allows the designer to introduce Contrast and
variety in aesthetic qualities without losing the sense of natural affinity between
the plants. That affinity and the Character of a distinctive habitat will help to
Create a strong sense of place and a natural logic to the Choice and arrangement
of plants.
No single habitat, however distinctive, is Completely isolated from others.
Forest grades into scrub or meadow or sub—alpine Communities; open water
adjoins emergent marginal plants or swamp, and so on. Likewise when we Create
artificial habitats for planting or establishing particular Communities we can
build a sequence of related Conditions, an ecotone, and encompass more
diversity within our planting theme. We might even go so far as to represent a
whole landscape in microcosm from rocky peaks and tumbling streams to still
lakes and tranquil pastures.
A planting idea related to that of the habitat—as—theme, is the ‘plant signature’
(Robinson, N., 1993).This is the use of a Carefully Chosen grouping ofplants that
refers to, or signifies, a distinctive plant association or Community. The signature
grouping is one that is Commonly found in that plant Community and so can be
used to refer to it or identify it.This gives us the Chance to do two things: to bring
the ornamental qualities of a natural Community into planting design (without
the need to Create and manage new habitat) and, secondly, to refer to a particular
place. Note that it is the signature of the plant Community and not the signature
of the designer!
Plate 135 This grouping at the
University of Canterbury, New Zealand,
consisting of gossamer grass (Anemanthele
lessoniana) and tawhai or beech (Nothofagus
sp.) forms a plant signature referring to the
typical forest edge/glade communities of
the dryer Canterbury mountain forests.
Principles of Visual Composition 129
Inspiration
The principles of Composition Consist of an ordering of visual phenomena. These
effects can be perceived by anybody, regardless of Culture and personal
experience. The ability to distinguish harmony and Contrast, to experience
sequence and to respond to scale are fundamental to human interaction with the
environment.
This understanding of the visual environment does not, by itself, lead us to
manipulate that environment; to Create and recreate the Cultural landscape
around us. To design requires stimulus and inspiration. The stimulus may be a
functional necessity such as the need for food or shelter; or it may be a more
sophisticated aesthetic need. What gives rise to an aesthetic need? What inspires
the people to manipulate the elements of Composition with aesthetic purpose?
The inspiration for design arises from three major sources. First, the ethos of
a particular time and place is an inescapable influence that underpins the work
of individuals. Such Cultural influences may be unconscious, as is the Case with
much popular design, but trained designers should have studied and developed
an understanding of the philosophy of design both in their own and also in other
Cultures and periods. This kind of Cultural inspiration marks all the great
movements and styles of landscape design.The English Landscape movement of
the eighteenth Century was inspired by a new appreciation of nature and
influenced by the paintings of artists such as the Italians, Rosa, Poussin and
Claude Lorrain. These portrayed a harmony between human activity and natural
forces and a benign, pastoral landscape populated with architectural symbols of
European humanist Culture. The Gardenesque, in the mid—nineteenth Century
was inspired by the array of exotic species being introduced at that time and also
influenced by the Victorian penchant for orderliness. Modernism was inspired by
the machine age. The landscapes that resulted, reflected the Conditions and the
mood of their time.
Individuals have been Crucial in propagating new ideas about design, which we
now identify with their Contemporary Culture. But, designers such as Lancelot
Brown (1715-83), John Claudius Loudon (1783-1843), Thomas Church
(1902-78) and Martha Schwartz (b. 1950) were not only vehicles for the birth of
embryonic ideas but they also brought their own personal experience and
inspiration to design. Their own individuality is stamped on their work.
The value of the individual is enshrined in western humanism, and the
expression of personal freedom and values became a particularly powerful
motivation in design in the late twentieth Century. It has perhaps become an end
in itself and, whether we believe this to be enriching or superficial, we can
Consider individualism to be a distinctive inspiration of the age. The mark of
individuality, although it may be quite Conspicuous, is more superficial than the
underlying Cultural generators of style. Although the designer’s personal initiative
and ideas may lead to a design with a strong identity, there is a risk that it
becomes too contrived, too mannered, to Carry real ConviCtion.This can happen
if designers try to impose their own will on the site and the result can appear
‘over—designed’.
This brings us to the third source of inspiration - the site itself. The genius loci
or ‘spirit of the place’ is recognized as something that should be deeply
Considered in design. The term was first coined by the writer and gardener
Alexander Pope in 1731 while advising on the layout of landscape gardens, most
of which would be located in a rural setting. However, the spirit of the place can
be just as strong in urban landscapes or small private gardens. If we seek to
express this essential nature of the site then the resulting design may be quite
130 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
unassuming. It may simply build on the best elements and Character of what
already exists and it may be difficult for the untrained observer to detect the work
of a designer at all. Indeed, some of the best landscape architecture conceals the
influence of the designer not by deliberate disguise but because imposed ideas
and personal touches are not necessary. In such Cases, one Could say ‘the site has
designed itself ’.The risk with site generated design is that it can have a feeling of
dull inevitability about it. It can lack freshness and surprise. If we look deeply
enough into the site and its natural and human history we do, however, often find
the source of transformational design ideas. The genius loci can be sought in the
local library archives, the stories of local people and in our own subconscious
perceptions, as well as in the nature of the physical landscape.
CHAPTER 8
Plant Assemblages
This Chapter will examine some of the key ecological and horticultural factors
that determine the success of plant assemblages. Understanding these technical
aspects will ensure that the planting develops to become what we imagined, and
can be sustained without excessive demands on maintenance resources.
Plant Communities
In spontaneous, that is ‘natural’ or ‘semi—natural’ plant Communities, each plant
maintains itself by its ability to find the light, moisture and nutrients that it
needs. Each species is equipped to live in a particular ecological niche, but
interacts directly or indirectly with the other members of the Community.
Let us take mature forest as an example. One Characteristic that typifies and
distinguishes plant Communities found in forest is the way that they occupy the
physical space above the ground. The species present are distributed in two ways
- they occupy different areas of ground (they are distributed horizontally), and
their Canopies occupy different levels above the ground (they are distributed
vertically). Distribution in the horizontal plane is largely determined by ground
Conditions, especially soil nutrients and moisture, and by atmospheric Conditions,
that is, wind exposure, light and preCipitation.The vertical distribution is largely
determined by inherent growth form Combined with atmospheric Conditions.
Forest Structures
It is interesting to Compare two structurally different forest types with design
objectives, rather than pure ecology, in mind. This will give us some insight into
how different Canopy structures can be suited to different design purposes.
Forests from different Climatic zones have Characteristic stratification and growth
forms that, as much as the particular species present, tell us where we are in the
world. We will imagine ourselves suspended, simultaneously, above a New
Zealand lowland rainforest and a forest in lowland Britain and then descend
through the layers of the forest Canopy. As we do so, we will explain the
differences between the two forests and how they might suggest different design
opportunities. The New Zealand rainforest provides an interesting Contrast with
the British forest because, although both are found in temperate Climates, the
New Zealand bush has many affinities with tropical rainforest.
The New Zealand forest is a kind of podocarp—broadleaved forest
Characterized by emergent podocarps above a Canopy of broadleaved trees, this
132 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
was Common in lowland and the lower montane areas before its destruction by
logging and burning and Conversion to pasture. At a height of about 30-40
metres above the ground, we would find ourselves among the tops of the tallest
trees of this forest.These form a discontinuous layer Consisting of podocarps (an
ancient family of Conifers) such as rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum), matai
(Prumnopitys taxifolia), miro (Prumnopitys ferruginea) totara (Podocarpus totara)
and kahikatea (Darcycarpus dacrydioides) together with the epiphytic giant,
northern rata (Metrosideros robusta). They emerge above a denser Canopy below,
and provide a host to many epiphytic species, which benefit from the high light
levels.
It is not until we have descended to between 20 and 30 metres above the
ground that we encounter a Complete tree Canopy. This happens in both the New
Zealand and the British deciduous forest. In the latter, the tallest trees, which
form the forest Canopy, are pedunculate oak (Quercus robur) perhaps mixed with
ash (Fraxinus excelsior), sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) or alder (Alnus glutinosa).
The mix depends on local ground Conditions and where these become extreme
(e.g. waterlogged or alkaline), other species may replace the oak altogether to
form specialized Communities.These trees can form a tightly knit Canopy, broken
only by gaps left by fallen trees. The upper surface of the forest Canopy is often
gently undulating or mounded, reflecting the shapes of the individual trees, or in
some places (especially where exposed to strong wind) smooth, as though planed
off.
In the New Zealand forest the broadleaved Canopy is evergreen, not
deciduous, and includes trees such as tawa (Beilschmiedia tawa), hinau
(Elaeocarpus dentatus), kamahi (I/Winmannia racemosa) and rewarewa (Knightia
excelsa). These Canopy trees also provide support to many lianes (tall vines) and
perching epiphytes. Lianes include the native passion flower (Passiflora tetrandra)
and puawhananga (Clematis paniculata), and epiphytes comprise both
herbaceous plants, such as the perching lilies (Collospermum hastatum and Astelia
solandri) that form ‘nests’ in the forks of branches, and epiphytic trees such as
puka (Griselinia lucida) and northern rata (Metrosideros robusta).
This mixture of tall forest trees forms the main Canopy, the first Complete layer
of foliage to intercept the sunlight. In dense forest, this layer may be only several
metres deep, although it is often Carried between 20 and 30 metres above the
ground. Below this, smaller trees form an intermittent, sub—dominant tree layer
in places where light levels are sufficient to support trees that Cannot attain the
same height as the Canopy dominants. In the oak woodland the sub—Canopy
would include species such as field maple (Acer campestre), rowan (Sorbus
aucuparia) and holly (Ilex aquifolium). Again, they are mostly deciduous and holly
is the only Common evergreen in this kind of woodland. In the podocarp-
broadleaved forest it is, as the name suggests, mainly broadleaved rather than
Coniferous trees that make up the sub—Canopy. They are almost entirely evergreen
and include many species of Pittosporum, Pseudopanax, Coprosma and the tree
ferns, as well as mahoe (Melicytus ramiflorus), kohekohe (Dysoxylum spectabile)
and nikau palm (Rhopalostylis sapida).
Below this, we find an ‘understorey’ or ‘shrub layer’ that, in both forests, varies
considerably in density. Where sufficient light gets through the foliage above, this
layer can be diverse and luxuriant, difficult to penetrate in places, but in dark
areas it becomes thinner or disappears altogether. The main difference between
the two forests is that the podocarp—broadleaved forest is never both open and
well lit. Because the Climatic Conditions are so favourable for plant growth, any
gaps that appear are very quickly occupied by growth.The open areas that we do
find within the forest are mostly very dark and often thick with the Closely spaced
Plant Assemblages 133
stems of trees and vines that have been drawn up to the light above. In oak
woodland, there can be areas where the density of the summer tree Canopy is
enough to restrict growth of the shrub layer, and the inside of the forest becomes
like a room with its roof supported on widely spaced pillars. In late autumn,
winter and spring, when the foliage is not fully developed, this space can have a
light and airy atmosphere.
Understorey species include shade tolerant shrubs such as, in oak woodland,
hazel (Corylus avellana), midland hawthorn (Crataegus oxycantha) and elder
(Sambucus nigra). In the podocarp—broadleaved forest species would include
species of Coprosma, Olearia rani, tree ferns and the young plants of tree species.
Root—Clinging vines such as the rata vines and Climbing ferns are also Common
at this level in the Canopy.
The next stratum down is known as the ‘herb layer’ or ‘field layer’. It Comprises
herbaceous and woody species that Commonly grow up to about 1 metre in
height, though often lower. Like the understorey layer, the herb layer’s depth and
density will depend on the light that is able to Come through the upper storeys.
Trees and shrubs also affect the plants below by other means, such as root
Competition and leaf litter (see Sydes and Grime, 1979, for more information on
this).
In oak woodland, the herb layer species include shade—tolerant prostrate
shrubs and Climbers, such as ivy (Hedera helix), honeysuckle (Lonicera
periclymenum) and bramble (Rubus fruticosus), herbaceous plants such as dog’s
mercury (Mercurialis perennis), lords and ladies (Arum maculatum) and ground
ivy (Glechoma hederacea); and the seedlings of tall—growing woody species.
Because the forest Canopy is deciduous, and oak Comes into leaf relatively late in
spring, there is an opportunity in the herb layer for plants that Complete most of
their life Cycle in spring. These are Called vernal herbs. They flower and make
most of their growth between March and June, before the tree and shrub
Canopies have reached their greatest density. Wood anemone (Anemone
nemorosa), bluebell (Endymion non—scriptus) and primrose (Primula vulgaris) are
examples of oak woodland flowers that take advantage of this seasonal ‘window
of opportunity’. Vernal herbs are often less well developed in beech woods
because the tree Canopy Comes into leaf earlier in the spring and Casts a heavier
shade. In ash woods, the amount of light getting through the tree Canopy is
greater and this allows a denser shrub layer to develop and to restrict the growth
of the field layer.
The herb layer in podocarp—broadleaved forest includes a great range of ferns
together with some sedges and other flowering plants. By far the main
Component is the ferns, which reflects the low light levels that predominate near
the ground throughout the year. Common species are Crown fern (Blechnum
discolor), hound’s tongue (Phymatosorus diversifolius) and hen and Chicken fern
(Asplenium bulbiferum). Also frequent, trailing along the ground, are the stems of
small white rata (Metrosideros perforata) and thread fern (Blechnum filiforme).
Two Principles
We have sketched only the briefest outline of forest structure, but it is enough to
highlight two principles that can be applied to the design of planted assemblages
of all kinds.
The first is the groundcover principle: that Complete Cover of the ground area
at one or more levels is a sign of a well—developed plant Community growing
under favourable Conditions. The ground surface is Covered throughout the year
either by living vegetation or by a thick layer of leaf and twig litter and other
134 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
debris. Bare soil, on the other hand, indicates a high degree of stress in the
growing environment. This may take the form of low levels of water, soil air,
available nutrients, toxicity, excessive Compaction or frequent disturbance.
The second is the Complexity principle: that plant Communities in favourable
environmental Conditions tend to become more Complex as they develop over
time. This Complexity may be reduced by interference of one kind or another,
either natural or human, and the process of development is set back or begins
again. Complexity can be assessed by three main Criteria:
1. the variety of species present: species diversity (this is equivalent to local
bio—diversity),
2. the number of Canopy layers present: structural diversity,
3. diversity through the seasons: seasonal diversity.
Species and structural diversity act as a buffer against environmental pressures
such as Climatic or microclimatic Change and variations in biotic factors
including disease, grazing and human interference. A wide range of species offers
potential for adaptation to environmental Change and a well—developed physical
structure tends to ameliorate the severity of Climatic and soil factors.
Designing with Canopy Layers
Too much planting design is done on plan alone. No less attention should be
given to the vertical, spatial arrangement of plants than to where we put them in
the horizontal plane. After all, it is the elevations of plant groups that we see most
often. It is unusual to view planting from much above normal eye level and most
people never see it from above. It is also important for designers, who are
Creating places for people, to understand the effect of the spatial structures of
plant Communities. This will help them to realize more of the potential of their
Plate 136 New Zealand
podocarp—broadleaved
forest at Kaitoke near
Wellington showing
massive emergent
northern rata above a
dense evergreen
broadleaved canopy and
some shrubs and tree ferns
below.
Plate 137 Typical British
oak woodland in spring,
showing understorey of
regenerating tree species
as well as small trees and
shrubs. The herb layer is
partly dormant but grass is
vigorous in lighter areas
(Sheffield, UK).
Plant Assemblages 135
unique design medium. To illustrate this, let us Compare a journey on foot
through two Contrasting forest types.
In the New Zealand lowland rainforest of the kind described above, there is a
strong sense of the abundance and power of growth. Indeed the main tree
Canopy, at its most vigorous growth stages, can be so dense that few plants can
survive at all in the feeble light below. Where more light is able to penetrate,
however, saplings quickly spring up; or shade tolerant shrubs and ferns luxuriate
in the dappled sunlight and moist shelter. Even where there is little understorey,
the bush interior is a tangled mass of stems, lianes and fallen debris that make it
both a visual and a physical barrier. So, if we possibly Can, we will find our way
round the perimeter or keep to well—trodden paths within it. If we do venture into
the dim interior, we find ourselves in an unfamiliar world where we feel Clumsy
and easily disoriented. In the places where shafts of bright sunlight penetrate, the
foliage of the shrubs and ferns is lit up and seems to glow, jewel—like, in the
darkness.
In the New Zealand montane beech forest, the Character is quite different:
serene and mysterious. Overhead is a feathery, even Canopy of foliage raised on
trunks lightly clothed with lichens. On the ground below is spread a mantle of
mosses, ferns, bush lilies and other low growing plants. The ‘shrub layer’ is
formed mainly by vigorous thickets of regenerating beech in the lighter areas,
rather than specifically shrub species. Otherwise, the space is Comparatively
open, allowing views into the surrounding forest and letting enough sunlight
through to Create varied and beautiful patterns of illumination on the trunks of
the trees and the forest floor. This is an inviting space to explore.
To the designer, these spatial structures offer both the means to different
moods, and to different practical functions. The Comparative openness and
accessibility within the mountain beech forest Creates the kind of spaces that suit
human participation, particularly recreational activities. People will walk, play,
Cycle, park their Cars, sit and eat their lunch within this kind of space if they are
given simple facilities and sensitive management. On the other hand, the density
of lowland bush deters entry and makes it an effective means of separation and
enclosure. If we need maximum shelter, a solid screen or the Concise definition
of a spatial edge, this kind of planting structure would serve the purpose.
Complex mature forest structures of the kind outlined above are one
possibility for design. However, it is important to remember that these can be
difficult and slow to establish in a Cleared area or in grassland. For a full
treatment of the technical aspects, the reader is referred to the literature on
establishing forest Communities and plant habitats, such as B. Evans’s
Revegetation Manual (1983) and G. P. Buckley, Biological Habitat Reconstruction
(1990). In the long term, a mature forest structure may be the objective, but
there are many projects where simpler Canopy structures would be the only
realistic option for an early objective.
Some Typical Canopy Structures
In the examples that follow, the spatial Canopy structures listed are based on
some familiar plant Communities, both natural and modified, found in temperate
regions.The list is not a Classification of plant Communities, only a description of
the potential of Canopy structures for landscape design.
The list is in two parts: the first describes Cool temperate deciduous woody
plant Community structures that are Common in Britain, Europe and parts of
North America, and the second describes evergreen structures found in
temperate to warm—temperate Climates such as New Zealand. In the
136 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
descriptions, the names of the layers are separated by /, and poorly developed
layers are shown in brackets.
Deciduous Cool Temperate Communities (Europe and North
America)
Three—layer Canopy Structures
TREE CAN OPY/( S UB—CAN OPY) /SHRUB LAYER/HERB LAYER This kind of
multiple layer woodland develops where the ground provides sufficient moisture,
nutrients and root anchorage and where Conditions of exposure and temperature
allow. Little remains of the original great forest of Europe but a related type is
found in planted and managed woodlands and in spontaneous secondary
growth. Small areas of woodland, Copses and spinneys are much more Common
than extensive forest because they can occupy pieces of land not big enough to
be put to more financially rewarding uses, or not suitable for development. Such
woodland may be spontaneous in origin, the result of secondary succession in
areas released from human interference, or it may be deliberately planted.
This provides the model for ornamental, exotic vegetation with related Canopy
structures. This tends to be found in woodland gardens and in beds of exotic
tree, shrub and herb layer planting throughout the amenity landscape. These
pockets of ornamental woodland - ‘exotic groves’ - occur in parks, gardens and
other urban planting, but they are mostly scaled down versions of the native
forest, using scattered trees of 8-12 metres height rather than 20-25 metres as
found in the forest Canopy. This is like leaving out the dominant forest trees and
planting the sub—Canopy. In area, they may be as small as 100 square metres but
still show the distinctive Canopy structure of three or more overlapping, but not
necessarily Continuous, layers.
Multi—layer forest or woodland structure is valuable for shelter, wildlife, visual
improvements, environmental education and informal recreation. Whether
naturalistic or ornamental, it offers a great diversity of plants and an aesthetic
richness. It gives the best plant value per area because it makes full use of the
space above the ground, allowing trees to grow above shrubs that grow above
perennials and bulbs and groundcover.
Unfortunately, many opportunities for this kind of planting are ignored.There
are a number of reasons for this; the commonest is traditional ideas about how
to grow and display ornamental plants. These originate partly from the
Gardenesque style of J. C. Loudon (quoted in Turner, 1987) and encourage the
growing of plants as separate discrete objects of ornament rather than as
Components of a Composition. It needs imagination and horticultural experience
to see the possibilities for richer, more Complex planting associations.
TREE CANOPY/SUB—CANOPY/SHRUB LAYER/FIELD LAYER: EDGE OR
MARGIN The edge of woodland and forest margins are often Characterized by
a gradation in Canopy heights from high woodland Canopy through smaller trees
and shrubs, dense tall herbs with dwarf or prostrate shrubs, down to grassland,
herbfield or open ground. This edge may be fixed by Climate, topography or the
management of adjacent land.The edge may advance as the woodland or forest
Colonizes open land, or it may recede as incursions are made by human activity
of natural destructive events. In all Cases, however, its Canopy structure and
Constituent species respond to the higher light levels and the greater exposure at
the edge than within.
Plant Assemblages 137
Figure 8.1 Three—layer canopy structures.
138 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 9.2 A landform—vegetation survey showing landscape character types.
information on each one reduced in order to emphasize quite particular qualities
of the site. This is sometimes called layer analysis. There needs to be a balance,
however, between how clearly an aspect is depicted and how much its
relationship to other aspects is explored.There is a danger in excessive separation
of site aspects or systems — that the exercise becomes one of reductive
‘anatomical’ analysis for its own sake.
If the total amount of data is not too great it could be summarized on a single
plan, or on a series of transparent overlays superimposed on the physical survey.
This method requires more graphic subtlety and skill, but has the advantage of
helping us to see, at a glance, the sum of the environmental and social factors
operating in any part of the site. Indeed, it is the interaction of these factors that
determines the design choices to follow. The decision whether or not to plant in
a particular location would be influenced by factors such as views, site history
and existing ground flora — a species—rich grassland community, for example,
would not survive under the increasing shade and different management in an
establishing plantation.
A Method for Planting Design 165
Throughout the process of gathering and organizing survey information we
exercise judgements about what it is essential to record, what can be ignored,
how much detail is needed and how reliable it is. In effect, we are judging the
likely implications of each site feature and factor for design. This kind of
interpretation becomes easier as we gain more experience of design and helps us
to avoid collecting too much information. So we need knowledge of what to look
for, such as indicators of different ground conditions, or likely sources of
pollution. However, much of the survey can be carried out by a less experienced
designer with basic guidance.
Although some interpretation takes place during the gathering of data, there is
a separate procedure of assessment and evaluation of the data and this forms the
next stage in the process.
The Landscape Assessment
EVALUATING INFORMATION The survey data must be analysed and
evaluated if we are to make sense of it and to use it in design.The purpose of
the landscape assessment is to uncover the full potential of the site and to
establish priorities for design. These priorities can become very important if
we need to defend our proposals in the face of conflicting interests or budget
cuts.
All landscape analysis requires selection. We must narrow down the field of
interest so that we can concentrate on the essential problems. It is a reductive
process in that we take apart the integrated whole of the site in order to
understand it and change it. For example, a visual assessment should identify,
mark on a plan and illustrate the key views, landmarks and perhaps zones of
distinct visual character. This is essential if we are to argue for the conservation
and utilization of the special qualities of the site. But the best analyses are those
that manage to assess the value of the different aspects of the site without losing
sight of the interrelationships between them. The effect of soil type on plant
selection would be modified by local climate, visual quality may be ultimately
connected to ecological diversity, and so on.
Some of the conclusions and recommendations that arise from the analysis
will be based firmly on scientific evidence and will be difficult to refute. Others
will be the result of judgement that is partly subjective. If these judgements are
well informed by our knowledge and experience this should help them to carry
sufficient weight with our client and colleagues. Many aspects of landscape
design are inaccessible to science because they cannot be quantified. In
particular, any attempt to evaluate the aesthetic qualities of a site will inevitably
include a measure of cultural and personal subjectivity. The response of different
people and different cultures to wildness, to enclosure and openness, even to
particular plant species, varies. As professional designers we sometimes need to
cultivate a degree of detachment in order to make informed judgements and to
help us understand the true character and spirit of the place, but we should
combine this professional distance with an awareness of our personal feelings
about the place. These personal responses give valuable information and often
help with design ideas.
OPPORTUNITIES AND PROBLEMS One of the best ways of coordinating the
findings of analysis is to summarize the main opportunities and problems
presented by the site and the brief. These might cross the boundaries of physical,
biological, cultural and visual aspects and so help towards an integrated
166 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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individual tree except saplings. Each tree is graded A, B, or C according to its landscape value.
A Method for Planting Design 167
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assessment of the site. Also, a problem can often be redefined as an opportunity
if it is perceived in an imaginative way. For instance, a nutrient—poor, dry soil,
would be a problem for establishing intensive horticultural planting but is an
opportunity to encourage a wide diversity of stress tolerant wild flowers in the
absence of competitive coarse weed growth.
Much of the success of planting design depends on the skill with which
different functions are integrated. Design that is mediocre is often caused by
thinking in a separate way about solving each problem in turn (‘separate
thinking’) rather than taking the chance to achieve different objectives at the
same time. A screen of hedging cypress, for example, is a screen and little else,
but a screen could also be an attractively diverse band of trees and shrubs that
provide an important wildlife habitat and needs only minimal maintenance.
168 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
A statement of design objectives and planting functions is valuable information
and should be fully utilized to communicate our intentions to the design team
and to the users. It is also a checklist to which we can refer and make sure that
no needs are overlooked and no opportunities wasted.
Synthesis — Generating and Organizing Ideas
Planting Policies
Whereas objectives are what we aim at, policies are the intended means of
implementing those aims. For example, an objective might be the improvement
of biodiversity, and in this case policies might include establishing typical
indigenous plant communities in a range of different habitats. So with the
drawing up of design policies we make our first proposals for the site. Policies are
necessarily general in nature, statements of intent that need interpretation to
translate them into actual design details. Policies should address the
opportunities and problems of the site.
How exactly do we arrive at design policies? In some cases it is an obvious step
from design functions. For example, if the site includes steep slopes that tend to
erode and if hard engineering solutions would be too costly or out of keeping
with the site character, a policy of bioengineering solutions to erosion problems
would be appropriate. Other policy decisions might require more imaginative
insights drawing on experience of a wide range of design solutions. Design
policies are often accompanied by preliminary design ideas — what might be
called an embryonic design concept.
The presentation of planting policies and initial design ideas can be an
important stage of consultation in larger projects. It is the first opportunity that
the client will have to consider the scope and nature, if not the details, of the
design proposals and we can gauge their response before we commit ourselves to
the development of those policies and ideas. Once policies are agreed with the
client we have a sound foundation for the design development stages that follow.
Design Concept
A design concept can be many things to many people. It can be a central,
generating idea that initiates the development of the design or the term can be
used to describe an abstract level of proposals in the decision—making process. At
root, a concept is an idea or group of ideas, which is understood as an integrated
intellectual whole, rather than merely an aggregation of facts.
Whatever its origins, the design concept should develop the policies and
should explore the spatial relationships between the various site uses and design
functions.The spatial organization of the concept can be expressed as a ‘bubble
diagram’ that shows the sequence, connections and hierarchy of spaces but not
necessarily precise location or scale. It is, in effect, a topological map of functions
for the site and a spatial interpretation of the brief. There may be many different
solutions and bubble diagrams are a useful tool for investigating alternative
spatial relationships, and for explaining these quickly and concisely to others.
A design concept provides an overview. It is a conceptual whole, connected by
ideas and still abstract in nature.The abstraction is valuable at this stage because
it allows us to handle large amounts of information and complex ideas
simultaneously, and facilitates rapid consideration of different solutions, without
the need to work laboriously through the details of layout and materials.
A Method for Planting Design
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Figure 9.5 Key elements of the landscape design concept for a new settlement, drawn up for presentation.The
drawing shows woodland structure, fenland country park and nature reserve, main open space structure, fields
managed in accordance with English Heritage requirements, golf course and key views.
170 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Schematic Planting Design
Once a concept has been explored, and we have found a good fit for the various
functions, we can develop it to the next level, which is more precise about design
elements, geometry of spaces, and zones of planting character on the site. To do
this, we maintain the spatial organization while responding to the physical detail
of the site. In practice, developing the spatial organization and the schematic
layout often go hand in hand, because various abstract spatial relationships can
be tested out in a schematic way on a base plan of the site area. The proposed
design is then based on the fit of functions to site as well as function to function.
To produce a schematic planting layout we locate the different planting types
(such as ornamental, naturalistic, habitat, shelter, screen and so on) and
determine the positions of the major elements of planting structure (such as
reforestation, hedges, copses and avenues). A realistic picture of the site is now
beginning to emerge that will explain the distribution of planting character and
define the location and size of the main spaces to be created. It is drawn to a scale
convenient for the size of the site. For a large site, this might be a scale of 121000
or 12500, for a smaller one, 12500 or 12200 scale. In order to avoid showing too
much detail, it can be helpful to show schematic proposals at a smaller scale than
the masterplan or sketch design to follow.
Masterplan
If the site is large (say greater than 1 hectare) and particularly if it includes a
variety of land uses, buildings or distinct vegetation types, it will normally require
a landscape masterplan. A masterplan represents an advance from schematic
proposals but is still a strategic (rather than detailed) level of design. Scale
depends on the size and complexity of the site but 12500 or 121000 is common.
The main difference between schematic design and masterplan is that the latter
commits us with more precision to an actual planting layout.The amount of detail
and the refinement that we can show is limited by the scale of the drawing, but it is
wise to avoid showing too much at this still early stage. Structure planting, avenues
and specimen trees can be positioned but the layout of ornamental planting should
only be shown in a notional way, even at 1:500 scale.These limitations are in fact a
very useful restraint, encouraging us to work out the spatial structure of the
landscape before elaborating the character and content of those spaces. It is
common for samples of more detailed areas to be illustrated on the masterplan at a
larger scale (say 12100 or 1:50) in order to indicate the proposed character.
The masterplan is, as its name implies, an authoritative design document. It should
always be discussed and agreed with the client and design team, and is often a key
drawing submitted to the local planners for their approval.This formal procedure can
be a useful discipline in the design process. It allows us to establish definitive patterns
of use and planting at a comparatively early stage of design, and by doing this we gain
agreement for the extent and location of at least the major planting areas.
Sketch Planting Proposals
Sketch proposals are drawn at a larger scale (often 1:500 for structure planting,
1:200 for general amenity planting and 12100 or 1:50 for detailed ornamental
planting) and they allow us to focus on the detailed composition and character
of the spaces that were outlined at the previous stage.To work at this larger scale
we may need to consider one part of the site at a time. If so, it is a good idea to
choose self—contained sections of the site.
A Method for Planting Design 171
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Figure 9.6 Schematic planting structure for a new woodland park on a landfill site.
Likely phasing of planting areas is shown.The survey of this site is shown in Figure 9.1.
In sketch proposals we can be precise about the degree of enclosure, shape and
proportion of spaces, the geometry and patterns within them and the location of
focal elements. It is also a stage when we can start to envisage the aesthetic
character and patterns of the planting. For example, an enclosure of given
proportions could be laid out with rectilinear or curvilinear patterns of hard and
soft surfaces, the planting within it could be minimal and modernist, dense and
‘sub—tropical’, loose and ‘cottagey’ or simple and formal.
172 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 9.7 Masterplan for a new woodland park on the landfill site. Note the
development from the schematic structure shown in Figure 9.6.
A Method for Planting Design 173
Secondary loolpollis
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Figure 9.8 Masterplan for a country park showing existing woodland and proposed structure planting which
will form a strong nature-like structure for recreation and conservation.
hndAap¢D«1i‘n/lxsocuzu
174 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 9.9 Masterplan for a regional park. This shows how different planting functions and types are
fundamental to the landscape structure of the site (see colour section).
In order to define the three—dimensional structure of the space we decide on
the height and habit of planting. Shrub planting should be defined as:
0 ‘tall shrubs’, that is, those that will grow above eye level (over about 2 metres
to give physical and visual enclosure), or
0 ‘medium shrubs’ that will grow above about knee level (about 0.5 to 2
metres), or
0 ‘low planting’, mostly below knee level (up to about 0.5 metres).
This distinction is useful because medium—shrub planting controls movement
and separates areas more firmly than low planting, which merely carpets or edges
the floor of a space. It can also be helpful to distinguish
shrub thickets (providing dense solid enclosure) from
open shrub planting (that allows some visual penetration), and
herbaceous plants where these form a large proportion of the planting (this
will affect the seasonal character of the vegetation and management
required).
I-lAK.r\R‘LN|ATA RANGES
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ENDGWED COLLEGE
A Method for Planting Design 175
EMDCIWED CDLLEGE
TA|.lPlF| MUUNTMN HOFIJ HOPIJ CAMPUS
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REGIONAL PARK
Figure 9.10 Sketch views of the structure planting in part of the regional park shown in the previous figure
(see colour section).
Tree heights and forms should be shown. Useful categories are
0 ‘tall trees’ (approximately 20 metres or more when mature) that require
plenty of room if they are to develop naturally and will become major
structural elements in any landscape,
0 ‘medium trees’ (approximately 10—20 metres mature height) that are more
easily accommodated in the urban landscape but are nonetheless of
comparable scale to many buildings and other structures, and
0 ‘small trees’ (approximately 5—10 metres) that can play an important
decorative and structural role within smaller spaces such as gardens and
courtyards but are generally subordinate to the built structures of the urban
environment.
It is interesting to compare those heights, which are selected by reference to the
human and urban environment, with the ranges common in natural plant
communities. ‘Tall trees’ corresponds roughly to canopy and emergent forest
trees, ‘medium trees’ to sub—canopy forest trees and ‘small trees’ to the
shrub/small tree layer. ‘Tall shrubs’ also corresponds to the forest shrub layer, or
to some secondary shrubland such as maquis in Mediterranean Europe, or fully
developed tall sub—alpine scrub, ‘medium shrubs’ are commonest in the upper
reaches of the sub—alpine zone, ‘sage brush’ or heath, ‘small shrubs’ and ‘dwarf
176 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 9.11 Sketch design for a residential courtyard. Note the use of colour to indicate arrangement of
groundcover species (see colour section).
A Method for Planting Design 177
urnnnln ul nenqxng
l mnzuuns Vrnntage Noaaland Shana car uafkknfi hay dlvxiiun pith: away from parunq
Figure 9.12 Sketch illustrations of planting proposals for an hotel development showing the structural role of
planting.
shrubs’ in alpine, exposed heaths, moors and coastal vegetation. So when we are
searching for, say, a small shrub for a planting scheme it is likely to come from,
for instance, sub—alpine or dry—land scrub.
A summary of the main height categories is shown below. In most projects we
will use just some of these categories as appropriate to the project and the scale
we are working at, or we might refine some categories further if they are a
particular focus of the design.
tall trees (above 20 metres),
medium trees (10—20 metres),
small trees (5—10 metres),
tall shrubs (2—5 metres) ,
medium shrubs and the taller herbaceous plants (0.5—2.0 metres),
low shrubs and herbaceous plants, including groundcover (up to 0.5
metres),
0 mown grasses and other turf plants.
It is usually best not to define the precise heights of proposed trees in metres on
a drawing because it is hard to predict this with much accuracy and because
different plants in the scheme will reach maturity at different times. It is helpful,
though, to draw the sketch plan and other illustrations in which the planting
appears as it would look about ten years after going in the ground. This is a
realistic timespan, because it is often within the client’s planning period.
Massed plantations are distinguished from individual or grouped specimens
and avenues. This is important for a number of reasons. First, the mode of
planting is related to function, for example, mass planting will be most effective
where screen and shelter are needed, small groups or individual specimens where
the visual function is more important. Second, it affects the growth habit and
appearance of the individual trees and of the whole plant association. Mass shrub
thicket, for example, produces rapid growth but results in drawn plants with less
foliage at lower levels of their canopy and in the interior of the association. Lastly,
the cost of establishing a tree or shrub will be much greater if it is planted as a
specimen rather than as part of a plantation, because of the cost of the nursery
stock and the amount of aftercare needed.
The management of trees will also affect their role in spatial composition and
so it should be clear whether they are to be pruned to produce a clean bole with
raised crown, or if they are to be pleached or trained, pollarded or coppiced, or
allowed to spread naturally.
It also helps to articulate the design if accent plantings or focal groups of trees,
shrubs or herbaceous plants and areas of bulbs are located and larger areas of the
178 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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of the character and scale of the planting.
most ornamental planting are distinguished from others of similar height range.
Labelling might include:
specimen tree,
pleached avenue,
coppiced tree and shrubs,
specimen shrub,
focal plant group,
ornamental shrub and herbaceous planting,
spring bulb drifts.
Much of this information can be communicated graphically on plan and
elevations, but notes will always be helpful. We use rapid freehand graphics in
pencil or sketching pen and try as many alternatives as possible. Three-
dimensional sketches, elevations, sections and plans will all help us to visualize
different kinds of enclosure planting, different layout patterns, and different
planting styles.
Note that the essential qualities of planting structure and character can be
decided without choosing particular species and that sketch planting drawings
are often presented without naming any species, but plans can be generously
illustrated with vivid sketches of important views and typical character.
Although not essential, we might have some of the key plants and associations
in mind from an early stage. At the sketch design stage it can be helpful to name
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large tree is drawn transparent to show the courtyard below (see colour section).
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180 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
some of these, particularly those that are to have a major structural role, such as
avenue trees, focal specimens or the dominant trees of a forest or woodland.This
will give a more detailed impression of the proposals and help inform the client
about the kind of plants suited to the site. It is best to limit the number of species
defined at this stage, however, to retain flexibility, and to avoid getting bogged
down in too much detail and ‘not seeing the wood for the trees’. Furthermore,
choosing the right species is time—consuming and most of it is best left until the
layout, structure and general character of the planting has been agreed.
Detailed Planting Design
We can now give full consideration to the choice and layout of species and
cultivars, and put together the details of plant communities and of characteristics
like colour, texture, form, and fragrance.To do this imaginatively and thoroughly
is an intensive task and it helps to deal with it in a number of steps.
CHOICE OF SCALE Detailed planting design needs to be done at a scale which
is large enough to plan detailed composition with ease. For framework, woodland
and out—field planting this is normally 12500 or 12250, for general amenity planting
12250 or 12200, and for detailed ornamental planting, 12100 or 1:50. This may
be the same scale as the sketch proposals and it is easiest if it is the same scale as
final working drawings will be. The right choice of scale will allow us to plan the
positioning of plants at a level of detail appropriate to the type of planting.
SPATIAL/HEIGH T STRUCTURE If the spatial composition of the planting is
the primary focus of the design, the next step is to develop more detail of spatial
form and enclosure over and above what was in the sketch design. We can work
out the geometry, proportions and shapes of grass and paved areas and of
planting and, within these, the make—up of planting and other structural
elements. It is helpful to do this both on plan and in elevation and section.
Axonometrics and other three—dimensional projections can be useful to give a
good sense of the scale and proportions of the proposals.
PLANTING CHARACTER AND THEMES We can now develop our ideas
about the character and themes of the planting in various parts of the site. This
will be closely linked to the planting concept and earlier design ideas can now be
explored in more detail. If, for example, the planting concept is historical, now
would be the appropriate time to carry out detailed research on the species and
varieties that were planted at a particular period, and to investigate present—day
sources of supply. We can also develop the mood of the planting: colourful and
dramatic, subdued and restful, or mysterious and exotic, and so on, and clarify
whether the plants need to be robust and resilient or could be more delicate and
horticulturally demanding. Specific planting themes might be developed based
on aesthetic characteristics like colour or scent, or on seasonal features, such as
autumn foliage or winter colour, or to fulfil a function like shade or habitat
creation.
A Method for Planting Design 181
PLANT PALETTE With knowledge of the growing conditions and with a
planting character or theme, we have narrowed down the field of possible plant
material to manageable proportions. This is a good stage to scan nursery
catalogues, reference books and databases and draw up a list or palette of plants
for use in detailed design. The essential criteria for choosing species can be
summarized as follows:
Habit and life—form
0 annual/perennial
0 woody/herbaceous
0 deciduous/evergreen
Growing conditions
0 likely temperatures
rainfall, ground water and irrigation
slope and aspect
wind exposure
shelter (provided, for example, by structures, land form and other plants)
light and shade (also provided e.g. by structures, land form and other
plants)
0 soil type (e.g. loam, clay, sand, chalk, limestone, peat)
0 soil nutrient level, drainage and depth
0 soil reaction (acidity or alkalinity)
Planting functions
shelter
screening
bioengineering
revegetation
wildlife habitat
ornament
haracter
indigenous
naturalistic
artificial
formal
informal
colours of flowers, foliage and fruits
aromatic foliage and scent
ornamental bark
seasonal display
OOOOOOOOOQOOOOOO
Examples of plants for different conditions, functions and aesthetic qualities can
be found in many plant databases, such as Helios (2002) and Trees and Shrubs
(2001), and reference books, including Palmer’s Manual of Trees, Shrubs and
Climbers (1994) for warm temperate climates, The Hillier Manual of Trees and
Shrubs ( 1991) for cool temperate areas, and Laurie Metcalf’s The Cultivation of
New Zealand Trees and Shrubs (1991).
A list of species and cultivars, drawn up before detailing the planting, speeds
up the design process by avoiding the need for detailed reference each time a new
plant is selected. It also helps to build a picture of the character and design
possibilities of the materials before starting to assemble them. A convenient way
of laying out a plant palette is by height, site zone and planting function. We can
then refer to the appropriate list when looking for, say, a small tree or a
groundcover plant for particular conditions and purpose.
182 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
1. Height categories and locations of
key accents in plan.
2. Abstract height, form and texture
study In elevation.
Figure 9.15 An example of planting composition studies.
A Method for Planting Design 183
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4. Species areas shown on plan.
184 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
COMBINING PLANTS The design of successful planting requires an intimate
knowledge of the form and growth habit of the species and, if the ornamental
function of the planting is a high priority, we must also be familiar with their
aesthetic characteristics. It is not easy to imagine the possible combinations and
permutations of all these. A way to develop the visual and spatial aspects of plant
associations is with composition studies.
COMPOSITION STUDIES These are rapid freehand line drawings, elevations,
sections or eye—level perspectives, and drawn roughly to scale. They help us to
visualize the intended composition from the common and important viewpoints.
They also help us to imagine alternative plant arrangements and avoid mistakes
in scale, edge treatments and the positioning of plants in relation to building
facades. They enable us to design as we draw and they can later be refined to
provide presentation visuals that accompany the plan.
Composition studies are developed in stages. First we select an integral
portion of the planting from a rough layout of height structure and transpose the
plant height categories into elevation at an approximate scale of 1:100 or 1:50 or,
for very detailed groupings, 1:20.The heights can be drawn diagrammatically to
begin with and then refined and developed to show the outlines of plant forms
and masses.
For ornamental planting the next step is to consider texture and colour. This
is often done in that order, but if colour is the dominant element in the
composition, it can be studied before texture. Texture can be drawn
diagrammatically using hatching of varying density and tone, or a more realistic
rendering of foliage and leaf qualities may be used to give an impression of the
qualities of line and leaf and stem detail. In either case, texture rendering can be
overlaid on the outlines of form.
Colour can be worked on a separate sketch or added to the form and texture
study. It can be drawn in media such as coloured pencil or pastels, or annotated
on the drawing. For many people colour is the most difficult aesthetic
characteristic to plan in advance. The natural colours of flowers, fruits and
foliage are so subtle and varied, and the visual effects of their juxtaposition can
be so surprising, that the only sure way to use plant colours is from experience
or directly on to the landscape itself. Arranging pot—grown specimens on site
while they are in flower is the surest way. We cannot always do this, but we can
keep a look—out for colour associations that work well and repeat or rearrange
these in our own designs.
Elevations and perspective sketches inevitably hide some of the planting. If
the planting area is broad or its internal composition is particularly
important, we should sketch cross sectional elevations through it at critical
points. These will show layers and groups of planting that could not be
appreciated in front elevation and is important for understanding the
opportunities for different canopy layers in woodland and larger scale
structure planting. Composition studies need not be drawn for every planting
area, but they provide a valuable design tool for dealing with the most
important and visible plant groupings.
CHOOSING SPECIES While sketching, suitable species from the select lists
might come to mind and can be labelled on the drawing. However, for a designer
without extensive plant knowledge it is better not to identify all species at the
time of drawing. It is usually easier to choose plants from our palette once we are
happy with the arrangement we have sketched. This sequence also allows us to
refine the composition by thinking through the effects of alternative plants, and
A Method for Planting Design 185
we can go back and redraw sketches with different plants before finally choosing
a particular species. It is a process of trying out until we find a good solution.
Not all plants can be identified and located on an elevation or section, plant
selection can only be completed on a plan, and a scale plan is essential to
communicate the detailed planting design to the landscaper who will implement
it. Only in plan can the whole site be seen at once, so composition studies need
to be transposed back into plan to form their part of the whole scheme.
Some designers like to work in plan from the beginning of detailed design,
perhaps because it saves time.To achieve good results in this way requires good
plant knowledge and an ability to visualize in three dimensions, so the use of
elevations or perspectives is generally recommended.
SEASONAL TABLES Composition studies help us to design with form and
space in three dimensions. We also need to design in the time dimension. The
appearance of plants changes through the seasons and some species only look
their best for short periods. For example, the leaves of some coloured foliage
plants, such as golden sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus ‘Worleei’) and golden
honey locust (Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’) look spectacular as they emerge in
spring but have faded to undistinguished green by midsummer. We can plan
planting to achieve attractive, simultaneous features as well as a succession of
interest. A way of doing this is with a seasonal table like the one below, showing
periods of flower, fruit, leaf colour, spring foliage colour or winter stem colour:
Table 9.1 Period of interest (northern hemisphere)
Species fan Feb Mar Apr May jun jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Cornus ‘Elegantissima’ - -stems - - - - - - x- - - - - - foliage - - - - - - - - x-autumn colour-
Pyracanzha ‘Mojave’ - -berries- -flower- - - - - - - - -berries- - - -
Betula pendula - - - -bark - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -autumn colour -
Vinca minor - - -flower - - - - - - - - - - - flower- - - -
Buddleja da-vidii - - -flower- - - -
By looking down the columns of such a table we can see what is happening in
any month of the year and check that there are no long periods with no interest.
A similar table could be drawn up to show only flower, if this is a key element
of the composition and requires detailed planning:
186 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Table 9.2 Period of flower (northern hemisphere)
Species fan Feb Mar Apr May fun ful Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Mahonia X ‘Charity’ ———— —— ———-
Crocus tomasinianus ———
Scilla sibirica ———
Muscari armeniacum ———-
Viburnum X burkwoodi ———— —-
Ajuga reptans ———-
Abutilon X suntense ———— —-
Clematis montana rubens —————
Syringa velutina ———-
Cistus ‘Sunset’ ———— —-
Thymus drucei ———— —-
Dianthus deltoides —————
Lavatera ‘Barnsley’ ——————— —-
Rosa ‘Iceberg’ ————————————— —-
Caryopteris X clandonensis —————
Nerine bowdenii ———-
The flower colour of each species could be noted on the line or shown with
coloured pencil or pastel.
PRESENTATION OF DETAILED PLANTING PROPOSALS A detailed
planting design proposal, including plan and sketch illustrations, can be
presented to the client, user groups and, if necessary, the planners. This will
explain the finer points of the design and it can be an important consultation
stage if the client or the users are interested in the horticultural detail. It can be
drawn in a semi—realistic style to give a vivid impression of the appearance of the
planting. The more distinctive plant species such as cabbage trees, palms, tree
ferns, hostas and such like should be recognizable in illustrations. Detailed
planting proposals can include the names of some species although the client and
users will often not have sufficient plant knowledge to recognize many of them
and so must trust the designer’s judgement. The local authority planners
responsible for the project, however, may require detail of species, stock sizes and
spacing so that they can approve the proposals.
If the client and users are less interested in the horticultural detail, which is
often the case with industry and other business organizations, the designer can
go straight from sketch design to the working drawings.The client will rely on the
designer to make sure that the agreed objectives and design idiom are realized
and will leave the detail of plant association to the designer.
Draft working drawings of selected parts of the site can, however, be included
with the sketch design proposals if required by the planners or client. These
would illustrate the range of species, density of planting and style of design, but
it should be made clear that they are illustrative samples and can be modified
before the final planting plans.
l«%rking Drawings
To implement the planting design we need working drawings (often called
planting plans) that include all essential information for the physical setting out
and the planting on site. A planting plan therefore needs to show:
A Method for Planting Design 187
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Species, stock sizes and planting densities are given but not numbers and locations.
188
The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
0
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Figure 9.17 Part of detailed planting proposals for an industrial site illustrated in cross section.
1. outline layout of buildings and hard and soft landscape, sufficient to locate
planting areas,
critical dimensions for the setting out of planting beds themselves,
dimensions for locating trees where they are close to buildings or services,
full scientific names of all plants and their locations,
density or spacing, and quantities of each species,
size or age of nursery stock, if this varies for any single species, otherwise it
can be confined to the plant schedule.
S3‘.°‘:‘*P°!°
Additional information is usually presented as a written specification and plant
schedule, which may be included on the drawing, if it is brief. However, it is often
best to keep the information on a planting plan to graphic essentials, because of
space and so that planting plans are easy to read, both in the studio and on site.
A specification and schedule on the drawing is only really suitable for small and
simple planting projects.
The function of a working drawing/planting plan is, at least in commercial and
public projects, to instruct the landscaper, rather than give a visual impression of
the established design. Being, in effect, a set of technical instructions, a planting
plan should be clear and precise without superfluous information or flourishes
(these should be reserved for the design presentation drawings). The best
working drawings are often those on which the information is pared down to the
bare minimum — sometimes called a ‘naked drawing’. An alternative view is that
planting plans can serve more than just the working drawing function and that
their style can be modified accordingly. For example, on private residential
projects there is often a need to combine the implementation drawing with an
explanation of planting details to the client. In this case, it makes sense to use
graphic technique that illustrates the size and character of the plants as well as
their positions. This sort of pictorial planting plan needs to be at a large scale to
be effective. A disadvantage is that it cannot show overlapping strata of vegetation
because the spread of a plant is drawn. It is hard to show on plan, for example,
a layer of groundcover below a drift of bulbs both of which are spreading under
the canopy of a tall shrub and trees above, at the same time as specifying the
positioning of all these kinds of plants. This leads to the tendency to design in
one layer only.
A Method for Planting Design 189
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low groundcover and approximate spread of medium and tall shrubs.
190 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Figure 9.19 Construction drawing for
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A Methodfor Planting Design 191
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aquatics. The beds shown are keyed into a location plan. Note the rectilinear shape of drifts which assists the
calculation of plant numbers and setting out.The angular shapes will be less noticeable on the ground and will
soon disappear as plants establish.
PLANTING PLAN GRAPHICS The best method of describing planting on a
working drawing will depend on the type and scale of the planting. There are
three basic techniques.
1. Individual locations
Locate individual plants with a dot, cross or other symbol.
2. Drifts
Delineate an area to be filled with a given number of plants of the same
species, at given spacing (centres abbreviated to c/s, ctrs. or c/c) or density
(per square metre abbreviated to /m2 or .m'2).
3. Mixes
Delineate an area to be filled with a mix of given numbers of plants of
different species at given spacing. Describe the method of distribution of the
different species.
It is unnecessary and cumbersome to show the positions of all the individuals
within a drift or mix, even on the largest scale plan; the way that plants are to be
arranged can be described in words or by graphic example. Distribution around
192 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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the full plant names and quantities annotated on the plan.
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mix. The proposals are for a private garden.
g6{ ufiisaq 3u]1u17[d aof poqlayy y
196 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
During the implementation frequent decisions are made by the designer to
interpret details of the design and to solve unforeseen problems that commonly
arise during operations.The implementation phase can also be a chance to refine
and, in some cases, to modify the design.There are good reasons of economy and
simplicity for adhering strictly to the working drawings, but in most cases
designers can, if they wish, instruct variations to modify the arrangement of
plants on the ground. In fact, it is accepted practice to omit the positioning of
some plants from the working drawings and to specify that they will be set out
on site by the landscape architect. This kind of flexibility is most needed when
there are aspects of the site or construction layout that are unknown at the design
stage. For example, the exact position of an underground service run may need
to be determined on site during the planting operations and only then can trees
be located at a suitable distance. Refinement can also be made for purely
aesthetic reasons.\Y/e may want to set out an important group of specimen trees
or shrubs ourselves, if their exact positions are critical for the composition.
Avenues and other formal planting are good examples of groupings whose
positioning must be at least carefully checked on site, if not set out by the
designer in person.
Establishment
The implementation of any planting scheme normally includes an establishment
or ‘aftercare’ phase following the actual planting. This lasts for a period between
one and three years, during which the contractor will make sure that the scheme
does not succumb to weeds, bad weather or pests during this vulnerable phase of
its life cycle. In a landscape contract the establishment phase is made up of two
parts: the contractor’s liability for plant failures (usually called the ‘Defects
Liability Period’) and paid aftercare work (usually called ‘Aftercare \Y/orks’ or
‘Maintenance \Y/orks’).
During the Defects Liability Period (DLP) any plants or other materials and
any problems arising from poor workmanship are put right by the contractor at
no extra cost. This includes replacing plant losses (‘beating up’) after each
growing season. In effect, the contractor guarantees a full complement of healthy
plants at the end of the DLP, subject to specified exclusions such as vandalism.
The Aftercare \Y/orks are made up of routine maintenance such as weed control,
watering, pruning, hedge clipping, grass cutting and litter collection. All these are
essential for successful establishment and without them, it would be
unreasonable to expect the contractor to guarantee the planting.
The main objective of the establishment phase is to achieve a closed canopy or
groundcover of vigorous, healthy plants.The aftercare period is also an excellent
time for the designer to take stock of the scheme’s success. Any need for
additional planting to strengthen should then become apparent. What is needed
may be no more than half a dozen transplants on a corner or another drift of
bulbs beneath a grove of trees but it can make a significant difference to the
impact of the scheme.
On some sites there can be uncertainty about which species will establish most
successfully. If this is so, it is only sensible to wait for one or two seasons to see
which are the best adapted and then to use them to thicken up the plantations
or beds. To give the flexibility to modify and add to the planting during the
contract we can set aside a sum of money to cover additional planting and to
make it clear to the client and the landscaper that this is a necessary and
anticipated part of the project.
A Method for Planting Design 197
Management
The full effect of mature planting envisaged by the designer will only be achieved
once the scheme has passed into the landscape management phase, and so
success depends on the landscape manager’s interpretation of the designer’s
intentions. The management phase of a planting scheme can be regarded as
starting at the end of the establishment period and continuing for as long as
vegetation exists on the site. It includes maintenance, that is, the regular,
repetitious tasks to keep the site clean and free from weeds and pests, and the
seasonal work of grass cutting, pruning and replacing occasional losses.
Management is also an important design tool. Indeed, many of the qualities of
richly planted landscapes owe as much, if not more, to creative management as
to the original design. By pruning, thinning, replanting and allowing selected
plants, even self sown ‘weeds’, to naturalize and spread, management shapes and
controls the development of the plant association. Pruning can encourage the
most attractive aspects of plant habit, or restrict some plants in favour of others;
thinning can remove some plants altogether to make way for others, or change
the structure and spatial characteristics of woodland by opening up glades or
reducing its density. Many plants that are essential to the long—term success and
character of a landscape, are best introduced once an initial nurse crop has been
established.These second stage species include many long—term forest trees, such
as the podocarps and slower growing broad—leaved trees of New Zealand forest.
The shade— and moisture—loving plants of the forest floor are also best introduced
at later stages. Examples of these include many vernal herbs of the deciduous
forest and ferns of the evergreen rainforest.
With the exceptions of the long—lived trees, all planting needs some kind of
regeneration within the foreseeable period of landscape management. This can
be allowed to happen spontaneously by providing the right conditions or we can
control the process by hard pruning, coppicing, pollarding or replanting chosen
species. Herbaceous plants and shorter—lived shrubs need dividing or replanting
at relatively short intervals of five to ten years. Longer—lived shrubs and trees do
not necessarily need attention in the short term, but it pays to develop a varied
age structure at an early stage in the life of the planting scheme in order to
prevent wholesale senescence at a later date. Finally, some of the most delightful
effects can come from the unexpected, spontaneous spread of both planted and
‘weed’ species, and it is sensitive management that allows and encourages the
right balance of control and spontaneity.
There is scope within landscape management for creative intervention and
periodic redesign. A designer’s sensitivity, if not a full design training, is an asset for
a landscape manager. Indeed, it may be essential if the designer’s full intentions are
to be realized. If this is not possible, there are ways we can, as designers, be involved
in management. The greatest control is achieved if we draw up a management
contract that specifies the operations to be carried out as well as the design
objectives.These operations are then supervised by the designer on site.
Management contracts are normally term contracts, renewable after a period
of between three and five years. This timescale will allow us to see at least the
shrub and herbaceous planting achieve maturity before the end of the second
management contract. By this stage, the tree planting will also be well on its way
towards an effective role in the planting composition even though it may not
reach full maturity until fifty to one hundred years after planting. After one or
two terms of a management contract, we can demonstrate to the client and
landscape staff what we are trying to achieve and, if necessary, hand over
responsibility with confidence that the design intentions are understood.
198 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
If we do not have the opportunity to supervise a management contract we may
be able to draw up a management plan that includes a specification and an
outline work programme for use by the landscape manager. This should include
a full explanation of the intended form and character of the planting as well as
the main operations required. It helps if we can arrange regular meetings with the
landscape manager to oversee the general direction of the management work and
help to make key decisions. If continuing involvement is not possible, we can
safeguard the investment of time and money that was made in a planting scheme
by making sure the landscape manager and staff are thoroughly briefed when the
site is handed over to the client at the end of the establishment period. This
briefing could take the form of an illustrated management report and a
discussion at which management staff can quiz the designer. Visits to mature sites
of a similar character can be very helpful.
Learning Through the Design Process
We have now followed the design process through inception, analysis, synthesis
and realization. The realization of our vision can be the most satisfying part of
the work; it is also the most edifying. To see our design on the ground and
growing towards maturity provides an invaluable opportunity to learn from our
successes and our mistakes.To assess the finished product is the best way to find
out if we have solved the problems and achieved our design objectives.
So design does not end with realization.We should feed the lessons from each
completed scheme into the process of the next project. In this sense, design is a
cycle. Observation and evaluation of a completed design can inspire and generate
ideas for the next. This creative cycle operates not only from one design project
to the next but also within the stages of the design process. It is a means to
generate ideas and select from alternative options. Both analysis and synthesis
play a part in this cycle. Laseau (2000) regards reductive and expansive types of
thinking as overlapping through the design process: ‘While the design process
involves decision making aimed at the reduction of alternatives in search of a
final solution, it also involves elaboration aimed at expanding the range of
possibilities.’ Decision making requires a focused, single—mindedness whereas
elaboration grows from the attitude of exploring for its own sake, for the fun of
it. Perhaps it is the ability to integrate these complementary frames of mind that
is the key to creativity. If we can allow them to coexist, to support and cross-
fertilize each other, then problem solving will become an adventure and inventive
exploration lead to creative answers to design problems.
PART 3
Practice
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CHAPTER 10
Structure Planting
Introduction
The third and final part of this book will look at the practice of detailed planting
design and answer questions such as: What range of plants is right for this kind
of planting? and, How can we put them together in an effective and imaginative
way? This will give us a basic repertoire of design techniques from which we can
select and adapt what we need for the design of different projects and sites. It is
beyond the scope of this book to deal with landscape techniques like ground
preparation and weed control and for this, the reader is referred to the many
good publications dealing with horticultural and arboricultural techniques.
Framework planting and ornamental planting deserve separate chapters
because the species most commonly used for each type, and the roles that they
play, are often quite distinct. Despite this distinction, there are important areas
of overlap between structural and decorative functions of plants and we need to
consider visual composition when detailing framework planting and to take
account of the space forming qualities of ornamental planting.
Forest and Woodland
In The Poetics of Gardens (1988), Moore et al. suggest that ‘planting a new tree is
one of the noblest acts of optimism’. As designers in the landscape, we have the
chance to establish trees by the thousand in new forests and woodlands. From a
long—term, environmental perspective this might be the most valuable part of our
work, especially in deforested landscapes such as in much of Europe and New
Zealand. New forest and woodland can range in scale from a small copse or
grove of a few hundred square metres to continuous forest of hundreds of
hectares, and it can be created in rural areas, on the city fringes or, increasingly,
within revitalized urban areas. The ‘urban forest’ and urban woodlands are of
particular importance and social value because they are close to and can form
part of the everyday lives of large numbers of people.
A note on terminology is appropriate at this point. ‘Forest’ and ‘woodland’
both have strict, scientific definitions in addition to technical meanings in the
forestry industry and broad colloquial use. In ecology, ‘forest’ refers to a plant
community dominated by tree species and which forms a mostly continuous
canopy at five metres or more in height. ‘Woodland’ refers to a dispersed
community of trees with other plants forming a characteristic component at a
lower level (such as, ‘coppice and standard woodland’, ‘savannah woodland’ or
202 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
‘wood—pasture’). In commercial forestry the term ‘forest’ refers to a plantation or
a naturally occurring forest used for production purposes. In lay use, ‘forest’ is
usually applied to tree—dominated communities of large extent (for example, the
‘primeval forest’ of Europe or the forests of Russia), whereas a ‘woodland’ refers
to smaller, but not necessarily more open, tree—covered areas, which are often
managed or used by people in some way. In this book we will use the terms in
their ecological sense, but will also allow for the common use of the term
woodland in Britain where it refers to smaller areas of trees, in both rural and
urban locations. In other countries, other terms are used. In New Zealand for
example, ‘bush’ has come to refer to any dense growth of native trees and large
shrubs, whether primary forest or secondary growth, and ‘forest’ is commonly
used in the commercial forestry sense.
Where is new tree planting taking place on a significant scale? Where is the
future tree structure of the landscape being established? In England, the new
‘National Forest’ in the Midlands, other regional forests, and woodland planting
associated with development — particularly roads and industry, have already
started to make a real difference. This planting is beginning to create a
substantial framework of tree covered land within which the changing economic
activity of the country takes place. We might call these areas ‘treeland’, to
distinguish them from woodland and forestry plantations and to acknowledge
the differences in origin and function.
New amenity forest and woodland planting are usually on a smaller scale than
commercial forestry, but none the less make a major contribution to the visual
and ecological qualities of the landscape. In the rural and urban fringe, such
planting is often associated with new development of some kind. This includes
recreational projects like country parks and visitor facilities for national parks;
these may give the chance to establish substantial areas of new woodland or
forest or the regeneration and revegetation of existing, degraded forest
communities. Industrial development in rural areas is another opportunity for
woodland or treeland planting, and a big contribution to tomorrow’s forest is
provided by the plantations established on reclaimed industrial land such as
industrial spoil and old quarry and extraction workings. In some cases, the land
purchase that is needed for new roads can leave enough area, not only for
highway verge planting, but also for adjacent blocks of reafforestation and
treeland. A further opportunity is provided by recent changes in agricultural
policy in Britain that encourage lowland forestry and woodland planting on less
productive farmland.
In urban areas the chances to establish new woodlands seem, at first sight,
more restricted for two main reasons. First, high land values create pressure for
land use with a substantial financial return. Second, public perception of the
‘urban forest’ (including urban woodland, and the ‘urban bush’) has focused on
the negative side, seeing it more as cover for attackers, drunks, drug takers and
rubbish tippers than as a habitat for wildlife and a place for relaxation and
recreation. However, these perceptions are changing with the growth of the
urban environmental movement and environmental consciousness in general,
and with successful examples of multiple use urban woodlands. Urban tree
planting of all scales and styles is now understood as an essential strand of the
‘urban forest’ — a fabric of trees and small woodlands that are interwoven with
buildings, roads and open areas.
In rural areas of European countries, landscape architects play a valuable role
in the design of timber plantations including advice on plantation location and
shapes, conserving existing vegetation, and establishing indigenous fringes and
frames to contain the crop species.
Structure Planting 203
Plate 138 Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) and
sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) woodland
has colonized and established itself in an
abandoned chalk quarry near the river
Humber, UK. Note the rich shrub and herb
growth beneath the trees.
Designing Forest and Woodland
When designing forest and woodland, there are a number of basic questions that
should determine the design approach, including which species to use and how
to arrange them.
{What Functions will the Forest or I«%odland Perform?
The most common and important functions include habitat creation, visual
amenity, recreation and microclimate improvements. These functions are the
main factors that decide what spatial structure and which species will be
appropriate.
{What Canopy Structure is Ultimately Required?
We saw in Part 1 that the distribution and density of canopy layers (strata) give
the forest its spatial qualities, and that these qualities in turn influence the
perception and use of the forest. Although the mature forest structure only
develops fully over many years, we need at the outset to choose the right balance
of species and arrange them so as to create the desired canopy structure.
Continuing management of this initial forest community, including second stage
planting, is an important part of developing the forest structure.
{What are the Soil and Climatic Conditions?
The growth conditions of the site are a further guide to species selection. Species
chosen need to be well suited to all aspects of the site’s environment so that we
can establish a vigorous woodland with an economic level of establishment and
management work.
204 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
{What Forest Species Already Grow Successfully Nearby?
If site conditions are similar to those on nearby land and if we want to reflect and
maintain the existing landscape character of the area, we can rely mainly on
locally proven species. We can broaden this palette in places, but remember that
new woodland plantations and forest revegetation sites are not the best place for
collections of unusual trees and shrubs.
We may be trying to establish planting on a site with unusual soil conditions,
such as derelict land, or there may be no existing woodland in the vicinity —
perhaps because the site lies in an urban area or because the tree cover of the
surrounding countryside has long been removed. In this case, we can study the
vegetation or planting of comparable sites elsewhere and look for
recommendations in the technical literature on our particular landscape
problems. It is usually possible to find some examples of spontaneous
colonization somewhere in the district — roadsides, neglected land, even gardens
can provide examples, however small, of how nature would revegetate if given the
chance.
How Will the Forest or Wbodland be Perpetuated?
The level of future management is a further consideration. If it seems likely, for
example, that little or no thinning and restocking will be carried out, then we
should anticipate this at the design stage by creating a plantation that will have a
better chance of surviving and regenerating itself without management.This may
mean sacrificing diversity and spending more time and money on the initial site
preparation, planting and mulching. On the other hand, an assured management
programme carried out by skilled landscape staff would allow rapid
establishment and a diverse and sustainable woodland or forest in the long term.
Once these questions have been answered, we can decide on and plan an
establishment strategy and draw up a plant palette for the planting. There are
strong arguments for confining this mostly to native and long naturalized species.
Forest and woodland are among the largest elements in the landscape and so
have a powerful effect on the character and qualities of both the rural and the
urban scene. Large tracts of exotic species often appear foreign to the
surrounding landscape and at odds with the essential spirit of the place,
especially in rural settings. A further reason is the pressing need to protect and
extend the habitats available for wild plants and animals. By establishing native
forest and woodland, which are among the richest indigenous ecosystems, we can
help improve both the extent and the diversity of wildlife.
Although native trees and shrubs are generally the most valuable for creating
wildlife and reflect the indigenous character of our landscapes most strongly,
many exotics are none the less familiar in the rural landscapes of many countries,
even in the wilder parts. Although they rarely support as many species of insect
and other fauna as native trees and shrubs, many introduced species do provide
food and shelter for wildlife and so can be useful for conservation alongside true
natives. In particularly difficult soils and climatic conditions, some exotics may
be easier to establish than natives and, where there is an economic incentive, this
often leads to their widespread planting. For example, Acer pseudoplatanus and
Larix decidua are frequently planted and provide valuable shelter in exposed,
upland landscapes of England; and Cupressus macrocarpa and Pinus radiata are
used to create tall shelter hedges across the windswept Canterbury Plains of New
Zealand where native trees are slow to establish.
Structure Planting 205
Some exotics are well enough suited to their new conditions to be able to
naturalize and spread. Examples of trees that have naturalized in parts of
England include Spanish chestnut (Castanea sativa) Turkey oak (Quercus cerris)
and Norway maple (Acer platanoides). Some exotic species, such as sycamore
(Acer pseudoplatanus) and Rhododendron ponticum, have colonized with such
vigour that they have spread at the expense of native plants and wildlife habitats.
In New Zealand, the unique indigenous and largely endemic flora is unusually
vulnerable to displacement by exotic species, and many introduced species, such
as Pinus radiata, gorse, broom, Albizia lophantha and some Acacia species, are
regarded as serious pest plants in certain areas. Great care should be taken not
to contribute to the even wider spread of pest species.
In the past, techniques of establishing woodland and forest were based on
methods adapted from commercial forestry and combined, in some cases, with a
more horticultural approach of the kind employed by the larger private estates.
These techniques included using short—term, nurse trees planted at the same time
as slower growing species; the use of seedling transplants widely spaced in regular
rows; and a restricted range of species. More recently, techniques of design and
establishment based on ecological principles and objectives, inspired by the
pioneering ecological parks and plantings in The Netherlands, have been adopted.
Ecological, or naturalistic planting as it is often called, has since been developed
and refined with considerable success and the design of forests, woodland, scrub
and shrubland has, as a result, become much more sophisticated.
There are occasions when a simple monoculture, such as a group of totara, a
grove of Scots pine or a beech ‘hanger’ on the crest of a hill, is a good design
solution. At other times, we want the kind of diversity of appearance, structure
and wildlife habitats that ecological planting can produce. The level of diversity
in a forest community is often characteristic and typical of the natural forest of
an area. We see this if we compare the complexity of the lush, ‘subtropical’,
lowland rainforests of northern New Zealand with the simple structure and
composition of the beech forests of the eastern South Island, or with the pure
stands of kahikatea (Dacrycarpus dacrydioides) that once towered over the
lowland swamps. So, the amount of diversity we are aiming for should reflect
both means of establishment and the best aspects of local character.
Another important element of our strategy is the staging of the planting. In
some cases all the planting is best done in one go and the plantation then
managed over a period of years to allow the slower growing and less competitive
species to establish. If there is going to be an opportunity for a second stage of
planting, this may be the best time to introduce species that need more sheltered,
shaded and protected conditions. The second stage planting often takes place
once the pioneer or nurse trees and shrubs have created a protected partly
shaded growing environment in glades and below their canopy. The time
between stages one and two can be as little as three years under favourable
conditions and intensive management, and as much as twenty years where
growth is slow and difficult.
Planting Mixes
The basic unit of forest and woodland design is the planting mix. This is the
mixture of trees and shrubs that are planted in a particular area. These species
will occupy different niches in the plantation as it matures and only some of them
are likely to remain part of the plant community when it reaches maturity.
Most new forests and woodlands benefit from more than one planting mix. In
fact, a plantation can consist of a mosaic of different mixes reflecting different
206 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
conditions and functions in the forest. The constituents of each mix will be
carefully selected to suit the ground and microclimate in different areas and to
provide the desired canopy structure for different parts of the forest. From a
design point of view it is useful to categorize mixes, first by canopy structure and
then according to environmental conditions.What follows is a sample of planting
mixes covering the main types of framework planting. As in Chapter 8, we will
illustrate principles with contrasting examples from Europe and New Zealand.
High ForestIHigh Canopy Woodland
Approaches
High forest and high canopy woodland are communities in which the dominant
trees are tall forest species, usually of at least 15 but commonly 20 or more
metres height, and which represent a mature phase of forest development rather
than early colonizing and pioneer communities. A high canopy mix that will
ultimately provide the inner core of mature woodland or forest is often called a
core mix. This can contain, at time of planting, the species that will eventually
form one, two or more canopy layers.
Approaches to establishing high forest communities on open land differ
according to the ecology of the species concerned. In some kinds of temperate
forest, such as New Zealand montane southern beech forest and the European
oak woods it is possible to plant at least some of the trees that will eventually
form the dominant canopy at the outset. They can be combined with a selection
of co—dominants, sub—dominants and shrubs and, with appropriate management,
will develop over, say, fifty years into a forest community. In other regions and
In this high canopy oak woodland
Plate 140 This high canopy oak (Quercus robur)
(Quercus robur) a cross—section of three—layered
woodland structure has been revealed by felling in
preparation for road construction. An understorey of
shrubs including elder (Sambucus nigra) and hazel
(Corylus a-vellana) is well developed and clearly
distinguishable below the oak canopy. Beneath the
shrubs a field layer of bramble (Rubus fruticosus),
honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) and shade-
tolerant herb species can be found although its
density is limited by the shade cast by the two strata
above it (Nottinghamshire, UK).
wood, which is located in a country park,
demonstrates a two—layer structure. The understorey
is largely absent but a field layer of grasses and other
herbs is well developed.The spatial qualities are
quite different to those in a three—layer wood and the
openness beneath the tree canopy is well suited to
informal recreation use by comparatively large
numbers of people (Nottinghamshire, UK).
Structure Planting 207
with other forest types, such as the podocarp—broadleaved forests of New
Zealand, successional factors are more important for successful establishment
and many of the ultimate forest dominants are best introduced once favourable
growing conditions have been created by pioneer or nurse communities.
Even in the case of deciduous oak or European beech woodland, there are
arguments for excluding the future dominant trees from the initial planting,
especially the slower growing species such as pedunculate and sessile oak, beech
and hornbeam. Landscape architect and conservationist Chris Baines ( 1985), for
example, suggested that
We should allow for much more natural colonization. Instead of attempting to
produce native woodland in one stage I am convinced results would be far
better if initially we established dense scrub, and so created a sheltered
woodland environment at ground level. There is hardly a site in Britain that
would not naturally acquire climax species, such as oak.
This approach is ecological in that it follows more closely the sequence of
spontaneous regeneration and succession. It is also true that the majority of
dominant high canopy trees and shade tolerant understorey species establish
more successfully after a pioneer community has first colonized the ground.This
is particularly noticeable on inhospitable sites where the shelter, shade and
improved soil that pioneers can provide are especially valuable.
To establish high forest communities using a successional approach we would
start by establishing a scrub or low forest community and then introduce the
final dominant forest species as second stage planting or seeding, once the
pioneer planting had created the right conditions. We will discuss this further
Plate 142 Natural colonization of forest tree and
shrub species in sheltered semi—shade under an old
manuka stand.The manuka is even aged and
colonized following the destruction of the original
forest by fire (Orongorongo range, nearWellington,
New Zealand).
Plate 141 New Zealand forest establishing vigorously from planted stock including the more light tolerant
podocarps such as rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum — seen here with the pendulous foliage) and totara (Podocarpus
totara). Pioneer tree and shrub species tree ferns and ground ferns were also included in the original planting.
(University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.)
208 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
under the sections on design of low forest and scrub mixes (pp. 222—9). One
issue with this approach, however, is the time lapse before high canopy trees start
to colonize. Even if pioneer trees and scrub are planted and managed to
encourage quick establishment, it is generally some time between 10 and 50
years before conditions are right for colonization by the species that will succeed
them.Yet as Chris Baines points out, this delay ‘hardly matters if we are realistic
about the time scale of oak woodland’ and the pioneer community will have its
own value and character in the mean time. His comments are also very relevant
to other forest types. For example, the dense manuka (Leptospermum scoparium)
scrub that develops on burnt areas in New Zealand, begins to degenerate after
15 to 20 years, and at this stage larger and longer lived forest species establish.
Notwithstanding the ecological arguments, it is feasible to establish many
forest trees including oak, beech, ash and lime, at the outset, given adequate soil
and microclimatic conditions. European oak and ash, in fact, are not only high
forest dominants but can also act as natural pioneers in low fertility grasslands,
where their large seeds provide the food store to grow above competing herbs. In
New Zealand, the southern beeches or tawhai (Nothofagus sp.) colonize open
areas such as slips, road cuttings and riverbanks. So there is an ecological
precedent as well as a practical reason for including forest trees such as these in
the initial planting and accompanying them with some plants from the other
forest layers.
Layer Components
In much of Britain and parts of north—west Europe, high canopy woodland
would be dominated by trees such as:
pedunculate and sessile oaks (Quercus robur and Q. petraea),
European ash (Fraxinus excelsior),
European beech (Fagus sylvatica),
Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris),
sycamore (Acer platanoides),
hornbeam (Carpinus betulus),
large and small leaved limes (Tilia platyphyllos and T cordata).
Any of these species can be used as key components of a planting mix. The
choice will depend on the local ecology and site conditions.
Smaller trees, which do not attain the full height of the forest dominants and
are often referred to as sub—dominants, include:
rowan (Sorbus aucuparia),
field maple (Acer campestre),
gean (Prunus atzium),
wild service tree (Sorbus torminalis).
Within the woodland interior, these grow most vigorously in canopy gaps. The
more shade tolerant such as rowan, field maple and wild service tree grow well
below the canopy of the dominant trees where shade is not too dense.
The ‘shrub layer’ will consist of shade tolerant shrubs and small trees of
shrubby habit. In Britain, according to area, these would include:
Structure Planting 209
hazel (Corylus avellana),
holly (Ilex aquifolium),
box (Buxus sempervirens),
wild privet (Ligustrum tzulgare),
elder (Sambucus nigra),
midland thorn (Crataegus oxycantha),
common hawthorn (C. monogyna).
In special locations more unusual shrubs like butcher’s broom (Ruscus aculeatus)
and laurel daphne (Daphne laureola) might be appropriate if suitable stock can be
found. In established woodland the shrub layer often includes large numbers of
tree saplings, especially of the more shade tolerant species such as European
beech and sycamore. Having germinated and established as far as the sapling
stage, they cannot progress further (or only very slowly) and so they wait for a
gap to appear in the canopy so they can continue their growth under better light
conditions.
The third stratum that is useful for the designer to consider is the herb or field
layer. In established forest and woodland this normally includes a high
proportion of herbaceous species but shade tolerant, low and scrambling shrubs
also form a significant part. Some of these field—layer shrubs could be included
in planting, provided they are given particular attention in aftercare and
management (this will be discussed later).These include:
0 bramble (Rubus fruticosus),
O ivy (Hedera helix),
0 honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum).
Herbaceous field—layer species cannot be successfully established until the
woodland structure is well developed and the right conditions of shade and
shelter exist at ground level.
Nurse Crops
An established method of assisting the establishment of slower growing and more
demanding species is the use of a ‘nurse crop’ consisting of fast growing trees
(usually pioneer species). Nurse trees include:
birches (Betula pendula and B. pubescens),
alders (Alnus glutinosa,A. incana and A. cordata),
larches (Larix kaempferi, L. decidua and L. X eurolepis),
willows (Salix species),
poplars (especially 1? tremula).
These are normally planted with the intention that they will be removed after
7—20 years when they have done their task, to allow the long—term components of
the mix to flourish. In commercial forestry the nurse crop may also be a source of
early financial return. In landscape plantations they can provide rapid height and
bulk, for example, where screening or shelter is a priority. Although fast—growing
nurse and pioneer trees are planted mainly for their early impact, selected groups
can be retained during thinning operations to add to the species and structural
diversity of the mature woodland. A dense grove of birch or willow among
stands of oak and ash can increase both the habitat and visual interest of the
wood.
210 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
The close planting of nurse and long—term species can, however, create
difficulties.The high canopy dominant trees are slower to establishment than the
nurse species so they need to be arranged so that the quick growing trees and
shrubs do not suppress their growth in the early years. At the common landscape
tree spacing of 1—2 metre centres, a nurse crop will soon begin to shade and
suppress slower growing trees and shrubs with their vigorous spread and dense
foliage unless frequent attention is given to thinning and cutting back. (Although
species like birch and aspen are pioneers and naturally give way to oak, beech
and other climax species in many successions, this second wave of colonizers
normally establishes below gaps once the pioneer canopy has thinned with age.
In small glades and under the thin canopy of older trees, conditions near ground
level are light enough for seedlings of many of the climax species but still too
shady to allow widespread regeneration of the more light demanding pioneers.)
A second problem is that vigorous, established nurse trees are not always easy
to eliminate. All the species mentioned above, except larch, regenerate freely
from cut stumps and the resulting re—growth is bulky and rapid. Unless this
‘coppice’ is cut regularly it will continue to be highly competitive and will
ultimately form large, multi—stemmed trees. The stumps of felled trees can be
killed with herbicides but the large—scale use of these powerful chemicals is
discouraged due to the danger to operators, other plants and wildlife.
Mechanical stump removal by grubbing out or grinding is difficult in the
confined space of the plantation. In addition, simply felling nurse trees that are
likely, at that stage, to be the largest in the plantation, can be difficult without
causing damage to other trees and shrubs.
To avoid these difficulties it is best to omit very vigorous nurse species from
the woodland core altogether and rely on shrubs and trees of more moderate
growth rate to give early visual effect and shelter.
Ash (Fraxinus excelsior),
gean (Prunus atzium),
rowan (Sorbus aucuparia),
elder (Sambucus nigra), and
hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna)
all make good growth in the early years provided that exposure is not too harsh,
and will give protection for species such as oak, beech and lime.
Alternatively, the nurse species can be segregated from the long—term
components of the mix to avoid excessive competition and allow easier
management. This principle is employed in forestry where the nurse and main
crops are planted in separate rows so that at the first thinning the nurse trees can
be easily felled and removed to leave space for the spread of the main crop. The
appearance and spatial qualities of such a regular planting grid would be quite
out of character for many landscape plantations, so more sophisticated irregular
distributions are often used. Nurse species can be grouped in variable blocks or
bands to allow easier thinning and to maintain gaps between their massed
canopies.These gaps become glades where the slower growing species can thrive
in the comparatively light and sheltered microclimate.
Developing a Planting Mix
Let us now look at some examples of core mixes that include several canopy
layers and a variety of species in each. We will use a high forest core mix to
demonstrate a method of determining proportions, grouping and spacing of
Structure Planting 21 1
Plate 143 This Surrey (UK)
woodland is being managed as
coppice and standard. It can
be seen from the age of the
standard oak that it is still in
its early years. The coppice
layer consists mainly of
Spanish chestnut (Castanea
sati-va) and rowan (Sorbus
aucuparia) . The birch (Betula
pendula) in the foreground has
also been cut back and is re-
growing strongly.
species. It must be stressed that all the mixes suggested are intended to illustrate
the method of design and should not be taken as standard mixes for use in actual
projects. Every site is different and every plantation must be designed afresh with
full knowledge of all the site’s conditions.
To illustrate the design of a high canopy woodland mix, we will first assume a
planting site in lowland southern Britain, reasonably sheltered and with a moist
clay or loam soil. This is the kind of land that under natural conditions would
eventually support mixed pedunculate oak woodland. It would be almost
impossible, and certainly unnecessary, to install all the components of the mature
vegetation at the outset, but by studying the local vegetation we can learn which
species are best for initial planting in the local conditions, and their compatibility
with one another. Many successful mixes are based on existing indigenous
communities, but modified to allow for design objectives and the needs of plant
availability and implementation.
Constituents of the Mix
The dominant canopy could consist of pedunculate oak (Quercus robur) mixed
with smaller numbers of co—dominants such as hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) in
the south and east of England. Sub—dominant trees associated with oak are field
maple (Acer campestre) and gean (Prunus atzium) and sometimes rowan (Sorbus
aucuparia) or crab apple (Malus syltzestris). Some of these could be included.
Shrub—layer planting might consist of hazel (Corylus avellana), holly (Ilex
aquifolium), and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) or midland thorn (Crataegus
oxycantha), all of which are common in the interior of oak woods. Midland thorn,
however, is difficult to obtain in its typical form in the nursery trade but elder
could be substituted if it is necessary to maintain a high level of diversity in this
layer.
The field layer of an established oak woodland would be likely to include
bramble (Rubus fruticosus), honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum) and ivy (Hedera
helix) in addition to numerous herbaceous species. Because of chemical weed
control techniques often used in young plantations and because of their rampant,
scrambling habits, it is not always easy to successfully establish field—layer shrubs
at the outset. However, if more labour intensive management can be provided
during the establishment phase this would allow the extra care necessary to avoid
herbicide damage, and regular cutting back will ensure that bramble and
honeysuckle do not smother adjacent trees and shrubs before they are strong
enough to outgrow the scramblers. Also, bramble is rarely available from
212 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
nurseries and so it is best transplanted in small quantities as stolons from a local
source. Ivy is difficult to establish in very young plantations because of its low
spreading evergreen foliage. This makes it particularly susceptible to herbicide
damage and it needs a rather different approach to weed control than is suitable
for mass planting of young trees; it is probably best introduced at a later stage.
Herbaceous species (such as primrose, bluebell, wood anemone, wild garlic
and parson in the pulpit) cannot establish until the plantation has reached early
maturity and conditions are sheltered and shady with some bare ground. At this
stage they can be introduced by seeding or by planting pot—grown material if they
do not colonize spontaneously from local sources.The herbs that would succeed
in the conditions of the establishment period of the plantation will be highly
competitive species such as coarse grasses, docks and nettles and would
constitute serious competition for the woody transplants.
Our high forest core mix might thus comprise the following, but please note
that all mixes illustrated in this book are necessarily hypothetical and intended to
be illustrative only. They should never be copied on an actual site. The detailed
ecology of each site must always be thoroughly understood before finalizing any
planting of indigenous species:
Dominant trees: Quercus robur (pedunculate oak)
Carpinus betulus (hornbeam)
Sub—dominant trees: Acer campestre (field maple)
Prunus atzium (gean)
Shrub layer: Corylus avellana (hazel)
Ilex aquifolium (holly)
Crataegus monogyna (hawthorn)
Sambucus nigra (elder)
Field layer: Rubus fruticosus (bramble)
(subject to management) Lonicera periclymenum (honeysuckle)
In this mix Prunus atzium, Sambucus nigra and, to a lesser extent Acer campestre,
are the fastest growing species and can act as a nurse in the early years. Because
of its early vigour Sambucus can inhibit the establishment of trees such as Quercus
and Carpinus and so regular coppicing will probably be needed to make sure the
slower growing species have enough space to develop.
If a simpler canopy structure is wanted, the understorey can be omitted and
the remaining strata simplified by reducing the number of species present. A
plantation of just two species could eventually form a woodland of simple but
none the less memorable character. Beech and birch, for example, are species
that often form attractive woodland monocultures. However, if we are going to
rely on just one or two species we need to be very confident of their ability to
succeed on the site. It is often wiser to include a range of species as an insurance
against poor establishment by some of the mix.
An example of the woodland core mix without the understorey might be (site
conditions as before):
Dominant trees: Quercus robur
Fraxinus excelsior (ash)
Sub—dominant trees: Prunus atzium
Acer campestre
Structure Planting 213
Field layer: Rubus fruticosus
(subject to management) Lonicera periclymenum
This mix gives four tree species and so a reasonable level of confidence of success
and would eventually form a mixed tree canopy above the ground layer.
Honeysuckle, bramble and other self—sown species would scramble on the
ground and honeysuckle would clamber up the well lit trunks. This ‘woodland
room’ structure would be ideal if views through the woodland are wanted or if
easy access beneath the canopy is needed.
A different structure again would consist of clear distinction between high tree
canopy and dense shrub layer. This would be created by omitting the sub—
dominant trees that bridge the gap between the dominant trees and the shrubs.
In addition the shrub layer could be regularly coppiced (that is cut hard back to
near ground level, in order to produce multi—stem regrowth) to give dense, bushy
growth and prevent the shrubs from being drawn into tall spindly specimens.
Almost all deciduous shrubs can be safely cut down to near ground level but
species that respond particularly well to coppicing include Corylus, Sambucus,
dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) and guelder rose (Viburnum opulus). Not only
shrubs but trees such as Fraxinus, Carpinus and Spanish chestnut (Castanea
sativa) also respond well to cutting back and so might be included to form part
of the coppiced layer. Traditional British coppice and standard woodland was
managed primarily for the production of ‘underwood’ from cutting the coppice
(for example, hazel and Spanish chestnut) and from the less occasional felling of
mature standards (often oak). If the high canopy is not too dense this woodland
structure is very beneficial for wildlife due to the diversity of light and shade in
clearings and thickets that is produced by the rotational cutting of sections of the
shrub layer.
A high canopy/shrub layer mix for the same site as our pedunculate oak
woodland, suitable for coppicing (but not aimed) at economic return would be:
Dominant trees: Quercus robur
Fraxinus excelsior
Coppice shrub layer: Corylus avellana
Sambucus nigra
Cornus sanguinea
Prunus spinosa
Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa), although intolerant of dense shade, can be included
if the tree canopy is to be open enough to allow high light levels in some areas.
It is a valuable component of dense understorey because it forms spreading
thickets and provides good nesting cover.
If coppice trees are to be included in the understorey the mix could be
modified as follows:
Dominant trees: Quercus robur
Fraxinus excelsior
Coppice layer: Crataegus monogyna
Corylus avellana
Carpinus betulus
Fraxinus excelsior
The four mixes above show how species selection will create a variety of different
214 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
woodland structures. Note that the number of species in each mix varies from six
to ten — this may seem a small number for a whole woodland, but the plantation
will usually consists of several mixes, so the total number of species planted could
be two or three times that in the core mix alone. Also, other trees and shrubs will
colonize as the plantation establishes and add to the richness of the woodland
community.
Woodland management is vital for the structural development of forest and
woodland. At the time of planting our main task as designers is to provide a range
of species that can be easily managed to produce the desired forest or woodland
association and structure. Not just the choice of species but also their relative
proportions in the mix and arrangement on the ground influence the
management requirements and the ultimate spatial structure of the wood.
Mix Proportions
Because of their eventual size high forest trees can form a dominant canopy from
a relatively small number of plants. In traditional coppice and standard
woodland, for example, the number of mature standards could be as low as 12
per acre, that is 30 per hectare (Tansley, 1939). This produced a very open
canopy that ensured that the underwood would flourish. A denser canopy of, say,
45 trees per hectare would produce a more enclosed woodland or forest
character. To create this final tree spacing we could include the dominant species
at 10 per cent of the planting mix, space plants at 1.5 metre centres and assume
that approximately one in ten of the transplants will grow to maturity. One way
of doing this would be to plant groups of ten oak and ten hornbeam at intervals
across the plantation core and aim to manage these so that at least one tree of
each group grows to maturity. This would give mature dominants at
approximately 15 metres spacing.
Of course, we are not necessarily aiming for regular spacing nor for a precise
spacing of mature trees. In fact, we may well want to encourage a lot of variation
in distribution, so these figures are intended only as an explanation of initial
proportions and spacing. They show that 10% can be an adequate starting
proportion for the largest tree species. If we want to favour oak as the commonest
tree and include hornbeam as its associate, we could give them mix proportions
of 7.5 per cent and 2.5 per cent, respectively.
Holly, because it is slow growing and comparatively expensive, is often kept to
a small proportion, about 5 per cent. The ground layer brambles and
honeysuckle should also be small in numbers due to their propensity to compete
vigorously with the trees and shrubs in the early stages. A total for these two of
5 per cent would be enough to introduce them into the plantation so that, if
conditions are favourable later, they will spread to occupy their natural niche.
This leaves 80 per cent of the mix to distribute between the remaining shrubs
and smaller trees that, being quicker to establish, will make up the bulk of the
woodland in its early stages. Twenty per cent for the smaller overstorey trees
would be enough to introduce diversity into this layer when it begins to
differentiate from the shrubs. The understorey shrubs are then left with 20 per
cent of the mix each. On this basis, the proportions would be as follows:
Structure Planting 215
Table 10.1 High canopy woodland mix
Dominant trees: Quercus robur 7.5 %
Carpinus betulus 2 . 5 %
Sub—dominant trees: Acer campestre 10%
Prunus atzium 10%
Shrub layer: Corylus avellana 20 %
C rataegus monogyna 20 %
Ilex aquifolium 5%
Sambucus nigra 20%
Field layer: Lon icera periclymenum 2 . 5 %
R ubus fruticosus 2 . 5 %
1 0 0 %
Spacing and Setting Out
A glance into a woodland glade with regenerating oak or at drifts of birch or sallow
colonizing open ground will quickly show the prodigious abundance of seed and
seedlings that nature provides. It is common to see multi—stemmed saplings
coming from several seeds germinating in one location and single seedlings only
a few centimetres apart. This apparent extravagance is not only an insurance
against losses but it also helps give the seedlings an advantage over competing
herb species and the mutual competition increases their growth rate. Even
comparatively light foliaged trees such as birch will, in close—knit young clumps,
soon cast enough shade to suppress grasses and ‘weeds’.The mutual competition
also results in self—thinning, and the selection of the most vigorous young trees.
When establishing forest and woodland the closest we can come to imitating
spontaneous regeneration is by direct seeding of trees and shrubs. If we use the
more traditional method of planting nursery grown transplants the principles of
‘over provision’ and beneficial competition still apply. With sufficiently close
initial spacing, the young trees and shrubs will quickly reach the size at which
they form a near continuous canopy that suppresses weed competition and
accelerates their own growth rate. In practice, the choice of spacing is
determined by the need to find the right balance between costs at planting and
the cost of establishment and management work later. Dense initial planting will
quickly give a closed canopy that reduces the need for weed control and beating
up but will need earlier thinning to avoid drawn and whippy plants. Wider
spacing of trees and shrubs at planting will postpone the need for thinning but
will also extend the vulnerable period during which intensive maintenance is
needed and before an equivalent visual impact is achieved.
Practice suggests that a spacing of 1—2 metres gives reasonably quick
establishment without incurring excessive management costs. In cool temperate
Europe, under good growing conditions, a planting spacing of 1 metre will give
a more or less closed canopy after two or three growing seasons and 2 metre
spacing would probably extend this to five seasons. These establishment periods
are much influenced by soils, microclimate and variations in weather conditions,
especially rainfall in the growing seasons. Under average conditions with no
particular impediments to growth, plant spacing of 1.5 metres is a good
compromise. Perhaps surprisingly, this applies to a variety of climates and not
just north—west Europe; in other regions the growth rates may be different, but
216 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 10.1 Part of a drawing showing woodland planting on a power station
pulverised fuel ash reclamation site. Note the use of tables to show plant numbers in
each plantation area in an economical way. Species are to be randomly mixed within
each mix area.
the relative growth rates of weeds and stock remain comparable and so similar
spacing allows effective establishment.
If rapid impact is needed or if the environment is particularly harsh, spacing
might be reduced to 1 metre or, in extremes, to 0.75 metres. If the
implementation budget is low and there is no urgency for a visual effect, 2 metres
apart could be adequate.
A simple approach to setting out would be to intimately mix together all the
transplants (in their given proportions) and then to plant this mix at constant
spacing across the plantation area. This would give, in theory, a plantation in
which each species is evenly spread throughout and intimately mixed with the
others. For this approach the schedule to go on the planting plan would be as in
Table 10.2. The percentage column in the previous table has simply been
translated into the total number of plants of each species, and we assume an area
of 1 hectare (10,000 square metres) and spacing of 1.5 metres (this is often
referred to as centres abbreviated to c/s, ctrs. or c/c which is equivalent to 0.45
plants per square metre).
Structure Planting 217
Table 10.2 Planting mix showing proportions
Species Proportion Total
quantity
Quercus robur 7.5% 340
Carpinus betulus 2.5 % 1 15
Acer campestre 10 % 4 5 0
Prunus atzium 10% 450
C orylus avellana 20 % 9 00
C rataegus monogyna 20 % 9 00
Ilex aquifolium 5% 225
Sambucus nigra 20% 900
Lonicera periclymenum 2.5 % 1 15
Rubus fruticosus 2.5 % 1 15
45 1 0
Note: quantities are rounded up to the nearest 5.
All plants shall be evenly mixed and planted at 1.5 metres c/s throughout the mix
area.
This method of random distribution has resulted in a number of problems. Chief
among these is the ability of the most vigorous species to dominate the entire
area from an early stage because they are evenly mixed in with the slower
growing trees and shrubs. When this happens, constant attention is needed by
thinning or coppicing to avoid the suppression and loss of the slower, long—term
trees. Also, ‘even distribution’ does not allow us to vary the spacing of plants in
order to take account of the different growth rates and habits. The management
responsibilities for this kind of planting are onerous and so are often not properly
attended to and the result is a laissez—faire woodland in which the most
aggressive species exclude the others. Although this is perhaps more ‘ecological’,
it wastes some of the effort put into the design and planting, and it would have
been better to restrict the mix to vigorous pioneer species at the initial planting
and take a successional approach to woodland establishment.
To overcome the problem of differential growth rates, one approach is to group
each species in drifts or clumps of between 5 and 50 plants.This kind of grouping
also has advantages in the appearance of the young plantation. Dense stands of
the same species appear ‘natural’, being common in spontaneous colonization,
and these bold masses also have a strong visual impact.This group arrangement
allows us to specify different spacing for different species and even to vary the
spacing used for any particular species. Slower growing, less competitive trees are
placed in medium—sized groups of between 10 and 20 where they will occupy an
area free from immediate competition. The area would be between 10 and 50
square metres in size, which is large enough to give good light conditions for most
of the group, but small enough to benefit from the shelter of surrounding, taller
plants. At least one of each group can then be expected to grow to maturity.
The faster growing trees and shrubs, or those chosen specifically as a short-
term nurse, can be treated in a number of ways. If they have reasonably
compatible growth rates (e.g. larch and birch) they can be evenly mixed, or they
can be segregated in drifts for visual reasons. Thus, groups of fast growers could
form extensive bands weaving through the plantation and protecting pockets of
the less competitive species, either in single species drifts of between 30 and 50
or in larger mixed groups. Alternatively, the fast—growing trees can be spread in
218 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
smaller pockets of 10 to 20, through a mass of competitive but lower—growing
shade tolerant shrub species.
Species included in very small proportions are usually best planted in
occasional small groups. For example, holly or hornbeam might be grouped in
fives or tens but because of their slow growth care should be taken to locate the
groups among other slower growing species such as oak so they are not
smothered by trees like poplar or willow. (Holly, however, is tolerant of
comparatively low light levels and so would suffer less than most species from
shade suppression.)
With spacing remaining uniform, group sizes can be included in the mix
schedule and arrangement specified as in Table 10.3.
Table 10.3 Planting mix showing group sizes
Species Group Total
size quantity
Quercus robur 10 340
C arpinus betulus 10 120
Acer campestre 15 445
Prunus atzium 15 445
Corylus avellana 20 900
Crataegus monogyna 30 900
Ilex aquifolium 5 225
Sambucus nigra 30 900
Lonicera periclymenum 3 1 1 1
Rubus fruticosus 3 1 1 1
Note: number totals are adjusted to be divisible by the group size.
All plants shall be planted at 1.5 metres c/s in single species groups of the size
shown. Groups shall be evenly distributed across the mix area, except where
otherwise shown on the drawing.
Further sophistication and a more nature—like appearance can be achieved by
varying the spacing. For example, whereas most of the hazel can be safely planted
in groups of between 10 and 30, at 1.5 metres spacing, some could be notch
planted into thickets of 10 or 15 at 300 mm spacing, or pit planted all in one
large hole. This would simulate multiple shoots from coppice stumps, (and
perhaps confuse the landscape archaeologists of the future!). Birch is often found
in multi—stemmed form and this can be produced in planting by placing three or
five transplants in one large pit. Ash can be treated in a similar way, as can many
other trees and shrubs. For some species, variety can be introduced by giving a
range of acceptable spacing, say between 0.5 and 2.0 metres, rather than defining
a constant spacing.
There is scope for experimentation of this kind provided that instructions
given to the landscape contractor are clear and practical, but it is good practice
for new and experimental techniques are at least demonstrated on site by the
designer if not carried out by him or her in person. Many of these imaginative
touches have been tried out with some success in ecological and nature—like
planting projects (Tregay, 1983) some transplants have even been planted at odd
angles rather than upright in order to produce mature specimens of more varied
form.
Structure Planting 219
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220
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planting. Note the complex edge to planting areas and the concentration of certain
species in selected areas.
Structure Planting 221
Table 10.4 Spacing for each species
Species Group Spacing Note
size within
(number group
of plants) (metres c/s)
Quercus robur 10 1.5 m
Carpinus betulus 10 1.5 m
Carpinus betulus 50 2.0 m (1 group = 5 clumps of 10
@ 300 mm c/s, clumps 2 m apart)
Acer campestre 15 1.5 m
Prunus atzium 15 1.5 m
Corylus avellana 20 1.5 m
Corylus avellana 50 2.0 m (1 group = 5 clumps of 10
@ 300 mm c/s, clumps 2 m apart)
Crataegus monogyna 30 1.0—1.5 m
Ilex aquifolium 5 1.0 m
Sambucus nigra 30 2.0 m
Lonicera periclymenum 3 1.5 m
Rubus fruticosus 3 1.5 m
All that then remains to fully specify the composition and setting out of this more
complex mix is to calculate the total quantities of each species required.When we are
using different spacing it is easiest to apportion species by the area rather than by
number. If oak is to occupy 7.5 per cent of the planting area assigned to a particular
mix, we calculate the total number of square metres to be planted with oak (= 7.5
per cent of the total area) and then multiply this by the planting density to find the
total quantity of oak. For example, if the mix occupies 1 hectare (10,000 m2):
Species Area Group Spacing Density Total area Total
size plants
Quercus robur 7.5% 10 1.5 m 0.45 per m2 750 m2 340
The same calculation is performed for each component of the mix.The schedule
of species shown on the planting plan (Table 10.5) need not include columns for
percentage, density or total area.
Table 10.5 Woodland core mix (total area 10,000 m2)
Species Group Spacing Note
size (no. within Total
of plants) group no. of
(c/s) plants
Quercus robur 10 1.5m 340
Carpinus betulus 10 1.5m 90
Carpinus betulus 5 X 10 2.0m 100 (1 group = 5 clumps of 10 @ 300 mm c/s)
Acer campestre 15 1.5m 450
Prunus a-vium 15 1.5m 450
Corylus a-vellana 20 1.5m 860
Corylus a-vellana 5 X 10 2.0m 250 (1 group = 5 clumps of 10 @ 300 mm c/s)
Crataegus monogyna 30 1.0—1.5m 1280 (average density 1 per m2)
Ilex aquifolium 5 1.0m 250
Sambucus nigra 30 2.0m 500
Lonicera periclymenum 3 1.5m 1 1 1
Rubus fruticosus 3 1.5m 1 1 1
222 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Once again, the totals have been rounded up so that they are divisible by the
group size to avoid sub—division of groups.
The more complex aspects of setting out such as coppice imitation and
continuously variable spacing are best illustrated with sample drawings because
the landscaper is less likely to be familiar with this approach. Otherwise a
schedule such as that above need only be identified with the mix area on the plan
that it applies to, either by code (a letter, number, colour or tone) or arrow.
Subsidiary Mixes
Any notable differences in soil or microclimate could be exploited by planting a
range of trees and shrubs that are specifically adapted to those conditions. In
established woodland such specific communities arise naturally and are
sometimes called ‘societies’ to distinguish them from the main ‘associations’ or
communities. For example, alder societies are found on wet ground in oak
woods. Alder is the dominant tree and may be associated with other moisture
loving species, and the shrub and field layers are also different from those in the
adjacent oak woodland. Subsidiary planting mixes might be drawn up for wet
hollows, exposed ridges or for steep slopes with thin, dry soil.
Table 10.6 An example of a wet woodland mix
Tree layer : Aln us glutinosa 3 0 %
Betulus pubescens 20%
S alix alba 1 0 %
Shrub layer: Fran gula aln us 1 0 %
Salix cinerea 10%
Viburnum opulus 20 %
Another way to respond to differences in site conditions is to identify the most
successful species in different parts of the site, say five years after planting, and
to promote these with management. Indeed, the more subtle variations in soil
and drainage can sometimes only be identified in this way.
Low Forest/Low Woodland
Low canopy woodland or low forest refers to plant communities dominated by
trees of between about 7 and 15 metres height. It may either be a stage in
development towards a full height forest or woodland, or it may be a more or less
stable community resulting from environmental pressures that prevent the
establishment of the tall forest species. From a design point of view it can be seen
as an end in itself or as means to ultimately creating a high forest association like
the New Zealand podocarp—broadleaved forest.
Fast growing ‘pioneer’ low forest trees include kanuka (Kunzea ericoides),
kohuhu (Pittosporum tenuifolium), tarata (Pittosporum eugenioides), tutu (Coriaria
arborea (note this is very poisonous)) and makomako (Aristotelia serrata). Birch,
sallow and rowan can play a similar role in European deciduous forest
development.These trees could be combined with a selection of light—demanding
shrubs that would, in the longer term, survive in open areas (such as manuka,
Leptospermum scoparius), and moderately shade—tolerant species (such as karamu,
Coprosma lucida) that would form an understorey below the trees. We will
compare two mixes, one in New Zealand and one in Britain, illustrating the
similarities in principle and the differences in ecology.
Structure Planting 223
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shows number of each species in each mix area, size of groups of each species and nursery stock size. Woodland
core, woodland edge and perimeter hedge mixes are all represented. The setting out of mixes areas and plant
spacing is shown in the cross—section in Figure 10.5.
First, imagine a grassland site in hill country in one of the moister regions of
North Island New Zealand. Remnants of old indigenous forest will probably be
found in reserves and perhaps in some steep gulleys and inaccessible land, but
this will not necessarily help a great deal with choosing species for revegetation
because the trees that survive in these isolated bush remnants originally
established under very different environmental conditions. We will find better
guidance in areas where bush is recolonizing secondary sites (such as retired
grazing land, steep road cuttings, and so on). Where the ground is reasonably
moist but well drained, species are likely to include, for example, mahoe
224
The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 10.5 The use of cross—sections to show the relationship of different mixes and plant spacings in
woodland belts around a business park.
(Melicytus ramiflorus), rangiora (Brachyglottis repanda), kohuhu, ti kouka
(Cordyline australis), tarata, houhere (Hoheria sexstylosa), whauwhaupaku
(Pseudopanax arboreus) and tutu. On drier ground we would be likely to find
kanuka and shrubby species like manuka (Leptospermum scoparium), tauhinu
(Cassinia leptophylla) and small leaved coprosmas or it may be dominated by the
adventive colonizers, gorse (Ulex europaeus) and broom (Cytisus scoparius).
If the regenerating bush is at an early stage it would be too dense to include a
distinct shrub layer, but a mature secondary bush community will be a little more
open and some shrubs can grow below the tree canopy, including karamu
(Coprosma lucida and Coprosma robusta), kanono (Coprosma grandifolia), rangiora
(Brachyglottis repanda) and hangehange (Geniostoma ligustrifolium) and some of
the small—leaved coprosmas.We can select from these species to design a mix that
will grow first as a vigorous pioneer thicket, then become a low forest ‘bush’
community and eventually provide the conditions for colonization by high forest
trees such as rewarewa (Knightia excelsa), tawa (Beilschmiedia tawa), hinau
(Elaeocarpus dentatus) and the podocarps. An example of such a mix would be as
follows, but please note that all mixes illustrated in this book are necessarily
hypothetical and they are intended to be illustrative only. They should never be
copied on an actual site. The detailed ecology of each site must always be
thoroughly understood before finalizing any planting of indigenous species.
Table 10.7 An example of a New Zealand low forest mix
Tree layer: Pittosporum tenuifolium 15 %
Hoheria sexstylosa 1 5 %
Melicytus ramiflorus 10%
Pseudopanax arboreus 1 0%
Cordyline australis 5 %
Shrub layer: Coprosma lucida 10%
Brachyglottis repanda 1 0%
Coprosma robusta 1 0%
Coriaria arborea (note this is very poisonous) 5%
Structure Planting 225
Plate 144 Self—sown birch (Betula pendula) and Plate 145 A mosaic of open space and young
goat willow (Salix caprea) have colonized open land woodland of birch (Betula pendula) and oak (Quercus
to form this pioneer low woodland at Stocksbridge, petraea) in a Sheffield park, UK.
Yorkshire, UK. Note the high canopy woodland
developing in the background.
Plate 146 This fenced
framework plantation for a
science park in Warrington,
UK, contains a woodland
scrub mix of transplants and
groups of staked ash ‘whips’
(Fraxinus excelsior). Note that
the plantation incorporates and
protects a remnant of an old
hedgerow.
It is interesting to compare this situation with the European example of
birchwoods. These occur on free draining, acidic soil in the moister areas of
north or west Britain, where they form indigenous low—canopy woodlands that
have developed in areas affected by past management or disturbance. The
original forest would probably have been sessile oak—birch woodland, but the oak
has been lost, perhaps by felling, and the low woodland is now dominated by the
downy and silver birches (Betula pubescens and B. pendula) associated with rowan
(Sorbus aucuparia), willows (Salix sp.) in wet places and, locally, bird cherry
(Prunus padus). The shrub layer includes hazel (Corylus avellana) and,
occasionally in wetter areas, guelder rose (Viburnum opulus). Gorse (Ulex
europaeus) and broom (Cytisus scoparius) are present in light glades and open
edges. In areas where this kind of woodland is typical we could create something
similar to that in Table 10.8.
226 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Table 10.8 Birchwood mix
Tree layer: Betula pendula 15 %
Betula pubescens 15 %
Sorbus aucuparia 10%
Prunus padus 5 %
Salix caprea 5 %
Shrub layer: Corylus avellana 20%
Viburnum opulus 20%
Glade shrubs: Ulex europaeus 5%
Cytisus scoparius 5 %
If wind exposure is severe we can increase the proportion of the wind hardiest
plants — birch, rowan, gorse and broom. Under sheltered conditions, the most
vigorous species in the early years would be willows and so this should be either
kept to a low percentage (as shown above) or, if required in bulk numbers for
quick effect or a nurse crop, it would be segregated in large drifts or groups. Note
that, overall, 50 per cent of the mix consists of tree species. This will ensure that
the planting develops a strong woodland character with a more or less closed
canopy but including some more open stands and occasional glades.
If we want to encourage the development of the birchwood to oak—birch
woodland we could select and release any oak seedlings that arise spontaneously,
or we could introduce oak seed or plants, once the conditions at ground level are
suitable. If we do introduce oak in this way, their source should be local because
they will then be well adapted to the local conditions and will not introduce new
genetic material to the local gene pool.
Shrub Thicket
In the early years of descriptive ecology Salisbury (1918) identified a lowland
deciduous shrub community which he called ‘thicket scrub’. It is a good example
Plate 147 Scattered planting of low thicket scrub Plate 148 Low scrub, including gorse (Ulex sp.)
transplants protected by tree shelters in an exposed and dwarf willow (Salix sp.), is now well established
coastal location in Cumbria, UK. Species include in a south—facing slope at the wildlife garden site,
burnet rose (Rosa pimpinellifolia), gorse (Ulex planted for the 1984 Liverpool International Garden
europaeus), goat willow (Salix caprea) and sea Festival.
buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides).
Structure Planting 227
Plate 149 High canopy
woodland in an urban park in
Sheffield, UK, with an open
edge that allows free access
between the open space, the
path which follows the edge
and the interior of the wood.
of a structural type of close—knit shrub growth with little development of lower
vegetation layers. We will call this structural type ‘shrub thicket’ because it is a
combination of terms in common use that most people would recognize as
describing Salisbury’s ‘thicket scrub’ and other similar communities. He
regarded it as a sub—seral or, rarely, climax (stable) community characterized by
dense stands of shrub species, and almost devoid of trees. Because in Europe
these are often the result of grazing, they are dominated by thorny species such
as hawthorns (Crataegus monogyna and C. oxycantha), gorse (Ulex europaeus),
blackthorn (Prunus spinosa), wild roses (Rosa sp.) and brambles (Rubus
fruticosus). These give protection to smaller numbers of unarmed shrubs
including hazel (Corylus avellana) and dogwood (Cornus sanguinea). Bramble,
field rose (Rosa arvensis) and old man’s beard (Clematis tzitalba) would scramble
among and into the taller growing shrubs.
Dense plant communities dominated by shrubs are more diverse in a country
like New Zealand because of the greater range of altitude and natural shrub
habitats. Coastal scrub, sub—alpine scrub, dense shrub colonization of open sites
and what ecologist Peter Wardle ( 1991) calls ‘grey scrub’ are all comparable in
structure to lowland deciduous shrub thicket and so can be included in this
structural category. Grey scrub consists of thickets of very stiff and twiggy, small-
leaved evergreen shrubs that give a greyish appearance due to the lack of green
leafage. The toughness of its outer stems makes it resistant to both frost damage
and browsing even though it contains few if any prickly shrubs.
In stock—fenced planting areas with a suitable climate, a shrub thicket will
eventually progress to forest or woodland. In its most vigorous stage, however,
the dense canopy close to ground level will prevent the establishment of tree
seedlings or a field layer. This single layer structure may persist if shrubs are
planted at high densities, using species that regenerate vigorously and
continuously, such as bramble and, in Britain, Rhododendron ponticum. A thicket
of species such as manuka (Leptospermum scoparium), kanuka (Kunzea ericoides)
or gorse (Ulex europaeus) that do not regenerate in their own shade would,
sooner or later, allow a field layer of tree seedlings to develop and promote faster
succession to woodland or forest.
A possible deciduous shrub thicket mix for a well—drained, calcareous soil in
lowland Britain is given in Table 10.9. If these were spaced at 1 metre or 1.5
metres apart, they would rapidly form a close—knit low canopy providing visual
screening and good cover for nesting birds and other wildlife. If the spacing were
to be varied in different parts of the plantation, say from 1 metre to 3 metres
apart, more diversity in ground conditions would develop and this would be
attractive to a wider range of fauna and flora. Alternatively, some areas could
228 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Table 10.9 An example of a shrub thicket mix (calcareous soil, UK)
Tall shrubs: Crataegus monogyna 20%
Prunus spinosa 20%
Rosa canina 10%
Cornus sanguinea 10%
Ligustrum vulgare 1 0 %
Corylus avellana 10 %
Rhamnus catharticus 10%
Low—medium shrubs: Rubus fruticosus 5 %
Rosa arvensis 5%
simply be left unplanted to become glades where tree species would be likely to
colonize at a later stage.
A dense, thicket—like scrub in lowland areas of New Zealand would need to
either imitate natural shrub communities like those found in exposed coastal or
mountain sites or to reflect early succession stages found in the more difficult
lowland sites. Note that it is important when planting indigenous species in a
natural habitat to make sure that they are propagated from local sources. This
will avoid genetic mixing and the consequent reduction in the genetic diversity
of species. A successional scrub thicket mix for a well drained lowland site of low
to moderate fertility is given in Table 10.10, and for sites of very low fertility in
Table 10.11.
Table 10.10 Shrub thicket mix (lowland, NZ)
Tall shrubs: Coprosma robusta 20%
Coprosma lucida 20%
Hebe stricta 20%
Leptospermum scoparium 20%
Brachyglottis repanda 15%
Coriaria arborea (note this is very poisonous) 5%
Table 10.1 1 Shrub thicket mix (poor soil, NZ)
Shrubs: Coriaria arborea (note this is very poisonous) 20%
Hebe stricta 20%
Leptospermum scoparium 20%
Cassinia leptophylla 20%
Suitable spacing would be similar to the British example, that is, for small
planting stock, between 1 and 1.5 metres apart in order to give fast establishment
of a shrub canopy. This would grow to give a mature canopy of 3—6 metres
height. Again, tree species would come into the scrub as it reached late maturity
and began to open up. Many of these would be the fast growing, small and
medium sized trees that form low pioneer forest, but some tall forest species may
also arrive at this stage. The process of succession could be helped by timely
planting of tree species, perhaps combined with thinning and crown raising of
the maturing shrubs. If a permanent shrub thicket structure is wanted the shrubs
such as Hebe, Coriaria and Coprosma can be regenerated by coppicing.
Structure Planting 229
Woodland Scrub
Woodland scrub represents what is often a transition state between scrub, dominated
by shrub species, and forest or woodland. It would contain a similar range of pioneers
and small trees to that found in low woodland or forest, and it may also include young
trees of the high forest dominants. The trees would form a scattered, open canopy,
allowing a thicket of light—demanding shrubs and sapling trees to thrive below.
This kind of canopy structure could be created from the low canopy woodland
mix by thinning and coppicing to maintain large shrub—filled glades below a
dispersed canopy. However, if woodland scrub is our objective at the design
stage, we can anticipate this by including a higher proportion of light—demanding
shrubs and those that flower and fruit better in the sun. These would be
accommodated by reducing the proportion of trees compared to that in a
woodland mix. The low—canopy deciduous woodland mix for a mildly acidic soil
(see pp. 225—6) could, thus, be modified to a woodland scrub mix (Table 10.12).
Table 10.12 Woodland scrub mix
Emergent trees: Betula pendula 5 %
Sorbus aucuparia 5%
Shrub layer: Crataegus monogyna 20%
Viburnum opulus 20%
Corylus avellana 20%
Ulex europaeus 1 5 %
Cytisus scoparius 1 5 %
High Scrub
In the case of both woodland scrub and shrub thicket we can modify the eventual
structure to include space below the canopy by excluding the lower growing,
spreading species and plant mostly tall shrubs that, are drawn up by mutual
competition to tree—like form. Thorn (Crataegus), elder (Sambucus nigra), hazel
(Corylus avellana) and goat willow (Salix caprea) will all grow to 6 or 8 metres or
more under good conditions and, when planted en masse, will develop a raised
tree—like canopy. A classic New Zealand example of high scrub is a mature
manuka (Leptospermum scoparium) that often reaches between 5 and 7 metres in
height.These also create a structure like a miniature woodland — open below with
a raised canopy above of fairly even height.
Edges
The edges of plantations are of great importance for a number of reasons. From
outside they are the most visible part, and at close quarters they play a key role in
the structural character of the planting as a whole. Edges may be open, allowing
views into the core of the forest or woodland and giving free access from adjacent
land, or they can be closed with dense shrub growth to form a barrier to both access
and vision, giving more shade and shelter within the core of the woodland or forest.
The edges of both tree and shrub communities offer different environmental
conditions from the interior. They have higher light levels, with only periodic
shade and greater wind exposure.Wind reduces both temperature and humidity.
If a more or less closed edge is wanted, we can design a specific mix to take
advantage of the higher light levels and provide maximum shelter.
230 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
The ecological role of forest edges varies according to the forest type and local
ecology. For example, in European temperate deciduous woodland, the edge is
often the most ecologically diverse part of the community and provides the
greatest range of habitats for both plants and animals per unit area of the entire
forest. For this reason, European plantations are often designed to maximize the
edge and increase its diversity by designing small, narrow areas of planting with
intricate shapes and multiple aspects. This is the reverse of the situation in
countries such as New Zealand and many in subtropical climates where the
indigenous vegetation is easily displaced by an invasive exotic flora. Here, the
edge is the part of the native forest remnants that is most vulnerable to
colonization by light—demanding adventive species, and for this reason efforts are
made to minimize the extent of the edge and to increase the proportion of forest
interior. This is done by filling in undulations in the perimeter of forest remnants
and existing plantations and by enlarging their total size to achieve a more
favourable ratio of interior to edge. In the case of revegetation, one large
continuous area would be preferred to many small areas for the same reasons.
The edges of established deciduous temperate woodland are characterized by
dense shrub growth and small, light—demanding tree species. The shrubs may
include shade bearing species but growing with greater vigour to a denser
canopy, and flowering and fruiting with greater profusion than in the shade.
Crataegus, Sambucus, Lonicera periclymenum and Rubus fruticosus are all shrubs
that, though they are common in the forest interior, flower and fruit more
profusely at the woodland edge.
This marginal vegetation often shows a height gradient from small trees and
tall shrubs, that are tucked under the outer line of the high canopy, down to
sapling trees, low shrubs and herbs that border the grassland, path or other
surface that bounds the woodland. The edge of tall scrub can show a similar but
more restricted gradient. This gradient or ‘ecotone’ represents a transition
between the communities of the woodland core or tall scrub and the adjacent
land. In proportion to the area that it occupies, it offers relatively high visual and
habitat diversity.
In plantations we can imitate this kind of marginal ecotone by designing a low
edge mix for the outer perimeter and a tall edge mix to be planted between this
and a woodland core mix. In order for it to establish successfully and to really
contribute to the ecotone the optimum width for an edge mix is about 5 metres
and a minimum width of 2 metres is essential. The width of the edge mix
planting areas need not, of course, remain constant and greater visual interest
and habitat diversity is achieved if there is enough space for them to vary
considerably in width, broadening out in places into patches of scrub on the
woodland margins and disappearing altogether in others.
We can achieve a closer match to microclimatic conditions as well as introduce
further diversity if we vary the constituents of the mixes according to aspect. In
the northern hemisphere, south—facing edges will be warm and sheltered and
they will receive prolonged direct sunlight and allow filtered sunlight further into
the woodland core.This can be reflected in a wide edge and a high proportion of
light—demanding and attractive flowering species such as wayfaring tree
(Viburnum lantana) and roses (Rosa sp.). North—facing edges, although
considerably less shaded than the plantation interior, will receive only short
periods of direct sunlight and will bear the brunt of cold winter winds. Thus
hardier, more shade tolerant species will be suitable here, such as elder
(Sambucus nigra) and blackthorn (Prunus spinosa). In Britain, west—facing edges
suffer the strongest and most prolonged winds and east edges are prone to cold,
dry easterly winds that can be damaging in spring. Species should be chosen
Structure Planting 231
.‘..4n'
Plate 150 Gorse (Ulex europaeus) and wild roses Plate 151 A clipped Cotoneaster lacteus hedge forms
(Rosa arvensis and Rosa canina) form a low edge to a neat dense edge to mixed woodland structure
roadside woodland planting in Milton Keynes, UK. planting at the entrance to a business park near
Leicester, UK.
Plate 152 Outlying groups of self—sown birch
(Betula pendula) add to the spatial intricacy and
microclimatic diversity on the edge of this wood,
Stocksbridge, UK.
accordingly, avoiding evergreens on east edges due to their vulnerability to
physiological drought, and including the most wind firm species on west edges.
Shrubs and trees with a requirement for high light levels will, in the long term,
be restricted to edges and glades. These include roses, wayfaring tree, dogwood
(Cornus sanguinea), blackthorn, gorse (Ulex europaeus), broom (Cytisus scoparius),
crab apple (Malus sylvestris), birches (Betula sp.) and wild cherries (Prunus sp.).
Many of these are also common in scrub associations; indeed, woodland edges
can be regarded as narrow bands of scrub restricted by the shade of the interior
on one side and by a different land use or management on the other.
Edges are equally important to the forest plantings and bush remnants of New
Zealand but for different reasons, as already explained. In this case the edge will
have a protective barrier function. It is designed to create a rapid transition from
the open conditions of light and exposure on the outside to the deep shade and
shelter of the forest interior. To achieve this, species chosen should be vigorous
enough to establish in the presence of exotic weeds and to persist with a dense
continuous canopy that will create a heavily shaded barrier zone between the
open habitat and the interior. Suitable plants depend on the area and soils but
might include some of the following: kohuhu (Pittosporum tenuifolium), tarata or
lemonwood (Pittosporum eugenioides) koromiko (Hebe stricta and Hebe salicifolia),
mahoe (Melicytus ramiflorus), harakeke (Phormium tenax), lacebark (Hoheria
232 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 10.6 Part of a detailed planting proposal for a country park. Various woodland, edge and scrub mixes
are proposed to suit environmental conditions and achieve structural and habitat diversity.
Structure Planting 233
sexstylosa), whauwhaupaku or five finger (Pseudopanax arboreus), karamu
(Coprosma lucida, Coprosma robusta), ngaio (Myaparum laetum), rangiora
(Brachyglottis repanda) and heketara (Olearia ram). To these dense canopy
forming species can be added a proportion of others, for diversity, including
kowhai (Sophora tetraptera) and ti kouka or cabbage tree (Cordyline australis).
As well as performing the function of a weed barrier, edge planting in New
Zealand should take advantage of the particular aspect of the margins. Heketara
(Olearis ram), ti kouka and lacebark, for example, thrive and flower in the full sun
of a north—facing edge whilst rangiora (Brachyglottis repanda) and whauwhaupaku
prefer sheltered and shaded, southerly aspects which do not dry out quickly. The
margins of established forest form a plant community that is often distinguished
by an abundance of fruiting shrubs and lianes — especially karamu with its large
red berries, ngaio, mahoe, ti kouka, poroporo (Salanum sp.) and lianes and
climbers such as passion vine (Passzflara tetrandra) and bush lawyers (Rubus
species) (Gabites and Lucas, 1998). The margins of New Zealand forest are
attractive to a wide range of feeding birds, thanks to the heavy fruit crop, the
nectar flowers such as kowhai (Sophora tetraptera) and harakeke that attract tui
and bellbird, and the abundant insects consumed by birds like the fantail or
piwakawaka.
Tall Edge
A tall edge refers to one that includes both shrub and tree species. For a tall edge
structure, suitable species include many that would be selected for high scrub
and woodland scrub. A tall edge mix to surround the deciduous oak woodland
described earlier could include tree layer sub—dominants and shrub—layer species
that would benefit from the more open conditions. It should also include
specifically light—demanding trees and shrubs in order to provide greater species
diversity. If the trees are of small or medium stature and kept to a small
proportion this will avoid heavy shading of shrubs. Shrub species can be chosen
from among the taller species that are capable of reaching 3 metres or more in
height.
Table 10.13 An example of a tall edge mix
Mediumlsmall trees: Acer campestre 5%
Prunus Lwium 5%
Malus syltzestris 5 %
Tall shrubs: Crataegus monogyna 25%
Ligustrum vulgare 20%
Ram canina 20%
Viburnum opulus l5 %
Salix caprea 5 %
Note that Salix caprea is restricted to 5 per cent due to its vigour and rapid
canopy spread.
Table 10.14 A New Zealand equivalent for an edge with a shaded aspect
Mediumlsmall trees: Pittosporum eugeniaides 10%
Pseudopanax arboreus l 0 %
Myaparum laetum 5 %
C ardyline australis 5 %
can tin ued
234 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Tall shrubs: Hebe stricta 20%
Phormium tenax 20%
Coprosma lucida l5 %
Coprosma robusta l 5 %
Low Edge
A low edge is one dominated by shrub species growing to between 2 and 4
metres high. Many low and medium height shrubs are characteristic of the more
difficult soil or climatic conditions. Ulex europaeus, Calluna vulgaris, Erica carnea
and Cytisus scoparius, for example, on exposed acidic sites, and Erica tetralix and
Myrica gale on permanently damp soils. These would be suitable for a low edge
mix around British woodland in comparable conditions. In time, tall herb species
could colonize the plantation edge and supplement the low shrubs, but in the
early stages weedy herb species would be very competitive and need to be
controlled.
A possible low edge mix for neutral or calcareous soil in lowland Britain would
be:
Cornus sanguinea 30%
Prunus spinosa 30%
Rosa arvensis 30%
Rubus fruticosus 10%
Rubus fruticosus is included in only small proportion because of its tendency to
scramble over and smother small shrubs and because it is difficult to obtain in
large quantities in the nursery trade and may have to be transplanted as stolons
from local sources.
A shrub mix for a lowland coastal New Zealand location, would be:
Coprosma robusta 25 %
Olearia paniculata 20 %
Phormium cookianum 20 %
Olearia solandri l5 %
Coprosma propinqua l5 %
Solanum laciniatum 5 %
Plant spacing for low edge mixes should normally be closer than for core mixes
and tall edge mixes because of the lesser spread of many of the species. If the core
and tall edge spacing is 1.5 metres then 1.0 metres would be suitable for many
low edge species or if a more rapid establishment is desired, 0.75 metres centres
could be used. We should also remember that the ultimate height of a planting
mix will depend to a large extent on environmental conditions. A low edge in an
exposed coastal or mountain site might grow to half the height or less than the
same mix in a sheltered, nutrient—rich site.
Outlying Groups
If established forest, woodland or scrub is surrounded by cultivated or otherwise
intensively managed land, it will have a sharply delineated edge. Where the
adjacent land is unmanaged, on the other hand, forest or scrub will, sooner or
later, colonize and spread.Various stages of this colonization can be observed on
abandoned pasture, around unmanaged scrub, along roadside and railway verges
Structure Planting 235
and other ‘disused’ land.The sight of this spontaneous process underway can be
satisfying — evidence of nature at work in the landscape.
If space allows, we can encourage or imitate this kind of marginal colonization
around the edges of plantations and revegetation. It would happen naturally
under the right management conditions, but only after the planted trees and
shrubs had reached the stage of setting viable seed, or if there are other parent
trees locally. For an earlier effect we can plant small groups of various shapes and
sizes and occasional individual trees or shrubs in grassland adjacent to the
plantation. Suitable species would include those already present in the woodland
edge mixes and light—demanding scrub and pioneer trees.These outlying groups
are thus rather like pieces of the edge or scrub mix broken off and scattered
beyond the main body of the planting.
Where the ecology is favourable, the intricacy and variety of the plantation
margins will be enhanced if the edge is irregular in outline, creating bays and
spurs that interlock with surrounding open land. Not only does this fragmented
edge give the appearance of natural colonization, but its greater length and the
numerous small—scale variations in light and shade, shelter and openness, further
diversify the habitats for invertebrates and birds.
Clumps and Copses
Clumps and copses are compact, contained patches of woodland or forest, but
the words do have slightly different connotations. Copse derives from coppice
and so suggests a small wood that, if not actually managed as coppice by regular
cutting, does at least include a shrub understorey. Tree clumps, on the other
hand, probably make us think of small grazed stands of trees in parkland with
only a sparse understorey, if any.
Clumps and copses, although isolated elements and lacking much of the
ecology of larger woodland or forest proper, are of sufficient scale to contribute
structure to the largest outdoor spaces. They do not provide continuous
enclosure but a number of them will create a fluid space that opens and closes as
we move around and between them. A single clump or copse can be a focus or
landmark in parkland or within the wider landscape. Their structural role is
similar to that of single trees but on a larger scale and they were a well used
element in the landscape gardening of larger private European estates in the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
The canopy structure of a tree clump can best be achieved by a woodland
design approach with a simple mix that includes only trees. Single species clumps
are often visually successful because of their boldness and uniform appearance.
We could use a single species at time of planting or, if the chosen tree needs
shelter to establish well, we could add nurse species to the mix and remove them
once the long—term trees are established.
A copse, on the other hand, would need a more varied mix including shrub as
well as tree species and could be further diversified with edge mixes. To fully
develop both edge and interior structure the copse needs to be at least 15 metres
but preferably 20 metres across. If less than 15 metres, a simpler structure is best,
such as a single edge mix that follows only part of the perimeter, or a single
woodland mix could be used that includes shrub species and small trees that will
grow in both the shade in the interior of the copse and the open conditions at its
margins.
236 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Woodland and Forest Belts
Belts are narrow strips of woodland or forest too wide to be called a hedgerow
but too narrow to allow the full development of both edge and interior. They can
be established in linear plantations between 3 metres and 15 metres wide and are
often used in large—scale landscape projects because they can provide a planting
framework that defines and encloses zones for different land use or character.
They are economic in use of ground area and can absorb irregularities in the
shape of site boundaries leaving more efficiently shaped development
compartments. Belts also provide improved microclimate within landscape
compartments, but to provide optimum shelter, the belts needs to be at least 10
metres wide. For a full treatment of shelterbelt planting refer to Caborn (1975)
and Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (1968).
Although woodland belts are an important element in the large—scale
framework of the landscape they bring certain management problems that should
be understood by the designer. If they are less than about 25 metres wide, large-
scale clearance can sometimes be required for regeneration. The most vulnerable
woodland belts are those that consist of dense stands of fast and evenly growing,
short—lived trees of the kind often planted for quick screens. These may be very
successful in their early years, giving rapid impact and so pleasing both client and
planning authority, but we will later have to make the decision whether to clear,
fell or regenerate in compartments. Neither of these alternatives are ideal so
management of woodland belts is often neglected resulting in gradual decline.
If we want to help the long—term perpetuation of a woodland belt we can
design it to have a varied and open canopy structure that includes glades and
areas of scrub that can be planted with forest trees in the future without the need
to remove major sections of an established, uniform stand. With this approach
the overall structure of the belt would be maintained even though individual
trees and groups of trees come and go.
The design of woodland belts can be approached in the same way as larger
plantations. On many sites we will wish to achieve the best screening and
sheltering that is possible and if a width of 25—30 metres is available we can
achieve both a dense screen and optimum shelter and allow for future
regeneration. However, 5—10 metres is more common, so we might need to
accept that the woodland belt will be a temporary feature and make the best use
of the width available. Maximum bulk and density can be achieved with a high
or low woodland mix including a dense shrub understorey and an edge mix along
at least one margin, preferably the side that faces the prevailing wind.
Impenetrability will not necessarily be the objective, however. For more
Plate 153 This belt of woodland is no more than
four metres wide but, ten years after planting,
provides an excellent screen to extensive car parks.
In the future selected coppicing of shrubs and
thinning of trees will be necessary in order to
maintain the visual density of the belt throughout its
height (Warrington, UK).
Structure Planting 237
openness and visibility in the mature plantation, we could plant just a high
canopy tree mix and the end result would be tall trees with more or less open
space below. Many woodland belts of this structure can be seen in first
generation postwar British new towns. They were often planted en masse with
‘standard’ trees in mown grass but later experience indicated that the same
results can be achieved more quickly and cheaply if we adopt a woodland
planting or revegetation approach, starting with small planting stock at close
centres.
For a woodland belt plantation to include an interior and an edge along both
margins we would need a minimum of two mixes, a core mix and an edge mix.
If the plantation were wide enough, say 15 or 20 metres, we could introduce
more variety with low and tall edge mixes on different sides or, if the belt ran
roughly east—west, the sun—facing margin would support a more light—demanding
edge mix than the shaded margin.This would give us a maximum of five primary
mixes. If ground conditions vary significantly within the plantation we may need
to reflect this in subsidiary mixes. A final level of subtlety could be introduced by
inserting clumps or even single specimens into the mixes near or just beyond the
edge of the plantation in key positions such as entrances. These would stand out
from the backcloth of foliage and act as foci or accents.
Subtle variations like these can help give maximum habitat potential and
introduce visual richness, but simple effects can be very successful and
memorable. Generous belts of just one or two, well—chosen species, can give the
landscape a strong character and become landmarks in their own right. The
shelter belts of Scots pine in Breckland, Norfolk and beech and sycamore shelter
belts in the British uplands have this quality.
Hedges and Hedgerows
A hedge is most easily defined by its function. Hedges originated in agriculture
as stock barriers and, even in park and garden roles, the barrier function remains
essential, so a succinct definition would be a line of woody plants managed to
form a barrier. A distinction between hedge and hedgerow is helpful.We will use
‘hedge’ to describe a linear planting that is either regularly trimmed to keep it
compact and impenetrable, or consists of naturally compact shrubs that need no
more than occasional clipping to maintain a continuous barrier. Although
clipped hedges often include tree species, these tend to be those that are well
adapted to close trimming and become an integral part of the hedge tapestry. A
‘hedge’ by our definition would not include trees growing in their natural tree
form habit. A ‘hedge’ is thus a compact living wall akin to a simple free—standing
masonry wall.
We will use ‘hedgerow’ to describe both hedges that have become overgrown
and include shrub and tree species at various stages of development, and hedges
in which trees have been deliberately planted or selected during management to
grow to maturity above the clipped hedge. A ‘hedgerow’ thus contains either
trees or tall shrubs in their natural habit and is rather looser and more varied in
form than a hedge. If it has developed from an unmanaged hedge, it may have
lost its original barrier function.
Hedges and hedgerows are familiar and characteristic features of large parts of
the agricultural landscape in lowland Britain and, to a lesser extent, of other
countries. In Britain where they support a wide variety of native species and
habitat, hedges are a good example of the balanced coexistence of human activity
and nature conservation. When originally planted they were probably never
intended to be anything other than the most economic means of sub—dividing
238 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
land and facilitating profitable farming, but they have since become havens for
wildlife and their removal is now opposed by conservation interests. Hedged
fields in livestock farming areas are of a moderate, human scale and the hedges
give a sense of enclosure and protection that is uncommon in intensive
landscapes of the agricultural industry. From a more distant viewpoint they can
be seen to weave the fields, woods, tracks, roads and other elements of the rural
scene into a single green tapestry. Rural hedges and hedgerows give an effective
and attractive landscape structure that helps to integrate the economic, wildlife
and visual functions of the countryside.
In New Zealand hedges are some of the most unfortunate introductions of
exotic species. Gorse and barberry are two serious agricultural weeds and ‘plant
pests’ that were originally imported and planted by European settlers to form
paddock hedges. It was not realized at the time that they would adapt to their
new home to the extent that they would spread to cover hundreds of thousands
of hectares of marginal farmland, river margins and disturbed areas. There is no
ecological reason why some native New Zealand plants should not form good
agricultural hedges, but the reason they have not been widely adopted is because
they are slow growing, expensive to establish, do not have thorns to dissuade
stock and cannot be moved.The standard solution is the electric ‘hot’ fence, and
native tree and shrub hedges are only likely to find a role in the agricultural
landscape where there is a desire for visual and ecological amenity as well as
boundary definition.
Hedges
Hedges are long—established elements of park and garden design. They can
provide many functions including enclosure, spatial definition, sculptural form,
decorative pattern and a backdrop to displays and sculpture. The first function
of a traditional hedge, whether in the rural or urban landscape, is to make a
dense barrier in a narrow strip of ground. To establish an impenetrable canopy
of foliage, we need species with a habit of dense growth that is promoted by
regular trimming.
RURAL HEDGES Rural hedging is usually on a larger scale than urban or
garden hedges and, because of the quantity involved, the species for rural
hedging need to be cheap and easy to produce. Their growth habit is also
important — dense, compact foliage down to near ground level is essential. The
best hedging plants respond well to regular trimming or laying, producing a good
proportion of compact side shoot growth rather than all vigorous extension
shoots. In addition, it is important that the species chosen fit well with the
character of the local vegetation, as in most cases they will need to fit with the
existing hedges, woodland or scrub.
With age, rural hedges gain a wide diversity of woody and herbaceous species.
The majority of these colonize from local sources so that the hedge comes to
reflect the flora of the surrounding landscape. From an ecological viewpoint,
hedges could be regarded as narrow strips of scrub where the succession to
woodland is prevented by management, and hedgerows could be thought of as
strips of woodland scrub or woodland edge. Indeed, they have a similar richness
of species to that found in woodland margin communities. Rural hedges may
have originated in several different ways — as woodland relics that have survived
clearance, from spontaneous scrub colonization of unmanaged field boundaries,
from hedge planting of mixed species, or from hedge planting of a single species
(Pollard et al., 1975). Many parts of Britain are characterized by particular hedge
Structure Planting 239
species, for example, hazel (Corylus avellana) in Monmouthshire, elm (mainly
Ulmus procera) in Somerset and north Buckinghamshire, and karo (Pittosporum
crassifolium) enclosing the bulb fields of the Scilly Isles.Yet some of the typical
plants in old established hedges may not be the best in terms of growth habit, so
when planting new hedges, we need to decide whether the first priority is the
local character or the effectiveness of the hedge as a barrier.
SPECIES FOR RURAL HEDGING In Britain, the most commonly planted
hedging species has been hawthorn or quickthorn (Crataegus monogyna). This is
because it is ideally suited to large—scale work, being economical to propagate
and quick to establish in a wide range of soils and climates. It forms an
impenetrable, thorny barrier. Other species planted to form rural hedges include
hazel (Corylus avellana), especially in Wales, holly (Ilex aquifolium) in
Staffordshire, blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) and elm (Ulmus sp.) in various parts of
Britain, beech (Fagus sylvatica) on the margins of Exmoor and fuchsia (Fuchsia
magellanica) in the west of Ireland. All these have been used in single species
hedges because their growth habit is so well adapted to hedge management.
Many other shrubs and trees have been planted in mixed hedges in the past
because of their availability as young seedlings in local woods and scrub and,
more recently, by conservationists and landscape designers wishing to achieve
diversity in new hedges and hedgerows. These secondary species include field
maple (Acer campestre) — an excellent hedging plant and much used in France,
hornbeam (Carpinus betulus) — like beech, rather slow and more common in
parks and gardens, wild privet (Ligustrum vulgare), cherry plum (Prunus
cerasifera) — not a British native but it fits the rural landscape, dogwood (Cornus
sanguinea), guelder rose (Viburnum opulus), wayfaring tree (Viburnum lantana),
and oak (Quercus robur and Q. petraea). The oaks, although they may become
rather open at the base, respond well to regular trimming by retaining their
brown leaves in winter like beech and hornbeam. Any of these could be used in
the rural landscape provided that attention is paid to local character and typical
vegetation.
There are a number of species, however, sometimes planted for hedges in rural
areas, some of them recent introductions, that are difficult to harmonize with the
Plate 154 Traditional laying of a recently Plate 155 Tall willow hedges shelter kiwi fruit
established rural hedge in Cheshire, UK. Note the orchard in Bay of Plenty, New Zealand. Salix
fence put up to contain stock while the hedge is matsudana is commonly used for this purpose.
developing into a stock—proof barrier.
240 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
British landscape and poor for wildlife. The most common is leyland cypress (X
Cupressocyparis leylandii) which is a popular hedging plant because of its rapid
growth rate — an annual height increment of 1 metre is common. It is used in
gardens, parks, estates, industrial screenings, and windbreaks by fruit growers
and market gardeners. Its form and foliage colours are unlike any other native or
naturalized trees in our countryside and so it is often conspicuous and intrusive
in rural settings. This effect is exacerbated when hedges or individual trees of
leyland cypress are allowed to grow to full size. (Once above about 4 metres,
hedges are difficult and expensive to trim on top.)
There are also some British native species that should be avoided if an even,
dense hedge is wanted. Elder (Sambucus nigra), the larger willows (Salix caprea,
S. cinerea and other species) and poplars (Populus alba, I? tremula and other
species) all grow so rapidly that they dominate and suppress other species and
will result in a hedge of very uneven height within a month or two of trimming.
In addition, they have a leggy habit and leave large gaps near the ground, even
when regularly cut. These vigorous species could, however, be included in
hedgerows where a more variable and open character is desired.
There is a good range of reliable hedging plants to choose from without using
exotic species and the more vigorous natives. A selection should, of course, take
into account the local conditions of soil and exposure. Some plants are highly
adaptable — hawthorn and blackthorn for example — while others are best suited
to specific conditions, such as wayfaring tree on calcareous soils and guelder rose
in moist ground. Another important factor for large—scale hedging is cost. Close
spacing is necessary for a quick dense barrier, and so large quantities of plants
are needed. Prices vary greatly, the cheapest species is usually hawthorn while
holly can be ten times as expensive due to the propagation techniques used, its
slower growth and the need for container—grown or rootballed stock.
HEDGE MIXES Let us assume that we need a quick growing hedge for a site
with an average loam or clay loam soil in a reasonably sheltered midland site. If
we want to keep the costs down, the chief constituent of the mix might be
hawthorn. Other species could be drawn from the characteristic local hedge and
scrub flora. A total of five or six species would be enough to provide an attractive
diversity, but there is no rule about this and factors such as local character,
wildlife habitat, and stock availability will affect the range to be used.
A possible hedge mix for a neutral to calcareous soil would be:
C rataegus monogyn a 5 0 %
Prunus spinosa 15 %
Corylus avellana 15 %
Acer campestre 15 %
Cornus sanguinea 5 %
If winter foliage is important and the rate of establishment less so, a suitable mix
would be:
I lex aquifolium 30 %
Fagus sylvatica 30 %
C rataegus monogyna 10 %
Acer campestre 15 %
Prunus spinosa 15 %
Structure Planting 241
The evergreen foliage of holly (Ilex aquifolium) and the retention of leaves
through the winter on beech (Fagus sylvatica) would make this a colourful and
varied hedge throughout the year. These species are slower growing than the
remainder of the mix and so given higher proportion of the planting mix. The
more vigorous shrubs, although smaller in numbers at planting, will ultimately
form a comparatively large proportion of the established hedge.
In New Zealand, red matipo (Myrsine australis) and forms and hybrids of
Coprosma repens such as ‘Karo Red’ and ‘Yvonne’ are some of many that make
fine winter foliage hedges.
SETTING OUTAND SPACING In order to create dense even growth from
near ground level upwards, hedges are traditionally planted as small stock at
close spacing. For example, it is common to use two—year—old hawthorn
transplants (these can be any height between 30 cm and 60 cm). Occasionally,
seedlings between 20 cm and 40 cm tall are transplanted to their final positions
after just one season’s growth in the nursery. Spacing can be varied according to
the budget available but 30 cm is common for the smaller transplants.
Sometimes, three—year—old transplants of between 60 cm and 90 cm tall are used.
These, and the larger two—year—old plants, can be set 45 cm apart.
It is unusual to use larger plants, especially for long hedges in rural locations,
but occasionally there is a need for a strong visual impact immediately after
planting. This could be achieved by using advanced stock, 0.9—1.2 metres tall at
45 cm or 50 cm apart. It is often more difficult to get dense branching near
ground level with larger stock because the plants will probably have been drawn
up in the nursery rows. If these plants are cut back to one third of their height,
this will promote rapid, bushy growth and produce better hedging plants. From
a cultural point of view this hard pruning is preferable to the short—term gain in
height achieved by not pruning.
To achieve a dense barrier as soon as possible a good approach is to plant two
staggered rows 30 cm or 45 cm apart. With this method, the distance between
plants is effectively reduced to half (approximately 15 cm to 23 cm) by the extra
row and the width of the hedge will reduce gaps at the base. Three rows can be
justified if a wide hedge is wanted, and should be staggered for maximum
overlap. Single row hedges are sometimes planted in rural locations but are more
common in gardens and urban sites where space is limited. They are most
successful if the densest growing species are used, such as yew (Taxus baccata),
totara (Podocarpus totara), beech, hornbeam, and korokio (Corokia X virgata
cultivars).
For hedges of only one species, the setting out can be described on the
planting plan in words, although a small sample detail of the dimensions within
and between rows and to adjacent plants or edges is helpful. For mixed hedges,
not only dimensions but also the relative positioning of different species should
be drawn. This can be done economically by designing a planting unit, perhaps
5—15 metres long, that is to be repeated along the entire length of the hedge. This
technique is similar to the repeating unit matrix that can be used to detail large-
scale plantation mixes.
Hedgerows
In hedgerows the barrier function is often less important, and trees or large
shrubs can be allowed to grow to maturity above the smaller species. The lower
layer can be trimmed to maintain its compactness or allowed to develop its
natural form.
242 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Figure 10.7 Part of a drawing showing a repeating unit for hedgerow planting on a
reclamation site. Note close spacing for quick establishment of a stock—proof barrier
and standard trees confined to one row for ease of hedge maintenance.
If the hedgerow is to include fully grown trees, these should be positioned at
the desired intervals. If the hedge is to be trimmed in the early years, they are
best planted as staked, feathered or standard trees rather than as transplants, to
distinguish them from the plants that are to be trimmed.
A hedgerow is rather like a narrow strip of tall woodland edge or woodland
scrub and we can approach the choice and arrangement of species in a similar
way. The main differences will be the scale of grouping of different species and
the advantages of planting in parallel rows rather than randomly. Species groups
should be smaller in hedgerows than in woodland or scrub because of the
narrower width. Group sizes from 5 to 15 would give a good balance of diversity
and there is less risk of vigorous species completely suppressing their neighbours
because the slower growing canopies can spread laterally into the space beside
the hedgerow. Hedgerows are best planted in parallel rows because their
alignment is likely to be important and because aftercare and establishment work
in a narrow strip is made easier by regular spacing.
We need not confine hedges and hedgerows of traditional rural character to
rural locations. They can be ideal barriers and boundaries in housing
developments, in the grounds of industry and other institutions, in the larger
town parks and in urban wildlife parks. Indeed, a design precedent for this has
been set by the conservation of existing hedges and hedgerows and their
retention within new developments. However, hedges in gardens, town parks and
urban areas have traditionally had a more formal or exotic character and the next
section will discuss the design of traditional urban and garden hedges.
Urban and Garden Hedges
Hedges, both formally clipped and free growing, are among the most important
structural elements in the layout of gardens and urban landscape. For example,
the expertly tended, traditional formal hedges in the early twentieth century
Structure Planting 243
Plate 156 This broad, medium.height hedge of box Plate 157 Boundary definition and containment
(Buxus semper-virens) provides low—level enclosure for are iinpeiiani functions 0f hedgeS- New Zealand
bays of colourful bedding. A weaving hedge such as i0i3Y3 (P0d0Cai’P745 WWW) is 3 g00d foiinai hedging
this is an excellent means of structuring a linear Plant f0Y urban i0e3ii0nS (Hamilton: NeW Zealand)-
planting area and creating well—proportioned
compartments for planting display.
gardens at Hidcote Manor in Gloucestershire and Newby Hall in North
Yorkshire are crucial to the spatial composition and experience of these gardens.
Formal, clipped hedges are less common in the urban landscape because of the
regular trimming that they demand. However, despite the cost of maintenance,
clipped hedges have undergone a revival, with their sculptural qualities being
utilized in contemporary as well as period design. The Thames Barrier Park in
London is a good example of a contemporary, sculptural interpretation of the
traditional role of clipped yew hedging as a backdrop to herbaceous planting.
Hedges have also found a place in prestige landscape schemes such as business
parks and corporate headquarters. Here they form distinctive and efficient
enclosure for car parks, lunch areas and small—scale planting, and are also
employed in the traditional role of boundary definition. In addition to these
structural roles, the colour and texture, and the crisp line of a well—maintained
hedge can be a complement to flowers, foliage and other landscape materials
such as stone, timber and metal.
If a less intensively maintained, or a more informal green barrier is required
there are many shrubs such as the smaller Hebe species, Corokia cultivars,
Escallonia cultivars and Rosa rugosa that will form a compact, dense hedge
needing only an occasional light trim to avoid it getting leggy at the base. Such
informal, low maintenance hedges have become common due to the need to
keep labour costs as low as possible, but they also have many aesthetic qualities
that justify their use. They make a more casual outline than clipped yew or box
and, because pruning is minimal, many species also flower and fruit.
244 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
SPECIES FOR FORA/IAL HEDGING In Britain and other cool temperate
climates the classic clipped hedging plants are yew (Taxus baccata), box (Buxus
sempervirens) and beech (Fagus sylvatica). All look good throughout the year, as
yew and box are evergreen and beech retains golden brown winter foliage when
clipped. All respond to regular trimming by producing dense twiggy growth
down to near ground level.This compact habit, however, is due to their naturally
slow growth rate and so it is no good being impatient for such a fine hedge.Yew
and box will take about ten years to form a full hedge 2 metres high, and beech
takes seven or eight years to achieve the same.
Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens and C. macrocarpa) and myrtle (Myrtus
communis) are the classic hedge plant in Mediterranean countries, and feature in
such great hedged gardens as the Generalife in Granada. A number of New
Zealand plants make excellent clipped hedges. Totara (Podocarpus totara) is a
good match for yew, its only disadvantage being that it does not regenerate from
hard pruning into old wood. Korokio (Corokia X virgata compact cultivars, like
‘Mangatangi’ and ‘Cheesmanii’) and kohuhu (Pittosporum tenuifolium) especially
cultivars like ‘Mountain Green’. In a mild, seaside location few can match karo
(Pittosporum crassifolium) and taupata or mirror plant (Coprosma repens and its
cultivars).
When formal hedges are required in an urban or garden environment, it is
often appropriate to make use of a wide range of exotics. This provides a good
choice, in particular of evergreen and fast growing species and, with care, they
can make hedges of comparable quality to yew, box and beech.These include the
following: hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), which is very similar to beech in foliage
but faster growing in good soils, western red cedar (Thuja plicata) and white
cedar (Thuja occidentalis), both of which have emerald green foliage, holly (Ilex
aquifolium) with its shiny dark blue green leaves has a depth of tone similar to
yew, holm oak (Quercus ilex) is a similar colour to holly but with a matt surface,
akiraho (Olearia paniculata), pohutukawa (Metrosideros excelsa) tends to retain its
juvenile foliage when clipped as a hedge, myrobalan plum (Prunus cerasifera),
cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), with large shiny bright green leaves gives a
bold texture, and field maple (Acer campestre), which is a common hedging plant
in continental Europe. Most of these species are faster growing than yew and box
and so can provide an alternative where quick impact is needed.
Two shrubs extensively used as clipped hedges are garden privet (Ligustrum
ovalifolium) and Lonicera nitida. They are popular because of their very rapid
growth and low cost, and they make good solid hedges. However, they need
clipping at least three times each season to keep them even reasonably shapely
and compact.This may be too heavy a maintenance liability to impose on most
clients.
Choice of species will depend on many criteria. Growth requirements are
paramount, but growth rate, cost and aesthetic qualities will also be important.
With the exception of cherry laurel, all the species quoted possess fine or
medium textured foliage. (This is no coincidence — small leaves and twigs allow
trimming without unsightly foliage damage, and compact growth with fine twigs
and leaves is a characteristic of many slow growing, compact plants.) If the hedge
is to form a backdrop or we want it to be visually recessive for other reasons, then
fine texture is an advantage. Dark colour and matt surface provide an excellent
background to many features such as sculpture, statuary, fountains, flower colour
and foliage.
Some shrubs will flower and fruit even when regularly trimmed, provided
clipping is done at the right time of year. For example, bottlebrush (Callistemon
citrinus) and myrtle respond well to clipping and also flower, Darwin’s barberry
Structure Planting 245
(Berberis darwinii) produces rich orange flowers in spring on the previous year’s
shoots. It can, thus, be clipped after flowering and again, lightly, in autumn and
will produce a display the following spring. Firethorns (Pyracantha species),
especially the compact cultivars, and Cotoneaster lacteus can be treated in a similar
fashion and have the added attraction of berries in late summer that last well
through the winter.
There are many additional species that, although not often seen as such, make
attractive and effective hedges. Rosemary (Rosmarinus oflicinalis) can be clipped
to form a low aromatic hedge. Berberis thunbergii and small cultivars of rohutu
and its hybrids (Lophomyrtus obcordatus and L. X ralphii) are also good for dwarf
hedging. Viburnum rhytidophyllum makes an imposing, if sombre, background
and many species of barberry including Berberis thunbergii and B. sargentiana are
effective barriers. Indeed, it is worth trying any shrub that has a compact growth
habit and we may discover an unusual and attractive hedging plant.
MIXED HEDGES The mingling of foliage textures and colours in hedges of
mixed species can be effective in formal, urban or garden planting, just as in rural
locations. The variations of green and copper beech, of beech and holly in winter
can be very attractive. A memorable combination seen by the author was a 1—metre
tall clipped hedge of Senecio ‘Sunshine’ and Berberis thunbergii ‘Atropurpurea’,
planted to edge a car park. The contrast of grey and plum foliage colours was
emphasized by the harmony of texture and the consistency of shape and outline.
For establishment and ease of maintenance of mixed hedges it is important to
choose plants with well—matched growth rates. If one is more vigorous it can still
be included provided that its proportion in the mix is reduced accordingly. For
example, 15 per cent of firethorn in a beech hedge would add winter foliage variety
and the attraction of autumn fruits without dominating the slower growing beech.
SPECIES FOR INFORA/IAL HEDGIN G The criterion for successful informal
hedging shrubs is a natural compactness of habit and a canopy well furnished to
the ground. Their form may vary from rounded dome—shaped shrubs like
Viburnum tinus, Hebe and Olearia species, Griselinia littoralis and Escallonia
cultivars, to more upright growers such as Fuchsia magellanica, Berberis
gagnepainii and the smaller, clump—forming bamboos like Arundinaria murieliae.
All these species make a dense barrier to their mature height if planted
sufficiently close. Although, botanically, New Zealand flax or harakeke
(Phormium tenax) is a large herb, it makes a very effective hedge in its native land,
growing up to two or three metres high and flowering on tall stems held above
the foliage.
One of the great advantages of informal hedges is that flower and fruit are not
inhibited by trimming. Many roses, for example, make effective and showy informal
hedges, especially Rosa rugosa cultivars, hybrid musk roses and a number of species
roses and hybrids such as R. rubiginosa, R. ‘Canary Bird’ and R. pimpinellifolia.
For lower—growing, informal hedges species include lavender (Lavandula spica, L.
stoechas, L. dentata and cultivars), Berberis thunbergii ‘Atropurpurea Nana’,
Potentilla species, the smaller shrubby veronicas (Hebe sp.) and rosemary
(Rosmarinus oflicinalis). Many species can be planted as an informal hedge. The
most important thing to avoid is, in the case of taller shrubs, a leggy or open habit
and, for low hedges, sprawling or excessively spreading growth.
SETTING OUT AND SPACING For both formal and informal hedges the
principles of setting out and spacing are similar to those that apply to rural
hedges containing mainly native species. Under most conditions it is best to plant
246 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
small stock as close together as possible. If the plants are available as field—grown
transplants the smallest size available should be specified and planted at 35—45
cm spacing for tall and medium hedges or 25—35 cm for low hedges, in two
staggered rows 30—40 cm apart. If a narrow hedge is required, a single row is
usually sufficient but the spacing in the row should then be towards the low end
of the ranges quoted. For example, bare—root Rosa rugosa, 45—60 cm tall could be
cut back to 20 cm and planted in a single row at 30 cm spacing.
Many species used in urban and garden hedges are only available as container-
grown stock and may be difficult to obtain as small ‘liners’ or ‘root trainer’ stock.
They will also be more costly than bare—root, field—grown transplants. Larger,
container—grown plants should, therefore, be used sparingly. For example
Pyracantha cultivar, 45—60 cm tall, in 2—litre containers, could be confidently
planted 50 cm apart in a single row.
Most hedging plants need pruning after planting to promote bushy side
branching. They should be cut back to about one third of their original height.
There are exceptions to this rule: the leading shoot of yew should not be
pruned until it has reached its final height because it is naturally bushy at a
young age and removing would only slow down the vertical growth. The
leaders of beech, hornbeam and holly can also be safely left for a number of
years after planting unless the hedge is composed of particularly straggly
specimens.
The location and alignment of urban and garden hedges is often critical —
small errors or deviations can have a disproportionate effect on the appearance
of formal hedges. Because of this, care must be taken in the detailing of hedges
on planting plans. Dimensions should be shown on the drawings to fix the
position of hedge lines relative to ‘anchor points’ and the spacing of plants in the
rows specified. For a hedge, unlike a plantation mix or groundcover, the positions
of individual plants or at least the line of plants rows should be shown on the
drawing.
TREES IN HEDGES Spreading tree canopies above a green wall of hedge
foliage are very attractive. This ‘colonnade’ form can be seen in formal parks
and gardens, but it can be difficult to establish and maintain. In the first place,
cutting of the hedge is more difficult because of the need to work around the
stems of trees. Hand work is essential to achieve a tidy finish and avoid the
risk of damage to the trees. Also, once the tree canopy begins to thicken and
spread, the shade it casts suppresses the foliage immediately below it and
tends to produce uneven and open growth that may not be acceptable in a
formal hedge. Shade can be reduced by raising the crowns of the trees to allow
more light under their canopies, but it is better practice to set the trees back
rather than plant within the hedge line. Two metres distance is enough to
reduce root and canopy competition with the hedge plants for many years,
and shade cast by the trees will be more evenly distributed along the face of
the hedge. Setting trees back also allows easy access to all faces of the hedge
for maintenance.
Perimeter Hedging
If we want a very quick screening of the plantation edge and an ordered,
managed appearance, a perimeter hedge may be the answer. This would consist
of two or three rows of closely spaced transplants that could be trimmed once or
twice per year. The comparatively narrow width of a hedge is an advantage if
space is too limited for the development of a broad, free—growing edge structure.
Structure Planting 247
Plate 158 An urban hedgerow of Norway maple
(Acer platanoides) planted in a hedge of Cotoneaster
lacteus. The restricted width available for planting
made this a suitable means of integrating the decked
Plate 159 Hedge clipping is easier if trees are
planted next to rather than within a hedge
(Warrington, UK).
car park within the planting structure of the office
development site.
Plate 160 A magnificent single line avenue of the
tropical rain tree (Albizia saman) line the approach
to Toloa College, Tonga.
Plate 161 Plane trees planted at 6—metre spacing in
rows and 7 metres between rows form a strongly
defined avenue at University of California, Berkeley,
USA.
The hedge could have the rougher character of a rural hedge or hedgerow, or be
more formal as in parkland or urban landscape. The choice will depend on the
setting and function of the plantation. The design of plantation hedges is very
similar to that of ‘free standing’ hedges and the reader is referred to the section
on hedges and hedgerows.
Avenues
For our purposes ‘avenue’ will mean any linear, geometrical planting of trees in
which each tree is identifiable as an individual. It will include single lines and two
or more parallel rows of trees, which may be straight or curved and might follow
a single direction, defining a linear space, or form squares or circles to enclose a
static space. The visual qualities and detailed design of avenues is quite distinct
from mass structure planting but they can be equally dominant elements in the
248 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
structure of the landscape, defining spaces and boundaries just as effectively, but
in a more geometric manner.
Avenues are traditionally associated with fine buildings, monuments and
important or ceremonial routes. The vista created by a straight, two—row avenue
is often focused on a building facade or monument for which it creates an
impressive approach. Avenues are also planted to give character, identity and
distinction to vehicle or pedestrian routes.
Because of their linear nature avenues are an effective and economical means
of defining territorial and spatial boundaries and of articulating circulation.Their
scale and proportion can vary from an intimate path under small flowering
cherries to a grand parade flanked by stately lime or plane trees. The degree of
enclosure can also be controlled. Avenues of mature trees do not give full
separation at lower levels, rather they create raised structures such as a green
‘arcade’ with foliage ‘roof’, a ‘colonnade’ with ‘windows’ between the trunks, or
an implied boundary along a line defined by widely spaced specimens.
The detailed design of avenues is a question of choosing the right species and
spacing according to function and appearance.
Avenue Species
A formal avenue needs to be consistent in canopy habit and foliage. Such
uniformity demands a single species of tree that must be reliable and consistent
in its growth. It should not show undue response to variations in soil and
microclimate on the site, it should not be over—susceptible to diseases and
disorders, and it should not need frequent arboricultural work to maintain a safe
and well—shaped crown. It is a further advantage if the species is available as a
cultivar, which, because it has been propagated vegetatively, will be genetically
consistent. Trees propagated by seed often show too much variation to make a
good formal avenue.
Plate 162 An unusual avenue tree is ti kouka or New Zealand
cabbage tree (Cordyline australis) seen here in Hawkes Bay, New
Zealand. It lacks the regularity of traditional avenue species but
more than compensates with character.
Plate 163 These closely planted double avenues of Fagus sylvatica
are part of the great Renaissance park at Het Loo in the
Netherlands. The impression is of great green arcades lifted high on
sturdy pillars of the beech trunks.
Structure Planting 249
Plate 164 Small trees such as Robinia pseudoacacia
‘Bessoniana’ form intimate, human scale avenues
and are particularly successful when set within larger
enclosures such as urban squares or streets (Vision
Park, Cambridge, UK).
Plate 165 The trunks of this small palm avenue are
delightfully clothed with climbers to give low level
detail to the curving space (Singapore Botanical
Gardens).
Trees traditionally planted to make tall avenues in northern Europe include
limes (Tilia species), London plane (Platanus X acerifolius), Norway maple (Acer
platanoides), elms (especially Ulmus glabra), horse chestnut (Aesculus
hippocastanum), Spanish chestnut (Castanea sativa), beech (Fagus sylvatica) and
the more regular growing species of poplar (such as Populus robusta). For urban
areas, avenue trees should not attract pests, especially aphids, which drop sticky
‘honeydew’ on vehicles and furniture below. Acer platanoides, Tilia euchlora, T
petiolaris and Platanus X hispanica are the most suitable in this regard.Two large
trees that have been recently tried in urban planting and should make good tall
avenue trees areTurkish hazel (Corylus colurna) with its regular conical form, and
raoul (Nothofagus procera), which is fast growing. Other species that produce
good tall avenues in suitable conditions include pin oak (Quercus palustris), with
its spectacular autumn colour, Turkey oak (Quercus cerris) which tolerates air
pollution well, and sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) that grows into an elegant
specimen when given room to spread. In parkland, estates and rural areas it
would be worth trying larch (Larix sp.), hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), Hungarian
oak (Q. frainetto), chestnut leaved oak (Q. castaneifolia) and sessile oak (Q.
petraea).The last three species are faster growing oaks than the pendunculate oak
and form a straighter bole and more regular crown. Evergreens include black
pine (Pinus nigra nigra), which makes a stately mature tree, wellingtonia
(Sequoiadendron giganteum), which forms dramatic avenues in historic parks such
as at Stowe, Buckinghamshire, and, especially in Mediterranean areas, Italian
cypress (Cupressus sempervirens). In warm temperate and subtropical climates,
two New Zealand species have proved to be good avenue trees. These are puriri
(Vitex lucens), which flowers almost all year, and, where there is enough space to
benefit from its natural spreading habit, the pohutukawa (Metrosideros excelsa).
Other avenue trees for warmer areas include some of the figs, such as Ficus
microcarpa, which is a commonly planted street tree, jacaranda (7acaranda
mimosifolia) with its spectacular blue flowers, and some of the flowering
eucalypts, like Eucalyptus ficifolia, which does not drop exfoliating bark and has
stunning crimson orange flowers. Many palms are used for avenue planting
where the climate is suitable. Canary Island Palm (Phoenix canariensis) makes a
classic avenue in warm temperate and Mediterranean climates, and equally good
250 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
though more spectacular is the skyduster (I/Wshingtonia robusta).
For an avenue of medium height (about 10—18 metres at maturity) the
following species provide a range of reliable trees with consistent habit: many
Sorbus (especially S. aria, S. intermedia, S. X thuringiaca, S. aucuparia and S.
‘Sheerwater Seedling’), some of the flowering crab apples (especially Malus
tschonoskii with its compact columnar form), double flowered gean (Prunus
avium ‘Plena’), mop—head false acacia (Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Bessoniana’), the
compact hornbeam (Carpinus betulus ‘Fastigiata’), spineless honey locust
(Gleditsia triacanthos ‘Inermis’), manna ash (Fraxinus ornus), which is more
compact than many other ashes, Italian alder (Alnus cordata), which has glossy
foliage and a neat conical crown, and the male form of maidenhair tree (Ginkgo
biloba), which is a common street tree in Japan and the USA where its naturally
fastigiate habit is a great advantage. In warmer temperate climates reliable
species include Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), Indian bead tree (Melia
azederach), Pittosporum eugenioides, P tobira and P undulatum, olive (Olea
europaea), orange trees (Citrus species, especially the Seville orange C. aurantium)
and Brazilian pepper tree (Schinus terebinthifolius).
If regularity of form is unimportant, the choice of avenue trees broadens to
include virtually any species suited to the local conditions. If pedestrian or
vehicular circulation is required beneath the avenue we should choose trees that
can be pruned to give a raised crown above head height and are not prone to
dropping branches, or wind damage. In these circumstances trees such as Robinia
pseudoacacia, which leaves a litter of spiny twigs, would not be a good choice.
Small avenues (less than 10 metres high) can be effective and attractive
structural elements in the human scale landscape of courtyards and gardens.
Good trees for this purpose include the following: flowering cherries and plums
(especially Prunus ‘Accolade’, P. ‘Kursar’, I? padus ‘Watereri’, P sargentii, I?
‘Shirotae’, P. ‘Tai Haku’ and P cerasifera), some of the flowering crab apples
(such as Malus floribunda and M. hupehensis), the tree cotoneasters (Cotoneaster X
watereri and C. ‘Cornubia’), willow—leaved pear (Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’), the
ornamental thorns (especially Crataegus X lavallei, C. crus—galli and C. prunifolia)
and the smaller cultivars and species of Sorbus (such as S. ‘Joseph Rock’, S.
‘Embley’, S. hupehensis, S. cashmiriana and S. vilmorinii). Unusual and distinctive
avenues can be created with species of striking habit such as ti kouka (Cordyline
australis), chusan palm (Trachycarpus fortunei) and giant bird of paradise
(Strelitzia nicolai).
Setting Out and Spacing
The regularity of geometry and spatial form that can be created with avenue
plantings lends itself to architectural metaphor. For example, a single line of
closely spaced trees with clear boles and linked canopies becomes a green
‘colonnade’. Two lines with canopies meeting overhead forms an ‘arcade’ and, if
in the shape of a square become an enclosing ‘cloister’. The trunks and angled
branches of closely spaced large trees create a room— or canopy—like structure.
Widely separated trees take on the processional character of rows of columns.
We can see that the layout of avenue trees affects the spatial qualities to
be achieved. The spatial arrangement of the avenue will also influence choice
of species and techniques of establishment needed to achieve the design
objectives.
For avenues of large trees with canopies that are close together, but not
continuous, a planting distance of 20—25 metres apart is ideal.This will allow the
largest trees like lime and plane to develop into broad, spreading specimens,
Structure Planting 251
however, for the full effect we may have to wait anything up to one hundred
years.To achieve quicker visual impact, on a timescale that is acceptable for most
landscape projects we could plant two (or three) times the number and remove
alternate trees (or two out of every three) when the canopies begin to overlap.
The initial spacing would then be between 6 and 12 metres. This would give a
good sense of continuity and spatial definition about 15 years after planting.
Unfortunately, when the time for this rather drastic thinning arrives, it can be
difficult to find the courage to fell what may be fine young trees and even more
difficult to persuade the public or client that it is necessary. A way of clarifying
management intentions from the beginning is to choose a fast growing, short-
lived species for the temporary tree. A poplar or Italian alder (Alnus cordata)
might be planted between the long—term species, and felled with less contention
after ten to twenty years.
The distance between rows should be of the same order or greater than the
spacing of the trees within the row. If the lateral spacing of an avenue is less than
its longitudinal spacing it will give the impression of passing through a series of
arches, and will tend to reduce the strength of enclosure. At this large scale,
double avenues (with two rows on either side of the axis) or even triple avenues
can give an impressive grandeur.
A linked avenue, where the tree canopies meet to form parallel ‘colonnades’ or
an ‘arcade’ roofed with foliage, needs tree spacing significantly less than the
mature spread of the trees. Large trees such as lime and plane would need to be
no more than 15 metres apart at maturity. Ten metres apart would achieve the
effect more rapidly. With increasingly close spacing, more enclosure is created
and the avenue becomes less a series of individuals and more a continuous,
sculpted form. At very close spacing, say 4—5 metres, more vigorous trees will
shade and suppress the weaker trees. Different growth rates can be moderated by
pruning but, as the trees become larger this becomes more difficult and
expensive. If we are prepared to accept less uniformity, there is no reason why we
should not plant as close as 2 or 3 metres in the rows. This could create an
unusual and dramatic effect.
The smaller the canopy spread the closer we need to plant to achieve the same
degree of continuity. Medium—sized avenue trees such as Sorbus aria or Robinia
pseudoacacia ‘Bessoniana’ would never give linked canopies at spacing much
greater than 9 metres, and 5—6 metres apart is recommended. For quick
establishment, we could reduce this to about 4 metres. Trees with a narrow
crown such as Malus tschonoskii or Ginkgo biloba should be placed
correspondingly closer and, although an ascending habit will not be suited to the
arcade or colonnade form of linked avenue, spacing of 5—7 metres will achieve a
strong, integrated appearance. The smallest trees such as Sorbus vilmorinii and
Pyrus salicifolia ‘Pendula’ are best planted no more than 5 metres apart.
For regular planting of two or more rows we can use a rectilinear grid or a
staggered grid.The former, in which trees either side of the axis are opposite one
another, gives a more formal appearance. Staggered planting gives a lighter visual
rhythm, but viewed from the side, the density will appear greater.
In practice, the location of trees will be affected by numerous site constraints
such as road junctions, side paths, the windows and entrances of buildings and
underground and overhead services. It is rare to achieve identical spacing
throughout the length of an avenue. Fortunately, this is not of great consequence
except in the most formal and grandest of designs. On most sites, occasional
breaks in the avenue and irregularities in spacing are acceptable, if the reason for
them can be seen and understood. So it is more important to try to overcome
restrictions imposed by invisible constraints such as underground services, and
252 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 166 Pleached limes (Tilia sp.) separate the Plate 167 A laburnum tunnel, such as this famous
building from the bicycle park (Leuven, Belgium). one at Bodnant in North Wales, can impress not only
with its spectacular flower display in May but also
with its dynamic spatial qualities.
Plate 168 A large—scale climber tunnel creates a Plate 169 Pleached lime (Tilia) create a geometric
dramatic vehicle entrance to Auckland Regional setting for sculpture in a Bristol park, UK.
Botanical Gardens, New Zealand.
this is best done by anticipating these problems and dealing with them at the site
planning stage.
Trained Trees and Vines
Pleached lime and laburnum tunnels are traditional examples of the use of
trained tree form to achieve a green architecture with strong enclosure and
control over form. In terms of function, this kind of trained form is similar to
close planted avenues, but the management commitment is greater and much of
it needs hand work. Despite this, these traditions have come back into fashion
and designers are exploring their broader possibilities and fresh interpretation in
public spaces. An advantage of trained tree forms is that, because clipping or
training is established as part of continuing management, they can be used close
to buildings in the knowledge that the crown and root spread will be restricted.
Pleached limes could be planted within 2—3 metres of a building whereas a free-
Structure Planting 253
Plate 170 Clipped trees planted in a strict grid in Plate 171 A number of fruit crops, including apple
London’s docklands redevelopment area.This and kiwi fruit are grown on this kind of post and
approach is traditional in France and represents the wire structure.There is an opportunity to re-
ultimate in the reduction, abstraction and interpret contemporary growing techniques such as
formalization of the spatial idiom of the forest. this, as well as traditional espalier and fan methods,
in amenity landscape and horticulture (Canterbury
Plains, New Zealand).
growing tree of this size would normally be located many times this distance
away, to avoid problems of shading, branch shedding and root damage.
The choice of species for training and pleaching is more limited than for general
avenue planting because they must produce growth that can be trained along wires
or bars or must respond to clipping by producing dense side—shoots similar to good
hedging plants. Indeed, many of the tree species used for hedging are also suitable
for pleaching. The most reliable are hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), beech (Fagus
sylvatica), limes (Tilia species), holly (Ilex aquifolium), cypress (Cupressus) and yew
(Taxus baccata). These not only produce dense foliage when trained and pruned
but can also be kept reasonably free from shoots from the bole once this has been
cleared to the desired height. Common spacings for pleached trees are between 2
and 4 metres to ensure quick establishment of a common canopy of even density.
Training trees over a framework of steel and wires to create a tunnel has been
practised with laburnum (Laburnum species especially L. X vossii) and wisteria
(I/Wsteria floribunda and W sinensis) to give a spectacular display of hanging
flowers. Laburnum tunnels can be gloomy at other times, because the foliage is
dull and the tunnel can be dauntingly long if it is not properly conceived as part
of a varied spatial sequence. Wisteria is better for this purpose because of its
longer flowering and better foliage.
Inspiration for new kinds of trained plant form can be found in horticultural
practices that use support for vine or tree crops. There is great potential for
application to amenity design. Consider, for example, the spatial qualities of
trained hop fields and kiwi fruit and how these could be adapted for public
landscape or private gardens. Pip fruit are sometimes trained on overhead
supports and this practice could also be interpreted in planting design.
Planting vines on specially designed structures is a way of bringing vegetation
into small spaces and places where trees would cause damage. It also offers many
exciting design opportunities, examples range from the artificial epiphyte pillars
of Roberto Burle—Marx to the bougainvillea parasols of Singapore.There are also
opportunities to develop local design idioms by interpreting characteristic
horticultural practices, such as kiwi fruit growing, or distinctive aspects of
natural vegetation, such as epiphytic trees.
CHAPTER 1 1
Ornamental
Planting
Ornamental planting can be described as the furnishing and elaboration of
landscape spaces after the basic proportions and structure have been formed by
the structure planting framework. This distinction between structure and
ornamental planting is not a rigid one, however, as structure planting frequently
includes many detailed and decorative aspects, and ornamental planting often
contributes to the definition and subdivision of a space. It is really a matter of
functional priorities. The main purposes of structure planting include spatial
definition, enclosure and microclimatic improvement, whereas those of
ornamental planting are the detailed use and enjoyment of a space.
The difference between structural and ornamental functions is also a matter
of scale. In small gardens, courtyards and single beds, some kinds of ornamental
planting can define space by itself — a seat can be tucked into the sheltered niche
between two spreading shrub roses, or a flowering specimen tree can create a
refuge below its arching canopy. On the other hand, if we closely examine a
selected detail of structure planting, such as a single plant in a forest or a
particular contrast in foliage, it is the ornamental qualities we notice first.
Ornamental planting is an important part of the landscape, not just in parks
and gardens but in streets, squares, car parks, recreation facilities, residential,
health, education, industry, business and retail complexes: in short, anywhere
that people can use and enjoy it.
The character and scale of ornamental planting varies from extensive areas of
mass shrub planting to the most intensively planted beds and containers. Large-
scale public sites demand planting that is reliable, robust and easy to maintain as
well as ornamental, but for protected sites and where reasonable maintenance is
available, planting can be more intricate and include a wide range of species.
In Part 1, we looked at the principles of visual composition that help us to bind
the elements of a scheme into an expressive whole, now we turn to the question
of the choice and arrangement of species for ornamental planting.
General Planting Areas
In public and private gardens there is a long tradition of bed and border
horticulture, including seasonal bedding, herbaceous and mixed borders,
shrubberies and island beds. In most public, corporate and institutional
landscape, a different approach is appropriate, partly because of the limited
funds and skills commonly available for maintenance, but also because this is
where the best opportunities to develop innovative design are often found.
Ornamental Planting 255
‘u I. '3 .5
M‘ L . I
Plate 172 Ornamental shrubs may have a Plate 173 Woodland or scrub structure planting
structural role within small spaces. This tree mallow consisting mostly of native species may offer detailed
(La-vatera thuringiaca ‘Kew Rose’) separates two seats decorative interest of flower, fruit and foliage as well
in the precinct of Leicester Cathedral, UK. as spatial definition and shelter.
Plate 174 Established shrubs and herbaceous Plate 175 The edges of planting beds need
plants spill over the path edge at Knightshayes protection in busy areas. These sloping walls of stone
Court, Devon, UK, to give a delightfully irregular sets are both a logical extension of the paving and an
natural outline. Note how the scale of the curves in attractive complement to the decorative qualities of
the outline reflects the size of the plant groupings. the plant material (Glasgow, Scotland).
Layout of Planting Areas
Before considering the plants themselves, the size and shape of planting areas
need to be determined. First we should pay attention to the relative proportions
of planting and grass, or planting and paved surface. Both grass and paving
provide an attractive foil to planting. Their visual simplicity and consistency
complements and supports the richness of planting. Because of its visual
softness, grass can occupy bigger areas than paving without looking bleak. Of
course, there are many locations where pavement is essential because of the
intensity of use and the extent of planting area that would be ideal may not be
available. In these circumstances we can still create a mass of vegetation in
balance with the area of hard surface, because what matters is not so much the
relative proportions of ground area, as the ratio of visible foliage to paving seen
256 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
from normal viewing angles. The visual area of foliage can be maximized by
planting trees and larger shrubs and using climbers and trailers to clothe vertical
surfaces.
The second question is what shape should planting areas be? It may be
dictated by the geometry of other elements in the space and the overall site
design (planting should always be an integral part of the overall landscape
design). In some cases, the shapes of planting areas might be the dominant
pattern form of the space.
One aesthetic quality in popular demand is planting’s ability to ‘soften’ the
precise outlines and manufactured construction materials of urban structures.
This is achieved by using varied colours and textures of foliage and by the
sinuous and irregular outlines of shrubs and trees.These organic shapes are the
result of natural plant growth so there is no need to copy them in the outlines of
planting areas in order to complement and contrast with geometric construction
elements. In fact, nothing looks more contrived than a slavishly irregular wavy
outline to an ornamental planting bed. This is not to say it is wrong to use
curvilinear form, but if we do, it should be shaped with conviction and be of
sufficient scale to remain apparent after the planting has matured.
There are some technical implications for the shape of planting areas that need
mention. In public areas, planting is vulnerable to trampling by pedestrians and
overrunning by vehicles. It can be given protection by raising it above ground
level or by using a high kerb, low wall or a rail to deter access. The correct
location of an area and its width are also an effective means of reducing
interference. A planting area that adjoins pedestrian areas on both sides should
generally be no less than 2 metres in width. This ensures that, even if some
damage is done at the edges, a substantial area of planting remains to grow and
spread. A border backed by a wall along one side is less vulnerable to trampling
and its width can be as little as 1 metre.
The way that the edges of beds and borders are treated affects the character
and quality of the design as a whole.Where the edge adjoins a lawn, it is common
Plate 176 Narrow planting beds do not provide adequate soil
conditions and are vulnerable to trampling.
Plate 177 An edging of stone to a herbaceous
border has many advantages. Grass cutting is easier,
plants can be allowed to spread over the edge, access
and work to the border in wet weather will cause less
damage to the edge of the lawn, and crispness of line
is visually satisfying (Sheffield, UK).
Ornamental Planting 257
to see the grass edge laboriously clipped and trimmed. This is done for the sake
of neatness and ease of cultivation in the border, but results in a stiff appearance
and causes the gradual reduction of the grass area through continuous trimming
back of the edge.The most convenient way to edge a lawn and planted border is
with a mowing strip of paving material such as brick, concrete or stone.This is a
classic feature that facilitates maintenance and allows plants to spread without
mowing damage. It also gives a crisp line to the edge of the grass and allows the
designer more precision in its layout. With a paved mowing edge, a lawn can be
laid out and maintained in angular and precise geometric shapes.
By far the most vulnerable parts of beds and borders are the corners. Frequent
trampling of angular corners is inevitable in public places and protection is
essential.The least intrusive way of reducing the problem is to give corners either
gentle radii or generous splays to eliminate sharp corners and protruding
sections. Even these more gradual corners should only be planted with the most
resilient species. Herbaceous plants or soft low shrubs would stand little chance
of survival in corner locations.
Planting Arrangement
The sight of dreary shrub borders and monotonous groundcover is too common
in the urban landscape.They consist of a very limited selection of utterly reliable
shrubs, a high proportion of evergreens and usually very little to excite us with
colour, form or seasonal change. Part of the explanation for uninspiring design
is the cost of establishment and maintenance, but costs need not dictate dull
planting if the designer has good plant knowledge and imagination. The aim
should be to achieve maximum visual quality in public areas without sacrificing
the dependability of the planting.
There are a number of ways of doing this: It is possible to introduce
herbaceous plants and larger bulbs by growing them through a carpet of
groundcover. The smaller trees are another important component of ornamental
beds, because of the height and volume of foliage, flower and fruit they
introduce, while occupying only a small space at ground level. There is often a
reluctance to plant even small, light foliage trees in confined spaces and close to
buildings because of shade and potential damage to structures. However, with
attention to the locations of underground services and the design of building
foundations, there is no technical reason why trees should not enrich small
spaces and complement building facades. In other cases, climbers trained on
specially designed structures could replace trees. These also have the advantage
of being fast to establish.
Canopy Layers
Trees, shrubs, climbers, groundcover, herbaceous plants and bulbs can all be
combined to create diverse ornamental planting associations in public and
private landscape. The key to ornamental planting areas, just as to effective
structure planting, is to fully exploit the available ground area, by making use of
the vertical arrangements the canopy and the seasonal rhythms of plant growth.
The main layers relevant to ornamental planting are the tree layer, shrub layer
and ground layer.
The tree layer should not be too dense, because an open tree canopy will allow
more diversity below, where the main focus of detailed ornamental planting is
often found. Also, if ornamental beds are in small spaces or close to buildings a
dense tree canopy can be too gloomy.
258 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 178 A mixed planting of shrubs and
herbaceous plants creates a fresh and colourful
Plate 179 It is partly the close proximity between
the small light-foliaged tree and the building that
ornamental landscape for this office development in makes this planting successful. Harmony of colour
Warrington, UK. Herbaceous plants in this scheme and complementary form and pattern make it a
include Bergenia, Iris,Astrantia major and Geranium
species.
pleasing association of trees and architecture in
Germany.
Plate 180 This multiple—layered ornamental Plate 181 The revival of interest in planting with
planting at Newby Hall, Yorkshire, UK, includes a
light tree canopy of Betula jaquemontii, a scattered
perennials including grasses and their use in public
spaces is well represented here at Thames Barrier
shrub layer of azaleas (Rhododendron sp.) and a Park in London.
diverse low groundcover including Tiarella cordifolia,
Bergenia, Polygonum afline and Alchemilla mollis.
The shrub layer can include shade tolerant or light—demanding species
according to the conditions created by the tree canopy. The role of tall shrubs,
this is those above eye level, in the canopy structure will depend on their form
and habit. Shrubs like Choisya ternata, Pieris floribunda and Leucadendron species
have a dome—like form and a dense evergreen habit that provides good weed
suppression, at least until they reach an advanced stage of maturity. A similar role
is played by thicket—forming species such as Nandina domestica, Kerria japonica,
and Cornus alba. Ornamental shrubs whose habit does not provide such good
groundcover and may need underplanting include those with upright and
arching forms, such as many Rosa, Syringa and I/%igela, and especially species in
which the upright habit is combined with a thin canopy, such as Tamarix,
Abutilon and Genista aetnensis. These shrubs with more open habits give us the
Ornamental Planting 259
opportunity to establish a layer of shade—tolerant low shrubs or herbaceous
plants below them.
The ground layer can include low shrubs with a dense spreading habit, such
as Cistus X skanbergii, Pimelea prostrata and Hebe pinguifolia, prostrate, layering
shrubs, such as Hedera cultivars, Fuchsia procumbens, Rubus parvus, Cotoneaster
dammeri, Coprosma ‘Hawera’ and Vinca species, and herbaceous plants that form
a vigorous spreading carpet, such as Lamium maculatum, Geranium
macrorrhizum, Tiarella cordifolia, and Pratia angulata. Some clump and tussock
forming herbaceous plants also make good groundcover when closely planted,
examples include renga renga (Arthropodium cirratum) and grasses and sedges
like Chiononchloa flavicans and Carex testacea. Most really effective groundcover
plants are evergreen or at least partially evergreen. However, there are some that,
although deciduous and maybe less attractive in winter, come into leaf early in
the growing season and are sufficiently vigorous to be as effective as many
evergreens in their ability to suppress weeds. Shrubs like Stephanandra incisa
‘Crispa’, many of the shrubby Potentilla cultivars, and herbaceous plants such as
Alchemilla mollis and Geranium endresii are all good examples of effective
deciduous groundcovers.
Ground—layer planting might be restricted to areas where there are no taller
shrubs or trees or they can be extended underneath the higher canopies. Species
should, of course, be carefully chosen to thrive in the conditions they will experience
at the time of planting as well as in the shade of the mature border. It is particularly
important when planning the ground layer to be sure it will hold its own in
competition with weeds. This is because, whereas some ‘weed’ growth under tall
shrubs and trees can be acceptable, low shrubs and herbs are more easily overrun
and weed control is more difficult among groundcover than under tall shrubs.
Good groundcover is therefore essential for ground layer planting. Once this
is provided for, we can start to introduce additional low shrubs and herbaceous
plants that, planted alone, would not suppress weeds. These added plants include
two important groups.The first is small deciduous or evergreen shrubs with open
habit, such as Caryopteris X clandonensis, Thryptomene cultivars and Genista lydia.
The second is made up of perennials tall enough to grow up through and emerge
above prostrate groundcover, including species and cultivars of Hemerocallis, Iris,
Campanula, Hosta, Crocosmia, Astelia, Agapanthus, Aloe, Yucca, Puya, sedges and
grasses.There are a huge number of very attractive herbaceous plants that can be
grown in this way, many of which are rare in public and commercial schemes
because they are unsuitable to plant on their own. The upright habit of many of
these plants is ideal both visually, because they contrast with a spreading canopy
below, and culturally, because the foliage does not cast too much shade on the
groundcover plants. Seasonal bulbs such as Narcissus, Galanthus, Schizostylis and
Crocus can also be grown in this way as an alternative to siting them in grass or
bare soil, provided that the groundcover will be low enough to allow the leaves
and flowers of the bulb to make sufficient growth above it. So the taller Narcissus
could be planted among Hedera helix groundcover cultivars but Crocus, Leucojum
and Galanthus would be more visible and persist longer in lower growing
groundcovers such as Vinca minor orAjuga reptans. Herbaceous plants, including
bulbs, that grow through low groundcover could be called ‘emergents’ because
their perennating buds are below the groundcover, but they grow through this
layer each season to emerge above it.
If we were to develop the vertical layering to its maximum potential we would
plant, in a single area, a ground layer of prostrate shrubs or groundcover
herbaceous plants with groups and drifts of emergent herbaceous perennials and
bulbs. Above this layer we would include a variety of medium and tall shrubs that
260 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
do not cast excessive shade. These would be in drifts or groups at moderate to
wide spacing so that most of the ground layer below remained visible from the
path at the edge. Some could be planted as individual specimens or as parts of
small specimen groups made up of plants of various height. Finally, occasional
trees would be included, grouped or individually, to add the top layer and to
punctuate the lower canopies with their trunks. This kind of spatial arrangement
allows us to include a lot of diversity without excessive complexity in any of the
layers. It would be appropriate for an ornamental scheme that we want to be rich
and varied, such as intensive sections of larger areas and in intricate borders in
small spaces.
In many designs we deliberately choose to simplify the layer structure for
aesthetic reasons. For example, the simplicity of an extensive monoculture may
be just what is needed to complement an intricate paving pattern or the facade
of a building. We should also remember that multiple—layer planting is
comparatively expensive because it packs a large number of plants into a small
area and it relies extensively on the smaller types of groundcover plants that
require high planting densities. So a simpler layer structure may be a necessity
because of cost. Medium and tall shrub thickets are a much cheaper method of
covering the ground because far fewer plants are needed. A monoculture can be
visually successful provided that the greatest care is taken in the choice of species
— it should be one with qualities of line form, texture and colour that combine
superbly with the other materials, and that look good through all seasons and
include some changes in flower, fruit or foliage through the year.
Successional Growth
Another way to make the fullest use of a given ground area is by selecting plants
whose main growth periods occur at different times of the year. This is found in
natural plant communities where, in European oak woods for example, pre-
vernal plants such as wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) and bluebell (Endymion
non—scriptus) make use of the period before the tree canopy is in full leaf to grow
and flower. Bluebells and other spring bulbs can be used in a similar fashion
beneath clumps of late leafing deciduous shrubs such as hazel (Corylus spp. and
cultivars) and hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus syriacus).
A succession of growth can also be achieved within the same canopy layer. For
example, Brunnera macrophylla and Hosta species do not come into full leaf until
late spring, often well into May in northern Europe, and this leaves a growth
window in early to mid—spring that can be exploited by plants such as bluebell,
snowdrops (Galanthus species) and Scilla. By the time the leaves of the summer
herbs have excluded the light, the spring bulbs will have begun to die down and
enter their natural period of dormancy.
Composition and Scale
For detailed treatment of the aesthetics of planting the reader should refer to
Chapters 6 and 7, on the visual characteristics of plants and principles of visual
composition. The effect of scale on plant groupings, however, deserves further
attention at this stage.
It is sometimes said that if you look at a planting plan you should be able to
understand the essence of the composition simply from the pattern of plant
groupings, without reading the names of the species. This is because the scale of
the drifts and clumps and specimens of each species should closely reflect its role
in composition.
Ornamental Planting 261
On the ground, the most intricate areas of planting naturally catch our
attention and attract closer scrutiny. The observer will dwell on and enjoy areas
of detail after passing more quickly over stretches of more uniform or closely
harmonious planting. This is true even if these larger drifts are more vividly
coloured or of dominant texture. Because of this, areas of intricate planting tend
to be the highlights of a composition, and should be reserved for the best
locations such as near entrances, and garden architecture, in courtyards, by
flights of steps, at pivot points of paths, or in the foreground of views from a seat.
All these key locations have something in common: they are places at which we
naturally pause. Other sections of planting areas should be simple, in contrast,
partly because of the speed of observation and partly because a change in scale
will enhance both the bolder and the more intricate associations. It could be said
of composition, that variety in scale is more important than variety of species.
Relative scale in ornamental planting can vary by a factor of ten or more. In
the simpler parts of a planting scheme, drifts of a species might be ten times the
size of groups in the most detailed areas. In a focal plant grouping, one species
might occupy no more than 2 or 3 square metres, whereas alongside an approach
path or next to a building one species might cover 20—30 square metres. Between
these extremes, a transition can be made with planting of intermediate scale or,
in some cases, we may want an abrupt contrast.
Accents
Highlights of ornamental planting can be provided by a single, dramatic accent
shrub or tree that has outstanding form. This role is well played by plants like
Phormium, Yucca and Furcraea with their sword—like leaves and imposing flower
spikes or Aralia elata ‘Variegata’ with its handsome, variegated, pinnate foliage
radiating from the tops of the stems. Striking colour can also provide an effective
accent. If this is the colour of flowers or fruits it will be only temporary, but while
in bloom, shrubs like Embothrium coccineum with its flame scarlet flowers, Cornus
kousa with branches clothed in creamy white bracts, and Magnolia X soulangeana
with its white and purple goblets massed on the branches are eye—catching sights.
A combination of fruit and foliage colour can be just as striking. Euonymus
oxyphyllus is clothed in early autumn with purple and red foliage just as its
branches are strung with carmine and orange fruits. The feathery foliage of
Sorbus vilmoriniana turns a rich purple in vivid contrast to its white berries. Stem
colour can be as effective as fruits and, especially when seen with autumn foliage,
can provide an effective accent. Acer griseum, for example, combines peeling
orange—brown bark with the intense reds and oranges of its autumn leaves. The
snake bark maples and some birches, especially Betula ermanii, B. albosinensis
septentrionalis and B. jaquemontii all offer both ornamental bark and colourful
autumn foliage. Form and colour highlights are combined in specimens such as
Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’ with tabulate sprays of glistening silver variegated
foliage, and Acerjaponicum ‘Aureum’ with butter yellow, exquisitely shaped leaves
spreading in horizontal tiers. Perhaps the foliage shrub that demands attention
more than any other is the pink Chinese toon tree, Cedrela sinensis ‘Flamingo’
with foliage that emerges a shocking pink colour in spring.
The effectiveness of an accent depends on its setting. The background should
be comparatively plain and contrast with the main characteristics of the accent
plant in front.Yucca foliage and flowers, for example, are most noticeable when
their pale colours and bold texture are set against a dark, fine background such
as Taxus baccata, and the ascending lines of its leaves and flower spike are most
dramatic when rising from prostrate form such as that of funiperus horizontalis or
262 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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Planting for a public garden showing tall shrub mix enclosing the site on two sides, ornamental
planting and climbers on pergola. Note the concentration of planting detail near seats and entrances.
Ornamental Planting 263
alongside the dome of Viburnum davidii or Cistus X corbariensis.The rugged, dark
green leaves of loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) would provide a strong focus
contrasted with the feathery, greyish foliage of olive (Olea europaea). Fatsia
japonica’s luxuriant green foliage is most striking contrasted with the elegance
and fine texture of plants such as Fargesia nitida.
Even plants that would appear rather ordinary in many combinations, can
become a striking accent when placed in an association carefully planned for the
purpose. Sambucus racemosa ‘Plumosa Aurea’, for example, against a fine
textured, deep green backcloth of Buxus sempervirens and with its leaves back—lit
by low sun, can be very impressive.
Accent Groups
The role of a visual accent can also be played by a group of, say, three or five
species each with its own special merit, but designed to form a harmonious
specimen group. In such an association every aspect of form, colour and texture
should be carefully worked to provide the right degree of tension between
harmony and contrast and to produce a dynamic focus.
Form is a good starting point for composition of an accent group because it is
usually the most permanent of the aesthetic characteristics. Preben Jakobsen
(1977) emphasized the role of form in accent planting and described some
Plate 182 The assertive form of Astelia chathamica Plate 183 The inspiration for a specimen group
in the foreground makes it an effective accent plant might come from a natural plant assemblage such as
in this public square in Whakatane, New Zealand. this rainforest group of nikau (Rhopalostylis sapida)
Here it is contrasted with the fine textures of the kawakawa (Macropiper excelsa) and pate (Schefilera
korokio (Corokia X -virgata), pohuehue digitata) in Paparoa National Park, New Zealand. In
(Muehlenbeckia axillaris) and sand coprosma suitably shady and moist conditions the three
Coprosma acerosa. species could be planted to form the ornamental
‘plant signature’ of the forest from which they
originated.
264 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 184 Astelia,Anigo2anthos and Pachystegia,
against a background of Corokia hedge, make a
simple and striking specimen group near the
entrance to the observatory in Wellington Botanic
Garden.
typical relationships between two, three or four different forms that, together,
would create an accent group. The simplest combination he describes is the
placing of distinct bold visual dominants in a carpet or ‘base plane’ of
groundcover. Three forms might comprise a sculptural tall shrub anchored by
the domes of lower shrubs but both rising above a prostrate groundcover. A
further addition would give what Jakobsen called ‘A basic triad plant
composition’, set in a complementary groundcover carpet. This triad ‘could
consist of a sculptural, multi—stemmed Aralia elata, a dome shape or hummock
of Hebe rakaiensis and a spiky linear form such as Phormium tenax.’
Textural and colour relationships in accent groups can support the
juxtaposition of forms. In the example given above, the bold foliage of Aralia and
Phormium is emphasized as well as complemented by the fine texture of the Hebe.
A medium textured groundcover species such as Pachysandra terminalis or Hedera
‘Green Ripple’ would be an ideal bridge between the extremes of texture of the
main triad. The Aralia and Hebe both have mid green foliage, although Hebe is
rather fresher and more yellow—green in hue. This yellowish tint to the foliage
could be picked out by choosing a Phormium with a cream variegation such as P
cookianum ‘Cream Delight’ or I? tenax ‘Veitchii’. These bright warm greens and
creams would stand out strongly from a dark green groundcover. Pachysandra
would be a possible choice or the groundcover could contribute colour highlights
in harmony with the main triad: Hypericum X moseranum combines a neat
medium textured foliage carpet with a long display of abundant large yellow
flowers. In warmer climates Lantana ‘Spreading Sunshine’ provides a low carpet
with cream and yellow flowers.
Planting Patterns
Our discussion so far has been concerned mainly with vertical distribution of
plants but should also consider their arrangement in the horizontal plane.Within
the main canopy layers, different species can be arranged in a variety of different
patterns. Each type of arrangement will have different effects on the finished
composition.
In nature, shrub and herb communities typically consist of ‘colonies’ of a
species massed together, or of small groups and individuals intermixed with
other species. Massing, grouping and mixing are also used in planted
associations, both where the aim is a naturalistic appearance and in the exotic
ornamental schemes.
The planting patterns that we use will depend on both aesthetic and technical
factors. Some species are particularly gregarious and mingle well with others of
Ornamental Planting 265
similar stature to produce a tapestry of foliage. Others are more ‘self—contained’.
These grow better and look more at home grouped with their own kind or as
individual specimens. For example, mass planting appears to suit the visual
character of many groundcovers such as ivy (Hedera helix, H. canariensis and H.
colchica), rose of Sharon (Hypericum calycinum) and Pachysandra terminalis, renga
renga (Arthropodium cirratum) and grasses and sedges. Taller plants that are
effective in mass planting include Hebe species and harakeke (Phormium tenax).
There are two patterns of plant arrangement commonly seen on planting
plans. One comprises blocks of a single species and occasional mixtures that are
butted—up together to fill the planting area. The other consists of each plant
individually marked. These are both well—practised techniques. The first has the
advantages of providing a bold mass of each plant that confidently displays its
aesthetic qualities, and is simple and quick to draw. The second method allows
detailed control of design and precision in the instructions shown on the plan —
every single plant is accounted for. There are, however, other and combined
methods of arranging the plants and showing this on plan that allow both
subtlety of design and economy of drafting.
The shapes of the blocks of each species have an effect on the three-
dimensional appearance of the planting on the ground. Rounded or near—square
areas will produce a patchwork quilt appearance from above. From eye level,
however, the blocks will appear smaller in scale and self—contained, even isolated,
because their full depth is either foreshortened or hidden. The relationship
between adjacent species in this kind of layout can appear rather rigid, but if we
allow the groups to interlock and interweave the relationships become more
intimate and more varied and we can see new aspects of each species, as they
associate in different ways with their neighbours. One species can appear in front
of, behind and within a block of another. In this way we can get various
permutations from a given range of species. An effective method of linking
species, particularly if the bed is narrower than it is long, is to stretch them in the
direction of the bed to form extended drifts. These drifts can run in front of and
behind their neighbours and bind the planting together into a woven tapestry.
When viewed in elevation, linear drift planting appears well grounded because
the blocks of species are longer than they are tall. The spreading, horizontal
outlines of plant masses can be punctuated by well placed vertical accents and
anchored by the occasional solid dome—shaped shrub or small group. Drift
planting also improves the appearance of the planting as a whole when some of
the plants are not at their peak, because the overlapping of drifts allows other
species in front and behind to take over. This applies both to deciduous
herbaceous, which die back in the dormant season, and to shrubs that are leafless
or of less interest at certain times of the year.
Another way of enlivening blocks and drifts of a single species is to introduce
some overlap and mixing at the edges. An intermediate strip between species
blocks can be planted with a mixture of the two adjacent species. The width of
this overlap can be whatever we like, but 10 to 20 per cent of the width of the
blocks would usually be an effective proportion. The mix could be half and half,
or the percentage of one species may be increased to compensate for the greater
vigour of the other.This arrangement of overlapping groups is similar to some of
the patterns of distribution we find in nature and it will give the association a
spontaneous, informal appearance.
Overlapping will speed up the process of territorial competition that would
happen anyway unless effort was applied to maintain separation between the
species. Such dynamic development of ornamental planting is not necessarily a
problem, it can be rewarding to watch the balance between species and the
266 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
character of the composition change. Landscape managers and gardeners
sometimes regard it as their duty to impose a strict discipline, stifling change and
rigidifying the appearance of planting. This is mostly unnecessary. It is only if
valuable species are likely to be altogether lost, or if the planting is not serving its
purpose, that intervention is needed.
On the other hand, designers should take care to choose species that are
compatible in the growth rate and mode of spread. Otherwise many of the plants
included in the initial planting may have disappeared within four or five years,
having been suppressed by more vigorous neighbours.
We can take the grouping and mixing of species as far as we wish. We could
cover a defined area with a mix of several different species in a similar way to
much structure planting. The mix could be of ground layer or of taller species
and distribution within it random or grouped. For example, Cotoneaster simonsii,
Pyracantha rogersiana and Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’ are shrubs that combine
well in an intimate tall mix and Vinca minor, Hosta lancifolia and Campanula
poscharskyana could be grouped to form a diverse groundcover in light shade.
Ecological Ornamental Planting
An ecological approach is not only relevant to native planting. The same
principles of closely matching species to habitat and planning for dynamic plant
associations can be applied to design with exotics including ornamental planting.
It is also true that many exotic garden species planted for their decorative
qualities also provide valuable food and shelter for wildlife. Buddleja davidii and
Fatsia japonica both attract large numbers of butterflies, and many familiar
garden plants such as hebe, lavender and Skimmia japonica attract bees. Many
birds also find a valuable food source in gardens, feeding on flowers, fruit and
insects.
The use of ecological principles in ornamental planting was first advocated by
the British Victorian garden designer and writerWilliam Robinson. He developed
Plate 186
A meadow
and scrub
wild garden
at Santa
Barbara
Botanic
Gardens
features
Californian
native herbs
and shrubs
in a setting
of
mountains
clothed in
Chaparral
scrub.
:14.-Lt
Plate 185 This woodland wild garden at Wisley in
Surrey, UK, consists of a mix of naturalized exotic
herbaceous species including Alszroemeria,
Campanula, Geranium,Astrantia major,Aconizum and
Astilbe mixed with natives such as Digitalis purpurea
and Hieracium. The utmost sensitivity in
management is required to establish and maintain
this kind of planting.
Ornamental Planting 267
an approach that he called wild gardening: ‘... the term “Wild Garden” is
applied essentially to the placing of perfectly hardy exotic plants under
conditions where they will thrive without further care’ (Robinson, 1870).William
Robinson was particularly interested in herbaceous plants and thoroughly
approved of mixing robust exotics like Michaelmas daisy (Aster novi—belgii),
golden rod (Solidago) and evening primrose (Oenothera missouriensis), with
attractive natives such as bluebell (Endymion non—scriptus), foxglove (Digitalis
purpurea) and lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis). He also showed how hardy,
vigorous shrubs such as Spiraea species and Clematis montana could coexist
happily with native plants. One of Robinson’s objectives was to reduce the labour
required to maintain plantings. Because this aim is still relevant in most
landscape projects today, we find ourselves using many of the same exotic shrubs
species for similar reasons.
The principles of wild gardening with herbaceous plants have been taken up
and developed by horticulturalist—designers like Richard Hansen in Germany,
who seeds and plants meadows and borders with exotic perennials carefully
chosen to suit the habitat conditions and with the intention that they will at least
maintain themselves if not naturalize. His plantings do not require conventional
ongoing weed control, only the initial suppression of the most competitive
‘weeds’, in order to allow the introduced species enough time to establish.
The best British examples of wild gardens can be found in the woodlands of
old established gardens such as Wisley in Surrey and Knightshayes Court in
Devon. Here we can see perennials such as Alstroemeria, Campanula lactiflora,
Tradescantia, Astilbe, Astrantia major, Aconitum and Crocosmia X crocosmiiflora
spreading among showy natives like Digitalis purpurea, Hieracium, Dactylorhiza
and Geranium pratense and competing vigorously with other indigenous
woodland field—layer plants. The delight of this kind of association is in the
spontaneity and luxuriance of growth which combines with as much colour and
flower as would be found in any formal display.
Even if we do not stress the ecology of plant relationships at the design stage
there will still be the chance to benefit later from the natural opportunism of both
native and exotic plants. A groundcover of Hedera helix, for example, is an ideal
site for the establishment of tree seedlings. Most tree species have little difficulty
in growing through its low foliage and, once above it, will benefit from the high
light levels but not suffer the intense competition that would come from vigorous
weed growth.Trees like oak and ash, which carry a substantial food store in their
seed, are capable of establishing above taller shrub groundcovers such as Lonicera
pileata and Symphoricarpos X doorenbosii. Some ornamental shrubs such as
Buddleja davidii and herbaceous plants such as Alchemilla mollis, set seed
prolifically and their progeny emerge in large numbers from patches of bare
earth, gravel and the joints in paving and walls. We can allow selected seedlings
to establish and form part of the association as long as they are not likely to cause
problems of shading or obstruction in the future. The result can be a lively
spontaneity that would be difficult to achieve on the drawing board.
Plant Spacing
Planting distances often cause some consternation to students undertaking their
first planting projects. This is because there are no hard and fast rules for a
seemingly straightforward aspect of horticultural technique. In addition,
students may be familiar with the planting distances employed in traditional
parks and private gardens. These can be much greater than those suited to most
landscape projects, and so the numbers of plants specified on landscape planting
268 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
plans can appear inordinately large. There are horticultural, practical and
aesthetic reasons for these differences.
In most planting schemes for public authorities or other organizations, and
even in some private gardens, one of the first objectives will be to reduce the
labour of maintenance to the lowest level compatible with the character of the
planting. This demands a weed—suppressing canopy as soon as possible. Most
landscape contracts include a two—year aftercare and establishment period and
the planting will stand the best chance of success after this period if substantial
groundcover has already been achieved before the site is handed back to the
client.The client is usually prepared to pay the capital cost of dense planting in
order to keep the ongoing cost of maintenance as low as possible. Groundcover
also allows us to get the maximum visual interest in the given area. Bare earth is
not as attractive as foliage and flowers, so why continue to pay for it, year after year?
The popular tradition of widely spaced plants in cultivated ground derives
from the methods of growing herbs and vegetables and flowers for cutting and
also from the Gardenesque school of design in Victorian England.The originator
of this style was ]. C. Loudon who proposed that trees and shrubs be grown as
specimens ‘... not pressed on during their growth by any other objects and
allowed to throw out their branches equally on every side, uninjured by cattle or
other animals, and, if touched by the hand of a gardener, only to be improved in
their regularity and symmetry’ (Loudon, 1838).
The Gardenesque style has remained strongly represented in public amenity
horticulture to this day and this is reflected in public taste and in many private
gardens. A typical spacing for flowering shrubs such as the larger Philadelphus or
Rhododendron in a traditional park would be 2 metres or more apart. This will
allow each plant to develop a full, spreading canopy and a gardener to hoe or
spray beneath its canopy. However, if these shrubs were used in a landscape
planting for quick establishment and weed suppression their spacing would need
to be planted in a thicket between 1 and 1.5 metres, that is, between two and four
times the density.
High planting densities common in landscape work do sometimes cause
problems as the scheme approaches maturity. Species like broom (Cytisus
species) and sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) are apt to become drawn and
leggy and this is exacerbated by close planting. In many cases this can be
overcome by hard pruning to promote bushy growth from the base, but some
shrubs, such as Cytisus and Lavandula, rarely recover from this treatment. For
species that cannot be hard pruned we must either accept bare stems in the lower
canopy or plant them more widely, with a carpet of groundcover below.
The precise spacing for a particular species will depend on several factors: its role
in the association, the soil and climatic conditions, and the level of maintenance
care that will be available. However, we can establish some rules of thumb for
groundcover spacing. The mature height of the species gives some guidance, but
there is no simple, direct relationship between height and spread and the choice of
spacing and it is further complicated by the relative rates of growth of different
species. For example, Brachyglottis ‘Sunshine’ and Spiraea thunbergii both grow to
0.8—1 metre tall in cultivation but the Brachyglottis is more spreading and faster
growing and so can be planted at approximately half the density of the Spiraea.The
mode of spread as well as the vigour of prostrate shrubs dramatically affect the time
it takes to form a closed canopy over a given area. Rubus tricolor and funiperus
sabina ‘Tamariscifolia’ are similar in height but the speed of growth and the layering
habit of Rubus enable it to cover large areas within two or three growing seasons.
The juniper, on the other hand, spreads evenly but slowly, and to achieve cover in
the same time would need to be planted at two or three times the density.
Ornamental Planting 269
Because of such differences in habit and vigour good plant knowledge is
necessary if we are to be confident of choosing the ideal spacing for any species
in a particular location. However, it is possible to give indicative ranges of density
for typical plants in a number of different categories, based on experience of their
performance in a range of site conditions.
Table 1 1.1 Typical plant spacings
Plants Spacing Density
Vigorous alpines, compact dwarf herbaceous
plants, dwarf grasses up to 200 mm high
e.g. Festuca glauca, Ophiopogon japonicus
Ajuga reptans, Acaena caesiiglauca 200—350 mm 25—8/m2
Spreading herbaceous plants, grasses and
prostrate shrubs up to 300 mm high
e.g. Geranium macrorrhizum, Hebe pinguifolia,
Liriope muscari, Scleranthus biflorus 300—450 mm 1 1—15/m2
Dwarf hummock shrubs, herbaceous, grasses
300-500 mm high
e.g. Lavandula ‘Hidcote’, Felicia amelloides
Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis 350—500 mm 8—4/m2
Vigorous spreaders, small to medium grasses
up to 500 mm high
e.g. Hedera ‘Hibernica’, Convolvulus sabatius,
Carex testacea, Fuchsia procumbens 450—700 mm 5—2/m2
Small shrubs, medium grasses 500 mm—1.0 m high
e.g. Brachyglottis ‘Sunshine’, Coleonema ‘Sunset’
Viburnum davidii, Chionochloa flatzicans, Convolvulus
cneorum 600—900 mm 3—1.25/m2
Medium shrubs, tall grasses 1.0 m—1.5 m high
e.g. Rhaphiolepis X delacourii ‘Enchantress’, Hebe
‘Midsummer Beauty’, Correa alba, Cortaderia fulvida 700 mm—1 m 2—1/m2
Tall shrubs 1.5 m—2.5 m high
e.g. Pyracantha cultivars, Berberis linearifolia ‘Orange
King’, Cassia corymbosa ‘]ohn Ball’, Abelia X
grandiflora 800 mm—1.5 m 1.5—0.5/m2
Vigorous shrubs over 2.5 m high
e.g. Photinia dat1idiana,Amelanchier canadensis,
Viburnum odoratissimum, Banksia ericifolia 1—2 m 1—0.25/m2
Transplant trees and shrubs in mass plantation
e.g. two— and three—year—old native trees and shrubs 1—2 m 1—0.25/m2
Note that heights apply to the foliage canopy at early maturity and under average
growth conditions and that the categories for grasses should be taken to apply also
to the sedges, rushes and other comparable plants. Within each category the least
vigorous species should be spaced towards the dense end of the range and the most
vigorous towards the sparse end of the range. In poor soil or high exposure, or if
aftercare work must be kept to an absolute minimum, spacing should be at the close
end of the range, but if growth conditions are very good and aftercare provision
270 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
generous, we can widen the spacing and economize on planting stock. For example,
in average conditions Brachyglottis ‘Sunshine’ can be planted at 700 mm apart and
be expected to form a more or less closed canopy after three years. If the growing
season is long and moist two years will be sufficient. Spiraea thunbergii is rather
slower spreading and would need an initial spacing of 500 mm to form groundcover
in three seasons. In very poor, dry soil it would be advisable to plant Brachyglottis at
600 mm apart and Spiraea at 400 mm apart. In a deep, rich soil on a sheltered site
we could plant Senecio at 900 mm apart and Spiraea at 600 mm apart.
Table 11.1 can be used as a guide but the best way to judge planting spacing
is to observe planting schemes at various stages of development on the ground
and assess the spacing used. We should remember that it is really only when a
species has been planted in order to provide groundcover that spacing is critical.
If it is to form a specimen group with groundcover provided by a lower layer of
planting or if it is growing out of gravel or rocks (inorganic groundcover) then its
spacing is purely a matter of aesthetic judgement.
On planting plans it is best to indicate centres (spacing) rather than density,
because it is easier to achieve consistency by setting out at, say, 700 mm centres
than by marking 1 metre X 1 metre squares and trying to decide exactly where in
the square the two plants should be located.When it comes to the effectiveness of
the planting it is the distance between each plant measured on the ground that is
important. However, in the case of very close spacing the specification of density
is acceptable because at, say, 250 mm apart the exact positioning of the 16 plants
in each square metre matters little provided that they are evenly distributed.
When plant quantities are ‘taken off’ a drawing or we need to calculate a
budget cost estimate, centres must be converted to densities in order to find the
numbers required.Table 1 1.2 gives approximate equivalents accurate enough for
calculating quantities in most circumstances.
Table 11.2 Converting spacing to density
Planting centres (mm) Planting density (No/m2)
200 25
250 16
300 11
350
400
450
500
600
700
800
900
1000
1200
1500
2000
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Note that these densities assume a square grid and that this grid can be staggered
without affecting the quantity of plants. Much planting consists of even spacing but
is not necessarily set out in lines. Such an arrangement would approximate to a
staggered grid and so the same densities apply. Because careful placing of individual
plants is often needed at the corners and edges of a bed it is wise to allow a few extra
plants for this, or at least to round up the numbers to the nearest five or ten.
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Ornamental Planting 271
Setting Out
The setting out of planting never requires as much precision as is needed for
some hard landscape. For most planting it is enough to draw the positions of
groups and individuals on the plan so that they can be read with a scale rule.
Sometimes, however, figured dimensions are advisable. Exact positions of plants
lines in hedges are best set out by showing a dimension from a fixed point. The
positions of specimen trees can be critical, and figured dimensions from a
building, wall or pavement edge are needed.This is important in formal avenues,
because the visual effect is dependent on a regular interval between trees. It may
also be necessary to specify the distance of trees from underground or overhead
services to make sure that planting meets guidelines and easements. Although
most of these locations can be determined in the studio, it is often easier to locate
trees in relation to services on site, at the time of planting. We can note on the
planting plan that trees are ‘to be set out on site by the landscape architect’.
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272 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
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the planting which includes familiar garden species such as lavender, rose, tree mallow and hosta.
The advice given so far is applicable to all kinds of ornamental planting.There
are some places and kinds of planting, however, which have additional
constraints and opportunities. We will now look at how the designer can take
advantage of these.
Raised Planting and Container Planting
Raised beds and container planting are common in streets, squares, courtyards,
car parks and private gardens. They may be built for a variety of reasons: to allow
for topsoil where there is none at ground level and excavations is not possible, to
protect the planting from trampling, to provide spatial definition and enclosure,
and to make planting more accessible to people, especially children and the
disabled. Small containers, pots and hanging baskets are used to provide
temporary and mobile flower and foliage displays for buildings, gardens and
shows.
When we choose species for raised beds and containers we keep in mind the
relatively inhospitable growth environment they will experience. The topsoil will
Ornamental Planting 273
Plate 187 To allow luxuriant growth, planters that Plate 188 If raised planters are to include standard
are separate from natural ground (such as these on a trees, a generous width is desirable because this
roof garden in San Francisco), must be of sufficient allows good capture of natural precipitation (Union
width and depth to provide adequate soil volume Square, Seattle, USA).
and avoid rapid drying out.
almost certainly have to be imported and may be composed of a mixture of
mineral based, natural topsoil and manufactured composts and so we need to
specify it closely to ensure quality. A minimum topsoil depth of 400 mm is
advisable, unless the planting is restricted to undemanding groundcover species,
and 500 mm would be better for small beds. Proper drainage is essential to avoid
waterlogging. Raised beds are vulnerable to drought and so automatic irrigation
can be a great advantage, but, for a small amount of planting, the cost of this may
not be justified.
Unless they are irrigated, plants in raised beds and containers will experience
more frequent and more severe water stress than those in natural ground.This is
because the surface area for water collection is small, the lateral movement of
ground water is obstructed, and the soil in the bed is either disconnected from
natural ground (preventing upwards movement of water from the natural water
table), or it is at least raised further above the natural water table. The water-
holding capacity of a given volume of growing medium is partly dependent on its
shape: the narrower and higher the bed, the less water will be held against
gravitational drainage. This is one reason why wide raised beds are better than
narrow ones.Widths of less than one metre will make establishment significantly
more difficult.
Whatever the shape of the planter it is still wise to choose drought resistant
species, particularly if the bed is in a sunny position where soil evaporation and
plant transpiration are greater. Planting large nursery stock in raised planters is
only likely to be successful if there is an irrigation system, because bigger
transplants are particularly vulnerable to water stress. Standard trees, for
example, in raised beds rarely establish and are often seen with severe die—back.
Raised planters are often found where planting space is severely restricted and
so the designer needs to make maximum use of a small area.Tall growing shrubs
provide the bulk of foliage, and trailing plants can be valuable when planted at
the edges to clothe the sides of the planter.
Raised planting allows small shrubs and herbaceous plants to be easily enjoyed
at close quarters. Because of this, raised planters can make planting more
accessible to people with disabilities and also give an opportunity for intricate
274 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
and small—scale work that needs to be appreciated close—to. The planters and
troughs traditionally used for displaying alpine plants are examples of the scale
of horticulture that can be accommodated in raised planters and containers.This
kind of intricacy is most successful if generic scale relationships are maintained
by locating it in comparatively small scale spaces.
Walls, Pergolas,Trellis and other Vine Supports
These provide spatial definition, giving enclosure, separation and shelter, but
they usually combine their structure role with a decorative one, so we will discuss
their planting further. Vertical surfaces of walls and the open frameworks of
pergolas, trellis and other plant supports provide prime opportunities to grow
ornamental plants that cannot be established in the open. Also, the contrast
between the architecture of the structure and the character of the plants
heightens the qualities of both.
Masonry walls, whether free—standing or part of a building, affect the
microclimate in their vicinity. If they face the midday sun, these walls will receive
a great deal of direct sun during the day. The warmth is absorbed and reradiated
at cooler times of day. Masonry walls work on the same principle as an electric
storage heater, which contains bricks that store and slowly radiate heat. A wall
that faces the afternoon sun (south—west in the northern hemisphere, north—west
in the southern hemisphere) is ideal for plants that are not cold hardy. These
walls absorb the midday and afternoon sun and retain warmth for longer after
sunset than walls that get sun earlier in the day. Walls and fences also give shelter
from wind and thus reduce transpiration on hot days and wind chill in the
winter. Even walls that face away from the sun give some shelter and create a
good growth environment for shade loving plants.
East—facing walls catch the early morning sun and, if this occurs after a severe
night frost, the rapid warming of plant tissues can damage the foliage or flowers
of less hardy species. So for east—facing walls in cold climates it is best to avoid
plants such as some Camellia and Magnolia species that come into leaf or into
flower in early spring when there is still danger of severe frosts.
Walls with a sunny aspect provide a great opportunity to extend the range of
species and grow plants that are outstanding in their aesthetic qualities but
unreliable without some protection. In cool temperate areas, Ceanothus,
Magnolia,Abutilon and Abelia, for example, can be planted here with confidence.
In warm temperate climates such sheltered protected locations allow the growth
of subtropical species.
Overhead protection can be important for less hardy plants for two reasons.
First, it reduces frost by interrupting radiation of heat from the ground. Second,
it moderates the extremes of climate and creates a microclimate in which plants
are less likely to dry out, suffer from wind chill and wind desiccation, and from
overheating of leaf tissue. Vireya rhododendrons, orchids, many bromeliads and
bouvardias all appreciate conditions of partial shade and shelter that resemble
those of the forest interior.
West—facing walls are good locations for plants that benefit from protection
from cold and windy aspects but do not like the hotter and dryer conditions of
the midday sun. In Britain such plants include Solanum crispum, Camellia species
and Itea illicifolia. A shady wall, although it does not provide a site for growing
tender specimens, can be clothed with shrubs and climbers that flower and fruit
well without extended sun exposure. Pyracantha cultivars, Mahonia X media and
Hydrangea petiolaris species all enjoy the partial protection of a north—facing wall
in Britain. Shade—loving foliage plants such as Fatsia japonica, Hosta species and
Ornamental Planting 275
Plate 189 A
south—west facing
wall is an ideal
location for
growing tender
climbers and
shrubs such as
Camellia
saluenensis, Cytisus
battandieri, Acacia
dealbata, Abutilon
species and
Magnolia
grandiflora
(Bodnant, Wales).
Plate 190 A well—proportioned pergola furnished
with Vitis, Wisteria and Clematis at Barrington Court,
UK.
Plate 191 These steel and wire structures are
specially designed to introduce vegetation into a busy
confined space in Germany. The climber is Wisteria.
Plate 192 This pergola displays a relatively high proportion of
structure to foliage but the balance is successful because of the quality
of the timber—work at Het Loo, The Netherlands.
ferns find the conditions ideal because shade is provided without the dry
conditions typical below a tree canopy.
Along with the advantages offered by wall culture there are two common
problems.The soil adjacent to the bottom of a wall is likely to be dry because the
masonry will absorb moisture. Also, the lime in mortar and foundation rubble
causes an alkaline soil reaction and so calcifuges make poor wall shrubs. The
other disadvantage is that a building wall topped by eaves or an overhang creates
a rain shadow, and if there is no guttering the drip can also be damaging. Because
of this, climbers and shrubs are best planted away from the wall (at least 300
mm) and trained towards it as they grow, and groundcover needs to be drip
tolerant.
276 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
Plate 193 This decorative fence is designed with climbers in
mind. Hydrangea petiolaris is able to scramble up the open timber-
work with the aid of occasional tying in to the laths (German
garden festival site).
Plate 194 Vitis coignetiae rambles through this double row of steel
posts with the aid of wires strung between the posts and forms a
sculptural combination of hard and soft elements at Broadwater
Park, Denham, UK.
Pergolas, trellis, fences and arbours also provide the opportunity to grow
climbers. Indeed climbers are usually essential ingredients in the success of these
structures. Climbers fall into two general groups. There are those that twine and
scramble over other trees and shrubs, attaching themselves by devices such as
twining stems (e.g. I/Wsteria), tendrils (Passiflora), petioles (Clematis), or thorns
(roses), and those climbers that attach themselves to tree trunks, rock faces and
walls by means of aerial roots (e.g. Hedera and Metrosideros sp.) or small sucker
pads (e.g. Parthenocissus sp.). The first group are ideal for pergolas and trellis
where they can weave in and out of a framework. If they are to be grown against
a wall, they need the support of a trellis or wires. The ‘self clinging’ climbers are
less suited on an open framework, preferring a solid surface provided it is not too
smooth, but they do benefit from a wire or small trellis to which they can be tied
until their shoots have become attached to the surface.
The choice of climbers for pergolas and trellis depends on aspect, but because
the structure is permeable, variations in shelter and shade will be less dramatic
than for wall planting. The most demanding climbers should be reserved for
sheltered walls. In northern Europe and other cool temperate areas these might
include I/Wsteria species, Vitis species, Akebia quintata,Aristolochia macrophylla,
Campsis grandiflora and Eccremocarpus scaber. For free—standing trellis, climbers
need to be more dependable, like clematis (especially C. montana cultivars, C.
alpina and C. macropetala), honeysuckles (Lonicera periclymenum and L. X
tellmanniana) and climbing roses (such as Rosa ‘Albertine’ and R. ‘Zephirine
Drouhin’). Although roses are among the most showy of climbers we should
remember that they do need a lot more pruning and training than other species
and so may be unsuitable for many sites. Reliable climbers for warm temperate
areas include Campsis, Hardenbergia, fasminum, Bougaintzillea, Lonicera
hildebrandtiana, I/Wsteria, and such like.
The object of most climber and wall shrub planting will not be to create a
continuous mass of foliage but to achieve a balance between the foliage area and
the masonry facade or pattern of the climbing framework. Because of this, mass
Ornamental Planting 277
planting and close spacing is not necessary and most wall shrubs and climbers
are treated as specimens or small groups, while groundcover for the planting bed
is provided by a lower canopy layer. The spacing of climbers on a wall is
determined by the balance of foliage to wall that is wanted and the positions of
windows and doors. Trellis and frameworks constructed specifically to support
climbers could be more regularly and densely planted, but it is often best to keep
a proportion of uncovered trellis to provide a contrast to the climber’s foliage.
Spacing most climbers between 1 and 3 metres apart, depending on their vigour,
usually achieves a good balance.
Trellis, mesh or a climber framework can be used where a dense barrier and
screen is needed quickly and in a narrow strip of ground. This kind of structure
is like a narrow hedge and can be established within a width of about 0.5 metres.
Such a ‘living fence’ would be planted generously with vigorous climbers.
Russian vine (Polygonum baldschuanicum) and traveller’s joy (Clematis vitalba) are
the fastest growing and need only be planted at 2 metres apart along the line of
the fence. If the living fence is located close to shrub planting it may be necessary
to carry out regular tying—in and trimming as if it were a hedge, to make sure the
climbers do not smother nearby shrubs. Other species are Japanese honeysuckle
(Lonicera japonica ‘Halliana’) that, being evergreen, gives winter cover, Clematis
montana and cultivars and the deciduous honeysuckles (especially Lonicera
periclymenum and cultivars).These are less vigorous and so should be planted at
1—1.5 metres apart to achieve rapid cover.
Ornamental Planting in Specialized Habitats
We have discussed design and plant selection for various visual characters,
microclimate and soil conditions. Ornamental planting can also be very effective
in specialized habitats like ponds, boggy ground, gravel and boulder screes,
rockeries and drystone walls. Here we need plants that are adapted to the
Plate 195 Alyssum
and aubrietia have
colonized and are being
maintained over large
areas of this stone
retaining wall at
Haddon Hall,
Derbyshire, UK. They
combine well with
climbers and other
planted species.
278 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
particular environmental conditions. In addition, the design objectives can be
different. For example, complete groundcover is not needed in a scree garden or
a pool because the stone and, of course, the water are part of the composition.
For discussion of design and species the reader is referred to the gardening and
landscape literature on specialist gardening. Recommended as an introduction
are Gertrude ]ekyll’s classic I/%ll and I/%ter Gardens, introduced and revised by
Graham Stuart Thomas (1983), and Allan Hart’s chapter Water Plants in
Landscape Design with Plants (1977). Although choice of species and growing
techniques will be different for a pool margin than a shrub border, the principles
and the process of design is the same.The guidance offered in this chapter would
be a basis for ornamental design in all locations, but under more specialized
growing conditions, horticultural expertise becomes increasingly important if we
are to achieve a similar level of aesthetic success with the planting.
CHAPTER 12
Conclusion
With the help of planting design we can create a landscape which is both
rewarding and inspiring to live in. It gives us the opportunity to enrich people’s
lives and to create special places of beauty. To achieve this is no mean feat, and
this book’s premise is that success depends on using the form of plants to give
meaningful structure to space, and using their visual and other aesthetic qualities
to enrich those spaces.
Planting could be regarded as living sculpture or living art. If it is an art, then
it is a cultural and individual response to the natural world. Like other arts and
crafts, planting design communicates meaning. To any person who stops to
notice, it will say something about the ideas and the intentions of the creator. It
is hoped that this book has helped to establish a language of planting design
which will enable the designer to speak more purposefully and more eloquently.
Of course, we do not always intend to express personal or cultural themes
directly, and sometimes we let natural processes speak for themselves. This is
possible even within some of the most intensely humanized environments, but
because of the extent of human pressure and urbanization on much of the
world’s habitable landscape, a conscious decision is often needed to make space
for the spontaneous processes of nature. As planting designers we are in a
position to assert the benefits of this laissez faire.
The technical and scientific aspects of planting have not been the focus of this
book, but we should remember the importance of horticulture for the success of
landscape design and the power of the natural sciences to argue the case for
environmental responsibility and positive ecological action. Ecologists have
shown the complexity of vegetation systems and inspired enthusiasm for habitat
creation and nature—like planting — both for biodiversity and visual beauty.
Planting design gives a way to unite the scientific understanding of the ecologist,
the technical skill of the horticulturalist and the emotional and spiritual vision of
the artist.accent planting 113—1 7
aesthetic considerations in design 26—7
aftercare of plants 13—16, 196
Aftercare Works 1 96
Appleton, Jay 44
arching plants 91—2
architectural planting 124—5
architectural role of trees 42
Arnold, Henry 18
Ashihara,Yoshinobu 73
avenues 247—52
Bacon, Edmund 43, 65—6
Baines, Chris 207
beating up 196
boundaries 60—62, 78—9
bulbs 152
bunch form plants 90
bunch grasslands 148—9
bush 202
canopy layers, designing with 134—5
canopy structures 135—6
deciduous cool temperate communities
single-layer 142—5
two—layer 14042
three—layer 136—40
design interpretation 148
evergreen temperate communities
145—8
carpeting plants 28—30, 87—8
children’s play areas 4
Ching, Francis 66, 79—80, 118
clients, initial contact 160—61
client’s brief 161
climbers 276—7
clumps 235
colour of plants 122—4
effects 108—9
hue 105
perception 107—8
saturation 107
value 106
columnar plants 94—5
complexity principle in planted
assemblages 134
composition studies 184
conical plants 94
container planting 272—4
contracts for landscape management 197
coppicing 213
copses 235
corms 153
de Sausmarez, Maurice 51
deciduous cool temperate communities
13645
Defects Liability Period (DLP) 196
design see planting design
design concept 168
design project process
inception 160—61
understanding 162—8
synthesis 168—93
realization 193—8
learning through 198
detailed planting design 180—86
Dewey, John 85
DLP (Defects Liability Period) 196
dome form plants 89—90
dynamics of space 49—58
ecological approach 8
ecological ornamental planting 266—7
ecotone 230
enclosure 45—6
degree of 46—8
permeability of 48—9
establishment phase 196—7
evergreen temperate communities 145—8
fastigiate plants 94—5
focus of spaces
asymmetric 60
on the boundary 60—62
external 62
symmetric 58—60
forest belts 236—7
forest structures 131—3
forestry practice 6
forests 201—2 see also woodlands
design 203—5
edges 229—34
high
establishment 206—8
layer components 208—9
nurse crops 208—9
planting mix 210—1 5
spacing and setting out 215—22
low 222—6
outlying groups 234—5
form of plants 124
arching 91—2
ascending 90—91
bunch 90
carpeting 87—8
columnar 94—5
conical 94
dome 89—90
erect 90—91
fastigiate 94—5
hummock 89, 90
level spreading 96
open irregular 96—7
oval upright 93
palm 92
prostrate 87
sculptural 92—3
tabulate 96
trained 97—8
tussock 90
functional considerations in design 26—7
Gardenesque style 268
Goldfinger, Erno 43
grasses, competitiveness 149—50
Greenbie, Barrie 46, 58, 78
grey scrub 227
groundcover principle, planted
assemblages 133—4
ground level planting 28—30
groundcover 30—33
growth requirements 150
habitat themes 126—8
Hansen, Richard 267
hedgerows 237—8, 241—2
hedges 237—8
garden 242—6
Index 285
perimeter 246—7
rural 238—41
trees in 246
urban 242—6
herbaceous plants 30—33, 150
high scrub 229
Higuchi,Tadahiko 45—6, 51
Hobhouse, Penelope 107
horticultural approach 125
hummock form plants 89, 90
informal planting 18
Jakobsen, Preben 28, 263—4
Jekyll, Gertrude 123
Jensen, Jens 18
Lancaster, Michael 105
landscape appreciation 65—6
landscape assessment 165—7
landscape design 45
landscape management 12—16, 197—8
Laseau, Paul 198
layer analysis 162—5
level spreading plants 96
life cycles of plants 153—4
line 124
ascending 99
descending 100
diagonal 101
horizontal 101
pendulous 100
quality of 101—2
longevity of plants 1534
Loudon, John Claudius 268
low edges 234
low planting 30—33
Lynch, Kevin 58
Maintenance Works 196
masterplans 170
meadows, ornamental 149
medium height planting 33
naked drawing 188
natural vegetation, management 6
open irregular plants 96—7
ornamental meadows 149
ornamental planting
accent groups 263—4
accents 261, 263
canopy layers 257—60
composition 260—61
container planting 272—4
ecological 266—7
pergolas 276—7
plant spacing 267—70
286 The Planting Design Handbook (2nd edition)
planting areas 254—7
planting arrangements 257
planting patterns 264—6
raised planting 272—4
scale 261
setting out 271—2
in specialized habitats 277—8
successional growth 260
trellises 276—7
walls 274—6
ornamental plants 19—21
oval upright plants 93
palm form plants 92
Papanek, Victor 26—7
pergolas 276—7
plant associations, horticultural factors
148—5O
plant communities 10, 131
plant palette 181
plant signature 128
planting 193—6
aftercare 196
planting design
aesthetic considerations 26—7
aesthetic pleasure 8
detailed 180—86
ecological approach 8
function 4—6
functional considerations 26—7
inspiration for 129—30
process 159—60 (see also design project
process)
purpose 3
schematic 170
success criteria 8—9
planting plans 186, 188—92
planting policies 168
planting proposals
detailed 186—92
sketch 170, 174—80
plants see also form of plants; shrubs; trees
above eye level 33—6
aftercare 13—16, 196
architectural function 19
below knee height 30—33
colour 105—9, 122—4
competitiveness 149—51
environmental factors 11—12
ground level 28—30
growth cycles 12
growth requirements 150
habits 152—3
herbaceous 30—33, 150
increase by seed 150—51
knee to eye level 33
life cycles 1534
line 124
line and pattern 98—102
longevity 153—4
low 30—33
medium height 33
ornamental 19—21
responses to 84—6
scent 125
selection 21—6
sound 125
as spatial elements 16—19
spatial functions 28
texture 103—5, 124
touch 125
vegetative increase 151—52
visual energy 109
pleaching 252—3
prospect-refuge theory 44
prostrate plants 87
raised planting 2724
Repton, Humphrey 42
rhizomes 152
Robinson, Florence 86—7
Robinson, William 266—7
rootstocks 152—3
runners 152
scent 125
schematic planting design 170
scrub
grey 227
high 229
outlying groups 234—5
thicket 226—8
woodland 229
sculptural plants 92—3
seasonal tables 185—6
seasonal themes 124—5
selection of plants 21—6
shelter planting 8—9
shrub thickets 226—8
shrubs 30—33 see also form of plants;
plants
arching 91—2
ascending 90—91
erect 90—91
habits 152
tall 33—6
vigorous 150
Simonds, John Ormsbee 44
slopes 56—8
sound qualities of plants 125
space
enclosure 45—9
experience of 434
focus 58—64
hierarchy 73—8
shape 51
sloping ground 56
transitions 78—83
use of 44—5
vertical proportion 56
spatial composition 45
spatial definition 16—1 9
spatial functions of plants 28
spatial organizations
clustered 67
contained 70—71
linear 67
specifications in planting contracts 193
standard conditions of engagement 161
stolons 151—2
succulents 92—3
suckers 152
surveys 162—5
symbolism of plants 84—5
tabulate plants 96
tall edges 233
tall planting 33—6
Tanguy, Frederique and Mare 84
taxonomic themes 126
texture of plants 103—5, 124
thicket scrub 226—8
topiary 97
touch qualities of plants 125
trained plants 97—8
transitions between spaces 78—83
trees 36—42 see also form of plants;
plants
arching 91—2
avenues 247—52
habits 152
in hedges 246
small 33—6
trained 252—3
in urban design 18
trellises 276—7
tussock form plants 90
tussock grasslands 148—9
Index 287
urban design 43, 45
vegetative increase
bulbs 1 5 3
corms 153
rhizomes 1 5 2
rootstocks 152—3
runners 152
stolons 151—2
suckers 152
vines 252—3
visual composition
accent 113—1 7
balance 1 13
contrast 110—1 3
diversity 125—8
emphasis 113—1 7
harmony 110—1 3
movement 1 19—21
scale 1 18—1 9
sequence 1 17
unity 1 21—8
viewing angles 1 19—21
visual disability, planting for 125
visual energy 109
walls 276—7
wild gardening 267
woodland belts 236—7
woodland scrub 229
woodlands 201—2 see also forests
design 203—5
edges 229—34
high canopy
establishment 206—8
layer components 208—9
nurse crops 209—10
planting mix 210—15
spacing and setting out 215—22
low canopy 222—6
outlying groups 234—5
working drawings 186—8, 189—92
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